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I had the same situation last year with W2s from Texas and California. One thing nobody mentioned yet - check if you need to file as a part-year resident in either state if you actually moved during the tax year. If you just worked in both places but maintained your primary residence in one state, then you're typically a full-year resident of your home state and a non-resident of the other. Don't forget to check if there's a reciprocal agreement between NC and NY (though I don't think there is). Some neighboring states have agreements where you only pay tax to your resident state.
Thanks for bringing this up! I didn't actually move - I was just commuting to NY for a big project for several months while maintaining my home in NC. Does that change anything about how I should approach this?
That definitely simplifies things! Since you maintained your primary residence in NC, you'd file as a full-year NC resident and as a non-resident of NY. Your NC return will include ALL your income (both NC and NY earnings), but you'll get a credit for taxes paid to NY. This prevents double taxation. Your NY non-resident return will only include the income you earned while working in NY. Just make sure you keep good records of exactly which days you worked in NY versus NC - some states are getting more particular about this, especially with remote work becoming more common.
Just a heads up that NY has some of the most aggressive non-resident income tax policies in the country! If you physically worked in NY, they will definitely want their cut. Make sure you're tracking exactly which days you worked in which state. NY has the notorious "convenience of employer" rule where they might try to tax income you earned while physically in NC if it was for a NY-based company and you were working remotely "for convenience" rather than necessity.
This! NY's convenience rule screwed me last year. I lived in CT but worked remotely most days for a NY company. NY still taxed all my income even days I never set foot in the state. Definitely check this rule.
I've been in construction for 15 years and have seen companies handle this all different ways. Here's what I've learned - if your company ONLY pays for gas but nothing else (wear and tear, oil changes, tires, etc.), you're getting a raw deal. 7,500 miles of job site driving will absolutely destroy your truck over time. That's brakes, suspension work, depreciation, etc. Gas is honestly the smaller expense compared to everything else.
I went through this exact situation last year as a W-2 employee. Unfortunately, as others have mentioned, you can't deduct mileage expenses on your personal return when you're getting the gas card - the Tax Cuts and Jobs Act really screwed over employees with unreimbursed business expenses. But here's what I'd strongly recommend: Start documenting EVERYTHING beyond just mileage. Track your maintenance costs, tire replacements, oil changes, brake work - all the stuff your gas card doesn't cover. At 7,500 miles of job site driving, you're looking at serious wear and tear costs. Then take all that documentation to your employer and make a business case for switching to standard mileage reimbursement. Show them that at 65.5 cents per mile, your 7,500 miles would cost them about $4,912 - but they might actually save money on administrative costs from not managing gas cards. Plus it's better for employee retention when people aren't subsidizing the company's business with their personal vehicle expenses. If they won't budge, honestly consider looking for another construction management job that either provides a company vehicle or proper mileage reimbursement. Your truck shouldn't be a business expense you have to eat.
This is really solid advice! I'm new to this community but dealing with a similar situation. The documentation approach makes a lot of sense - I never thought about tracking all the non-gas expenses to make a case to my employer. One question though - when you say "administrative costs from not managing gas cards," what specific costs are you referring to? I'm trying to build the strongest possible case for my boss and want to make sure I understand all the angles before I approach them about switching to mileage reimbursement.
This is a great discussion that really highlights how complex trust taxation can be! As someone who's dealt with similar confusion, I want to add one more important consideration that might help others reading this thread. Even if you could somehow modify your trust to qualify as a simple trust, you need to think carefully about whether that's actually beneficial in the long run. While the tax rate compression issue is real (trusts hitting 37% at just $14,500 vs $578,000+ for individuals), there are other factors to consider. Simple trust status means ALL income must be distributed and taxed to beneficiaries every year, regardless of whether they need the money or whether it's the optimal time tax-wise. With a complex trust, the trustee has flexibility to distribute income in years when beneficiaries are in lower tax brackets, or retain income in years when beneficiaries have unusually high income from other sources. Also, once income is distributed from a simple trust, it's gone from the trust permanently. Complex trusts allow for more sophisticated tax planning strategies, like timing distributions to offset capital losses or spreading income across multiple beneficiaries. The "election" you were hoping for doesn't exist precisely because Congress wanted to prevent tax gaming - but the flexibility of complex trusts often provides better overall tax outcomes when managed properly.
This is such a helpful perspective! I hadn't really thought about the long-term implications of being locked into distributing all income every year. Now that I understand our trust is definitely complex (due to the trustee discretion language), I'm actually starting to see why that might be advantageous. My income varies quite a bit year to year due to freelance work, so having flexibility around when distributions happen could actually save us money overall. In high-income years, it might make sense to keep income in the trust, and in lower-income years, distribute more to take advantage of my lower brackets. I guess the real lesson here is that the trust was probably structured the way it was for good tax planning reasons, not just to make things complicated. Thanks for helping me see the bigger picture beyond just the immediate rate differences!
This thread has been incredibly educational! I'm also a trust beneficiary and had similar misconceptions about being able to "elect" simple trust status. One thing I'd add from my experience: even though complex trusts face those compressed tax brackets, there's another consideration that hasn't been mentioned - the Net Investment Income Tax (NIIT). Trusts are subject to the 3.8% NIIT on undistributed net investment income when their adjusted gross income exceeds just $14,450 (for 2025). This threshold is much lower than the $200,000/$250,000 thresholds that apply to individuals. This creates yet another incentive for trustees to distribute investment income to beneficiaries who might not be subject to NIIT at all, or who have higher thresholds before it kicks in. So even beyond the regular income tax rate compression, there's this additional layer of tax that makes retaining income in trusts expensive. It's really fascinating how all these rules work together to encourage income distributions while still preserving the flexibility that complex trusts offer for strategic tax planning. The system seems designed to prevent the exact kind of "tax arbitrage" that the original poster was hoping to achieve!
For what it's worth, I had to deal with this exact situation with the 2022 tax year (filed in 2023). Sold some Taylor Swift tickets for way more than I paid (didn't realize they'd be so valuable when I bought them!!) and got a 1099-K from StubHub. The way it worked in TurboTax was: 1. Entered the 1099-K amount as reported 2. In the "related expenses" section, I put what I originally paid for the tickets 3. When asked if this was a "business," I selected "no" since it was a one-time thing I didn't have to mess with Schedule C at all, it was just reported as miscellaneous income on Schedule 1. The difference between what I got and what I paid was taxed as ordinary income.
Thanks for sharing your experience! This is really helpful. Did you have to provide any documentation about your original purchase price for the tickets? I'm worried because I don't have receipts for all of them.
You don't need to submit any documentation with your tax return, but you should definitely keep records in case you get audited. I saved PDF copies of my original ticket purchases and the StubHub sales confirmations. If you don't have receipts for all of them, try to find bank or credit card statements showing the purchases. Even emails confirming the purchases can help establish what you paid. The IRS mainly wants to see that you're making a good faith effort to report accurately. In my case, I had everything documented, but I've heard that reasonable estimates are acceptable if you can't find exact records - just be prepared to explain your calculation method if asked.
I went through this exact same situation last year with StubHub and multiple other platforms! The confusion around 1099-K reporting for ticket sales is really common because different platforms handle it differently. Here's what I learned from my research and experience: First, verify what StubHub actually reported by checking if the $12,000 matches what was deposited to your bank account or if it's higher. If it matches your deposit, they've already deducted their fees and you shouldn't deduct them again. For entering this in tax software, both TurboTax and H&R Block will walk you through it under "Other Income" or "Less Common Income" sections. You'll enter the 1099-K amount exactly as shown, then add your related expenses (original ticket cost) to offset the income. The key is keeping good records - save your original purchase confirmations, the 1099-K, and any StubHub transaction summaries. This will help you determine exactly what was deducted and what you can claim as expenses. Since this was a one-time sale, you're correct that this should be treated as miscellaneous/hobby income rather than business income, which keeps things simpler and avoids self-employment tax complications.
This is really helpful! I'm dealing with a similar situation but with multiple platforms - I sold tickets on both StubHub and Vivid Seats and got 1099-Ks from both. Do you know if the reporting differences between platforms matter when I'm entering everything in TurboTax? I'm worried about double-counting or missing deductions since each platform seems to handle fees differently. Also, do I need to report each 1099-K separately or can I combine them under one "other income" entry?
Chloe Robinson
For married filing separately (MFS) folks looking at backdoor Roth, remember this isn't just about income limits. The contribution deductibility for traditional IRAs is also affected by your MFS status and whether you're covered by a retirement plan at work. If you're MFS and covered by a workplace retirement plan, the income limit for deducting traditional IRA contributions is VERY low (under $10,000 for 2022). This is why many MFS filers end up with non-deductible traditional contributions anyway, making backdoor Roth often a good strategy regardless.
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Diego Chavez
โขDo you know if the backdoor Roth strategy works the same way for someone who's married filing separately but lives apart from their spouse the entire tax year? I've heard the tax rules are different in that situation.
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Melissa Lin
Great question about backdoor Roth with MFS! I went through this exact process last year and want to share a few key points that helped me: First, you're correct that this is a conversion, not a recharacterization. The process is: make non-deductible traditional IRA contribution โ convert to Roth IRA. You'll owe taxes only on any earnings that occur between contribution and conversion (usually minimal if done quickly). For MFS filers, the backdoor Roth is often the ONLY way to get money into a Roth since the income limits are so low. Make sure you understand that even though you're MFS, you still use the same Form 8606 to report the non-deductible contribution and conversion. One thing that tripped me up initially: if you have ANY existing traditional IRA balances (including old 401k rollovers), the pro-rata rule applies to the entire balance across all your traditional IRAs. This can create unexpected taxes on the conversion. The key is proper documentation - keep records of your contribution being non-deductible and file Form 8606 both for the contribution year and conversion year (if different). I'd strongly recommend running through the numbers with a tax professional if you have multiple IRA accounts or complex situations.
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Austin Leonard
โขThank you for breaking this down so clearly! I'm in a similar MFS situation and this helps a lot. Quick follow-up question - you mentioned keeping records of the non-deductible contribution. What specific documentation should I be maintaining? Just the contribution confirmation from my broker, or are there other records the IRS might want to see if they ever audit this? Also, when you say "run through the numbers with a tax professional," are there any specific scenarios where this becomes absolutely necessary versus just helpful? I'm trying to figure out if my situation is complex enough to warrant professional help.
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