Hey Connor! I just went through this exact process about 3 weeks ago as a recent grad, so I totally get the stress you're feeling. Here's what helped me navigate it smoothly: **The verification is super common for people like us** - the IRS algorithm flags returns with education credits, multiple income sources (like TA work, research stipends, etc.), or major changes from previous years. It's fraud protection, not an audit. **My step-by-step experience:** - Online notification showed up first when I tried accessing my tax transcript - Physical Letter 5071C arrived 9 days later (but don't wait for it!) - Completed entire ID.me verification online in about 35 minutes using my laptop - Got confirmation email immediately from ID.me - Refund deposited exactly 17 days after completing verification **What made it go smoothly:** - Used desktop computer - mobile interface kept crashing on me - Had documents ready: driver's license, Social Security card, recent bank statement - Did the selfie verification near a window with natural light (took 3 tries but worked) - Took screenshots of every confirmation page for my records **For the address issue since you just finished your master's:** I had moved recently too and used my current lease agreement + bank statement to supplement my driver's license which still had my old address. ID.me handled it without problems. The whole process feels invasive but it's legitimate, and honestly once you're through it, there's a sense of relief. Since you mentioned your tax situation got more complex, this verification actually helps ensure your return processes without future issues. You've got this! Just budget about 45 minutes and make sure you have good internet and lighting. Happy to answer any specific questions about the process!

Hey Connor! I just completed the ID.me verification process last week and wanted to share my experience since I was in almost the exact same situation - recent grad with education credits and multiple income sources from research assistantships. **Quick reassurance first:** This is incredibly common for people in our situation. The IRS flags returns with education credits, multiple income sources, or significant changes from previous years as a routine fraud prevention measure. You're not being audited or in trouble! **My timeline:** - Online notification appeared when I tried to access my tax transcript - Physical letter (5071C) arrived 12 days later - Completed verification online in 42 minutes using laptop - Refund processed 15 days after verification completion **Key things that helped:** - Started immediately when I saw the online notification (don't wait for the physical letter) - Used my laptop instead of phone - mobile interface is really unreliable - Had all documents ready: driver's license, Social Security card, recent utility bill - Did the selfie verification during daytime near a window - lighting is crucial - Took screenshots of every confirmation page **For your complex tax situation:** Since you mentioned this is your first time with a more complex return, keep all verification documentation. The IRS tends to be more cautious with returns that show significant changes from previous years, which is super common for new graduates. The facial recognition part took me 4 attempts (remove glasses if you wear them), but once that was done, everything processed smoothly. The whole thing feels intimidating at first but it's actually pretty straightforward once you start. Let me know if you have any specific questions about the process - happy to help a fellow recent grad navigate this!

Great discussion here! I'm dealing with a similar situation from a strike I participated in last fall. One thing I want to add for anyone else reading this - make sure to keep good records of exactly when you received your strike pay versus your regular wages. In my case, the strike crossed over from December into January, so some of my strike pay will be reported on this year's taxes even though the strike started last year. The 1099-MISC shows the total amount paid in the tax year, not when the strike actually occurred. Also, if you received any strike benefits in addition to strike pay (like help with utilities or groceries from the union), those might be handled differently for tax purposes. My union provided some emergency assistance during the strike, and I'm still trying to figure out if that needs to be reported as income too. The advice about setting aside 15-25% for taxes is spot on - I learned that the hard way when I got hit with a bigger tax bill than expected!

This is such a helpful thread! I'm a tax preparer and wanted to add a few clarifications for anyone else dealing with strike pay: 1. **Quarterly estimated taxes**: If you expect to receive strike pay again or have other income without withholding, consider making quarterly estimated tax payments to avoid underpayment penalties next year. 2. **State variations**: Each state handles strike pay differently. Some states don't tax it at all, while others treat it the same as federal (regular income tax but no employment taxes). Check your state's specific rules. 3. **Documentation**: Keep all your strike-related paperwork together - the 1099-MISC, any correspondence from your union, and records of when you were on strike versus working. This helps if the IRS has questions later. 4. **Multiple unions**: If you received strike pay from multiple unions or participated in strikes with different locals, you might receive multiple 1099-MISC forms. Each one gets reported separately, but they all go in the same "Other Income" category. The advice given here about Schedule 1, Line 8z is absolutely correct. Just remember that "Other Income" is still fully taxable at your regular income tax rates - it's just not subject to Social Security and Medicare taxes like regular wages would be.

Just wanted to add that you should also consider doing a "paycheck checkup" using the IRS withholding calculator on their website (irs.gov/W4App) once you update your status with HR. It's free and will help you determine if you need to make any additional adjustments to your withholding for the rest of the year. Since you got married in October 2023, you'll likely want to file as married for your 2023 taxes (you can choose married filing jointly or married filing separately - joint is usually better but not always). The calculator will help you figure out if you're on track for 2024 withholding too. Also, don't forget that marriage can affect other things like your FSA/HSA contribution limits if you both have accounts, and whether you're eligible for certain employer benefits. It's worth reviewing all of that while you're updating your HR records!

I work as a tax preparer and see this situation constantly - you're definitely not the first person to forget updating HR after getting married! The good news is that this usually works out in your favor financially. Since you've been withholding at the "single" rate all year, you've likely been overpaying taxes with each paycheck. When you file your 2023 return as married (which you should, since you were married as of December 31st), you'll probably get a nice refund. However, I'd strongly recommend updating your W-4 with HR immediately for 2024. If both you and your spouse work, make sure to check the "Two Jobs" box or fill out the multiple jobs worksheet to avoid underpaying next year. The marriage penalty/bonus really depends on your combined income levels and how similar your individual incomes are. One tip: if you're concerned about owing for 2024, you can also request additional withholding on your new W-4 to make up for any shortfall from the months you've already worked this year. The IRS withholding calculator mentioned by others is spot-on for figuring out exactly what you need to do.

Has anyone mentioned Form 4797? You'll need to fill this out when reporting the sale. Part of your gain might be subject to depreciation recapture at ordinary income tax rates, while another portion might qualify for capital gains treatment. TurboTax should walk you through this, but it needs those basis figures first.

I went through this exact same situation last year with my contractor van! The key thing to remember is that you need to look at ALL your past tax returns to add up the total depreciation you've claimed over the years. For your "Basis for gain/loss" - take your original $15,000 cost and subtract every penny of depreciation you've claimed on that van since you bought it. If you claimed $10,000 total in depreciation over those 6-7 years, your basis would be $5,000. For the "AMT Basis" - this is trickier because AMT uses different depreciation schedules (usually slower depreciation), so your AMT basis will likely be higher than your regular basis. One tip: since you used it 95% for business, make sure you're only entering the business portion when TurboTax asks. The personal use portion (5%) gets handled separately. Don't stress too much about audit flags - as long as you're reporting the sale and have reasonable documentation of your depreciation over the years, you should be fine. The IRS expects business vehicles to be sold eventually!

I verified my Michigan state return on March 5th and received my refund on March 20th - so 15 days exactly. I did the online verification through michigan.gov/mytaxes where they asked questions about my previous addresses and some account information. The process was pretty straightforward and took about 10 minutes. What I found helpful was checking the status every few days rather than obsessing over it daily. The website updates are pretty reliable, and once it switched to "refund issued" the money was in my account within 1-2 business days. Based on what I'm seeing here, it looks like most people are getting their refunds within 2-3 weeks after verification, which is consistent with what Michigan Treasury advertises. I'd plan for 3 weeks to be safe, but you'll likely see it sooner.

I verified my Michigan state return on February 28th and received my refund on March 17th - so about 17 days total. I went through the online verification process at michigan.gov/mytaxes where they asked me questions about previous addresses and some financial account details. The verification itself was quick, maybe 8-10 minutes, but then came the waiting period. I found it helpful to check the status about twice a week rather than daily - saved me from getting too anxious about it. The website is pretty good about updating status, and once it showed "refund issued" the direct deposit hit my account the next business day. From what I'm seeing in this thread, most people are getting their refunds within the 2-4 week window that Michigan Treasury promises, which is reassuring. I'd definitely budget for the full 3-4 weeks just to be safe, especially since we're now in the busy part of tax season and processing times might be a bit longer.