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Great question! I was in a similar situation a few years ago. Here's how I think about it: If you're already at 15% for your 401k and getting your full employer match, the decision really comes down to your personal financial goals and cash flow needs. **Go with higher 401k contributions if:** - You're behind on retirement savings for your age - You have stable income and don't need the extra cash flow - You're close to a tax bracket threshold (as mentioned above) - You want to maximize long-term wealth building **Go with higher withholding if:** - You're on track for retirement but just want to avoid owing taxes - You might need more flexibility with your money during the year - You have other financial priorities (emergency fund, debt payoff, etc.) - You prefer having more control over your cash flow One middle-ground approach: increase your 401k by just 2-3% and adjust your withholding slightly. This way you get some additional tax reduction benefits from the 401k while not tying up too much extra cash. The most important thing is that you're being proactive about this instead of getting surprised again next April!

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This is really helpful advice! I like the middle-ground approach you suggested. As someone new to thinking about this stuff, I'm wondering - is there a rule of thumb for how much you should be contributing to retirement by different ages? Like, you mentioned being "behind on retirement savings for your age" - how would someone know if they're behind or on track? I'm in my late 20s and just started really focusing on my finances, so I'm trying to figure out if 15% is actually good or if I should be doing more regardless of the tax situation.

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Philip Cowan

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Great question! There are some general guidelines that can help you figure out if you're on track. A common rule of thumb is to have 1x your annual salary saved by age 30, 3x by 40, 6x by 50, and 8x by 60. But these are just rough targets. At 15% contribution rate in your late 20s, you're actually doing really well! Most financial advisors recommend saving 10-15% of your income for retirement, and you're already at the higher end of that range. The fact that you're starting to focus on this in your late 20s puts you ahead of many people. If you're getting an employer match, make sure you're at least contributing enough to get the full match - that's free money. Beyond that, 15% is solid. You could consider increasing it gradually over time as your income grows (like bumping it up 1% each year), but you're definitely not "behind" at your current rate. The key is consistency and starting early, which you're already doing. Don't feel pressure to max out everything immediately - building good habits and maintaining a sustainable contribution rate is more important than trying to do too much too fast.

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Another factor to consider is your current tax situation versus your expected tax situation in retirement. If you think you'll be in a lower tax bracket when you retire (which is common), then maximizing traditional 401k contributions now makes a lot of sense - you're getting a tax deduction at your current higher rate and will pay taxes later at a lower rate. However, if you expect to be in the same or higher tax bracket in retirement, or if tax rates in general go up by then, the immediate tax savings from higher 401k contributions might not be as beneficial long-term. Given that you're already at 15% which is really solid, and you owed taxes this year, I'd lean toward a hybrid approach: bump your 401k up to maybe 17-18% and also increase your withholding slightly. This gives you some additional tax reduction benefits while also ensuring you don't owe next year. The IRS penalty for underpaying can be pretty steep if you owe more than $1,000, so making sure you're covered on the withholding front is important regardless of what you do with your 401k.

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Nathan Kim

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This is a really good point about thinking ahead to retirement tax brackets. I'm just starting to learn about all this tax planning stuff, and I hadn't really considered what my tax situation might look like decades from now. How do you even estimate what tax bracket you'll be in during retirement? It seems like there are so many variables - will I have the same income needs, will tax rates change, will Social Security still be around, etc. Is there a simple way to think about this, or do you just have to make your best guess? Also, you mentioned the IRS penalty for underpaying - is that something that kicks in automatically if you owe more than $1,000, or are there other factors that determine whether you get penalized?

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One important thing to watch for with multiple W2s - Social Security tax. Each employer withholds 6.2% of your wages for Social Security up to the annual wage limit ($147,000 for 2022). If your combined income from both jobs exceeded that limit, you may have overpaid Social Security tax that you can get back when filing.

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Is this something tax software automatically catches? I made about $160k combined between my two jobs last year but I'm not sure if I got this credit.

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Most major tax software (TurboTax, H&R Block, etc.) should catch this automatically when you enter multiple W2s. The software will calculate if you exceeded the Social Security wage base and add the excess as a credit on your return. If you're doing your taxes by hand, you'll need to calculate this yourself on your Form 1040. This is definitely one of those situations where software is worth it, since it's an easy thing to miss if you're doing it manually.

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Nia Williams

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Just wantd to mention, when I had 2 w2s I just added the box 1 income from both, added the fed witholding together, and the state witholding together. Enter those on your 1040 and ur good to go! No need to complicate it imo.

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Luca Ricci

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This is incorrect advice! You cannot just add the totals from Box 1 and enter as a single amount. You need to enter each W2 separately in your tax return. There are multiple boxes on the W2 beyond just income and withholding that need to be reported individually.

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What to do with expenses on vacant Rental Property that hasn't sold in 4 months - tax treatment question

I've been searching everywhere for an answer to this and can't find anything clear. Hoping someone here can help! I have a rental property that I've owned since 2019 as an investment property. I decided to sell it and listed it in July, but the market has been super slow and it's been sitting vacant for about 4 months now. No takers yet. For the first 8 months of 2025, I collected rent as usual. After depreciation, the property was actually showing a loss (as it has every year since I bought it). I've been carrying over passive losses each year and they'll probably offset most of the depreciation recapture when I finally sell, hopefully by spring 2026. Meanwhile, I'm still paying all the usual expenses - property tax, insurance, utilities, HOA fees, sewer, trash collection, etc. My question is: When does the "business" of this rental property officially end for tax purposes? When I list it for sale or when it actually sells? Option 1: Keep treating it as a rental on Schedule E, continuing to depreciate and deduct expenses until it sells, even though there's no rental income coming in for these months. Then deal with depreciation recapture and capital gains when it sells. Option 2: Consider the rental business "ended" in 2025 when I listed it, and treat the last few months of expenses as part of my selling costs or basis in the property. I'm leaning toward Option 1 since it seems cleaner, but then I'd have a 2026 Schedule E with expenses but zero rental income, which seems odd. Any thoughts?

Ayla Kumar

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Don't overthink this. The property is still a rental until you sell it. Expenses still go on Sch E. If you get audited, the IRS isnt gonna care that it was vacant while u were trying to sell it. Happens all the time.

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Not sure this is universal advice. My cousin got audited specifically because he had a schedule E with only expenses and no income for almost a year. Ended up being ok because he could prove he was trying to rent it, but the IRS definitely does look at properties with expenses and no income.

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Ryan Vasquez

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I went through this exact situation two years ago with a duplex that sat vacant for 5 months while trying to sell. What really helped me was creating a clear paper trail showing my intent to sell rather than abandon the property. I kept copies of all MLS listings, price reduction notices, showing feedback, and even rejection letters from potential buyers. When I filed my Schedule E with expenses but no rental income for those months, I included a brief statement explaining the vacancy was due to active marketing for sale. The IRS never questioned it, but having that documentation gave me peace of mind. Also, make sure you're only deducting expenses that you would have paid anyway as a rental property owner - don't try to deduct any costs specifically related to marketing the property for sale, as those should be treated as selling expenses when you calculate capital gains. One tip: if you're doing any repairs or improvements to help with the sale, be careful how you categorize those. Minor repairs to maintain the property can still go on Schedule E, but major improvements to increase sale value should be added to your basis.

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Ravi Malhotra

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This is really helpful advice about documentation! I'm curious though - when you say "minor repairs to maintain the property can still go on Schedule E" versus "major improvements to increase sale value should be added to your basis" - where do you draw that line? For example, if I replace old carpet with new carpet to help with showings, is that maintenance or an improvement? What about repainting rooms that were already painted but looked worn?

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One thing to consider that hasn't been mentioned yet - if you do decide to get married, make sure to update your W-4 withholdings at work! Many couples forget this step and end up owing money at tax time or getting a huge refund (which means you gave the government an interest-free loan all year). With your combined income of $120,000 and a baby on the way, your tax situation will be quite different than when you were both single. The IRS has a good withholding calculator on their website, or you can use the new W-4 form which has been redesigned to be more accurate for married couples. Also, don't forget about Dependent Care FSA if either of your employers offers it - you can set aside up to $5,000 pre-tax for daycare expenses once the baby arrives. This is separate from the child care tax credit and can provide additional savings!

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Aria Khan

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This is such an important point that gets overlooked! I made this mistake when I got married mid-year and ended up owing like $1,800 at tax time because we were both still withholding as single people. The IRS withholding calculator is definitely helpful, but just be aware it can be a bit confusing to navigate if you're not used to tax terminology. Also, quick tip - if you do update your W-4s, try to do it at the same time so you don't end up with one person over-withholding and the other under-withholding. Makes the math easier to track!

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Keisha Williams

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Great advice from everyone so far! As someone who works in tax prep, I'd add one more consideration that often gets overlooked - timing your wedding date strategically within December if you do decide to get married this year. Since your tax filing status is determined by December 31st, you could literally get married on December 31st and still file as married for the entire 2024 tax year. This gives you almost the full year to see how your finances actually play out before making the commitment. Also, with a baby due in May 2025, consider that you'll be eligible for the Child and Dependent Care Credit starting in 2025 if you have childcare expenses. This credit can be worth up to $2,100 for one child (20-35% of up to $8,000 in expenses, depending on your income). Combined with the Child Tax Credit of up to $2,000, having a child provides significant tax benefits. One last tip: if you do get married, make sure both of you understand the "kiddie tax" rules won't apply here since we're talking about your own child, but do keep documentation of all baby-related medical expenses throughout 2025 - some may be deductible if they exceed the threshold for medical expense deductions.

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Hugh Intensity

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As a new single-member LLC owner myself, this discussion has been incredibly valuable! I've been stressing about this exact same issue for weeks. Based on everything shared here, I'm feeling much more confident about my approach. I'm planning to follow the consensus advice: pay from my business account, record as owner draws (not business expenses), and set up that automatic 30% transfer system that several people mentioned. The idea of having a dedicated tax savings account within my business banking sounds like it will eliminate so much of the quarterly payment anxiety I've been having. One thing that really stood out to me was the reminder about self-employment tax being IN ADDITION to regular income tax - I had been calculating wrong and probably would have been short on my payments. The 15.3% SE tax plus whatever income tax bracket you're in really adds up quickly! For other newcomers reading this: the key takeaway seems to be that the IRS doesn't care which account you use, but consistency in your bookkeeping method is crucial. Pick one approach and stick with it. And definitely don't forget to factor in both income tax AND self-employment tax when calculating your quarterly payments. Thanks to everyone who shared their real-world experiences - this is exactly the kind of practical guidance that's hard to find elsewhere!

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Demi Hall

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This whole thread has been such a lifesaver! I'm literally in the exact same boat - just started my single-member LLC a few months ago and have been losing sleep over whether I'm handling the tax payments correctly. The consensus here about paying from the business account and recording as owner draws makes so much sense, and I love how everyone emphasized the importance of including that self-employment tax in calculations. I was definitely underestimating how much I needed to set aside. One small addition for other newcomers: I found it helpful to also set up a separate subfolder in my filing system specifically for quarterly tax payment confirmations and records. Since we're treating these as owner draws rather than business expenses, having clear documentation of when and how much we paid becomes even more important for personal tax filing purposes. The automatic 30% transfer strategy is brilliant - I'm setting that up this week! Thanks everyone for sharing your real experiences instead of just generic advice.

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Kevin Bell

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This has been such a helpful thread for new LLC owners! I'm in my second year of running a single-member LLC and I wish I had found this kind of practical advice when I was starting out. One thing I'd add based on my experience: if you do decide to pay from your business account (which I recommend for the paper trail reasons others mentioned), make sure you're consistent about the timing of recording the owner draw transaction. I learned to record it on the same day I make the payment, not when I initiate the transfer or when it clears. This keeps everything aligned for monthly financial statements. Also, for anyone using QuickBooks - there's actually a specific "Owner's Draw" account type that's separate from regular expense accounts. Using this makes it crystal clear that these payments aren't deductible business expenses, which will save you headaches during tax prep. The 30% automatic transfer strategy really is game-changing. I started doing something similar after my first year and it's eliminated all the stress around quarterly payments. Now I never have to scramble to find the money when deadlines approach!

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Amina Diallo

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This is such great advice about the timing of recording transactions! I'm brand new to this whole LLC thing and haven't even made my first quarterly payment yet, but I can already see how important it's going to be to stay organized from the beginning. Your point about using the specific "Owner's Draw" account type in QuickBooks is really helpful - I was just going to create a generic expense category but now I understand why that would be wrong. It sounds like getting the bookkeeping structure right from day one will save a lot of headaches later. I'm definitely convinced about setting up that automatic 30% transfer system after reading everyone's experiences here. Did you notice any difference in your stress levels around tax time once you started doing the automatic transfers? I'm hoping it will help me sleep better knowing the money is already set aside!

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