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AstroAce

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Totally agree with what others have said - that $7,000 is almost certainly the total federal income tax that was withheld from your paychecks throughout your employment, not something you'll owe. It's actually a good sign that your employer withheld a decent amount! Just to put your mind at ease, when you file your return, this $7,000 (plus any withholding from your current job) will be credited against your total tax liability for the year. If your total tax owed is less than what was withheld, you'll get a refund. If it's more, you'll pay the difference. But that $7,000 represents money you've already paid toward your taxes, not an additional bill. You can double-check by looking at box 2 on your actual W-2 form - that's where federal income tax withheld is officially reported, and it should be close to that $7,000 figure you're seeing.

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This is really helpful! As someone new to all this tax stuff, I was getting pretty confused by all the different terminology. It's reassuring to hear from multiple people that this is likely just showing what was already withheld rather than something I need to worry about owing. I'll definitely check box 2 on my actual W-2 like you suggested to make sure the numbers match up. Thanks for breaking it down in simple terms!

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StarStrider

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Hey James! I can totally understand the panic - tax forms can be so confusing and that terminology doesn't help at all. Based on what everyone else has said and your follow-up about adding up your paystubs, it sounds like you're in the clear! That $7,000 "Total Credit Amount" is almost certainly just the total federal taxes that were already taken out of your paychecks while you worked there. Think of it as money you've already paid toward your 2024 tax bill, not something extra you'll owe. When you file your taxes, that $7,000 (plus whatever was withheld from your new job) will be applied to whatever your total tax liability ends up being for the year. So you're actually ahead of the game having that much already withheld! Just make sure the amount matches what's in box 2 of your official W-2 form, and you should be all set. No need to stress about owing extra in April because of this!

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I just wanted to share my own recent experience to add to this helpful discussion. My car was totaled in a multi-vehicle pileup about 4 months ago, and I received a settlement of $22,000 from the at-fault driver's insurance company. Since I originally paid $25,500 for the car two years ago, I was in the same boat as many of you - wondering about tax implications. After consulting with my CPA and doing some research, I confirmed that since the payout was less than my original purchase price and the vehicle was used 100% for personal use, there was no taxable income to report. The key insight my CPA shared was that this falls under the "return of capital" principle - you're not gaining anything, just recovering part of what you already spent. One practical tip: I requested a detailed valuation report from the insurance company showing how they arrived at the settlement figure. Having that documentation along with my original purchase paperwork gives me solid backup if any questions ever arise. The whole experience reinforced how important it is to keep good records when dealing with these situations. It's been really helpful reading everyone else's experiences here - nice to know we're all in the same boat with these unfortunate but straightforward tax situations!

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Liam Cortez

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Thanks for sharing your experience, Keisha! It's really reassuring to hear from someone who went through the same process recently. I'm curious about that detailed valuation report you mentioned - did the insurance company provide that automatically, or did you have to specifically request it? I'm dealing with a similar situation right now and want to make sure I get all the right documentation. Also, when you say "return of capital" principle, does that apply even if some time has passed since the original purchase? My car was bought about 4 years ago, and I'm wondering if the age of the purchase affects how the IRS views the settlement. Your CPA sounds like they really knew their stuff!

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Liam Mendez

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@Keisha Robinson I had to specifically request the detailed valuation report - it wasn't provided automatically. Most insurance companies will give you this if you ask, but they don't always send it with the initial settlement offer. It's definitely worth requesting because it shows exactly how they calculated the fair market value. Regarding the "return of capital" principle, the age of your original purchase doesn't matter at all. Whether you bought the car 6 months ago or 6 years ago, the IRS still treats it the same way. What matters is comparing the settlement amount to your original cost basis (what you paid for it). As long as the insurance payout doesn't exceed that original purchase price, there's no taxable gain regardless of how much time has passed. The passage of time actually works in your favor tax-wise because cars depreciate, so it's very common for insurance settlements to be less than the original purchase price on older vehicles. Your 4-year timeline is totally normal and shouldn't create any tax complications.

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Ally Tailer

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This is such a helpful thread! I'm currently dealing with a totaled vehicle situation myself and was really stressed about the tax implications. Reading everyone's experiences has been incredibly reassuring. My car was hit by an uninsured driver last month, so I'm going through my own insurance company for the settlement. They're offering $14,800 for a car I bought for $17,200 about 18 months ago. Based on everything discussed here, it sounds like since the payout is less than my original purchase price and it was purely personal use, I shouldn't have any tax liability. I'm definitely going to follow the advice about requesting detailed documentation from my insurance company and keeping everything well-organized. It's amazing how much peace of mind comes from understanding the tax treatment upfront rather than worrying about surprise bills next April! Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences - this community is incredibly helpful for navigating these stressful situations that none of us want to deal with but sometimes have to.

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Has anyone used TurboTax for reporting trader status? Their interface is confusing me when I try to enter these platform fees as business expenses.

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TurboTax isn't great for trader status. You need to create a Schedule C as if trading is your business, but be careful not to include the actual trades there (those still go on Schedule D). Only your expenses like platform fees, education, office, etc go on Schedule C. I switched to a professional preparer because TurboTax kept giving me errors.

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Emma Johnson

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@Sean Matthews is right about TurboTax being tricky for trader status. I had the same issue last year. The key is to NOT put your actual stock trades on Schedule C - those always go on Schedule D or 8949. Only the business expenses like platform fees, data subscriptions, trading education, home office allocation, etc. go on Schedule C. In TurboTax, you ll'need to start a Business "section" and create a sole proprietorship for your trading business. Then under business expenses, you can categorize things like your ThinkorSwim platform fees under Other "Business Expenses or" Software/Subscriptions. "Just" make sure you have good records showing you actually qualify for trader status based on frequency and holding periods. If TurboTax keeps flagging errors, it might be worth the extra cost to use a tax pro who understands trader tax elections. The software isn t'really designed for this more complex scenario.

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Emma Olsen

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Maya, I went through the exact same situation with similar commission amounts last year. Here's what I learned after digging deep into this: 1. **Trading commissions** - These are already baked into your cost basis on your 1099-B forms. When you buy stock for $1000 with a $5 commission, your cost basis is reported as $1005. When you sell for $1200 with another $5 commission, proceeds show as $1195. So those per-trade fees are already handled. 2. **Platform subscription fees** - These are the tricky ones. Your monthly ThinkorSwim fees, data packages, or premium features aren't included in cost basis calculations. Under current tax law (post-2017), these generally can't be deducted as miscellaneous itemized deductions. 3. **The trader status exception** - If you qualify as a "trader" rather than an "investor" in the IRS's eyes, you can deduct platform fees as business expenses on Schedule C. The requirements are strict: frequent trading (think hundreds of trades), short holding periods (days/weeks not months), and substantial time commitment to trading activities. With $25k in total fees, it's definitely worth having a tax professional review your situation. They can help determine if you might qualify for trader status and ensure you're not missing any legitimate deductions while staying compliant with IRS rules.

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Mateo Silva

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This is super helpful Emma! I'm curious about the "substantial time commitment" requirement for trader status. What does the IRS actually consider substantial? I probably spend 3-4 hours a day researching and executing trades, but I also have a full-time job. Does having other employment automatically disqualify you from trader status, or is it more about the actual hours you can document?

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Nia Davis

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I've been dealing with similar concerns about my CK Spend account! From everything I've read here and experienced myself, the app is definitely not reliable for showing closure notifications. What I ended up doing was setting up email filters specifically for Credit Karma messages so nothing gets lost in spam, and I do a small test transfer ($1-2) every couple weeks to make sure the account is still functional. One thing I'd add - if you're really worried, you might want to call their customer service directly to confirm your account status. Yes, the wait times can be brutal, but getting confirmation straight from them might give you the peace of mind you need. Just be prepared to spend some time on hold! Given all the uncertainty with the Intuit acquisition and the account closures people are reporting, I'd honestly recommend moving most of your funds out ASAP and just using CK Spend as a temporary spot for your refund. The stress of wondering "what if" just isn't worth it when there are so many reliable alternatives out there.

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Emma Johnson

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This is really helpful! The email filter idea is genius - I never thought of that but it would definitely prevent important notifications from getting buried. And you're right about calling customer service directly, even if the wait is annoying. At least then I'd know for sure instead of constantly worrying. I think I'm going to follow everyone's advice here and start moving my money out this week. The peace of mind is definitely worth more than any potential convenience of keeping it all in CK Spend. Thanks for sharing your approach - it's given me a good game plan to follow!

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Miguel Ortiz

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I've been through this exact same worry! The app definitely doesn't give you clear notification if your account gets closed. When mine was restricted (not fully closed, but similar situation), everything looked totally normal in the app but I couldn't actually do anything - no transfers, no purchases, nothing worked even though it showed my balance. Here's what I learned: Credit Karma sends email notifications for closures, but they often get filtered into spam or promotions folders. The app can show "normal" status for days or even weeks after an account is actually closed. The only reliable way to know for sure is to test functionality - try a small transfer like $1-5 to another account. If it goes through, you're good. If it fails or gets stuck, that's your warning sign. Since your refund is coming next month, I'd honestly move most of your current balance out now while you know everything is working. Use CK Spend just as a temporary landing spot for the refund, then transfer it out immediately. I know it's an extra step, but with all the unpredictable closures happening, the peace of mind is worth it. You don't want to be stuck waiting weeks for a paper check when you need that money. Also set up email alerts/filters for Credit Karma messages so nothing gets missed. Better to be overly cautious with this situation!

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11 Random tip: make sure you're also tracking any leftover GoFundMe money if you didn't use it all for medical expenses. If you use the extra for non-medical purposes, that doesn't change the gift status, but it might affect your medical expense deduction calculations.

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3 That's a smart point. I was wondering about that since medical expenses are only deductible if you itemize and exceed that 7.5% of AGI threshold, right? So if you received $32,500 but only had $29,000 in qualifying expenses, you can't claim the full amount?

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Ava Garcia

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Exactly right! You can only deduct the actual medical expenses you paid, not the full amount received from GoFundMe. So in your case, you'd be looking at deducting up to $29,000 in medical expenses (if you itemize and exceed the 7.5% AGI threshold), regardless of receiving $32,500 total. The extra $3,500 is still considered a gift and not taxable to you, but it doesn't create additional medical deductions since you didn't spend it on qualifying medical expenses.

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Just to clarify one more important point - while the GoFundMe money is considered gifts and not taxable income to you, make sure you keep detailed records of how you used the funds. The IRS may want to see that the money was actually used for the stated medical purpose if there are ever any questions. Also, don't forget that you can potentially deduct medical expenses that you paid out of pocket beyond what the GoFundMe covered. If you had additional medical costs related to your TMJ treatment that weren't covered by the campaign funds, those could still count toward your medical expense deduction if you itemize and meet the 7.5% AGI threshold. Keep all your medical bills, insurance statements, and GoFundMe records organized together - it'll make things much easier if you ever need to reference them later!

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Natalie Wang

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This is really helpful advice! I'm actually in a similar situation with medical crowdfunding and had no idea about keeping such detailed records of how the funds were used. Do you recommend any specific way to organize all these documents? Like should I create a separate folder for GoFundMe records vs medical bills, or keep them all together chronologically? I want to make sure I'm prepared if the IRS ever has questions about it.

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