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Slightly different perspective here - have you considered just separating out the sales tax on your invoices/receipts instead of absorbing it? There are a few benefits: 1. Customers actually expect to see sales tax added separately 2. It's WAY easier for accounting/bookkeeping 3. You don't cut into your profit margins 4. Avoids all this tax deduction confusion When I switched from inclusive to exclusive pricing, my sales didn't drop at all - turns out customers are used to seeing the tax added at checkout. Just something to consider as a simpler solution to your problem.
This is what I do in my business and it's so much cleaner. Plus you can clearly show customers that the tax isn't your money - you're just collecting it for the state. Transparency helps everyone.
I've been dealing with this exact same issue in my small business! After reading through all these responses, I'm convinced that backing out the sales tax from gross receipts is definitely the right approach rather than trying to deduct it as an expense. One thing I'd add is to make sure you're also considering multi-state sales tax rules if you sell online. I got caught off guard when I started selling to customers in other states and didn't realize I had economic nexus obligations in some of them. Each state has different thresholds for when you need to start collecting and remitting sales tax. Also, if you're doing craft shows or farmer's markets across state lines, you might need temporary sales tax permits in those states. I learned this the hard way when a show organizer informed me I needed to collect local sales tax for that jurisdiction. The good news is once you get your system set up correctly to separate the tax component from your actual sales revenue, quarterly filings become much more straightforward. I use a simple spreadsheet that automatically calculates the breakdown, and it's saved me so much headache compared to when I was trying to figure out deductions.
Great point about multi-state sales tax! I'm just getting started with my craft business and hadn't even thought about selling across state lines yet. How did you figure out which states you had nexus in? Is there a threshold amount of sales before you need to worry about it, or does it kick in immediately once you sell to someone in another state? Also, when you mention temporary permits for craft shows - do the show organizers usually help with that information, or did you have to research each location yourself? I'm planning to do some shows this summer and want to make sure I don't get caught off guard like you did!
Your instinct to be cautious is absolutely right - this would be tax fraud and the consequences aren't worth the risk. I work in tax compliance and can confirm that the IRS automated matching systems will catch this discrepancy almost immediately when the same SSN appears on multiple returns with conflicting dependency status. The key issue here is the support test calculation. Even if you're working part-time and covering some personal expenses, your parents providing housing (at fair rental value) plus tuition assistance likely means they're covering well over 50% of your total annual support. Free housing alone could easily be worth $8,000-12,000+ per year depending on your area. For the financial aid issue, definitely explore dependency override appeals with your school's financial aid office. These are designed exactly for situations where your FAFSA dependency status doesn't reflect your actual ability to pay. You'll need to document your circumstances, but many students successfully get additional aid this way without risking tax penalties. Also remember you should still file your own tax return as a dependent (checking the box that someone can claim you) to get back any withheld taxes and potentially claim education credits. You're not giving up money by filing correctly - you're just avoiding serious legal trouble down the road.
This is exactly the kind of professional perspective OP needs to hear. As someone who's seen friends make costly mistakes with their taxes, I can't stress enough how important it is to get this right the first time. The point about housing value is crucial - I never realized until I started looking at apartments that even a basic room could easily be worth $600-1000+ per month. When you multiply that by 12 months, plus factor in utilities, food, and any tuition help, the numbers add up fast. It really puts into perspective why the IRS considers you a dependent in these situations. The financial aid appeal route sounds like the much better strategy here. Has anyone had success with these appeals, and if so, what kind of documentation did the financial aid office want to see?
I understand your frustration with the financial aid situation, but your mom is absolutely correct - claiming yourself as independent while she also claims you as a dependent would be tax fraud. The IRS has automated systems that will immediately flag when the same Social Security number appears on multiple returns with conflicting dependency status. The real issue is determining whether your mom should legitimately be claiming you as a dependent. For a 22-year-old college student, you must meet the "qualifying child" test: be a full-time student for at least 5 months, live with your parents for more than half the year, and have your parents provide more than 50% of your total support. That support calculation includes the fair rental value of living at home (often $8,000-15,000+ annually), plus any tuition assistance, food, utilities, insurance, and other expenses your parents cover. Even if you're working part-time and paying for personal expenses, your parents are likely providing well over 50% of your total support. Instead of risking tax penalties, focus on addressing the financial aid issue properly. Contact your school's financial aid office about a dependency override appeal or special circumstances review. Many schools can adjust aid packages when your FAFSA doesn't accurately reflect your ability to pay. This is the legitimate way to get additional financial aid without committing tax fraud. You should still file your own tax return (checking the box that says someone can claim you as a dependent) to get back any withheld taxes and claim eligible education credits.
This is really comprehensive advice that covers all the key points OP needs to understand. I went through a similar situation a couple years ago and made the mistake of initially thinking I could claim independence just because I had a job. What really opened my eyes was when I actually calculated the fair rental value of my living situation - even sharing a bedroom in my college town would have cost me $700+ per month, plus utilities, which alone was more than I was making at my part-time campus job. Add in the tuition help from my parents and it wasn't even close to the 50% threshold. The financial aid appeal route is definitely worth pursuing. A friend of mine successfully got an additional $3,500 in grants after documenting that her parents' income didn't reflect their actual ability to contribute due to some specific family circumstances. The key was being thorough with the documentation and following up persistently but professionally with the financial aid office. Stay on the legal side of things - it's just not worth the risk of penalties and potential criminal charges for what amounts to a relatively small tax benefit compared to the potential consequences.
One thing I'd be concerned about is potential issues with other family members. When my grandfather passed, we found cash hidden in his home and it caused a HUGE family fight even though it wasn't nearly as much as you're talking about. If there's no documentation stating it was meant specifically for you, other family members might feel entitled to a portion, especially when it's such a large amount. Have you discussed this with your parents or siblings? It might be worth having those conversations before making any deposits, just to keep family relationships intact.
This is such an important point. My family literally stopped speaking to each other for years over a similar situation with my grandmother's jewelry. Even though she told me verbally certain pieces were for me, without it in writing, it became a nightmare.
This is a complex situation that requires careful handling. First, I'd strongly recommend consulting with both a tax professional and an estate attorney before making any deposits. Here's why: The timing is crucial - since your grandfather passed 8 years ago, there may be statute of limitations issues that could work in your favor, but you need professional guidance to understand the implications. For the bank deposit, you're absolutely right that they'll file a CTR for amounts over $10k, but this isn't inherently problematic if you can document the source. I'd suggest preparing a written statement explaining: - When and where you found the money - Your grandfather's background (the Colombian business sale) - Any witnesses to his verbal statements about leaving you his "special savings" Consider having a family meeting before proceeding. Even if your grandfather verbally indicated this was for you, other family members may have legitimate concerns about such a large undisclosed asset from the estate. The IRS will likely have questions about why this money is surfacing now, but being proactive and transparent will help. A tax professional can help you prepare the proper documentation and determine if any estate tax issues need to be addressed. Don't rush this process - taking time to handle it properly will save you potential headaches later.
This is really solid advice. I'm curious though - when you mention "statute of limitations issues that could work in your favor," what exactly does that mean? Are you saying that after a certain number of years, the IRS can't come after you for taxes that should have been paid on the estate? And if so, would that apply to this situation since the money was essentially "hidden" and not part of the original estate filing?
I ran into this question in my job as a traveling nurse. My agency reimburses per diem, but they specifically mention this "50 mile rule" in their policy. From what I understand after talking to our payroll department, the 50 miles is actually THEIR policy, not an IRS requirement. They use it as a simplified way to determine who qualifies for tax-free per diem. A company can set their own policies for reimbursement that are more restrictive than the IRS minimum requirements. So if you're getting per diem from your employer, check THEIR policy documents rather than just IRS publications.
This is really important info that people miss! My company does the same thing - their policy is stricter than the IRS requirements. Does your company's W-2 reflect the per diem in box 12 with a code L? That's how mine shows it.
As a tax preparer, I see this confusion about the 50-mile rule constantly during tax season. What many people don't realize is that the IRS actually uses a "sleep or rest" test rather than a specific mileage requirement. Publication 463 explains that you must be away from your tax home long enough to require substantial sleep or rest to meet the demands of your work. The 50-mile distance is more of a practical guideline that courts and the IRS use to help determine if overnight travel was truly necessary for business purposes. If you're traveling 30 miles but genuinely need to stay overnight due to early morning meetings or safety concerns, that could still qualify. Conversely, traveling 60 miles for a day trip wouldn't qualify for per diem. For audit protection, I always tell my clients to maintain a detailed travel log with business purpose, dates, locations, and why overnight stay was necessary. Also keep any employer communications about travel requirements - these carry significant weight with auditors.
This is exactly the kind of professional insight I was looking for! As someone new to business travel deductions, I'm curious about the "safety concerns" you mentioned as a valid reason for overnight stays. What types of safety situations would the IRS typically accept as legitimate business necessity? For example, if I have to drive through mountain passes in winter conditions and my employer recommends staying overnight rather than driving back the same day, would that qualify even at shorter distances?
Gabriel Freeman
Don't forget to check with your state tax agency too! Some states have their own free file programs separate from the federal ones. I'm in California and they have CalFile which is completely free for state filing regardless of income, and it accepts unemployment income. Saved me $39 on state filing fees and was actually easier to use than the paid services.
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Laura Lopez
ā¢Good point! I'm in New York and they have a similar free program called "NY Free File" that accepts unemployment forms. Could save the OP that extra $39 state fee!
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Isabella Oliveira
Just wanted to add another option that worked great for me last year - TaxSlayer through the IRS Free File program. I had a W-2, 1099-G from unemployment, and some student loan interest deduction, and it handled everything for free (federal filing). The key thing is making sure you access it through the official IRS Free File portal like others mentioned. When I went directly to TaxSlayer's website, they wanted to charge me, but through the IRS portal it was completely free for my income level. One thing I liked about TaxSlayer is that it walks you through each form step-by-step and explains what each line means in plain English. Super helpful when you're dealing with unemployment tax situations for the first time. Definitely worth checking out as another free alternative!
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Zoe Christodoulou
ā¢Thanks for mentioning TaxSlayer! I hadn't heard of them before but the step-by-step explanations sound really helpful. I'm definitely one of those people who gets confused by tax terminology, especially with unemployment stuff since this was my first time dealing with it. Did you find their interface pretty user-friendly overall? And do you remember roughly what the income limit was for their free version through the IRS portal?
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