IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr calls for you, so you don't have to wait on hold.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call
Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

AstroAlpha

•

Be careful about counting on weekend processing. While Chime does technically process deposits on weekends, I've seen numerous cases where there were delays specific to tax refunds. The ACH network that handles these transfers has multiple participants, and any one of them can cause delays. Last year, many Chime users reported that despite having DDDs on Fridays, their deposits didn't show until Monday or Tuesday. I'd recommend having a backup plan rather than assuming you'll have access to those funds over the weekend.

0 coins

I've been using Chime for my tax refunds for the past two years, and here's what I've consistently experienced: Yes, Chime does process deposits on weekends! Last year my refund hit on a Sunday morning when my DDD was for Tuesday. This year, same thing - got it Saturday afternoon with a Monday DDD. The key thing to understand is that Chime processes deposits as soon as they receive them from the IRS, 24/7. The real variable is when the IRS actually sends out the funds, which is typically 1-2 days before your official DDD. So if your DDD is 5/26, there's a good chance the IRS will send it on 5/24 or 5/25, and Chime will deposit it as soon as they get it - even if that's over the weekend. One thing I've learned is to check your account early in the morning on weekends. Mine usually showed up between 8-10 AM when it came on weekends. Good luck with your refund!

0 coins

One important thing to note about FreeTaxUSA/TaxHawk - they don't support multiple state filings in a single return like some other services do. I work remotely but spent time in 3 different states last year, and I had to create separate returns for each state. It was kind of a pain. Anyone know if there's an easier way to handle multi-state returns with their software?

0 coins

Unfortunately that's one of the limitations with FreeTaxUSA. For multi-state returns, you might actually be better off with TurboTax or H&R Block even though they cost more. I had to file in two states last year and ended up paying for each state separately on FreeTaxUSA. The process wasn't terrible but definitely not as streamlined as it could be.

0 coins

Jamal Carter

•

Thanks for all the helpful info everyone! I had no idea FreeTaxUSA and TaxHawk were the same company - that definitely clears up my confusion. It sounds like FreeTaxUSA is the way to go for most people, especially compared to the expensive options like TurboTax. I'm in a pretty straightforward tax situation (just W-2 and some student loan interest), so it should work well for me. I'll probably check both sites for any promo codes before I file, since it sounds like they sometimes have different deals running. Really appreciate everyone sharing their experiences!

0 coins

Cole Roush

•

Just wanna point out that TurboTax DOES actually have a way to handle this situation properly, but it's not obvious. Instead of just entering what's in box 10, you need to go to the property tax section and choose "I want to enter my property taxes manually" option. Then it gives you a field to enter your prorated amount with an explanation box where you can note why your number differs from the lender's form.

0 coins

This is super helpful, thanks! I was pulling my hair out trying to figure out how to override the default in TurboTax. Do you know if other tax software like H&R Block or FreeTaxUSA handle this better?

0 coins

This is such a common issue that trips up so many new homeowners! I went through the exact same confusion when I bought my first house mid-year. One thing that helped me was creating a simple spreadsheet to track all the numbers - the full year's tax bill, the exact closing date, days of ownership, seller credits, and what my lender reported. Having it all laid out visually made it much clearer that I needed to use the prorated amount based on actual ownership days. Also, don't forget to save your closing statement (HUD-1 or CD) forever - the IRS might want to see how the taxes were allocated at closing if they ever question your deduction amount. I keep mine in the same file as my tax returns for easy reference. The key thing to remember is that tax law is based on actual ownership, not what comes out of your pocket or what your lender reports. You owned the house for X days, so you can deduct X/365 of the annual property tax bill - period. Everything else is just accounting between you and the seller/lender.

0 coins

Has anyone actually tried setting up a Roth IRA for a minor? Which companies make this easy? My son is interested but I'm not sure where to start with the actual account setup.

0 coins

Chris Elmeda

•

We set one up for our daughter at Fidelity. It was pretty straightforward - it's called a Custodial Roth IRA. You'll need to open it as the parent/guardian since minors can't enter into contracts. You'll need the child's SSN and your ID. The minimum to open was $0 when we did it last year. Charles Schwab and Vanguard offer them too, but I found Fidelity's interface easier to use and they have good educational resources for teens about investing.

0 coins

Owen Devar

•

Great question! I've been researching this exact scenario for my own kids. The key distinction the IRS makes is between "chores" (which are considered part of normal family responsibilities) and legitimate business activities. For your specific situation with the $20 lawn mowing, if it's just your family's lawn as part of regular household chores, it typically won't qualify as earned income for IRA purposes. However, there are a few ways to make this work legitimately: 1. Help your son start an actual lawn service business where he services multiple properties in the neighborhood, not just yours. This creates genuine self-employment income. 2. If you have a business (even a side business), you could formally employ him to do lawn maintenance, office cleaning, or other legitimate business tasks at reasonable wages. 3. Consider other entrepreneurial opportunities - many teens successfully run small businesses like pet sitting, tutoring younger kids, or selling items they make. The important thing is that the work and payment need to have genuine business purpose beyond just family chores. Once he has legitimate earned income, he can contribute up to 100% of that income to a Roth IRA (up to the annual limit of $7,000 for 2025). Keep detailed records of any payments and work performed. This early start on retirement savings is an amazing gift - compound interest over 50+ years will be incredible!

0 coins

Leo McDonald

•

I'm actually surprised nobody mentioned that self-employed people do this all the time (except with quarterly payments). I left my W-2 job last year to freelance, and now I make estimated tax payments four times a year. I keep my tax money in an I-bond for the quarters between payments, which beats any HYSA right now. The key is being disciplined enough to actually set the money aside and not touch it. I've known people who spent their tax money and then couldn't pay when the bill came due.

0 coins

That's actually a really good point about the discipline required. Do you have any system you use to make sure you're setting aside enough each month? I could see myself being tempted to dip into the funds if they're just sitting in my account.

0 coins

Leo McDonald

•

I keep a separate high-yield savings account just for taxes and automatically transfer 30% of every payment I receive into it. This is slightly more than I'll actually owe, which gives me a buffer. I also use a spreadsheet to track all my income and estimated tax obligations throughout the year. When quarterly payment time comes, I calculate exactly what I need to pay and transfer just that amount to my checking account for the payment. Any extra stays in the tax account as a buffer. The psychological trick that works for me is labeling the account "Not My Money" to remind myself that it belongs to the government, I'm just holding it temporarily!

0 coins

Edwards Hugo

•

I've been doing exactly what you're thinking about for the past two years, and it's definitely possible but requires careful planning. Here's what I learned: First, you can't completely eliminate withholding for Social Security and Medicare taxes - those are mandatory FICA taxes that must be withheld from your paycheck. But you can significantly reduce or eliminate federal and state income tax withholding. The key is making sure you stay within the safe harbor rules to avoid penalties. I calculate 110% of last year's total tax liability (since my income is over $150k) and divide that by 4 for my quarterly estimated payments. This guarantees no underpayment penalty even if I owe more at filing time. I keep all my tax money in a separate high-yield savings account that I never touch except for quarterly payments. Last year I earned about $380 in interest that I wouldn't have gotten with normal withholding. Not life-changing money, but it's something. The biggest challenge is the discipline aspect - you have to be religious about setting aside the money and making those quarterly payments on time. I use automatic transfers on payday so I never see the money as "mine." One tip: start conservatively your first year. Better to overwithhold slightly and get a refund than face penalties. You can always optimize more in subsequent years once you understand your tax situation better.

0 coins

Prev1...10221023102410251026...5645Next