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Been here since January waiting on last years refund, these new codes are nothing to worry about tbh. Just part of the process
Don't panic! I had the exact same codes (570 and 971) last year with $0.00 amounts and got my refund about 10 days after the PATH Act date. The 570 is just a temporary hold while they verify your EITC eligibility - it's completely automated and routine. The 971 notice will probably just be a standard letter explaining the delay. Keep checking your transcript every few days for an 846 code (refund issued) - that's when you'll know your money is coming! The timing actually looks normal for PATH Act processing.
This is so reassuring to hear! I've been checking my transcript obsessively since seeing those codes pop up. Did you get the notice they mentioned with code 971, and if so, what did it actually say? Also, when you say "keep checking every few days" - is there a specific time of day transcripts usually update? I don't want to miss when that 846 code appears!
Important point everyone is missing: If you use the standard mileage deduction rate for the first year, you can switch between standard mileage and actual expenses in future years. But if you use actual expenses the first year, you're LOCKED IN to using actual expenses for the life of that vehicle. THIS IS HUGE if you're buying a car specifically for gig work. Get professional advice before making this decision because it could cost you thousands over the life of the vehicle if you choose wrong in year one. Also, keep a mileage log no matter what method you choose. IRS requires it even if you go with actual expenses. There are good apps for this - I use Stride.
Do you have a source for this? I've been using actual expenses for 2 years now and was planning to switch to standard mileage this year since I'm driving way more now. Am I actually not allowed to switch?
Yes, this is directly from IRS Publication 463 (Travel, Gift, and Car Expenses). The exact text states: "If you want to use the standard mileage rate for a car you own, you must choose to use it in the first year the car is available for use in your business. Then, in later years, you can choose to use either the standard mileage rate or actual expenses." And further: "If you choose to use actual expenses in the first year, you cannot use the standard mileage rate in a later year." So unfortunately, since you've been using actual expenses for 2 years, you're locked into continuing with that method for this specific vehicle. However, if you get a different vehicle in the future, you could choose the standard mileage rate for that new vehicle. This is why getting good advice before making these decisions is so important.
Something else to consider that might affect your decision - if you're consistently making $650/week between both of you from gig work, you're looking at around $33,800 annually in self-employment income. This means you'll owe self-employment tax (15.3%) on top of regular income tax. A dedicated business vehicle can help offset some of that tax burden, but make sure you're also setting aside money quarterly for estimated tax payments. The IRS expects you to pay as you go when you're self-employed, not just at year-end. Also, don't forget about business insurance. Your personal auto policy likely won't cover you during commercial activities. You'll need either rideshare coverage or commercial insurance, which will be another deductible business expense if you go the actual expenses route. One more tip: if you do buy a dedicated gig car, consider getting it inspected and any needed repairs done before you start using it for business. Those initial repair costs could potentially be deductible as startup expenses.
This is really helpful info about the self-employment tax implications! I hadn't fully considered how much we'll owe on that $33,800. Quick question - when you mention getting repairs done before starting business use, does that mean I should buy the car and get it fixed up BEFORE I start using it for deliveries? Or can I start using it right away and still deduct those initial repairs as startup costs? I'm looking at a used car that might need some minor work but want to make sure I handle the timing correctly for tax purposes.
This is such a common situation right now! Based on what you've described, the main culprits are likely: 1. **401k contributions reducing withholding**: Your 11% contribution lowered your taxable income, which is great, but it also means less tax was withheld from each paycheck throughout the year. So while you're paying less total tax, you're also getting less back as a refund. 2. **Overtime pay withholding issues**: When you get overtime, the payroll system often withholds at a higher rate assuming that's your normal pay level. But if your base salary + overtime put you in a different tax bracket temporarily, the withholding calculations can get wonky. 3. **Child Tax Credit changes**: The pandemic-era expansions have mostly expired, and depending on your income level, you might be getting less credit per child than in previous years. The fact that your state refund stayed consistent suggests this is federal tax law changes rather than errors in your filing. You might want to run the numbers on your total tax liability for both years - I bet you'll find you actually paid less total tax this year, just with better withholding throughout the year. Sometimes a smaller refund is actually a sign of a healthier tax situation!
This is really helpful! I never thought about overtime pay affecting withholding calculations that way. That actually makes a lot of sense because my overtime hours varied quite a bit throughout the year - some months I had tons, others hardly any. So the system probably couldn't predict my actual annual income accurately. The idea that a smaller refund might mean better withholding is definitely a mindset shift for me. I've always been excited about big refunds, but you're right that it probably means I was basically loaning money to the government interest-free all year. I'm going to look into adjusting my W-4 for next year so I can keep more of my money in my paychecks instead of waiting for tax season.
I'm dealing with almost the exact same situation! My refund went from $6,800 last year to $2,400 this year and I was panicking that I'd made some major mistake. Like you, I started contributing to my 401k for the first time (8% of my salary) and got a promotion that increased my base pay. After reading through all these comments, it's starting to make sense. The 401k contributions reduced my taxable income, which is good, but also meant less tax was being withheld from each paycheck. So I was actually keeping more money throughout the year instead of overpaying and getting it back as a refund. I think the hardest part is the psychological shift - I've always looked forward to that big refund check, so seeing it cut by more than half felt like something was wrong. But mathematically, if I had an extra $300+ per month in my paychecks because of better withholding, that's actually better than waiting for the government to give me my own money back with no interest. I'm definitely going to use the IRS withholding calculator to make sure everything is set up correctly for next year. Thanks everyone for the explanations - this thread has been super helpful!
Has anyone used the online form for 7004? I tried submitting electronically but got an error about the "consolidated return" field even though I left it unchecked. Is paper filing more reliable for partnership extensions?
I had a similar electronic filing issue with 7004 last year. The problem was that my tax software was automatically populating certain fields based on entity type detection, even when I thought I had left them blank. Try checking if your software has an "entity type" or "return type" setting that might be influencing how it handles the consolidated return question. Also, make sure you're using the correct version of Form 7004 - there are different versions for different entity types. If the electronic filing keeps giving you trouble, paper filing is definitely reliable for partnership extensions. I've never had issues with paper 7004s, and for something as straightforward as a partnership extension, it might be worth avoiding the electronic headaches altogether.
Thanks for that tip about the entity type setting! I just checked my software and you're absolutely right - it had automatically detected "corporation" as the entity type even though I was preparing a partnership return. Once I manually changed it to "partnership" the consolidated return field issue disappeared completely. I was getting frustrated thinking there was some complex rule I was missing, but it was just a software configuration problem. Electronic filing went through smoothly after that fix. Really appreciate you sharing that troubleshooting step!
Fidel Carson
Just so you know, the IRS has started getting reports from payment processors like PayPal and Venmo for transactions over $600 starting in 2023 (was supposed to be 2022 but they delayed it). So even though you might not have received 1099s for previous years, going forward they'll have more visibility into your online sales income.
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Isaiah Sanders
ā¢That's only for goods and services payments though right? If you use friends and family that doesn't get reported.
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Fidel Carson
ā¢Correct, it's only for goods and services payments. But using Friends and Family for business transactions is against PayPal's terms of service and can get your account limited or banned. Plus, as a buyer, you lose purchase protection when using Friends and Family. More importantly, deliberately using Friends and Family to avoid tax reporting could be considered tax evasion if the IRS can prove intent. Many platforms are getting better at detecting when people are trying to circumvent the system, so it's a risky strategy that can lead to bigger problems down the road.
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AstroAce
I've been through a similar situation and want to share some practical advice. First, take a deep breath - filing amended returns voluntarily is actually the right thing to do here, and the IRS generally views this favorably compared to discovering unreported income during an audit. Since you were buying collectibles specifically to resell at a profit, this would indeed be considered business income subject to both regular income tax and self-employment tax (15.3%). However, you can deduct all legitimate business expenses: the cost of items purchased for resale, eBay/PayPal fees, shipping supplies, packaging materials, mileage for inventory purchases, and even a portion of home internet costs if you were listing from home. The key is thorough documentation. Gather all your eBay sales records, PayPal transactions, receipts for items purchased, and any other business-related expenses. The more organized you are, the smoother the process will be. Regarding penalties, yes, there will likely be failure-to-pay penalties (0.5% per month up to 25%) plus interest (currently around 7-8% annually), but these are calculated only on the net tax owed after deductions. An accuracy penalty of 20% might apply, but this can sometimes be waived for reasonable cause - especially since you were following advice from a professional. Don't let anxiety paralyze you. The longer you wait, the more interest accrues. Consider consulting with a new tax professional who specializes in amended returns to ensure everything is filed correctly and to help minimize your liability through proper deduction strategies.
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Charlotte Jones
ā¢This is really helpful advice! I'm in a somewhat similar boat but with Amazon FBA sales instead of eBay. One question - when you mention documenting everything, how far back should someone realistically try to reconstruct records if they weren't keeping good books initially? I have some PayPal records but definitely didn't save all my purchase receipts from a few years ago. Is it worth trying to piece together what I can, or should I just focus on being more organized going forward?
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