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Has anyone considered the gift tax implications here? If you're paying your kids above-market interest rates, the excess interest could potentially be considered a gift from you to them. My accountant flagged this for me in a similar situation.
That's a really good point! My tax guy told me to make sure I was charging my kid at least the applicable federal rate (AFR) to avoid potential gift tax issues going in the other direction. I think the current AFR rates are on the IRS website somewhere.
This is a great discussion! One thing I'd add is to make sure you're documenting everything properly from the start. I learned this the hard way when my daughter borrowed money from me (opposite situation, but same principle). Keep records of: - The original source of funds in those joint accounts (was it allowance money, gift money from grandparents, etc.?) - A written loan agreement with clear terms, even if informal - Payment records showing principal vs. interest breakdown - Bank statements showing the transfers The IRS really cares about substance over form here. If your kids truly owned that money originally and you're paying them legitimate interest, then yes, it's taxable income to them. But if you were just moving your own money around between accounts, that's different. The key is being able to prove the economic reality of who owned what. Also worth noting - if your kids are minors and this pushes their income over the filing thresholds mentioned earlier, you might want to consider whether the tax complications are worth it compared to just keeping it as a family arrangement without formal interest payments.
This is really helpful advice about documentation! I'm just starting to set up a similar arrangement with my teenage son who has been saving money from his part-time job. Based on what everyone's saying here, it sounds like I should create a proper loan agreement upfront rather than just doing informal transfers. One question though - when you mention "substance over form," does that mean the IRS might still question this even with good documentation? Like if they think the interest rate is too generous or the arrangement seems artificial? I want to make sure I'm not creating more tax complications than necessary for what's essentially teaching my kid about lending and interest.
Great question! I was in a similar situation a few years ago. Here's how I think about it: If you're already at 15% for your 401k and getting your full employer match, the decision really comes down to your personal financial goals and cash flow needs. **Go with higher 401k contributions if:** - You're behind on retirement savings for your age - You have stable income and don't need the extra cash flow - You're close to a tax bracket threshold (as mentioned above) - You want to maximize long-term wealth building **Go with higher withholding if:** - You're on track for retirement but just want to avoid owing taxes - You might need more flexibility with your money during the year - You have other financial priorities (emergency fund, debt payoff, etc.) - You prefer having more control over your cash flow One middle-ground approach: increase your 401k by just 2-3% and adjust your withholding slightly. This way you get some additional tax reduction benefits from the 401k while not tying up too much extra cash. The most important thing is that you're being proactive about this instead of getting surprised again next April!
This is really helpful advice! I like the middle-ground approach you suggested. As someone new to thinking about this stuff, I'm wondering - is there a rule of thumb for how much you should be contributing to retirement by different ages? Like, you mentioned being "behind on retirement savings for your age" - how would someone know if they're behind or on track? I'm in my late 20s and just started really focusing on my finances, so I'm trying to figure out if 15% is actually good or if I should be doing more regardless of the tax situation.
Great question! There are some general guidelines that can help you figure out if you're on track. A common rule of thumb is to have 1x your annual salary saved by age 30, 3x by 40, 6x by 50, and 8x by 60. But these are just rough targets. At 15% contribution rate in your late 20s, you're actually doing really well! Most financial advisors recommend saving 10-15% of your income for retirement, and you're already at the higher end of that range. The fact that you're starting to focus on this in your late 20s puts you ahead of many people. If you're getting an employer match, make sure you're at least contributing enough to get the full match - that's free money. Beyond that, 15% is solid. You could consider increasing it gradually over time as your income grows (like bumping it up 1% each year), but you're definitely not "behind" at your current rate. The key is consistency and starting early, which you're already doing. Don't feel pressure to max out everything immediately - building good habits and maintaining a sustainable contribution rate is more important than trying to do too much too fast.
Another factor to consider is your current tax situation versus your expected tax situation in retirement. If you think you'll be in a lower tax bracket when you retire (which is common), then maximizing traditional 401k contributions now makes a lot of sense - you're getting a tax deduction at your current higher rate and will pay taxes later at a lower rate. However, if you expect to be in the same or higher tax bracket in retirement, or if tax rates in general go up by then, the immediate tax savings from higher 401k contributions might not be as beneficial long-term. Given that you're already at 15% which is really solid, and you owed taxes this year, I'd lean toward a hybrid approach: bump your 401k up to maybe 17-18% and also increase your withholding slightly. This gives you some additional tax reduction benefits while also ensuring you don't owe next year. The IRS penalty for underpaying can be pretty steep if you owe more than $1,000, so making sure you're covered on the withholding front is important regardless of what you do with your 401k.
This is a really good point about thinking ahead to retirement tax brackets. I'm just starting to learn about all this tax planning stuff, and I hadn't really considered what my tax situation might look like decades from now. How do you even estimate what tax bracket you'll be in during retirement? It seems like there are so many variables - will I have the same income needs, will tax rates change, will Social Security still be around, etc. Is there a simple way to think about this, or do you just have to make your best guess? Also, you mentioned the IRS penalty for underpaying - is that something that kicks in automatically if you owe more than $1,000, or are there other factors that determine whether you get penalized?
One important thing to watch for with multiple W2s - Social Security tax. Each employer withholds 6.2% of your wages for Social Security up to the annual wage limit ($147,000 for 2022). If your combined income from both jobs exceeded that limit, you may have overpaid Social Security tax that you can get back when filing.
Is this something tax software automatically catches? I made about $160k combined between my two jobs last year but I'm not sure if I got this credit.
Most major tax software (TurboTax, H&R Block, etc.) should catch this automatically when you enter multiple W2s. The software will calculate if you exceeded the Social Security wage base and add the excess as a credit on your return. If you're doing your taxes by hand, you'll need to calculate this yourself on your Form 1040. This is definitely one of those situations where software is worth it, since it's an easy thing to miss if you're doing it manually.
Just wantd to mention, when I had 2 w2s I just added the box 1 income from both, added the fed witholding together, and the state witholding together. Enter those on your 1040 and ur good to go! No need to complicate it imo.
This is incorrect advice! You cannot just add the totals from Box 1 and enter as a single amount. You need to enter each W2 separately in your tax return. There are multiple boxes on the W2 beyond just income and withholding that need to be reported individually.
Don't overthink this. The property is still a rental until you sell it. Expenses still go on Sch E. If you get audited, the IRS isnt gonna care that it was vacant while u were trying to sell it. Happens all the time.
I went through this exact situation two years ago with a duplex that sat vacant for 5 months while trying to sell. What really helped me was creating a clear paper trail showing my intent to sell rather than abandon the property. I kept copies of all MLS listings, price reduction notices, showing feedback, and even rejection letters from potential buyers. When I filed my Schedule E with expenses but no rental income for those months, I included a brief statement explaining the vacancy was due to active marketing for sale. The IRS never questioned it, but having that documentation gave me peace of mind. Also, make sure you're only deducting expenses that you would have paid anyway as a rental property owner - don't try to deduct any costs specifically related to marketing the property for sale, as those should be treated as selling expenses when you calculate capital gains. One tip: if you're doing any repairs or improvements to help with the sale, be careful how you categorize those. Minor repairs to maintain the property can still go on Schedule E, but major improvements to increase sale value should be added to your basis.
This is really helpful advice about documentation! I'm curious though - when you say "minor repairs to maintain the property can still go on Schedule E" versus "major improvements to increase sale value should be added to your basis" - where do you draw that line? For example, if I replace old carpet with new carpet to help with showings, is that maintenance or an improvement? What about repainting rooms that were already painted but looked worn?
Jasmine Quinn
Anyone know how this affects my 401k? I'm in a similar situation where I got laid off and have a 401k with the old employer. Will taking distributions from that generate imputed income W-2s too?
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Dominic Green
ā¢Taking distributions from your 401k wouldn't generate imputed income or a W-2. If you take money out of your 401k, you'd receive a Form 1099-R, not a W-2. The W-2 with imputed income is specifically for non-cash benefits you received from your employer after termination (like life insurance, health benefits, or vested stock as mentioned above). The 401k is your money - when you withdraw from it, it's not considered income from your employer, it's considered a distribution from your retirement account.
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Madison Tipne
Based on your description of receiving severance in 2023 and having a $2,800 W-2, this is most likely related to those restricted stock units (RSUs) that Victoria mentioned. Many companies have "accelerated vesting" or "continued vesting" provisions in their equity agreements for layoffs, where your unvested stock continues to vest for a period after termination. The key thing to understand is that when RSUs vest, the IRS treats the fair market value of those shares as regular W-2 income, even though you didn't receive cash. Your former employer is required to report this and withhold taxes just like regular salary. Check if there's any federal or state tax withholding shown on this W-2 - if so, you'll get credit for those withholdings when you file your return. Since you strategically timed your severance for tax purposes, you'll want to factor this additional $2,800 of income into your 2023 tax planning. It's treated exactly like regular wages for tax purposes, so it will be subject to your marginal tax rate. The good news is this is likely a one-time occurrence unless you have more equity that continues vesting in 2024.
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Mateo Hernandez
ā¢This explanation makes perfect sense! I was so focused on the severance timing that I completely forgot about the RSU vesting schedule continuing after the layoff. Looking at the W-2 more carefully, I can see there was federal tax withholding of about $620, so at least they took care of some of the tax burden upfront. One follow-up question - do I need to do anything special when I file my taxes since this is stock-related income, or do I just enter it like a regular W-2? I'm using TurboTax and want to make sure I don't miss anything important.
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