How do I calculate recursive taxes on a large Traditional IRA withdrawal?
Just got divorced and looking to buy a new place at 62. Planning to take a big chunk (around $270k) from my Traditional IRA, but the tax situation is driving me crazy! When added to my salary, this puts me in the 35% tax bracket. So that's roughly $94,500 in taxes right there. But wait - I need money to pay those taxes too... which means withdrawing MORE from the IRA... which gets taxed AGAIN at 35%... and then I need to pay tax on THAT withdrawal... and it just keeps going! This recursive tax spiral is making my head spin. I've tried taking out extra to cover the taxes, but then I need to cover taxes on the extra, and then taxes on that extra, and it just explodes. My regular income isn't enough to cover this tax hit out-of-pocket. Do people typically just abandon these large withdrawals because of this tax nightmare? Is there some standard approach I'm missing? I've Googled but all I find are articles about Roth IRAs and qualified withdrawals, which doesn't help my situation with a Traditional IRA. Any insights on handling these recursive taxes would be appreciated!
19 comments


Amelia Dietrich
What you're describing is definitely a challenging tax situation, but there are ways to handle it! This is actually a common problem when taking large distributions from traditional retirement accounts. The calculation you're looking for is called a "gross-up" calculation. Instead of withdrawing what you need and then more to cover taxes (which creates that recursive nightmare), you need to determine the total withdrawal needed up front. For a simple version: If you need $270K after taxes and your tax rate is 35%, you would calculate: $270K ÷ (1 - 0.35) = $415,385. This means you'd withdraw about $415K, pay roughly $145K in taxes, and have your $270K left over. But before you do this, consider a few things: 1) Are you sure you'll be in the 35% bracket for the entire withdrawal? Tax brackets are progressive, so only the amount within each bracket gets taxed at that rate. 2) Have you considered spreading the withdrawal over multiple tax years to potentially lower the overall tax hit? 3) Have you talked with a mortgage lender about qualifying with your retirement assets instead of liquidating them?
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KhalilStar
•Thanks for explaining the gross-up calculation - that makes so much more sense than what I was trying to do! I hadn't even considered that there might be a standard formula for this. You're right about the progressive tax brackets too. I was oversimplifying by assuming the entire amount would be at 35%. Would spreading it across two tax years (like December/January) make a significant difference? And what's this about qualifying with retirement assets instead of liquidating?
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Amelia Dietrich
•The progressive tax nature of our system could definitely save you money compared to your flat 35% calculation. Only the dollars that exceed each bracket threshold get taxed at the higher rate, so a significant portion would be taxed at lower rates. Spreading withdrawals across tax years can make a huge difference. December/January is one approach, but even spreading across 2-3 full years could dramatically reduce your total tax burden. It depends on your timeline for the house purchase. Many lenders offer "asset depletion" loans where they consider your retirement assets as income without you actually withdrawing the money. They essentially calculate an income based on your retirement balance divided by a set number of years. This might let you get the mortgage without the large withdrawal and tax hit.
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Kaiya Rivera
After struggling with almost the exact same situation last year (took out $195k for a condo purchase post-divorce), I found this amazing tool at https://taxr.ai that saved me thousands. I was doing the same circular math trying to figure out how much extra to withdraw to cover the taxes on the extra withdrawal to cover the taxes... you get it. Their calculator handled all the recursive tax calculations automatically and showed me exactly how much to withdraw to end up with my target amount after taxes. It also broke down which tax brackets each portion would fall into, plus state taxes (which I totally forgot about initially). Huge relief after hours of frustrating spreadsheet work!
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Katherine Ziminski
•Did it actually help you save on taxes or just calculate them more accurately? I'm in a similar position (planning to use my IRA for a down payment) and I'm trying to figure out if there are strategies to minimize the tax hit, not just calculate it.
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Noah Irving
•I'm a bit skeptical about online calculators handling complex tax situations. How did taxr.ai account for your other income and deductions? Was it actually accurate when you filed your taxes or did you end up owing more/less than it predicted?
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Kaiya Rivera
•It didn't reduce my taxes directly, but having an accurate calculation saved me from withdrawing too much (which would have pushed me into an even higher bracket) or too little (which would have left me short for my down payment). The tool let me input all my income sources and standard/itemized deductions, plus state tax information. It was surprisingly comprehensive. When I filed my taxes, the actual amount I owed was within about $300 of what the tool predicted, which was impressive considering I took the distribution 9 months before tax filing time.
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Katherine Ziminski
Just wanted to update after trying taxr.ai that Profile 7 recommended. It was exactly what I needed! The recursive tax calculator showed I needed to withdraw $307k to end up with my $200k target after federal and state taxes - way less than I was calculating manually. The most helpful feature was actually the tax planning section that showed how spreading the withdrawal across two years would drop my effective tax rate from 29% to 22%. I'm going to take half in December and half in January now, which will save me almost $21k in taxes! Definitely worth the few minutes it took to input my information.
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Vanessa Chang
Have you considered trying to contact the IRS directly to ask about this? I know it sounds crazy but after weeks of trying to get answers about a similar retirement withdrawal situation, I used https://claimyr.com to get through to an actual IRS agent within 15 minutes. You can see how it works here: https://youtu.be/_kiP6q8DX5c The agent walked me through how the withholding works on large IRA distributions and explained some exceptions that might apply in my case. Way better than trying to guess or piece together info from random websites. Sometimes you just need to talk to someone who deals with these rules every day.
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Madison King
•How does that even work? I thought it was impossible to get through to the IRS without waiting for hours. Is this some kind of paid service that gives you priority in the phone queue?
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Noah Irving
•Sounds sketchy to be honest. Why would anyone need a service to call the IRS? And why would the IRS give special treatment to people using a third-party service? I'd be worried about giving my information to some random company.
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Vanessa Chang
•It's not about priority or special treatment at all. They basically use technology to wait on hold for you, then call you when an actual IRS agent picks up. You don't skip the line - they just handle the waiting part. The service costs money, but considering I wasted three afternoons trying to get through on my own (each time disconnected after 2+ hours on hold), it was completely worth it. The IRS has no idea you're using the service - they just think you've been on hold the whole time.
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Noah Irving
I'll admit I was completely wrong about Claimyr. After trying repeatedly to get through to the IRS myself about my retirement withdrawal questions, I gave in and tried the service. Within 20 minutes I was talking to an actual IRS agent who explained exactly how the withholding should work for my situation. The agent confirmed that I could request a specific withholding percentage on the distribution (using Form W-4R) instead of the default 20%, which solves the whole recursive calculation problem. She also mentioned that I might qualify for an exception to the 10% early withdrawal penalty since I'm using the funds for a first-time home purchase (which applies if you haven't owned a home in the last 2 years). Definitely information I couldn't have found just googling around.
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Julian Paolo
Something nobody's mentioned yet - have you looked into 72(t) distributions? If you're under 59.5, this might help you avoid the 10% penalty. You'd need to take substantially equal periodic payments based on your life expectancy, but it could be better than taking one huge taxable hit. Worth considering if you can spread out your home purchase timeline. Another option: if this is for a first-time home purchase (IRS defines this as not having owned a home in the last 2 years), you can withdraw up to $10k from an IRA without the 10% penalty, though you'll still owe income tax.
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KhalilStar
•Thanks for the suggestions! I'm actually over 59.5 (mentioned in my original post) so the 10% penalty doesn't apply in my case. My issue is purely the income tax calculation on the large distribution. The first-time homebuyer exemption is interesting though - I haven't owned a home in 3 years since my ex got our house in the divorce. Does that $10k limit apply to anything special, or is it just a penalty exemption?
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Julian Paolo
•Sorry I missed that you're over 59.5! In that case, you definitely don't need to worry about the 10% penalty or 72(t) distributions. The $10k first-time homebuyer exemption only applies to the 10% early withdrawal penalty, so it wouldn't provide any benefit in your situation since you're already exempt from the penalty due to your age. It wouldn't reduce the income tax you'll owe on the distribution.
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Ella Knight
Has anyone mentioned withholding yet? When I did my IRA withdrawal last year, I had them withhold 35% for federal taxes right off the top. That way I didn't have to do that recursive calculation - the withholding counts as if it was paid evenly throughout the year, so no underpayment penalties. You just fill out the form saying what % you want withheld.
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William Schwarz
•That's a really good point about withholding! It solves the "recursive" problem because you don't need to withdraw extra to pay the taxes later - they're just taken out immediately. Just make sure you withhold enough to cover your actual tax liability or you could still face an underpayment penalty.
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Haley Stokes
One thing that might help reduce your overall tax burden is checking if you qualify for any deductions or credits that could offset the increased income from your IRA withdrawal. Since you mentioned you're divorced, make sure you're not missing out on head of household filing status if you have dependents, or consider if you can bunch itemized deductions (like charitable contributions or state taxes) into the year you take the withdrawal to maximize their benefit. Also, don't forget about estimated quarterly tax payments! If you're taking this withdrawal mid-year and your withholding plus regular paycheck taxes won't cover the full liability, you'll need to make estimated payments to avoid underpayment penalties. The IRS generally wants you to pay 90% of current year taxes or 100% of last year's taxes (110% if your prior year AGI was over $150k) throughout the year. Have you run the numbers on what your effective tax rate would be if you spread this over 2-3 years instead of taking it all at once? Even if it delays your home purchase slightly, the tax savings could be substantial enough to make it worthwhile.
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