Calculating cost basis for stocks bought and sold over multiple transactions - FIFO vs average cost method confusion
This is my first time dealing with taxes on my stock trades and I'm totally confused about how to calculate the profit/loss correctly. I'm especially stuck on figuring out the cost basis for stocks I've purchased multiple times. For simple cases, I get it. Like if I bought 10 shares of Tesla at $130 each and sold 8 shares later at $195, my cost basis would be $1,040 and my profit would be $520 (8 × $65). Then I'd pay either short or long-term capital gains depending on my holding period. But here's where I'm lost: I bought 5 shares of Amazon at $130, then another 10 shares at $195 a week later. Then I sold 8 shares at $260 after holding for a while. Should I use the average purchase price for my cost basis, which would be 8 shares × ((5 × $130 + 10 × $195)/15) = $1,387? Or do I use FIFO, which would be (5 × $130) + (3 × $195) = $1,235? My broker didn't include the cost basis on the 1099-B they sent me, but they did provide a list of all my transactions. Now I'm manually calculating everything. Am I allowed to choose whichever method gives me the lower taxable profit (FIFO in this example), or does the IRS require a specific method? I've been searching online but can't find a clear answer. Any help would be really appreciated!
41 comments


Sophia Long
The IRS generally expects you to use the FIFO (First-In, First-Out) method unless you specifically identify which shares you're selling at the time of sale. This means your oldest shares are sold first. In your Amazon example, using FIFO would be correct: first the 5 shares at $130 ($650), then 3 of the shares at $195 ($585), for a total cost basis of $1,235. Your gain would be $2,080 (sale price) - $1,235 (cost basis) = $845. If you want to use a different method like specific identification (which can be more tax advantageous), you need to tell your broker specifically which shares to sell at the time of the transaction. After the fact, you're generally stuck with FIFO. For future reference, most brokers can be set up to track this automatically. When you have them include the cost basis on your 1099-B, it saves a ton of headache. Since you're doing it manually this year, make sure to keep detailed records of your calculations in case of an audit.
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Carter Holmes
•Thanks for clarifying! So just to make sure I understand correctly, since I didn't specify which shares I was selling at the time, I have to use FIFO? There's no way to use the average cost method? Also, do you know how I would report this on my tax forms? Do I just put the total gain on Schedule D, or do I need to break it down somehow?
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Sophia Long
•You're correct - since you didn't specify which shares at the time of sale, you'll need to use FIFO. The average cost method is only allowed for mutual funds and certain dividend reinvestment plans, not for individual stocks. For reporting, you'll list each sale on Form 8949. Since your 1099-B doesn't include cost basis, you'll check Box C (short-term) or Box F (long-term) at the top of the form. List each sale transaction, including dates acquired, dates sold, proceeds, and your calculated cost basis. Then transfer the totals to Schedule D. Make sure to keep all your transaction records and calculations in case the IRS has questions.
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Angelica Smith
After spending hours trying to manually calculate my stock gains last year, I found taxr.ai (https://taxr.ai) and it completely changed my tax preparation experience. It automatically analyzes all your trading history, applies the correct cost basis method, and even optimizes your tax situation where allowed. I had 50+ trades with partial buys and sells across multiple brokers last year, and was spending days trying to reconcile everything. Taxr.ai imported my trading history, showed me which method (FIFO, LIFO, or specific ID) was best for each situation, and generated all the forms I needed. The time saved was incredible.
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Logan Greenburg
•Does taxr.ai work with crypto transactions too? I've got both stocks and crypto and the crypto part is especially confusing with all the different exchanges.
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Charlotte Jones
•How accurate is it compared to the paid tax software packages? I've been using TurboTax but it's getting expensive and doesn't handle complex stock situations well without upgrading to their premium package.
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Angelica Smith
•Yes, taxr.ai absolutely works with crypto transactions! It supports imports from all major crypto exchanges and can handle even complex situations like staking rewards, mining income, and token swaps. It applies the same FIFO/LIFO logic to crypto transactions and even accounts for wash sale rules when applicable. For accuracy, I found it more detailed than TurboTax for investment situations. It breaks down each transaction with far more granularity than TurboTax's basic investment module. The best part is that it shows you exactly how it calculated everything, so you can verify the math. I actually found a mistake in my previous year's TurboTax calculations after using taxr.ai and had to file an amendment to get money back.
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Charlotte Jones
I wanted to follow up about taxr.ai since I gave it a try after seeing it mentioned here. Wow, what a difference! I was struggling with exactly the same issue as the original poster - multiple stock purchases at different prices and trying to figure out the right cost basis method. The platform instantly identified which transactions would benefit from FIFO vs specific identification, showing me side-by-side comparisons of my tax liability under different scenarios. It saved me over $400 in taxes by optimizing which lots to sell first! Plus, it generated the perfect Form 8949 that I could just attach to my return. For anyone dealing with investment taxes, especially with missing cost basis info from brokers, this tool is a game changer. I'm definitely not going back to my old spreadsheet method.
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Lucas Bey
If you're having trouble reaching the IRS for clarification on cost basis methods (I tried calling them 6 times last tax season), try Claimyr (https://claimyr.com). They solved my IRS connection problems. Watch how it works: https://youtu.be/_kiP6q8DX5c I had a similar cost basis issue last year with some employee stock options where the reported basis was clearly wrong. After waiting on hold for hours with the IRS multiple times and getting disconnected, I found Claimyr. They got me connected to an actual IRS agent in about 20 minutes who explained exactly how to report my specific situation and which forms I needed.
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Harper Thompson
•How does this actually work? Does it just call the IRS for you? Couldn't I just keep calling myself until I get through?
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Caleb Stark
•This sounds like a scam. You're telling me some random service can magically get through to the IRS when millions of people can't? Yeah right. The IRS phone system is broken by design and no app is going to fix that.
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Lucas Bey
•It doesn't just call for you - they use a smart system that navigates the IRS phone tree and waits on hold in your place. When they reach a live agent, you get a call back to connect with the agent. It's entirely different from just calling repeatedly yourself because their system is optimized to work with the IRS phone system patterns. I was skeptical too until I tried it. The difference is they have technology that keeps your place in line even during disconnects and can call back at optimal times when hold times are shorter. I spent literal days trying to get through on my own before using this. It's basically like having someone wait in a physical line for you, then texting when they get to the front so you can take their place.
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Caleb Stark
I need to admit I was completely wrong about Claimyr. After posting my skeptical comment, I was desperate enough to try it when I discovered the IRS had applied my payment to the wrong tax year and I was getting automated collection notices. It actually did exactly what they claimed - I got a text when they were navigating the IRS menu system, another update when I was in the hold queue, and then a call connecting me directly to an IRS agent. Total time was about 30 minutes instead of the 3+ hours I had wasted previously. The agent fixed my payment application issue in minutes once I actually reached them. For anyone dealing with cost basis issues that need IRS clarification, this really does work for getting an actual human on the phone who can help. I'm genuinely shocked at how well it worked.
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Jade O'Malley
Something nobody has mentioned yet - for stocks without reported cost basis, you should also check if you have dividend reinvestment set up. Those tiny fractional share purchases can be a pain to track but they need to be included in your cost basis calculations. The same FIFO rules apply to them, and I learned this the hard way when I got a CP2000 notice from the IRS questioning why my reported gain was lower than they calculated. I had to explain that their calculation ignored my reinvested dividends that had already been taxed!
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Carter Holmes
•Oh wow, I didn't even think about dividend reinvestments! I do have DRIP turned on for some of my positions. How exactly do I account for all those tiny purchases? I must have dozens of them throughout the year at different prices.
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Jade O'Malley
•For dividend reinvestments, you'll need to treat each reinvestment as a separate purchase at the price on the reinvestment date. I'd recommend downloading a complete transaction history from your broker that includes all reinvestments. Then you apply the same FIFO method - if you sell shares, you sell the oldest ones first, including any fractional shares from reinvestments. If you're doing this manually, create a spreadsheet tracking each purchase (including reinvestments) with date, number of shares, and price. When you sell, start removing shares from the top of your list (oldest first) until you've accounted for all shares sold. The sum of those purchase prices becomes your cost basis. It's tedious but necessary to avoid problems with the IRS.
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Hunter Edmunds
Does anyone know if wash sale rules affect the cost basis calculation when using FIFO? I sold some Tesla at a loss in December and rebought in January, but now I'm selling some again and trying to figure out if my earlier loss disallowed by the wash sale should be factored into my current cost basis.
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Ella Lewis
•Yes, wash sales absolutely affect your cost basis! When you have a wash sale (selling at a loss and buying substantially identical securities within 30 days before or after), the disallowed loss amount gets added to the cost basis of the replacement shares. So if you sold Tesla at a $500 loss in December and bought back in January, that $500 loss gets added to the cost basis of your January purchase. When you eventually sell those shares, your higher cost basis will reduce your taxable gain (or increase your loss).
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Amara Okafor
Just wanted to add a practical tip for anyone manually calculating cost basis - create a separate "lot tracking" sheet in Excel or Google Sheets with columns for Date Purchased, Shares, Price Per Share, and Total Cost. Then when you sell, use another sheet to track which lots you're selling from (oldest first for FIFO). I also recommend keeping screenshots or PDFs of your broker's transaction history as backup documentation. I learned this lesson when my broker's website was down during tax season and I couldn't access my transaction details. Having those records saved locally made all the difference when my CPA needed to verify my calculations. One more thing - if you're dealing with stock splits or spinoffs, those events can complicate your cost basis calculations significantly. The IRS has specific rules about how to allocate your original cost basis across the new shares, so don't forget to account for those if applicable.
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Freya Thomsen
This is exactly the kind of confusion I went through last year! One thing that helped me was realizing that the IRS Publication 550 has detailed examples of cost basis calculations for different scenarios. For your Amazon example, you're correct that FIFO gives you the lower taxable gain ($845 vs $933 using average cost), but as others mentioned, you can't choose average cost for individual stocks anyway. A few additional tips from my experience: 1. Double-check that your broker didn't actually provide cost basis - sometimes it's on a separate supplement or available through their website portal even if not on the main 1099-B 2. Keep detailed records of your calculations in case the IRS questions them later 3. Consider setting up specific identification with your broker for future trades if you want more control over which lots to sell The manual calculation is painful but you'll get through it. Just take it one transaction at a time and don't rush - accuracy is more important than speed when it comes to taxes!
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Freya Pedersen
•This is super helpful, thank you! I didn't realize Publication 550 had specific examples - I'll definitely check that out. You're right about double-checking the broker info too. I just logged into my account portal and found some additional transaction details that weren't on the mailed 1099-B. One follow-up question though - when you mention "specific identification" for future trades, do you literally have to tell your broker "I want to sell the shares I bought on [specific date]" when you place the sell order? Or is there a way to set this up as a default method with most brokers? I'm definitely going to be more organized about this going forward. The manual spreadsheet method is teaching me a lot, but I can see how this would become unmanageable with more frequent trading.
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Liam McConnell
•Yes, with specific identification you need to specify which exact shares you want to sell at the time of the trade. Most brokers allow you to do this either by calling them directly or through their online platform if they have an advanced trading interface. For example, with Fidelity or Schwab, when you place a sell order online, there's usually an option to select "specific shares" or "tax lots" where you can choose which purchase date/price you want to sell from. Some brokers let you set a default method (like FIFO, LIFO, or "tax-efficient") but the key is that you have to make the election before the trade settles. The important thing is that you can't change your mind after the fact - whatever method you use (or don't specify) at the time of sale is what you're stuck with for tax purposes. So if you want maximum flexibility, it's worth learning your broker's specific identification process now rather than during tax season!
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Paolo Ricci
Great discussion everyone! As someone who went through this exact same confusion last year, I wanted to add that if you're feeling overwhelmed by the manual calculations, don't hesitate to consult a tax professional for this first year. I spent weeks trying to figure out my cost basis calculations and ended up paying a CPA $200 to review my work - best money I ever spent for peace of mind. The CPA caught several errors in my manual calculations, including some dividend reinvestments I had missed and a stock split adjustment I had calculated incorrectly. More importantly, they showed me how to set up a better tracking system for next year so I won't have to go through this nightmare again. One thing I learned is that many CPAs who specialize in investment taxation offer "review only" services where they'll check your calculations without preparing your entire return. This can be a cost-effective middle ground if you want to do most of the work yourself but get professional verification on the tricky parts. Also, make sure you understand the holding period rules for determining short-term vs long-term capital gains. The calculation isn't just about cost basis - the tax rate you'll pay depends on whether you held the shares for more than a year, and this gets complicated when you're using FIFO with multiple purchase dates.
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Andre Dupont
•This is such great advice about getting professional help! I'm actually in a very similar situation to the original poster - first time dealing with stock taxes and feeling completely overwhelmed by all the calculations. The point about holding periods is especially helpful because I hadn't even thought about how FIFO affects whether my gains are short-term or long-term. If I'm selling my oldest shares first, some might be long-term while others are short-term depending on when I bought them, right? I think I'm going to take your suggestion about finding a CPA who does review-only services. Do you have any tips on finding someone who specializes in investment taxation? I've been doing my own taxes with software for years, but this stock situation is way beyond what I'm comfortable handling alone. Also, did the CPA help you set up a better tracking system, or did you end up using one of the automated tools that others mentioned in this thread?
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Zoe Wang
•You're absolutely right about the holding period complexity with FIFO! When you sell shares using FIFO, each portion of your sale could have a different holding period. So if you bought shares in January 2023 and March 2024, then sold some in February 2024, the January shares would be long-term but the March shares would be short-term. For finding a good CPA, I'd recommend checking with your state's CPA society for referrals to tax professionals who specialize in investments. You can also ask for recommendations on local investing forums or check if any CPAs in your area advertise investment tax specialization. My CPA actually recommended a hybrid approach - she helped me set up a proper Excel template with formulas that automatically calculate FIFO cost basis and holding periods, then suggested I try one of the automated tools mentioned here (like taxr.ai) for next year to compare results. The manual system works great as a backup and helps me understand what's happening, but the automation saves tons of time for complex situations. The review-only service cost me $150-200 but saved me from potentially costly mistakes. Plus, now I feel much more confident about handling this myself going forward.
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Tyrone Johnson
This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm dealing with a similar situation but with an added complexity - I have some stocks that went through a merger where I received cash plus shares of the acquiring company. Does anyone know how this affects the cost basis calculation? I'm assuming I need to allocate my original cost basis between the cash received (which would be a taxable event) and the new shares I received, but I'm not sure about the exact methodology. Also, for anyone still manually tracking everything, I found that keeping a simple running log throughout the year makes tax time much easier. Every time I buy or sell, I immediately update a spreadsheet with the transaction details. It takes 30 seconds per trade but saves hours during tax preparation. The IRS really needs to require brokers to provide complete cost basis information for all transactions. It's frustrating that we have to piece this together manually, especially for those of us who aren't tax professionals!
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Christian Burns
•Great question about the merger situation! This is definitely one of the more complex scenarios. For a cash-and-stock merger, you'll need to allocate your original cost basis between the cash portion (taxable) and the new shares received (which carry over basis). The allocation is typically based on the fair market values at the time of the merger. So if you received $50 cash and $100 worth of new company stock, you'd allocate 1/3 of your original cost basis to the cash portion (taxable gain/loss) and 2/3 to the new shares (deferred until you sell them). Your broker should have provided a Form 1099-B or similar documentation explaining the tax treatment of the merger, including the allocation percentages. If not, you might need to look up the merger details from the companies involved or consult a tax professional, as these calculations can get quite complex. I totally agree about keeping a running log - that's such a smart approach! I wish I had started doing that from the beginning instead of trying to reconstruct everything at tax time.
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Anastasia Sokolov
One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is the importance of checking if your broker offers cost basis tracking services for a fee. After going through the manual calculation nightmare myself last year, I discovered that Fidelity offers enhanced cost basis reporting for a small annual fee that includes historical data reconstruction. They were able to go back and calculate cost basis for stocks I bought years ago, including accounting for stock splits, dividend reinvestments, and even some corporate actions I had completely forgotten about. It cost me about $75 but saved me dozens of hours and gave me confidence that everything was calculated correctly. Another tip for anyone doing this manually - don't forget about wash sales between different accounts! If you have both taxable and retirement accounts with the same broker, or accounts with different brokers, the IRS wash sale rules still apply across all of them. I learned this the hard way when I sold Tesla at a loss in my taxable account and bought it back in my Roth IRA within 30 days. For those dealing with complex situations like the merger example mentioned above, or if you have employee stock options, RSUs, or ESPP transactions mixed in with your regular trading, I'd strongly recommend getting professional help for at least the first year. The potential cost of getting it wrong far outweighs the cost of a CPA review.
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Haley Bennett
•This is such valuable information about broker cost basis services! I had no idea that some brokers offered historical reconstruction for a fee. That $75 sounds like a bargain compared to the time and stress of doing it manually, especially with all the corporate actions you mentioned. Your point about wash sales across different accounts is really important too - I definitely wouldn't have thought about that! Does this mean if I have accounts with multiple brokers, I need to track wash sales manually across all of them? That sounds like it could get really complicated to monitor. Also, for anyone following this thread, I wanted to mention that I ended up trying the taxr.ai tool that @Angelica Smith recommended earlier, and it actually caught a wash sale situation I had missed in my manual calculations. It s'been a lifesaver for someone like me who s'new to investment taxes and probably would have made costly mistakes on my own. The combination of getting professional help for the first year like (you suggested plus) using better tools going forward seems like the smart approach. Thanks for sharing your experience with the Fidelity service - I m'going to look into whether my broker offers something similar!
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Yara Elias
This has been an incredibly educational thread! As someone who's been putting off dealing with my investment taxes because of exactly these cost basis complications, I'm grateful for all the detailed explanations and practical advice shared here. I'm in a similar boat to the original poster - multiple stock purchases at different prices, missing cost basis on my 1099-B, and feeling completely overwhelmed by the FIFO calculations. Reading through everyone's experiences has given me the confidence to tackle this systematically. A few key takeaways I'm noting for myself: 1. FIFO is mandatory for stocks unless specific identification was used at time of sale 2. Dividend reinvestments must be tracked as separate purchases 3. Wash sale rules can affect cost basis calculations 4. Professional review might be worth the cost for peace of mind I think I'll start with the manual calculation approach to understand the mechanics, then potentially use one of the automated tools mentioned here to verify my work. And definitely keeping better records going forward! Thanks to everyone who shared their expertise and experiences. This community is incredibly helpful for navigating these complex tax situations that most of us weren't taught how to handle.
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Amara Oluwaseyi
•@Yara Elias I m'so glad this thread helped clarify things for you! I was in the exact same position when I started - completely overwhelmed and avoiding the whole mess. Your systematic approach sounds perfect. One small addition to your takeaways: don t'forget to save screenshots or PDFs of all your transaction histories before you start calculating. I learned this lesson when my broker s'website went down right in the middle of my cost basis calculations and I temporarily lost access to some of my historical data. Also, if you re'going to try the manual approach first which (I think is smart for understanding the mechanics ,)consider starting with your simplest positions first. Build confidence with stocks where you only bought once or twice before tackling the more complex ones with multiple purchases and dividend reinvestments. The automated tools are great for verification, but understanding the underlying calculations yourself really helps when you need to explain your numbers to the IRS or answer questions from a tax preparer. Good luck with your calculations - you ve'got this!
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Freya Andersen
I've been following this discussion and wanted to share a resource that might help others avoid some of the headaches you've all described. The IRS actually has a free worksheet in Publication 550 (Investment Income and Expenses) that walks through FIFO calculations step-by-step with examples. What I found particularly helpful was their example on pages 40-42 that shows exactly how to handle multiple purchases of the same stock sold in partial lots. It breaks down the math in a way that's much clearer than trying to figure it out from scratch. For anyone doing manual calculations, I'd also recommend creating a simple three-column tracking system: Date Purchased | Shares | Price per Share. When you sell, just work from the top (oldest) down until you've accounted for all shares sold. Keep a running total of both shares sold and the corresponding cost basis. One mistake I made initially was not accounting for stock splits properly in my FIFO queue. If you had any stock splits during your holding period, make sure to adjust both the number of shares AND the per-share price for those older lots before doing your FIFO calculations. The IRS Publication 550 has examples of this too. The manual approach is definitely tedious, but it really helps you understand what's happening with your taxes. Plus, having done it once, you'll be much better at keeping organized records going forward!
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Ethan Scott
•Thank you so much for mentioning Publication 550! As someone completely new to investment taxes, having an official IRS resource with step-by-step examples is exactly what I needed. I was trying to piece together information from random websites and getting more confused. Your point about stock splits is particularly helpful - I actually do have one position that split 2-for-1 during the year and I had no idea I needed to adjust both the share count and price for my older purchases. That could have been a major error in my calculations! The three-column tracking system you described sounds much simpler than the complex spreadsheet I was trying to build. Sometimes the straightforward approach really is the best. I'm going to download Publication 550 right now and start working through their examples before tackling my own situation. It's reassuring to hear that doing it manually once helps with organization going forward. Even though this feels overwhelming now, I'm sure I'll be grateful for understanding the underlying mechanics rather than just relying on automated tools without knowing if they're correct.
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Liam Mendez
As a newcomer who's been lurking here trying to learn about investment taxes, this entire discussion has been incredibly valuable! I'm in almost the exact same situation as Carter - first time dealing with stock transactions on my taxes and completely confused about cost basis calculations. What really strikes me is how many different tools and approaches everyone has shared. From manual spreadsheets to automated platforms like taxr.ai, to broker services, to getting professional help - it seems like there are solutions for every comfort level and budget. I particularly appreciate the emphasis on understanding the underlying mechanics even if you use automated tools. The point about FIFO being mandatory for stocks (unless you specifically identified shares at sale time) was a key clarification I needed. I had been wondering if I could just pick whichever method gave me a lower tax bill! One question for the group: for someone just starting out with a relatively simple situation (maybe 5-10 stock transactions), would you recommend starting with the manual Publication 550 approach to learn the fundamentals, or jumping straight to one of the automated tools to avoid potential errors? I'm comfortable with spreadsheets but want to make sure I don't mess up my first year of investment taxes. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences - this community knowledge is so much more helpful than trying to navigate IRS publications alone!
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Dmitry Smirnov
•Welcome to the community, Liam! Your situation sounds very manageable for a first-timer. With only 5-10 transactions, I'd actually recommend starting with the manual Publication 550 approach first. Here's why: 1. It'll teach you the fundamentals so you can spot-check any automated tools later 2. With that few transactions, it's totally doable in a weekend 3. You'll understand exactly how FIFO works and why certain shares get selected 4. If you make a mistake, it's easier to catch and fix with a small number of transactions Once you've worked through it manually and understand the logic, then try one of the automated tools like taxr.ai on the same data to verify your results match. That gives you the best of both worlds - education plus verification. The key things to remember for your first year: stick with FIFO since you didn't specify shares at sale time, include any dividend reinvestments as separate purchases, and keep detailed records of your calculations. Don't overthink it - the IRS just wants to see that you used a consistent, reasonable method and can support your numbers. You've got this! Start with Publication 550 and feel free to ask questions as you work through it.
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Millie Long
As someone who just went through this exact same situation last tax season, I can definitely relate to the confusion! The FIFO vs average cost method distinction really tripped me up initially too. Just to reinforce what others have said - you're absolutely correct that FIFO is required for individual stocks when you didn't specify which shares to sell. In your Amazon example, the $1,235 cost basis using FIFO is the right approach, giving you an $845 gain rather than the $933 you'd get with average cost method. One thing I learned the hard way is to double-check your broker's online portal or app - sometimes they have more detailed transaction histories available digitally than what they mail with the 1099-B. I found additional dividend reinvestment records that way that I had completely missed in my initial calculations. Also, make sure you're tracking the purchase dates carefully for each lot since they determine whether your gains are short-term or long-term. With FIFO, you might have some shares that qualify for long-term treatment and others that don't, depending on your holding periods. The manual calculation process is definitely painful, but it's taught me to be much more organized about tracking everything throughout the year. Best of luck with your calculations - the IRS just wants to see consistency and documentation, so don't stress too much about perfection!
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Alberto Souchard
•Thanks for sharing your experience, Millie! Your point about checking the broker's online portal is so important - I almost missed some crucial transaction details that weren't on my printed 1099-B. I'm curious about something you mentioned regarding dividend reinvestments. When you found those additional records, did you have to go back and recalculate your entire cost basis using FIFO? I'm worried I might have missed some of these smaller transactions and am wondering how much of a difference they typically make in the final numbers. Also, your comment about tracking purchase dates for short-term vs long-term treatment is really helpful. I hadn't fully considered how FIFO affects the holding period calculations when you have multiple purchase dates. Did you end up with a mix of short-term and long-term gains on your sales, or were most of your positions held long enough to qualify for long-term treatment? The organization aspect is definitely something I need to work on going forward. This manual process is teaching me so much about what I should have been tracking all along!
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Aisha Abdullah
•Yes, I did have to recalculate everything once I found those dividend reinvestment records! In my case, it was about 15-20 small DRIP transactions throughout the year that I had completely overlooked. While each individual reinvestment was small (usually $10-50), they added up to a few hundred dollars in additional cost basis that significantly reduced my taxable gain. The tricky part was that these reinvestments happened at different dates and prices, so I had to insert them into my FIFO queue in chronological order. It completely changed which shares were considered "sold first" when I applied the FIFO method. I ended up using a spreadsheet where I sorted all purchases (including reinvestments) by date, then worked down the list as I accounted for each sale. For the holding periods, I did end up with a mix! Some of my Tesla sales were long-term because I was selling shares I bought over a year ago, but other portions of the same sale were short-term because I had made additional purchases more recently. You have to track each lot separately for both cost basis AND holding period purposes. My advice would be to download a complete transaction history that includes all corporate actions, dividends, and reinvestments before you start calculating. It's much easier to be thorough upfront than to discover missing transactions halfway through your calculations!
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Zoe Papadopoulos
•This is such a helpful discussion! I'm actually in a very similar situation to the original poster - first time dealing with stock taxes and feeling overwhelmed by all the cost basis calculations. Reading through everyone's experiences has been incredibly reassuring that I'm not the only one struggling with this. @Aisha Abdullah your point about downloading a complete transaction history upfront is so smart - I was just working off my printed 1099-B and probably would have missed dividend reinvestments too. I m'going to log into my broker s'portal right now and get the full transaction export before I start any calculations. The mix of short-term and long-term gains from the same stock position is something I hadn t'considered either. It makes sense with FIFO that you d'be selling your oldest shares first, but tracking the holding periods for each lot separately seems like it could get complicated quickly. I think I m'going to follow the advice from earlier in this thread and start with the Publication 550 manual approach to understand the mechanics, then maybe use one of the automated tools to verify my work. With everyone s'guidance here, this feels much more manageable than it did when I first started reading about cost basis calculations! Thanks to everyone for sharing such detailed experiences - this community is amazing for helping newcomers navigate these complex tax situations.
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Ethan Moore
As someone who went through this exact same confusion last year, I completely understand your frustration with the cost basis calculations! Your Amazon example is actually a perfect illustration of why the IRS rules exist - you're correct that FIFO gives you a cost basis of $1,235 ($650 + $585), resulting in a gain of $845. One thing that helped me tremendously was setting up a simple tracking spreadsheet with columns for Date, Shares, Price, and Total Cost. When I sell shares, I just work from the top (oldest purchases) down until I've accounted for all shares sold. This makes the FIFO calculation much clearer visually. A few practical tips from my experience: Make sure to check if your broker has additional transaction details available through their online portal - I found dividend reinvestment records there that weren't on my printed 1099-B. Also, don't forget that each FIFO "lot" you sell may have different holding periods, so some portions of your sale might qualify for long-term capital gains treatment while others are short-term. The manual calculation is definitely tedious, but doing it once really helps you understand the mechanics. For next year, I'd recommend asking your broker about setting up automatic cost basis reporting or considering specific identification if you want more control over which shares to sell. Hang in there - it gets much easier once you have a system in place!
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GalaxyGlider
•This is exactly the kind of practical guidance I was hoping to find! Your spreadsheet approach with Date, Shares, Price, and Total Cost columns sounds so much clearer than trying to keep track of everything in my head. I've been staring at my transaction history feeling completely overwhelmed, but breaking it down systematically like you described makes it feel manageable. The point about different holding periods within the same sale is really important - I hadn't fully grasped that FIFO means I could have both short-term and long-term portions of a single stock sale depending on when I originally bought each lot. That definitely complicates the tax calculation, but at least now I know to watch for it. I'm definitely going to check my broker's online portal for additional details before I start calculating. Based on what others have shared here, it sounds like dividend reinvestments and other corporate actions are commonly missed when just working from the printed 1099-B. Thanks for the encouragement about it getting easier with experience! As a newcomer to investment taxes, it's reassuring to hear from someone who successfully navigated this same confusion. I'm feeling much more confident about tackling this systematically now.
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