I found out the hard way that even if the broker doesn't report it, the IRS can still come after you! I had some old IBM stock from my grandpa that I sold in 2022, and the gain wasn't reported by my broker. I thought "cool, free money" and didn't include it on my taxes. Got a CP2000 notice six months later saying I owed taxes plus penalties and interest. The broker not reporting it to the IRS doesn't mean the IRS won't find out eventually, especially if the amounts are substantial. Better to report everything properly the first time!

This is such an important topic that catches so many people off guard! I went through the exact same confusion last year with my Schwab account. One thing I'd add to the great advice already given is to keep really detailed records of ALL your transactions, especially the ones not reported to the IRS. I started using a simple spreadsheet to track purchase dates, sale dates, and cost basis for everything - even when my broker has the info. This saved me so much time during tax prep. Also, if you're dealing with inherited securities or stocks transferred from another brokerage, those are prime candidates for being "not reported to IRS" on your 1099-B. The receiving broker often doesn't have the original purchase information needed for proper cost basis reporting. One last tip - if you're unsure about any complex transactions, consider getting help from a tax professional for this year. The cost is usually worth it to avoid potential penalties down the road, and you'll learn the process for handling it yourself in future years. Tax compliance stress is real, but you're asking the right questions!

Just a quick tip - if all else fails, you can always print and mail your return. I know it's old school, but sometimes it's the easiest solution when dealing with electronic filing issues.

I went through this exact same nightmare last year! The confusion between IP PINs and self-selected PINs is so frustrating because the IRS and tax software companies don't explain the difference clearly. Here's what I learned: Your 6-digit IP PIN is correct and you DO need to use it when filing. But that 5-digit PIN your software is asking for is probably the self-selected PIN you created when you first set up your account with that tax software (sometimes called an e-file PIN). Check your email from when you first registered - you might have created a 5-digit PIN back then. For the AGI issue, definitely use the transcript amount ($58,750). The IRS makes adjustments during processing that create differences between your filed return and their records. When they ask for "prior year AGI" for verification, they want what's in their system, not what's on your paper copy. One more tip - if your software keeps rejecting the IP PIN, make sure you're entering it in the right field. Some software has separate fields for "Identity Protection PIN" and "Electronic Filing PIN" and people mix them up all the time.

Filed my Kansas return electronically on February 3rd and still waiting - hoping to see it hit my account in the next day or two based on what everyone's sharing here! It's reassuring to see most people are getting theirs within that 7-10 business day window. Thanks for all the data points, really helps set expectations instead of just wondering.

Filed electronically on February 5th and just received my Kansas refund this morning! Took exactly 7 business days which aligns perfectly with what everyone else is reporting. For anyone still waiting, I noticed my bank account updated around 6 AM but the KDOR website status didn't change until later in the afternoon, so definitely check your bank first. Really appreciate all the timeline info everyone shared here - made the waiting much more bearable knowing what to expect!

This has been such a thorough discussion - thank you everyone for sharing your experiences and expertise! As someone who's dealt with similar donation situations, I wanted to add one more consideration that might be helpful. If you're doing multiple furniture donations throughout the year (like during a move or major decluttering), it might be worth keeping a donation log or spreadsheet. I started doing this after my accountant suggested it, and it's made tax time so much easier. I track the date, charity name, items donated, condition, and my research for fair market value all in one place. Also, for anyone considering the "sell then donate cash" approach that was mentioned - don't forget that if you sell items for more than you originally paid, you might owe capital gains tax on the difference. This is pretty rare with used furniture since it typically depreciates, but it's something to keep in mind for valuable antiques or collectibles. One last thing - some charities have their own valuation guides or can provide guidance on fair market value for common donation items. It's worth asking when you schedule your pickup. The more documentation you have supporting your valuation, the better prepared you'll be if there are ever any questions down the line.

You're absolutely right about the capital gains scenario being unlikely with furniture! Most used furniture depreciates significantly, so you'd rarely sell for more than you originally paid. But yes, technically if you did sell for a profit, you'd owe capital gains tax on the difference. The good news is that for personal-use items (like furniture), you generally don't need to track original purchase prices unless you're dealing with valuable collectibles or antiques. The IRS knows that normal household items lose value over time. If you did happen to sell something for more than you paid, you'd need to report it, but again - very uncommon with regular furniture. For donation purposes, you're focused on current fair market value anyway, not what you originally paid. So that dining table you bought for $800 five years ago might only be worth $200-300 now in good used condition, which is what you'd use for your donation deduction. The donation log really is a game-changer though! Even starting mid-year is better than trying to piece everything together at tax time. I include photos in mine too - makes the whole process so much smoother and gives you solid documentation if needed.

For what it's worth, I had this exact situation last year and it turned out my company had switched payroll providers mid-year. That's why they issued two separate W-2s. One was from January-June with the old provider, and one was from July-December with the new one. Is it possible your company did something similar?

I went through something very similar recently! In my case, the second W-2 with only Box 12A filled in was reporting my employer's HSA contributions that were made throughout the year. The code in Box 12A was "W" which specifically indicates employer HSA contributions. What helped me understand it was looking at the actual letter code next to the dollar amount in Box 12A - that tells you exactly what type of contribution or benefit it represents. Common codes are D (401k elective deferrals), W (employer HSA contributions), C (group term life insurance), etc. You definitely need to enter both W-2s when filing. I use TurboTax and it has a simple "Add another W-2" option that walks you through entering multiple forms from the same employer. The software automatically handles how to report everything correctly so you don't have to worry about double-counting anything. Just make sure when you're entering the second W-2 that you only fill in the boxes that actually have amounts - don't try to enter zeros in the empty boxes.