IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.



Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

Read all of our Trustpilot reviews


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

Serene Snow

•

What futures broker are you using? I'm getting wrecked by the tax reporting from my current broker. Their 1099s are a nightmare and don't clearly separate section 1256 contracts.

0 coins

Not OP but I use Interactive Brokers and their tax reporting for futures is actually pretty good. They clearly mark Section 1256 contracts and provide all the info needed for Form 6781. Their year-end tax package even breaks down the 60/40 split for you.

0 coins

I'm using NinjaTrader connected to the CME. Their reporting is decent but not perfect - I have to do some manual work to get everything organized properly for taxes. I've heard good things about Interactive Brokers like the other person mentioned, especially for tax reporting. One thing that's helping me is I'm keeping a separate spreadsheet tracking all my trades. Takes a bit more time but will make tax season much easier. I record the contract, entry/exit prices, fees, and P&L for each trade. Planning to categorize everything properly for the 60/40 split before I hand it to my accountant.

0 coins

Great question about futures taxation! I've been trading futures for a few years now and can confirm what others have said about the 60/40 rule. One thing I'd add is that you should also consider the wash sale rules, which work differently for futures compared to stocks. With futures contracts under Section 1256, wash sales don't apply the same way they do for securities. This means you can actually realize losses for tax purposes even if you immediately re-enter a similar position, which can be helpful for tax planning throughout the year. Also, since you're projecting such significant profits, you might want to look into making estimated quarterly tax payments to avoid underpayment penalties. The IRS generally wants you to pay as you go, especially with income this large. You can use Form 1040ES to calculate and make these payments. One last tip - keep detailed records of all your trading activity, including timestamps, contract specifications, and P&L for each trade. The IRS can be pretty strict about substantiating trading income, especially at higher amounts. Having clean records will save you headaches if you ever get audited.

0 coins

This is really helpful information! I hadn't thought about the wash sale rule differences for futures. That actually sounds like a significant advantage over stock trading. Quick question - when you mention making estimated quarterly payments, how do you calculate what to pay when your trading income can be so variable? Some months I might make $500k and others I might be flat or even down. Do you base it on your current year-to-date performance or try to project the full year? Also, regarding the detailed record keeping - are there any specific software tools you'd recommend for tracking futures trades? I'm currently just using spreadsheets but wondering if there's something better designed for this purpose.

0 coins

One thing nobody has mentioned - if you have proof that your ex knowingly claimed your child incorrectly (like text messages where he admits it), you should consider reporting him for tax fraud using Form 3949-A. The IRS takes this stuff seriously, especially if there's a pattern.

0 coins

Dylan Cooper

•

This seems extreme and could escalate an already tense co-parenting situation. Maybe try resolving it directly with the IRS first before potentially triggering an audit of your ex? Remember you still have to deal with this person for years regarding your child.

0 coins

Chloe Davis

•

I'm so sorry you're dealing with this - it's incredibly frustrating when an ex tries to pull something like this! As others have mentioned, you're absolutely in the right here. Since you have full custody, you're the custodial parent and entitled to claim your daughter. I'd recommend filing your paper return ASAP and including a clear cover letter explaining that you're the custodial parent with full legal and physical custody. Attach copies of your custody agreement (highlight the relevant sections), school enrollment records showing your address, and any medical records that show you as the primary contact. The more documentation you provide upfront, the smoother the process will be. One tip that helped me when I dealt with IRS paperwork - send everything certified mail with return receipt so you have proof of delivery and timing. Keep copies of everything you send. The waiting is the worst part, but stay strong! The IRS will sort this out correctly, and your ex will likely think twice about trying this again once he realizes the consequences. Focus on documenting everything properly and let the system work - you've got this!

0 coins

Leila Haddad

•

This is really helpful advice! I especially like the tip about certified mail - I hadn't thought of that but it makes total sense to have proof of delivery. Quick question though - when you say "medical records," what specifically should I include? Just something showing I'm listed as the primary contact, or do I need actual visit records? I don't want to include more personal information than necessary, but I also want to make sure I have enough documentation to prove my case.

0 coins

Kara Yoshida

•

This whole thread has been incredibly helpful! As someone who's had to deal with HSA contribution limits and corrections myself, I can't stress enough how important it is to stay on top of these details throughout the year rather than discovering issues at tax time. One additional resource that might be helpful for folks dealing with HSA complications - IRS Publication 969 has a comprehensive section on HSAs that covers contribution limits, excess contributions, and the correction procedures. It's not the most exciting reading, but it's the definitive source for understanding all the rules and requirements. Also, for anyone who's self-employed or has varying income throughout the year, remember that HSA contribution limits are based on your HDHP coverage months, not your income level. If you only had qualifying high-deductible health plan coverage for part of the year, your contribution limit is prorated accordingly. This is another common source of over-contributions that people sometimes miss. The bottom line is that while HSA over-contribution mistakes happen, they're usually fixable if you catch them early and handle them properly. The advice in this thread about keeping good records, working with your HSA administrator, and understanding the tax implications is spot on. Better to deal with a little paperwork now than penalties and headaches later!

0 coins

Anna Kerber

•

Thanks for mentioning IRS Publication 969 - that's such a valuable resource that not enough people know about! I wish I had found that earlier when I was dealing with my own HSA confusion. Your point about the prorated contribution limits for partial year coverage is really important. I see this mistake happen a lot with people who start new jobs mid-year or change from individual to family coverage. It's easy to assume you can contribute the full annual amount, but if you didn't have qualifying HDHP coverage for the entire year, that limit gets reduced accordingly. I'd also add that anyone who's unsure about their coverage status should check with their HR department or review their Summary Plan Description. Sometimes what looks like a high-deductible health plan actually isn't HSA-eligible due to other plan features like copays for certain services before the deductible is met. Better to verify your eligibility upfront than discover contribution issues later!

0 coins

Oscar O'Neil

•

This has been such an informative discussion! I'm dealing with a similar HSA over-contribution issue right now, and reading through everyone's experiences has been incredibly helpful. I wanted to add one more consideration that might be relevant for some people - if you're married and both spouses have HSA-eligible coverage through different employers, make sure you're coordinating your total household HSA contributions. The IRS has specific rules about contribution limits when both spouses have HSAs, and it's easy to accidentally exceed the limits if you're not communicating about your individual contributions. Also, for anyone who might be in a similar situation in the future, don't panic if you discover an over-contribution. As this thread shows, these issues are usually fixable with the right approach and documentation. The key is acting quickly once you discover the problem and working closely with your HSA administrator to ensure the correction is handled properly. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences and solutions - this kind of real-world advice is so much more helpful than trying to decipher IRS publications on your own!

0 coins

Great point about coordinating HSA contributions between spouses! That's definitely something that can trip people up, especially when both employers are automatically deducting HSA contributions from paychecks. I'm curious about your situation - did you catch your over-contribution before or after filing? And if you don't mind sharing, what was the main cause of the excess? I'm always interested to hear about the different ways these issues can arise since it helps me stay more vigilant with my own HSA management. The advice throughout this thread about acting quickly and working with your HSA administrator has been reassuring. It's good to know that these problems, while stressful when they happen, are generally solvable with the right approach!

0 coins

This is such a helpful thread! I'm in a similar situation - bought a used pickup truck in December 2024 for $22,000 and started using it for my landscaping business in January 2025. Based on what everyone's saying here, it sounds like I can take the 80% bonus depreciation on the business portion. One question though - I use the truck about 85% for business and 15% personal. So would I calculate 85% of $22,000 = $18,700, then take 80% bonus depreciation on that $18,700 amount? That would be about $14,960 in first-year depreciation? Also really appreciate the heads up about the future sale implications. I hadn't thought about how taking all this depreciation now would affect taxes if I sell the truck down the road. Definitely something to factor into the decision.

0 coins

Dylan Wright

•

Yes, you've got the calculation exactly right! Since you use the truck 85% for business, you'd take 85% of $22,000 = $18,700 as your business basis, then apply the 80% bonus depreciation to that amount for about $14,960 in first-year depreciation. Just make sure you're keeping detailed records of your business vs personal use - mileage logs, trip purposes, etc. The IRS can be pretty strict about substantiating that 85% business use percentage, especially with vehicles since they're often used for both business and personal purposes. And yeah, definitely good to think long-term about the sale implications. With that much depreciation taken upfront, if you sell the truck in a few years for more than your adjusted basis, you'll have depreciation recapture to deal with. But for most people, the immediate tax savings outweigh the future tax consequences, especially if you're planning to keep the vehicle for several years.

0 coins

Omar Farouk

•

I've been following this thread closely since I'm dealing with a similar situation. Bought a used van in November 2024 for $19,500 and started using it for my delivery business in February 2025. One thing I want to add that hasn't been mentioned yet - make sure you understand the difference between "placed in service" date versus purchase date. The IRS cares about when you actually started using the vehicle for business, not when you bought it. So even though I bought my van in 2024, since I didn't start using it for business until 2025, that's the tax year where I can claim the depreciation. Also, for anyone considering this deduction, remember that you have to choose between taking the standard mileage deduction OR the actual expense method (which includes depreciation). You can't do both. The standard mileage rate for 2025 is pretty high, so run the numbers both ways to see which gives you a bigger deduction. In my case, with an older, less expensive vehicle, the mileage method actually worked out better than taking depreciation. Just wanted to throw that out there since everyone's situation is different!

0 coins

Zainab Omar

•

That's a really important distinction about the "placed in service" date vs purchase date - thanks for clarifying that! I think a lot of people get confused about which year to claim the depreciation in. Your point about comparing standard mileage vs actual expense method is spot on too. I made the mistake of assuming depreciation would always be better, but you're right that it totally depends on the vehicle value, how much you drive, and your specific situation. The standard mileage rate for 2025 can really add up if you're doing a lot of driving. Quick question - when you calculated both methods, did you factor in all the other actual expenses like gas, insurance, repairs, etc., or just the depreciation piece? I'm trying to figure out which method to use for my situation and want to make sure I'm comparing apples to apples.

0 coins

Melissa Lin

•

I've been following this thread closely as someone who went through a similar situation with extensive work travel. One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is the potential insurance implications of using your personal vehicle so heavily for business purposes. When I was driving 20,000+ miles annually for work, I discovered that my personal auto insurance might not fully cover me during business travel if I got into an accident. I had to contact my insurance company to add business use coverage, which increased my premium by about $400 annually - another cost my employer wasn't covering. Also, regarding the state tax deductions people have mentioned - while states like PA, NY, CA, and OH do allow these deductions, the documentation requirements are strict. The IRS and state tax agencies expect contemporaneous records, meaning you need to log your mileage when the trips happen, not reconstruct them months later from memory or credit card receipts. I'd strongly recommend Connor start tracking immediately using one of the GPS apps mentioned, and also have a conversation with his insurance agent to make sure he's properly covered for business use. The last thing you want is to discover coverage gaps after an accident during a work trip. The combination of proper documentation, understanding your true costs (including insurance), and knowing your state tax options gives you much stronger negotiating position with your employer.

0 coins

Raj Gupta

•

Great point about the insurance coverage, Melissa! I hadn't even thought about that aspect. As someone new to this community and dealing with a similar work travel situation, this thread has been incredibly eye-opening. I'm curious - when you added business use coverage to your policy, did your insurance company require any documentation from your employer about your work driving? I'm wondering if having that coverage might actually help when negotiating with employers, since it shows the legitimate business nature of the vehicle use. Also, for anyone tracking mileage, I've found that taking photos of my odometer at the beginning and end of work days provides additional backup documentation beyond just the GPS apps. It's old school but creates a visual record that's harder to dispute if you ever need to prove your mileage claims. The insurance angle really drives home how many hidden costs there are when using personal vehicles extensively for work. Between depreciation, accelerated maintenance, insurance increases, and potential coverage gaps, employees are really subsidizing their employers' operations without realizing it.

0 coins

As someone who's dealt with this exact situation, I want to emphasize how important it is to get ahead of this now before you put even more miles on your vehicle. Reading through all these responses, it's clear there are several angles you should pursue simultaneously: 1. **Start documenting immediately** - Don't wait another day. Download a GPS mileage tracking app (MileIQ, Everlance, or similar) and begin logging every work-related trip between sites. The contemporaneous record requirement for tax purposes is strict, and you can't recreate this data months later. 2. **Check your insurance coverage** - Contact your insurance agent about business use coverage. With 22k miles in just 6 months, you're likely underinsured for the amount of business driving you're doing. 3. **Calculate your true costs** - At 22k miles in 6 months, you're on track for 44,000 miles annually. That's nearly $30,000 in vehicle expenses at the IRS rate. Even if your employer covers $8,000 in gas, you're absorbing over $20,000 in costs. 4. **Research Pennsylvania state taxes** - As confirmed above, PA allows unreimbursed employee business expense deductions on your state return. You should definitely look into amending your 2023 return if you had significant work mileage. 5. **Prepare a comprehensive proposal** - Use all this data to request either proper mileage reimbursement under an accountable plan or a significant salary increase to offset these costs. Your "promotion" is currently costing you thousands annually. The key is having concrete numbers rather than just saying "I drive a lot for work." Document everything, know your rights, and present a professional business case to your employer.

0 coins

Prev1...649650651652653...5643Next