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CosmicCowboy

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About the rich people paying less taxes thing - it's not just retirement accounts. A big factor is that wage income (W-2) gets hit with both income tax AND payroll taxes (Social Security and Medicare). But once you hit the Social Security wage base ($168,600 in 2024), you stop paying the 6.2% Social Security tax on earnings above that amount. Also, higher-income folks often get more of their total compensation as stock options or capital gains, which are taxed at lower rates than regular income. Plus they can afford good CPAs who know all the legal strategies to minimize tax burden.

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So it's a combination of retirement account contributions, the Social Security tax cap, and different types of income being taxed differently? That makes sense. Do you know if there's a specific income level where making quarterly payments becomes mandatory for W-2 employees?

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CosmicCowboy

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You're absolutely right that it's a combination of all those factors working together. The Social Security tax cap is especially significant since that's a flat 6.2% savings on every dollar earned above the threshold. For W-2 employees, quarterly payments aren't typically required at all if your withholding is sufficient. There's no income level that automatically triggers quarterly payments - it's based on whether your withholding covers your tax liability. If you have substantial outside income or if you've set your W-2 withholding too low, that's when you might need to make estimated payments, regardless of your income level.

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Amina Diallo

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If you want exact info on quarterly payment requirements, IRS Publication 505 has all the details. I got hit with an underpayment penalty a few years ago because I didn't realize a large year-end bonus would push me over the threshold. Remember there are "safe harbor" provisions - you can avoid penalties by paying either 90% of current year tax OR 100% of last year's tax (110% if your AGI was over $150,000). The second option is often easier if your income fluctuates a lot.

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Thanks for mentioning Publication 505! Do you know if the quarterly payments have to be equal throughout the year or can they match your actual income if it's seasonal?

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The rules about gifts vs loans get even more complicated if you're dealing with different countries! My parents are in India and sent me money to buy a car here in the US, and I had to deal with both IRS gift rules AND international wire transfer reporting. If any of u have international family sending money, make sure you also look into FBAR requirements if the amounts are large enough.

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Miguel Diaz

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Oh god yes, international transfers are a nightmare! Did your parents have to pay any gift tax in India before sending it? Or is it just the US side that gets complicated?

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It was mostly the US side that was complicated. India doesn't have a gift tax anymore, but they do have restrictions on how much foreign currency can be sent out of the country each year. My parents had to declare the purpose of the funds when sending them. On the US side, I had to make sure the gift was properly documented since it was over $100k, which means it had to be reported on my tax return (there's a question about foreign gifts over $100k). Plus I needed to file an FBAR since I temporarily held the money in a foreign account before transferring it here. The paperwork was insane!

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This is such a common issue that catches so many families off guard! Based on what you've described, the IRS would likely view these transfers as gifts rather than loans since there's no formal documentation, repayment schedule, or interest being charged. Here's what I'd recommend: if you want to keep things as gifts, just make sure you stay under the annual exclusion limits ($17k per person in 2023). Since you mentioned amounts up to $25k, some of these might require filing Form 709, but you likely won't owe any actual tax due to the lifetime exemption. If you prefer to treat them as loans going forward, you'll need: 1) written loan agreements, 2) a repayment schedule, 3) interest at least equal to the current Applicable Federal Rate (around 4-5% right now), and 4) actual documented payments. Without these elements, the IRS will assume they're gifts during any review. One thing to watch out for - even if you never get audited, having clear documentation protects you if either of you passes away unexpectedly. Estate reviews often scrutinize large transfers between family members, and you don't want the IRS adding these amounts back into the estate calculation.

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This is really helpful advice! One thing I'm still confused about though - if we decide to formalize these as loans going forward, what happens to all the money we've already exchanged without documentation? Should we try to create retroactive loan agreements for those amounts, or just treat them as gifts and move forward with proper documentation for new transfers? Also, when you mention the Applicable Federal Rate being around 4-5%, does that mean we'd actually have to charge each other real interest and pay taxes on that interest income? That seems to complicate things a lot more than just keeping everything as gifts under the annual limits.

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Sean Kelly

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Great question! For the money already exchanged, I wouldn't try to create retroactive loan agreements - the IRS generally looks at the intent and documentation at the time of the transaction. Those past transfers would likely be treated as gifts, so you'd want to make sure you haven't exceeded the annual exclusion limits in any given year. If you have, you might need to file Form 709 for those years, but again, likely no actual tax owed. And yes, if you formalize loans going forward, you would need to charge real interest and the lender would pay income tax on that interest. That's why many families just stick with the gift route and keep transfers under the annual limits - it's much simpler administratively. You could also do a combination: smaller regular amounts as gifts, and only formalize larger one-time transfers as loans if they exceed what you're comfortable gifting. The key is being consistent with whichever approach you choose, because the IRS looks at the overall pattern of behavior between family members.

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Ellie Lopez

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Something nobody's mentioned yet - don't forget the potential impact of your state taxes! Federal might be 0% for long-term gains in certain brackets, but many states still tax capital gains as ordinary income. For example, in my state (California), even if my kid pays 0% federal tax on his UTMA gains, he'll still owe CA state tax at ordinary income rates. This changes the math considerably.

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Good point! I'm in a no income tax state (Texas) so sometimes I forget about this. How much does California take from capital gains? Is it really enough to change the strategy?

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Ellie Lopez

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California's tax rates start at 1% and go up to 13.3% depending on income level. Even at the lowest income levels, you're looking at a few percent. For a substantial UTMA account, this can definitely impact the math. For example, if your child realizes $50,000 in gains at age 18 and has no other income, they might pay 0% federal but could still owe over $1,500 in California state tax. Spreading those gains over multiple years could potentially keep them in lower state tax brackets each year, depending on the specific amounts and brackets.

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Yara Elias

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This is such a helpful thread! I'm dealing with a similar situation with my 8-year-old's UTMA account. After reading all these responses, I'm realizing I need to completely rethink my approach. I've been doing the same gain harvesting strategy as Jessica, but now I'm understanding that between the kiddie tax threshold, potential financial aid implications, and the compounding effect of keeping money invested, I'm probably shooting myself in the foot. The state tax angle is particularly eye-opening - I'm in New York where we definitely have capital gains taxes, so even the "0% federal" scenario isn't truly tax-free for us. One question I haven't seen addressed: for those who switched from annual harvesting to a buy-and-hold strategy, did you have any issues with the cost basis tracking? I'm worried about having a messy mix of different purchase dates and basis amounts when it comes time to eventually sell everything.

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Great question about cost basis tracking! When I switched from harvesting to buy-and-hold, I was worried about the same thing. But honestly, most brokerages handle this pretty well automatically now. The key is making sure you keep good records of all your previous sales/repurchases. Each lot will have its own cost basis and purchase date, but when it comes time to sell, you can usually choose which lots to sell first (FIFO, LIFO, or specific identification). If you're planning to hold until your daughter is 18+, those earlier repurchases will likely qualify for long-term capital gains treatment anyway since they'll be over a year old. The messiness is really just a record-keeping issue rather than a tax calculation problem. I'd recommend taking a screenshot of your current cost basis summary before you stop harvesting, just so you have a clean record of where things stand when you changed strategies.

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Rajiv Kumar

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Just wanted to add one more important point that I learned the hard way - make sure you keep detailed records of all the support you're providing to your parents throughout the year. The IRS support test requires that you provide more than 50% of their total support, and if you're ever audited, you'll need to prove this with documentation. I track everything in a simple spreadsheet: rent/housing costs I pay for them, utilities, food, medical expenses, clothing, etc. Then I compare that to what they contribute from their Social Security and any other sources. It's tedious but worth it for peace of mind, especially since the support test is one of the main requirements that gets scrutinized. Also, if you have siblings who also help support your parents, make sure you're the one providing MORE than 50% - not just that all siblings combined provide more than your parents provide for themselves. Only one person can claim them as dependents, so if multiple people are contributing, you need to be the primary supporter.

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LunarEclipse

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This is excellent advice about keeping detailed records! I wish I had known this when I first started claiming my mom as a dependent. I had to scramble to reconstruct all my support payments when questions came up later. One thing I'd add is to save receipts for everything - even small purchases like groceries or pharmacy items for your parents. Those seemingly minor expenses can add up significantly over the year and help demonstrate the full scope of support you're providing. I use a simple folder system where I keep all parent-related receipts separate from my own expenses. Also, for anyone wondering about what counts as "support" - it includes obvious things like housing, food, and medical care, but also less obvious items like clothing, transportation costs for their appointments, and even entertainment or personal care items you buy for them. The broader you can document your support, the stronger your case for meeting that 50% threshold.

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Amina Toure

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This is such a helpful thread! I'm in a very similar situation with my elderly mother who receives Social Security. One thing I discovered that might be useful for others is to double-check if your parents need to file their own tax return even if you're claiming them as dependents. Even though my mom's Social Security income wasn't taxable (using that calculation someone mentioned earlier), she still needed to file because she had a small amount of interest income from a savings account that pushed her over the filing threshold when combined with the Social Security. The good news is that her filing her own return didn't prevent me from claiming her as my dependent - these are two separate issues. Also, if your parents are receiving any state benefits or assistance, claiming them as dependents generally won't affect their eligibility for programs like Medicaid or food assistance, but it's worth double-checking with the specific programs in your state just to be safe. The recordkeeping advice from Rajiv is spot-on. I started using a simple app to photograph receipts right when I make purchases for my mom, which makes tax time so much easier!

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Luca Ferrari

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Thank you for bringing up the point about parents potentially needing to file their own returns! This is something I didn't realize when I first started helping with my parents' taxes. Even if you claim them as dependents, they might still have a filing requirement based on their own income thresholds. I'm curious about the app you mentioned for photographing receipts - would you mind sharing which one you use? I'm still doing the old-fashioned folder method but I keep losing receipts or forgetting to save them. Having everything digital would probably make my life a lot easier, especially since I'm supporting both parents and the paperwork adds up quickly. Also, great point about state benefits! I was worried that claiming my dad as a dependent might affect his Medicare eligibility, but you're right that these are separate systems. It's always worth checking though since every state handles things differently.

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Grant Vikers

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This is really helpful information from everyone! I had no idea about the first-time penalty abatement - that sounds like exactly what I need to try for my $29 penalty. @Teresa Boyd - when you called the IRS about this, did you need any specific documentation or did they just look up your history automatically? I'm definitely going to give this a shot before just paying the penalty. Also appreciate the heads up about checking state penalties too. I'm in Texas so no state income tax here, but that's definitely something others should watch out for. It's frustrating that TurboTax doesn't mention any of these options when the penalty shows up. You'd think they'd at least tell you about the first-time abatement possibility instead of just making you feel like you have to pay it.

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@Grant Vikers No specific documentation needed when I called! The IRS agent was able to pull up my entire filing history right away and confirm I qualified for the first-time penalty abatement. The whole call took maybe 10 minutes - she just asked for my SSN and confirmed my identity, then reviewed my compliance history for the past 3 years. The key is to specifically ask for first-time "penalty abatement by" name when you call. Don t'just ask them to waive the penalty - use those exact words because it s'an official program they have. Some agents might not mention it unless you ask directly. You re'absolutely right that TurboTax should mention this option! It would save people a lot of money and stress. But I guess they re'focused on getting you through the filing process rather than helping with penalty appeals after the fact.

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Hattie Carson

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I'm going through something similar and this thread has been incredibly helpful! I had a $47 underpayment penalty show up in TurboTax and was equally frustrated about paying for software that didn't prevent this. After reading everyone's advice, I'm definitely going to try calling the IRS about the first-time penalty abatement. My situation sounds exactly like @Nolan Carter's - just regular W-2 income, never had penalties before, and TurboTax never warned me this could happen. One thing I'm curious about - for those who successfully got the penalty removed, how long did it take for the IRS to actually process the abatement? I want to make sure I don't accidentally pay the penalty while waiting for their decision. Also, has anyone tried updating their W-4 withholding mid-year to prevent this from happening again? I'm wondering if I should increase my withholding now for 2025 or wait until I talk to the IRS agent.

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Emma Olsen

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@Hattie Carson Great question about timing! When I got my first-time penalty abatement approved, the IRS agent told me right on the call that it was approved and gave me a confirmation number. She said the system would be updated within 2-3 business days, so there s'no risk of accidentally paying while waiting. For the W-4 adjustment, I d'definitely recommend doing it sooner rather than later! The IRS agent actually walked me through this too. You want to get more withheld from each paycheck starting now so you re'covered for the full year. If you wait until later in the year, you d'need even bigger withholding increases to make up for the missed months. The IRS has a withholding calculator on their website irs.gov (that) s'really helpful for figuring out exactly how much extra to withhold. I used it and increased my withholding by about $50 per paycheck, which should easily prevent this issue next year. Better safe than sorry!

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