IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.



Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

Read all of our Trustpilot reviews


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

Lydia Bailey

•

2 Does anyone know if you need to submit proof of expenses to your HSA administrator when you reimburse yourself? My HSA is through HealthEquity and their website just lets me request distributions without uploading any documentation.

0 coins

Lydia Bailey

•

16 You typically don't need to submit proof to your HSA administrator. Most let you take distributions without verification. BUT you absolutely need to keep all those receipts and documentation for the IRS in case of an audit. The HSA administrator isn't responsible for verifying eligible expenses - that's between you and the IRS.

0 coins

Great question! You're absolutely on the right track with your HSA strategy. Since you established your HSA on October 15th, any qualified medical expenses from that date forward are eligible for reimbursement - which means your November procedure definitely qualifies. You can contribute up to the 2025 maximum ($4,300 for individual coverage, or $8,550 for family coverage if you're 55+) regardless of when during the year you opened the account, thanks to the "last-month rule." Just make sure you maintain your high-deductible health plan through December 2026 to avoid any penalties. Your reimbursement strategy is spot-on too. You can reimburse yourself the current $1,300 now and the remaining $3,000 later as you build up the account. There's no deadline for HSA reimbursements as long as the expense occurred after your HSA was established. Just keep detailed records of all receipts and documentation - the IRS doesn't require you to submit these with your taxes, but you'll need them if audited. One pro tip: if you can afford to leave some money in the HSA to grow, consider only reimbursing what you absolutely need now. HSAs can be great long-term investment vehicles since the money grows tax-free and withdrawals for qualified expenses are always tax-free, even decades later!

0 coins

Thais Soares

•

This is really helpful information! I'm new to HSAs and had no idea about the "last-month rule" - that's a game changer for maximizing contributions. Quick question: when you mention maintaining the high-deductible health plan through December 2026, does that mean if I switch jobs and my new employer has a different health plan, I could face penalties on my HSA contributions?

0 coins

Isaac Wright

•

Don't overthink this! I've been managing 8 rental units for 12 years. Just get a accordion folder with 12 sections (one for each month), staple receipts to a piece of paper noting which property and what category (repair, improvement, etc), and drop in the right month. Then create a simple spreadsheet summarizing everything by property. My CPA loves this system because she can quickly find any receipt she needs to verify. The key is staying on top of it monthly rather than letting it pile up. Apps are fine but sometimes simple physical systems work better if you're consistent with them.

0 coins

Lucy Taylor

•

This is basically what I do and it works great. I would add that you should write on each receipt which property it was for IMMEDIATELY after purchase. So many times I've found random Home Depot receipts and couldn't remember which property they were for!

0 coins

Diego Chavez

•

Great advice here! I'm dealing with the same issue with my two rental properties. One thing I learned the hard way - make sure to separate personal Home Depot runs from rental property expenses. I had receipts mixed together and it was a nightmare trying to figure out what was for my own house vs the rentals. Also, if you're doing any work yourself, don't forget to track mileage between properties and to/from the hardware store. Those trips add up over the year and are deductible. I use a simple mileage log app on my phone and just hit start/stop when I'm driving for rental business. The monthly organization system mentioned above is solid - I do something similar but use a binder with sheet protectors instead of an accordion folder. Makes it easy to flip through everything when tax time comes around.

0 coins

AstroAce

•

The mileage tracking tip is huge! I never thought about tracking trips to Home Depot and between properties but you're absolutely right that it adds up. Do you track personal errands too if you stop by a rental property on the way? Like if I'm going to the grocery store but swing by one of my units to check on something - can I deduct that whole trip or just the portion related to the rental?

0 coins

Ellie Perry

•

I've had Discover for tax refunds for about 5 years now and honestly the timing is super unpredictable. Sometimes I get lucky with 1-2 days early, other times it hits exactly on the DDD. What I've noticed is that Tuesday DDDs have a better chance of coming Monday night since banks usually process over the weekend. The key thing is don't panic if Discover says they don't see anything pending - they often don't show deposits as pending until just hours before they actually post. I usually see mine hit anywhere between 11PM and 4AM when it does come early. Set up those deposit notifications and try to resist the urge to check every hour (trust me, I've been there!). The money will come, just hang in there!

0 coins

This is really reassuring to hear from someone with 5 years of experience! The unpredictability is definitely frustrating but it sounds like Tuesday DDDs do have decent odds for Monday night deposits. I'm going to try my best not to obsess over checking constantly - though knowing myself I'll probably still peek a few times šŸ˜… Thanks for the realistic expectations and the encouragement!

0 coins

Malik Thomas

•

I've been using Discover for my tax refunds for about 3 years now and the timing has been pretty inconsistent. Year 1: came 2 days early at around midnight. Year 2: hit exactly on my DDD at like 5am. Year 3: came 1 day early around 10pm. What I've learned is that Tuesday DDDs seem to have the best chance of hitting Monday night since the IRS usually sends the ACH files to banks on Friday, giving them the weekend to process. Discover typically posts deposits between midnight and 6am, so I'd start checking Sunday night just in case, but Monday night is when I'd really expect it if it's coming early. The fact that they don't see anything pending yet is totally normal - Discover rarely shows pending deposits until the day they're going to post, sometimes just hours before. Don't stress about that part! I'd definitely recommend setting up push notifications for deposits in your Discover app so you don't have to constantly check manually. The waiting game is brutal but hang in there - your refund will come! šŸ¤ž

0 coins

This is exactly the kind of detailed info I was hoping for! Thanks for breaking down your 3-year experience with Discover - it really helps to see the pattern even if it's inconsistent. The Friday ACH file timing makes total sense for why Tuesday DDDs might hit Monday night. I just set up those push notifications you mentioned, can't believe I didn't think of that sooner! Now I just need to practice some patience and stop refreshing my account every 10 minutes šŸ˜… Really appreciate you taking the time to share all this - gives me hope that Monday night might bring some good news!

0 coins

Lindsey Fry

•

I moved from New York to Florida back in October and was in the exact same situation - still had my NY license when tax season rolled around. Here's what I learned from my experience: For federal taxes, your driver's license really is just for identity verification. I e-filed with my NY license and Florida address without any issues. The IRS doesn't care which state issued your ID as long as it's valid. Since you moved to Colorado (which has state income tax), you'll need to file a part-year resident return there. The good news is that Colorado's e-filing system never asked for my license number when I helped my friend who moved there around the same time. They care more about proving when you established residency and what income you earned in each state. One tip that saved me headaches: gather your documentation now - lease agreement, utility setup dates, job start date in Colorado, etc. Having a clear timeline of when you established Colorado residency is way more important than having an updated license for tax purposes. That said, definitely prioritize getting your Colorado license soon for all the non-tax reasons people have mentioned. But for filing your taxes? You're totally fine to proceed with your California license as long as your current Colorado address is consistent throughout your returns.

0 coins

Dylan Evans

•

This is such a comprehensive overview - thank you! I'm in almost exactly the same situation (moved from CA to CO in February, still have CA license). Your point about gathering residency documentation is really smart. I have my lease and utility setup dates, but I hadn't thought about documenting my job situation clearly. I've been working remotely for the same company, so I should probably get something in writing about when I officially changed my work location for tax purposes. It's such a relief to hear from someone who helped a friend through the Colorado process specifically. The fact that their e-filing system didn't ask for license details makes this whole situation feel much more manageable. I was imagining all kinds of verification roadblocks that apparently don't exist! I think I'll follow your advice and focus on getting my residency timeline documented properly, then tackle the license update after I get my taxes filed. Thanks for sharing such detailed, practical advice!

0 coins

NeonNinja

•

I went through this exact situation when I moved from Massachusetts to North Carolina last March! Like many others have mentioned, the federal filing was no problem at all with my MA license - the IRS really does just use it for identity verification. For North Carolina state taxes, I was initially worried about the same thing, but it turned out their online system was pretty straightforward. They never asked for my license number during e-filing, just focused on establishing my residency timeline and part-year income allocation. One thing I'd add that might be helpful - if you're using tax prep software like H&R Block or TaxAct, some of them will prompt you about the address mismatch between your license and current address, but it's usually just a verification step. You can typically continue the filing process by confirming your current address is correct. The bigger pain point for me was actually dealing with two state returns (final MA return and new NC resident return), but that's unavoidable regardless of your license status. Having moved from California to Colorado, you'll be in the same boat with dual state filings. Definitely echo what everyone else is saying about getting your Colorado license updated soon for the insurance and legal reasons, but don't let it stress you out about tax filing. The systems are designed to handle interstate moves smoothly!

0 coins

This is exactly what I needed to hear! I'm also dealing with the dual state filing situation (CA to CO) and was dreading the complexity, but hearing that the systems handle interstate moves smoothly is really reassuring. Your point about tax software prompting for address verification but letting you continue is super helpful - I was worried those prompts might actually block the filing process. The MA to NC move sounds very similar to my situation timeline-wise. Did you run into any specific issues with the part-year income allocation between states? That's the part I'm most confused about since I've been working remotely for the same company throughout the move. I'm not sure how to properly split my income between California (January-February) and Colorado (March-December) when my employer and paycheck haven't changed. Thanks for sharing your experience - it's amazing how much clearer this all becomes when you hear from people who've actually been through the process!

0 coins

Yara Elias

•

The income allocation for remote work during a mid-year move can definitely be tricky! When I dealt with my MA to NC situation, I had to allocate income based on where I was physically located while earning it, not where my employer was based. So for your situation, you'd typically report January-February income to California (as a departing resident) and March-December income to Colorado (as a new resident). Most tax software will walk you through this with a timeline-based allocation. You'll need to know your exact move date and then prorate your annual income accordingly. Since you were working remotely the whole time for the same employer, the split should be relatively straightforward - just make sure you have documentation of when you physically relocated to Colorado. One heads up: California can be particularly thorough about ensuring departing residents properly report their income, so keep good records of your move timeline. But the good news is that most states have reciprocity agreements that prevent double taxation on the same income.

0 coins

Understanding Wash Sale Loss Disallowed on Brokerage 1099 - Can I Still Claim These Losses?

I'm really confused about my tax situation with some disallowed wash sales. My brokerage sent me a 1099 showing about $40k in disallowed wash sales from last year. I've been doing a ton of research and watching YouTube videos about this, and everything I read suggested that as long as I closed all my positions before the end of the 2024 tax year, those losses should still be deductible against my gains. When I talked to my tax preparer about this, he's insisting that these wash sale losses aren't tax deductible at all. I tried explaining my understanding with an example: "If I bought Stock XYZ for $12,000, sold at $19,000, then bought back at $19,000, and finally sold at $6,000 before year-end - shouldn't I only be taxed on the net result? I made $7,000 on the first trade but lost $13,000 on the second trade, for a net loss of $6,000. It feels like my preparer wants to tax me on the $7,000 gain while ignoring my $13,000 loss, which doesn't seem right." His response was: "Your example doesn't apply to your situation. You sold positions at a loss and then rebought the same stocks/options within 30 days or less. This creates wash sale losses which aren't tax deductible. Your brokerage account likely uses first-in-first-out accounting. If you had waited more than 30 days before repurchasing the same investments, your losses would be tax deductible." Can someone please help me understand if I'm completely misinterpreting how wash sales work? Did I reach the wrong conclusion in my research, or am I misunderstanding what my tax preparer is telling me? I thought wash sale losses were just delayed until you completely exit the position, not permanently disallowed.

Can I just say how frustrating it is that most tax preparers don't understand trading scenarios? I had a similar situation with wash sales and my CPA kept giving me wrong information. Had to educate myself and basically explain it to him. The IRS rules aren't even that complicated once you understand the principle - wash sale losses aren't disallowed forever, they're just deferred by adjusting the basis of replacement shares.

0 coins

The real problem is that there are many CPAs who don't specialize in investment taxation but still take on clients with complex trading situations. I specifically sought out a CPA who works with active traders, and the difference in knowledge was night and day.

0 coins

Sarah Jones

•

This is exactly why I switched from my general CPA to someone who specializes in trader taxation. The difference in understanding was incredible - my new preparer immediately knew that wash sales defer losses rather than eliminate them permanently. One thing that helped me verify my understanding was looking at my 1099-B more carefully. In Box 1d, if there's a "W" code, that indicates wash sale adjustments were made. But the key is looking at the summary totals - your broker has already calculated your net gains/losses after all wash sale adjustments. Your tax preparer should be using those final adjusted numbers, not trying to manually disallow wash sale losses again. If he's doing that, he's essentially double-counting the wash sale penalty, which would be incorrect. I'd recommend getting a second opinion from a CPA who specializes in securities transactions. The rules really aren't that complex once someone explains them properly, but unfortunately many general tax preparers just don't encounter these situations often enough to understand the nuances.

0 coins

Luca Greco

•

This is really helpful advice about finding a CPA who specializes in trader taxation. As someone new to more complex trading scenarios, I'm realizing how important it is to work with someone who actually understands these situations rather than trying to figure it out with a general practitioner. The point about the 1099-B Box 1d "W" code is something I hadn't heard before - that's a great tip for identifying when wash sale adjustments have been made. It sounds like the key takeaway is that if you closed all your positions before year-end, the wash sale losses should already be properly reflected in your broker's calculations, and your tax preparer shouldn't be trying to disallow them again. I'm definitely going to look for a specialist for next year's taxes. Do you have any recommendations for how to find CPAs who specifically work with active traders? Are there particular credentials or certifications I should look for?

0 coins

Prev1...624625626627628...5645Next