This is exactly the kind of predatory practice that makes dealing with taxes even more stressful than it already is! It's outrageous that TurboTax can essentially hold your own tax data hostage behind a paywall. I've been in a similar situation before and here's what worked for me: First, definitely try the IRS transcript route that others have mentioned - it's free and has all the information you need. But if you want something that looks more like your original return format, I've had good luck with some of the third-party tools mentioned here. The key thing for future years is to ALWAYS save a PDF copy of your complete return before you finish filing. Most tax software will let you export to PDF, and some even automatically email you a copy. I now save mine in three places: local computer, cloud storage, and email myself a copy. Never again will I be at the mercy of proprietary file formats! It's honestly shameful that tax software companies can get away with this kind of lock-in strategy, especially when they're dealing with people's essential financial records.

This whole situation is a perfect example of why I've switched to using open-source tax software whenever possible. Tools like FreeTaxUSA or even the IRS's own Free File Fillable Forms don't lock you into proprietary file formats that become inaccessible later. For your immediate problem, I'd definitely echo what others have said about the IRS transcript route - it's your most reliable option for getting the 2020 data you need. The format takes a little getting used to, but it has all the essential information including itemized deductions. One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is that some public libraries offer free access to tax preparation software, including TurboTax desktop versions. You might be able to open your TAX2020 file there if you really need to see it in the original format. Call your local library's reference desk to ask if they have tax software available during tax season. Going forward, I'd strongly recommend switching away from TurboTax entirely. Their business model is increasingly focused on creating these kinds of lock-in situations and upselling users. There are plenty of alternatives that won't hold your own tax data hostage!

Has anyone tried calling the IRS directly about this? I've been getting rejected for a similar issue and every tax preparer I talk to gives me different answers!

I work as a tax preparer and can confirm what others have said - the IRS definitely tightened their validation systems starting with 2023 tax year returns. What worked before may not work now because the automated checks are more sophisticated. For your specific situation, the rule is clear: only the parent claiming the child as a dependent can claim the Child and Dependent Care Credit. This is stated in IRS Publication 503. The fact that your ex pays for daycare doesn't change who's eligible to claim the credit. Your best options are: 1) You claim both the Child Tax Credit and Child Care Credit, then work out the financial arrangement privately with your ex, or 2) If you have multiple children, split them so each parent claims one child as dependent along with that child's care expenses, or 3) Your ex could claim the child as dependent (you'd need to sign Form 8332) and then he could claim both credits. The reason you're getting different answers from preparers is that some may not be up to date on how strictly these rules are now being enforced by the IRS systems.

This is a great question and totally understandable confusion! As others have mentioned, the difference between Box 1 and Box 5 is usually due to pre-tax deductions. Since you mentioned this is the first year you've seen this difference, it sounds like you may have started or increased contributions to things like a 401(k), health insurance, or flexible spending account. To verify everything is correct, I'd recommend checking your final paystub from December 2024. Look for any "pre-tax" deductions and add them up - that total should roughly match the $5,800 difference between your boxes. Common culprits are: - Traditional 401(k) contributions (very common if you got a raise and decided to save more) - Health/dental/vision insurance premiums - Flexible Spending Account (FSA) or Health Savings Account (HSA) contributions - Dependent care assistance If the math doesn't add up or you can't find deductions that explain the difference, then it would be worth contacting HR. But in most cases, this difference is completely normal and actually beneficial since those pre-tax deductions reduce your federal income tax liability!

I just wanted to add that this exact scenario happened to me two years ago when I started contributing to an HSA for the first time. The $3,000 annual HSA contribution I made showed up as the difference between Box 1 and Box 5, and I panicked thinking my employer made an error. What helped me understand it was realizing that HSA contributions are "triple tax advantaged" - they reduce your federal income tax (hence lower Box 1), but you still pay Medicare tax on that income (hence it stays in Box 5). Same principle applies to traditional 401(k) contributions and most other pre-tax benefits. If you started any new benefits this year or increased existing contributions, that's almost certainly what you're seeing. The good news is this difference typically means you're saving money on your federal taxes! Just double-check your final paystub to make sure the pre-tax deductions add up to roughly that $5,800 difference.

This thread has been absolutely amazing to read through! I was literally in the same exact boat just a few months ago when I started my current job - single, no dependents, and completely overwhelmed by all the conflicting advice online about claiming 0 vs 1 allowances. Had no clue they completely overhauled the W-4 system in 2020! Like everyone else has mentioned, for your situation you really just need to check "Single or Married filing separately" in Step 1, fill out your basic info, and sign in Step 5 - that's literally it. I ended up with a $44 refund last year which felt perfect, and seeing everyone else's similar experiences here (all those small refunds between $30-70 or owing tiny amounts) really shows the new system is working exactly as the IRS intended. Don't stress about it - the standard withholding approach will serve you perfectly! It's so refreshing to see a thread with this many helpful real-world examples instead of just theoretical advice.

This thread has been incredibly informative! I'm actually an IRS employee and wanted to confirm that everyone here is giving excellent advice. The 2020 W-4 redesign was specifically created to eliminate the confusion around allowances that you're experiencing. For single filers with one job and no dependents, the standard withholding (just checking "Single" in Step 1 and signing) is designed to get you within $100 of your actual tax liability in most cases. The new form uses more precise calculations based on your filing status and pay frequency. If you want to be extra cautious, you can use the official IRS Tax Withholding Estimator at irs.gov/W4App, but honestly for your straightforward situation, the standard approach should work perfectly!

Bit of a tangent, but what gambling log app do people recommend? I've been using a paper notebook which is getting unwieldy. Is there a good mobile app that lets you log sessions and wins/losses on the go?

This is exactly why I always recommend keeping contemporaneous notes while gambling! The key thing to remember is that your gambling log should reflect the actual time you were gambling, not when the casino's "gaming day" officially ends. Here's what I do: I note the actual calendar date and time when I start and stop gambling, regardless of what the casino considers their "gaming day." If I'm playing at 2am on February 15th, that's what goes in my log as February 15th activity. When I get a W-2G that shows February 14th for that same jackpot, I make a note in my log like "W-2G dated 2/14 due to casino gaming day policy" next to the February 15th entry. This creates a clear audit trail. The IRS has been pretty consistent that they want to see gambling activity tracked by actual calendar days, not casino accounting periods. Your approach of wanting to stay organized by calendar days is correct - just make sure you have those reconciliation notes to explain any date discrepancies on your tax forms.