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Great question! I went through this same situation a couple years ago. You absolutely can split the mortgage interest deduction when filing separately, but documentation is key. Since you're paying from a joint account that you both contribute to equally, a 50/50 split should be fine. Just make sure you keep good records showing your equal contributions to that joint account - bank statements, pay stubs, etc. The IRS wants to see that you can substantiate your portion of the payments. Also keep in mind that even though the Form 1098 might only show one of your names, you can both claim your respective portions as long as you can prove you both paid. One tip: consider using tax software that can handle MFS situations properly, or at least double-check your work. The interaction between splitting deductions and the requirement that both spouses must itemize if one does can get tricky to navigate correctly.
This is really helpful advice! I'm curious about the documentation aspect you mentioned. Do you think it's enough to just have bank statements showing we both deposit equal amounts into the joint account, or should we be tracking something more specific? We've been married for years and have always just pooled everything together, so we don't really have separate records of who "owns" which portion of our income. Would the IRS expect us to retroactively figure out some kind of allocation method?
Bank statements showing equal deposits should generally be sufficient documentation for the IRS. You don't need to retroactively create complex allocation methods if you've been pooling income equally throughout your marriage. The key is being able to demonstrate a reasonable basis for your 50/50 split. What matters most is that you can show both spouses contributed to the joint account that paid the mortgage, and that the split you're claiming reflects your actual economic contribution. If you've both been depositing paychecks into the joint account regularly and in roughly equal amounts, that creates a clear trail supporting equal responsibility for the mortgage payments. Keep those bank statements, and maybe a simple summary showing your respective contribution patterns. The IRS generally accepts reasonable allocations when spouses can demonstrate they both participated in paying the expense. Your longstanding pattern of equal contributions actually strengthens your position rather than weakening it.
This is exactly the situation my husband and I were in last year! We also pay from a joint account and were really worried about getting it wrong. After doing a ton of research, we ended up splitting our mortgage interest 50/50 on our separate returns since we contribute equally to the joint account. One thing I'd definitely recommend is running the numbers both ways (joint vs separate filing) before you commit to MFS. We almost lost money overall because of all the credits and deductions you can't take when filing separately. In our case, filing separately only made sense because of some specific income-based student loan considerations. Also, keep really good records! We created a simple spreadsheet showing our deposits to the joint account throughout the year, just in case. The IRS never questioned it, but having that documentation gave us peace of mind. Your accountant's advice sounds right to me - splitting based on actual contribution is the correct approach.
Thanks for sharing your experience! It's really reassuring to hear from someone who actually went through this. I'm curious about the student loan consideration you mentioned - we're in a similar boat where one of us has income-driven repayment plans. Did filing separately actually help with qualifying for lower payments, or were there other complications that made it not worth it in the end? We're trying to weigh all the factors before deciding, and the student loan piece is a big part of our calculation too.
Yes, filing separately definitely helped us with the student loan payments! My husband's income-driven repayment plan only considered his income instead of our combined income, which dropped his monthly payments significantly. The savings on loan payments more than made up for the lost tax benefits in our case. However, you really need to run the numbers carefully. We used a spreadsheet to compare the total financial impact - tax liability difference plus student loan payment difference for the whole year. Don't forget to factor in things like losing the American Opportunity Credit, earned income credit eligibility, and the student loan interest deduction itself when filing separately. Also heads up - if you do decide to go the MFS route for student loan reasons, make sure to coordinate with your loan servicer about when to recertify your income. The timing can matter a lot for maximizing the benefit.
Has anyone used TurboTax for this? Do they handle HSA excess contributions properly? I'm in a similar situation with about $45 in excess contributions.
I used TurboTax last year for a similar issue. It does handle Form 8889 and Form 5329, but the interview process wasn't very clear for excess HSA contributions. I actually had to manually override some entries to get it right. If your situation is straightforward, it should work, but for anything complex, I found their guidance lacking.
I went through something very similar last year with multiple HSA accounts due to employer changes. For your $16 excess, you're absolutely making the right call to just pay the 6% tax - it's only going to cost you about $0.96. One thing to keep in mind: if you don't correct the excess contribution, you'll technically owe that 6% tax each year until the excess is removed. However, given how small the amount is, even paying it for several years would cost less than the time and hassle of trying to coordinate distributions from closed HSA accounts. For future reference, if you ever have a larger excess contribution, you can also "absorb" it by contributing less than your annual limit in a subsequent year. The excess essentially gets offset against your unused contribution room. But again, for $16, just paying the tax is definitely the path of least resistance. Make sure to keep good records of this excess contribution and the tax payments in case the IRS ever asks about it down the road.
This is really helpful advice! I'm dealing with a similar situation but with a $28 excess contribution from when I changed jobs mid-year. The "absorbing" it in future years by under-contributing is something I hadn't heard of before - that sounds much simpler than trying to get distributions from my old HSA provider. Just to make sure I understand correctly - if my annual HSA limit next year is $4,300 and I only contribute $4,272, that would effectively "use up" my $28 excess from this year? And I wouldn't owe the 6% tax going forward? Also, do you know if there's any special reporting required when you offset an excess this way, or does it just naturally work out on Form 8889?
I've been through a similar situation with high-volume trading and can share some practical insights. With 5,000+ trades, you definitely meet the frequency requirement, but the IRS also looks at whether trading is your primary income source and if you're conducting it like a business (regular hours, dedicated workspace, etc.). A few key points from my experience: **Mark to Market Election**: This is the game-changer for your capital loss limitation problem. With MTM, all your gains and losses become ordinary income/losses, eliminating the $3,000 annual cap. However, you lose preferential capital gains rates on everything. **Employment Concerns**: Trader status is just a tax classification and wouldn't automatically be visible to employers. However, if you're concerned about conflicts of interest, document that you never trade your employer's stock and maintain clear separation between your employment and trading activities. **Documentation**: Start keeping detailed records now - trading journal, time spent, equipment used, educational materials purchased. The IRS wants to see this is a business activity, not just investing. **Professional Help**: Given the complexity and your volume, I'd recommend finding a CPA who specializes in trader taxes rather than H&R Block. Yes, it costs more upfront ($1,000-2,000), but the potential tax savings and audit protection are worth it. **State Considerations**: Since you're in Texas, you avoid most state complications, but keep this in mind if you ever relocate. The math generally works in your favor with your volume, but get professional guidance before making the election - it's largely irrevocable.
This is incredibly helpful, thank you for sharing your real-world experience! A couple of follow-up questions: When you mention "regular hours" and "dedicated workspace" - how strict is the IRS about this? I do most of my trading during market hours but don't have a separate office space, just a corner of my living room with my computer setup. Would that be sufficient documentation? Also, regarding the "largely irrevocable" nature of the MTM election - what would constitute grounds for the IRS to allow revocation if circumstances changed (like if I significantly reduced my trading volume or changed jobs to something that made continued trading problematic)? Finally, do you have any recommendations for finding CPAs who specialize in trader taxes? Is there a particular certification or association I should look for?
Great questions! Let me address each from my experience: **Workspace Requirements**: The IRS isn't looking for a separate office - a dedicated corner with your trading setup is perfectly adequate. What matters more is that you can show this space is regularly and exclusively used for trading. Take photos, keep receipts for equipment, and document that this area is your "trading desk." I use a corner of my bedroom and it's never been an issue. **MTM Revocation**: The IRS rarely allows revocation, but grounds typically include significant changes in circumstances like: ceasing to be a trader entirely (not just reducing volume), material changes in the nature of your business, or if the election was made in error due to incorrect advice. Simply changing jobs usually wouldn't qualify unless the new job legally prohibited trading activities. **Finding Specialist CPAs**: Look for CPAs who are members of the National Association of Tax Professionals (NATP) or American Institute of CPAs (AICPA) with specific securities/trader experience. I found mine through the AICPA's directory by searching for "securities trader" specialization. Also check if they've published articles on trader taxation or speak at trading conferences - that's usually a good sign they truly specialize rather than just claiming to. You can also ask potential CPAs specific questions about Section 475(f) elections and wash sale calculations. If they can't immediately discuss the nuances, keep looking. One more tip: Start documenting your trading business activities now, even before making any elections. Time spent analyzing markets, educational expenses, trading-related subscriptions - all of this supports your case for business treatment.
I've been following this discussion with great interest as I'm in a somewhat similar situation with around 2,800 trades this year. One aspect that hasn't been fully addressed is the timing of making the MTM election if you decide to go that route. From what I've researched, if you want MTM to apply to your 2024 taxes (filing in 2025), you need to make that election by the original due date of your 2024 return (April 15, 2025) - no extensions allowed. This means you have a relatively short window to decide and get the paperwork filed correctly. Given that we're already well into 2024, you might want to focus on whether MTM makes sense for your 2025 tax year instead, which would give you more time to properly document your trading business activities and consult with a qualified CPA. Also, regarding your concern about H&R Block's hourly charges - many specialized tax pros who handle trader status actually offer flat fees for this type of work since they're experienced with the volume. The $500-1,000 range mentioned earlier is pretty typical, and when you factor in the potential tax savings from eliminating that capital loss limitation, it usually pays for itself. One practical tip: start categorizing your trades now by holding period and strategy. This will help both you and your tax preparer determine if trader status makes sense and will make the documentation process much smoother.
This is really solid advice about the timing constraints. I hadn't fully grasped how tight the election deadlines are. Given that we're already deep into 2024, focusing on 2025 does seem like the smarter approach - it would give me time to properly document everything and make an informed decision. Your point about flat fees is reassuring too. I was getting stressed about potentially racking up huge hourly charges, but if specialized CPAs typically offer flat rates for trader status work, that makes the math much clearer. The potential $1,400+ in tax savings from eliminating the capital loss cap would definitely cover a $500-1,000 professional fee. I'm going to start categorizing my trades by holding period like you suggested. Most of mine are very short-term (2-3 minute holds), but I do have a few longer positions mixed in that I should separate out for analysis. One question - when you mention documenting "trading business activities," what specific types of documentation have you found most important? I spend a lot of time researching and monitoring positions, but I haven't been formally tracking that time or the resources I use.
I'm going through this exact same situation right now! Filed my 2024 taxes in early February and got the dreaded "refund on hold" notice last week. They want my 2022 W-2 that I apparently never filed (oops!). Reading through everyone's experiences here is both reassuring and terrifying - 6-10 weeks seems to be the consensus, which means I'm looking at late April/early May for my refund. As a fellow grad student, I totally feel your pain about needing that money for summer expenses! I'm planning to send mine certified mail this week after reading all these suggestions. Has anyone tried calling the IRS upfront to ask exactly which documents they need? I want to make sure I'm not missing anything else that could cause additional delays. The last thing I want is to wait 8 weeks only to find out they needed something else too. Thanks for starting this thread - it's incredibly helpful to hear real timelines from people who've actually been through this process!
Hey there! I'm new to this community but unfortunately not new to tax issues š I'm actually dealing with something similar right now - my 2024 refund is held up because I need to file some missing 2023 forms. Reading through everyone's experiences here has been super helpful! One thing I noticed from the comments is that calling the IRS upfront is definitely worth it, even though the wait times are brutal. A few people mentioned that agents can sometimes tell you exactly what's missing and even make notes on your account to help speed things up. @GamerGirl99 I'd definitely recommend calling before you send anything - better to wait on hold for a few hours now than to potentially wait months only to find out you needed additional documents. Also, has anyone tried the online IRS account to see if it shows what specific documents they're requesting? I'm wondering if that might give more detailed info than just the generic "we need your 2022 W-2" notice. Good luck with your refund - hopefully we'll all get through this waiting game soon! š¤
Welcome to the tax hold waiting room club! š© I'm currently on week 7 of waiting for my 2024 refund after mailing in my missing 2021 return. Based on what I'm seeing here, it looks like most people are getting their refunds released between weeks 6-10, so there's definitely light at the end of the tunnel. A few things I learned the hard way that might help you: 1. **Check your online account transcript weekly** - it updates before the refund status tool and shows processing codes that indicate movement 2. **Call exactly at 4 weeks** - don't wait longer because if there's an issue, you'll want to catch it early 3. **Keep detailed records** - write down dates, confirmation numbers, and who you spoke with The certified mail suggestion is spot-on. I used regular mail initially and had no way to prove they received it when I called. Had to resend everything certified, which added another 2 weeks to my timeline. For what it's worth, even though the wait is brutal, every person I've talked to who went through this process eventually got their refund. The IRS is slow but they do process these holds systematically. Hang in there - your summer ramen budget will thank you later! š
Thanks for sharing your timeline! Week 7 sounds rough but it's encouraging to know there's an end in sight. The transcript checking tip is gold - I had no idea it updated before the main refund status tool. Quick question for you and others who've been through this: when you call at the 4-week mark, what's the best number to use? I've seen different IRS phone numbers mentioned and I want to make sure I'm calling the right department that can actually help with refund holds vs just getting transferred around for hours. Also really appreciate the reminder about keeping detailed records. I'm definitely going to start a spreadsheet to track everything - dates, confirmation numbers, who I talked to, etc. This whole process is stressful enough without having to remember all the details! Here's hoping we both see some movement on our accounts soon! š¤
Hassan Khoury
I just wanted to add some reassurance here - I received my Austin letter about 3 weeks ago and it was indeed a 5071C verification notice. The whole experience was much less stressful than I anticipated! A few practical tips based on my recent experience: 1. When you get the letter, don't panic if the deadline seems tight - they actually give you 30 days from the letter date, not the date you receive it 2. I recommend trying the online ID.me route first since it's available 24/7, unlike the phone lines 3. Have your tax return handy during verification - they might ask you to confirm specific amounts from your filing 4. If you're married filing jointly, only the primary taxpayer needs to complete the verification My verification was completed online in about 35 minutes (including multiple attempts at getting decent photos), and I saw the 570 hold code removed from my transcript exactly 6 business days later. Refund hit my account 3 days after that. The IRS has definitely streamlined this process compared to previous years. While it's frustrating to have the delay, the actual verification steps are pretty straightforward now. Good luck and try not to stress too much about it!
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Dylan Evans
ā¢This is so reassuring to read! I'm actually expecting a letter from Austin tomorrow too and have been pretty anxious about it. Your timeline gives me hope - 6 business days to remove the hold and then just 3 more days for the actual refund sounds way better than some of the horror stories I've heard from previous years. The tip about having your tax return handy during verification is really helpful - I wouldn't have thought of that! Quick question: when you say the primary taxpayer needs to complete verification for joint filers, does that mean the spouse can't do it even if they have all the same documents and information? Just trying to understand the process better in case I need to coordinate with my partner. Thanks for sharing your positive experience - it's exactly what I needed to hear right now!
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Abigail Spencer
Based on your timeline and description, this is very likely to be a 5071C identity verification letter from the IRS. The Austin Service Center is indeed one of the main facilities that handles identity verification correspondence, and your 15-day timeframe from acceptance to letter generation is pretty typical for these cases. A few things to prepare for while you wait: 1. **Gather your documents now**: You'll likely need a government-issued photo ID (driver's license or passport), your Social Security card, and a copy of the tax return in question 2. **Check your transcript one more time**: Look for any new transaction codes that might have appeared since your last check - specifically TC 971 with Action Code 522 or 524, which would confirm identity verification requirements 3. **Consider your verification options**: Online through ID.me is usually fastest (available 24/7), but you can also verify by phone or schedule an in-person appointment at a Taxpayer Assistance Center The good news is that this process has become much more streamlined over the past couple of years. Most people who complete online verification see their refund released within 7-10 business days. While the delay is frustrating, it's become a fairly routine part of the process for many taxpayers. Don't stress too much - the letter will have very clear instructions on exactly what you need to do. Keep us updated on what you receive!
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