I went through something very similar when I moved states and started a new job. The combination of multiple W-2s and selecting Head of Household without properly accounting for your other income sources is definitely what caused your underwithholding issue. One thing that helped me was setting up quarterly estimated tax payments for situations like this. Since you know you'll likely owe again if you don't adjust your withholding, you could make estimated payments throughout 2025 to avoid penalties and the stress of owing a large amount at tax time. For your W-4 fix, I'd recommend using the IRS Withholding Estimator online rather than guessing. It will ask about all your jobs and give you specific amounts to withhold from each employer. Much more accurate than trying to figure out the multiple jobs worksheet manually. Also, keep in mind that owing $1,300 on multiple W-2s isn't necessarily a disaster - it just means your withholding was off. The goal is to get as close to zero as possible for next year so you're not giving the IRS an interest-free loan or scrambling to pay a big bill.

The good news is that owing $1,300 isn't catastrophic - it just means your withholding system needs an overhaul. I've been through similar situations with multiple W-2s, and it's almost always fixable with the right W-4 adjustments. Here's what I'd recommend for your immediate situation: First, if you haven't filed yet and need to pay what you owe, you can set up a payment plan directly with the IRS online. No need to call if you owe less than $50,000 - their online payment agreement tool is actually pretty straightforward. For fixing 2025, the Multiple Jobs Worksheet on the W-4 is your friend, but I get that it looks intimidating. The IRS Withholding Estimator online does the same calculations but walks you through it step by step. You'll need your most recent paystubs from all jobs, and it will tell you exactly what to put on each employer's W-4. One key thing - Arizona doesn't have special state withholding rules that would affect your federal taxes, so your move there isn't the culprit. It's really just the combination of Head of Household status (which assumes you're supporting dependents and withholds less) plus multiple income sources that each employer calculates in isolation. The quickest fix while you figure out the precise numbers is to change your highest-paying job's W-4 to "Single" status and add maybe $75-100 extra withholding per paycheck on line 4(c). You can always adjust it later once you run the numbers properly.

Does anyone know what code CP11 means? Just got a letter with this code and I'm freaking out a bit.

I've been dealing with IRS codes for years as a small business owner, and I wanted to add a few more important ones that haven't been mentioned yet: **Adjustment Codes:** - TC 290: Credit adjustment (usually good news - means you're getting money back) - TC 300: Debit adjustment (additional tax owed) - TC 420: Examination changes (audit adjustments) **Payment Codes:** - TC 610: Estimated tax payment - TC 670: Penalty assessed - TC 672: Failure to file penalty - TC 270: Account adjustment (can be positive or negative) **Pro tip:** If you see multiple transaction codes with the same date, they're usually related to the same action. For example, you might see a TC 290 (credit adjustment) followed by a TC 971 (notice sent) on the same date - this means they made an adjustment in your favor and sent you a notice about it. The key is not to panic when you see codes you don't recognize. Most of the time, if the IRS made an error in your favor, you'll see credits (TC 766, TC 768, TC 290). If they found issues, you'll typically see debits (TC 300) along with penalty codes. Always read the actual notice that accompanies the codes - the codes just tell you what type of action was taken, but the notice explains why.

That $0.00 balance update is definitely a great sign! I went through the same thing last month - account showed "still processing" for weeks, then suddenly switched to $0.00 owed on a Friday afternoon. My transcript updated that same night with an 846 code and DDD for the following Wednesday. The key thing to watch for is that 846 code on your transcript - that's when you'll see your actual direct deposit date. Based on your timeline (balance changing at 11:28 today), I'd expect your transcript to update tonight or tomorrow morning during their usual overnight processing window. Pro tip: if you're using the IRS2Go app, it sometimes shows transcript updates a few hours before the website does. Also, don't worry about those "Make a payment" buttons - they show up for everyone regardless of refund status. You're definitely in the home stretch now! 🎉

Just wanted to jump in as another newcomer who's been lurking and learning from everyone's experiences! I'm about 18 days into waiting and seeing all these success stories with the $0.00 balance change is giving me so much hope. I've been checking my account obsessively (probably multiple times a day - not my proudest moment 😅) and mine is still showing "still processing" but reading through all these timelines helps me understand I'm probably still within the normal range. Quick question for those who've been through this - when you say "transcript updates overnight," is there a specific time window that's most common? I've been checking around 6am but wondering if I should be looking earlier or later. Also, is the sa.www4.irs.gov site the same as what everyone else is using to check their account status? Thanks for creating such a supportive community here - it really makes this waiting period so much more bearable when you can see that others are going through the exact same thing! 🙏

Thanks everyone for all the detailed responses! This has been super educational. I had no idea about the direct donation requirement or the itemization issue. Based on what I'm reading here, it sounds like I can't deduct the 1-800-GOT-JUNK pickup, but I'm definitely going to look into those charity pickup services for future donations. The "donation bunching" strategy that Max mentioned is really interesting too - maybe I should plan my donations more strategically. One follow-up question: if I have items that are too worn for charity donation but still have some value, is there any tax benefit at all? Or is it just a loss either way? I'm thinking about some older electronics and appliances that work fine but have cosmetic issues.

Great question! Unfortunately, you cannot claim a tax deduction for items picked up by 1-800-GOT-JUNK, even if they eventually donate them to charity. The IRS requires that you donate directly to a qualified 501(c)(3) organization to claim any deduction - you can't use a middleman service. Here's what you need to know for future donations: - Donate directly to qualified charities like Goodwill, Salvation Army, or Habitat ReStore - Get proper documentation from the charity (written acknowledgment for donations over $250) - Items must be in "good used condition or better" - You can only deduct if you itemize deductions on Schedule A Since your furniture was in good condition, you might want to consider charity pickup services next time. Many legitimate charities offer free pickup and provide proper tax documentation. This way you'd get the same convenience as 1-800-GOT-JUNK but with the added benefit of a potential tax deduction. For your current situation, keep that receipt from 1-800-GOT-JUNK for your records, but unfortunately it won't help with your taxes.

This is really helpful information! I'm in a similar boat trying to optimize my ACA subsidies for 2025. One question I have - when you make traditional IRA contributions to reduce your MAGI, do you need to report those on your healthcare.gov application right away, or can you wait until tax time? I'm wondering about the timing because I might not know my exact income until later in the year, and I want to make sure I don't accidentally get too much in advance premium tax credits that I'd have to pay back. Has anyone dealt with this situation where your IRA contributions changed your subsidy eligibility after you'd already enrolled?

This is such a smart strategy for maximizing your ACA subsidies! I've been doing something similar for the past couple years. One additional tip I'd add - if you're really trying to dial in your MAGI to hit the sweet spot for subsidies, consider making your IRA contributions in smaller chunks throughout the year rather than all at once. This gives you more flexibility to adjust based on how your actual income is tracking. Also, don't forget that if you're married, both spouses can potentially make IRA contributions (up to the annual limit each), which could give you even more MAGI reduction if you're both eligible for the deduction. Just make sure you're staying within the income limits for deductibility that others mentioned. The fact that you're already maxing out your 401k shows you're thinking strategically about this. The combination of 401k + traditional IRA contributions can really help optimize both your retirement savings and your healthcare costs!