Just a heads up - everyone is suggesting adding deductions on line 4(b), but remember these should be ACTUAL deductions you qualify for beyond the standard deduction, like mortgage interest, large charitable contributions, etc. If you're just claiming the standard deduction, technically you should be using line 4(c) instead by putting a NEGATIVE number for additional withholding. But honestly, most payroll systems don't accept negative numbers there. This is why so many people with variable income end up using line 4(b) as a workaround, even though it's not technically the correct approach according to IRS instructions. Just be aware this is a gray area.

I've been dealing with this exact same issue! Variable income withholding is such a pain. One thing that really helped me was keeping a simple spreadsheet tracking my actual withholding percentage vs. my gross pay each week. I noticed my withholding would spike to like 35%+ on weeks where I worked 60+ hours, but drop to around 15% on my lighter weeks. What I ended up doing was calculating my expected annual income (sounds like you're thinking $85k), then figuring out what my actual tax liability should be. For $85k single with standard deduction, you're looking at roughly $14,500 in federal taxes for the year. I put about $18,000 in additional deductions on line 4(b) of my W4, which brought my withholding down to a more reasonable 20-22% range even on the big weeks. The key is monitoring it every few months and adjusting if needed. Also, don't stress too much about being "perfectly" accurate - as long as you're close and not massively underwithholding, you can always adjust throughout the year. The worst case is you owe a small amount at tax time, which beats giving the IRS an interest-free loan!

Code 291 can be super confusing! I had the same issue last year and it drove me nuts trying to figure out what was going on. From what I learned, code 291 usually means they made an adjustment to your return - could be a math error, missing forms, or they corrected something. The key is looking at the amount column next to it. If it's a credit (positive), they owe you. If it's a debit (negative), you might owe them. Also check if there are any follow-up codes like 766 (credit to your account) or 768 (earned income credit). The IRS phone lines are absolutely terrible right now so don't feel bad about not getting through. Have you tried looking at your account transcript online? Sometimes that gives more detail than the return transcript.

Code 291 is definitely confusing! I went through this same thing a few months ago. What helped me was looking at the "amount" column next to the code 291 - if it shows a positive number, that's usually good news (they owe you), but if it's negative, you might owe them. Also look for the cycle date on that line - that tells you when the adjustment was processed. The transcript format is honestly terrible and makes no sense until someone explains it. Have you been able to find any other codes like 846 (refund issued) or 570 (additional account action pending)? Those usually appear after a 291 and give you a better picture of what's happening. Definitely don't rely on calling - I was on hold for 4 hours just to get disconnected 🙄

I had a similar nightmare with ADP when I was helping my elderly parents with their taxes. After trying all the usual spots (Box 15, various tabs, etc.), I discovered that their employer had actually opted to suppress the state ID display in the employee portal for "security reasons." Turns out this is a configurable setting that some companies enable. If you've exhausted all the navigation options mentioned here and still can't find it, ask your HR department specifically if they've disabled state ID visibility for employees. In my parents' case, HR was able to email them a "complete" version of the W-2 that included all the employer tax information. It's frustrating that this isn't standardized across ADP implementations, but at least there's usually a workaround available through your employer directly.

Just wanted to follow up on this thread since I see so many helpful responses! I actually ended up finding my state ID number using a combination of the suggestions here. First tried the desktop browser approach that Jibriel mentioned, then used the "Print Preview" option which showed the complete W-2 format. The state ID was right there in Box 15, but it was labeled as "Employer State ID" rather than just "State ID" which is why I missed it initially. For anyone still struggling with this, I'd definitely recommend trying the desktop browser method first before calling HR or using any third-party services. ADP's mobile app really does hide a lot of the detailed information that shows up clearly in the web version. Successfully filed my state taxes and got confirmation within 2 days. Thanks everyone for the various tips and solutions!

As someone who went through a similar decision last year, I'd strongly recommend getting a consultation with both a tax professional and an estate planning attorney before making this change. The gift tax implications are just one piece of a much larger puzzle. From my research and experience, here are the key considerations beyond what others have mentioned: 1. **State-specific rules**: Some states have different gift tax rules or estate tax thresholds that could affect your decision. 2. **Future planning flexibility**: Once you add them as joint owners, it's much harder to undo if your circumstances change or if you want to restructure your estate plan later. 3. **Financial aid implications**: If either of your kids might apply for graduate school or other programs that consider parental assets, having them as joint owners could affect their eligibility. 4. **Investment management**: Consider how investment decisions will be made going forward - will they have input on buying/selling decisions, or are you expecting to maintain control? The TOD option that several people mentioned really does seem like the cleanest approach for most situations. You get the probate avoidance benefit without the immediate gift tax reporting, and your kids still inherit with the stepped-up basis advantage. Whatever you decide, make sure your broker fully explains the specific type of joint ownership they'll set up and get everything in writing about how the account will function day-to-day.

I've been following this discussion and there's one aspect I haven't seen fully addressed - the potential impact on your own financial flexibility once you add joint owners. When you make your kids joint owners of that $180K account, you're essentially giving up sole control over those assets. This means if you need to make major investment moves, liquidate positions for an emergency, or restructure your portfolio, you might need their agreement (depending on the specific account terms). Some brokers require all joint owners to sign off on significant transactions or account changes. Also worth considering: what happens if one of your kids has financial problems down the road? Creditors, bankruptcy, or even an ugly divorce could potentially put claims against "their portion" of the joint account, even though you contributed all the original funds. I went through something similar with my elderly father's accounts. We ultimately chose a revocable trust structure instead, which gave him complete control during his lifetime but ensured smooth transfer to beneficiaries. It avoided the gift tax reporting requirement while still accomplishing his estate planning goals. The trust route does involve some setup costs and ongoing administration, but for an account of this size, it might be worth exploring as an alternative to both joint ownership and TOD designations.

Has anyone used TurboTax to compare filing jointly vs separately? Is there an easy way to see both scenarios without doing the whole return twice?

The IRS absolutely does not care if you switch filing statuses from year to year - it's your right as a taxpayer to choose the status that works best for your situation each year. Many married couples switch back and forth between joint and separate filing depending on their circumstances. However, before you make the switch, definitely run the numbers both ways. Filing separately usually results in higher total taxes because you lose access to several valuable credits and deductions. You'll also both be required to either itemize or take the standard deduction - you can't mix and match. The main situations where separate filing makes sense are: significant medical expenses for one spouse, income-driven student loan repayments, concerns about liability for your spouse's tax issues, or if one spouse has a lot of miscellaneous deductions that get limited by AGI thresholds. I'd strongly recommend using tax software to model both scenarios with your actual numbers before deciding. The difference can be substantial either way depending on your specific situation.