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IRS Account Changed From "Still Processing" to "$0.00 Owed" - Will DDD Appear Soon on IRS.gov?

Just noticed my transcript had a status change on my IRS account. It was showing 'still processing' for 2024 but now when I checked at 11:28, my Account Status shows "Total Amount Owed as of February 16, 2025: $0.00". I'm looking at the IRS website (sa.www4.irs.gov) and it has that warning at the top about outreach from the IRS: "If you got an unexpected call, text, email, social media message or in-person visit, it's not us. Protect yourself from scams. In almost all cases, our first contact is through regular mail delivered by the United States Postal Service. View your mail from the IRS. In extremely rare circumstances, our first contact may be an in-person visit. Learn how to tell if it's us." Then directly under that is the Account Status section showing "Total Amount Owed as of February 16, 2025: $0.00" with a "View Balance Details" link below it. The View Balance Details and DDD (Direct Deposit Date) haven't shown up yet, but the amount owed section updated within the last hour. In the Payments section, there are options to "Make a payment" and "View Payment Options" but that's not relevant since I'm owed a refund, not owing them money. The $0.00 balance is making me hopeful that they've processed my return and are preparing my refund. Anyone know if this means transcripts will update tonight or tomorrow with a deposit date? Does the $0.00 balance typically appear right before they issue the refund amount? I'm checking on sa.www4.irs.gov if that matters for timeline predictions.

Leo McDonald

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That $0.00 balance update is definitely a great sign! I went through the same thing last month - account showed "still processing" for weeks, then suddenly switched to $0.00 owed on a Friday afternoon. My transcript updated that same night with an 846 code and DDD for the following Wednesday. The key thing to watch for is that 846 code on your transcript - that's when you'll see your actual direct deposit date. Based on your timeline (balance changing at 11:28 today), I'd expect your transcript to update tonight or tomorrow morning during their usual overnight processing window. Pro tip: if you're using the IRS2Go app, it sometimes shows transcript updates a few hours before the website does. Also, don't worry about those "Make a payment" buttons - they show up for everyone regardless of refund status. You're definitely in the home stretch now! šŸŽ‰

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Melissa Lin

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This is super helpful, thanks! I had no idea about the IRS2Go app showing updates earlier - definitely downloading that right now. It's crazy how much there is to learn about this whole process. Really appreciate you taking the time to explain the 846 code and timeline expectations. Fingers crossed my transcript updates tonight! šŸ¤ž

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Just wanted to jump in as another newcomer who's been lurking and learning from everyone's experiences! I'm about 18 days into waiting and seeing all these success stories with the $0.00 balance change is giving me so much hope. I've been checking my account obsessively (probably multiple times a day - not my proudest moment šŸ˜…) and mine is still showing "still processing" but reading through all these timelines helps me understand I'm probably still within the normal range. Quick question for those who've been through this - when you say "transcript updates overnight," is there a specific time window that's most common? I've been checking around 6am but wondering if I should be looking earlier or later. Also, is the sa.www4.irs.gov site the same as what everyone else is using to check their account status? Thanks for creating such a supportive community here - it really makes this waiting period so much more bearable when you can see that others are going through the exact same thing! šŸ™

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Hey Nathaniel! Welcome to the waiting game club šŸ˜… 18 days is totally normal - don't stress! For transcript updates, I've found they usually happen between 12am-6am, with most people seeing changes around 3-4am EST. I typically check around 6:30am and that seems to catch most updates. And yes, sa.www4.irs.gov is the right site - same one we're all using. You're definitely still in the normal timeframe, so hang in there! The $0.00 balance change will come and then you'll be in the home stretch like everyone else here. This community really is amazing for keeping us sane during the wait! šŸ¤ž

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Myles Regis

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Thanks everyone for all the detailed responses! This has been super educational. I had no idea about the direct donation requirement or the itemization issue. Based on what I'm reading here, it sounds like I can't deduct the 1-800-GOT-JUNK pickup, but I'm definitely going to look into those charity pickup services for future donations. The "donation bunching" strategy that Max mentioned is really interesting too - maybe I should plan my donations more strategically. One follow-up question: if I have items that are too worn for charity donation but still have some value, is there any tax benefit at all? Or is it just a loss either way? I'm thinking about some older electronics and appliances that work fine but have cosmetic issues.

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For items that are too worn for charity donation, unfortunately there's generally no tax benefit. The IRS requires donated items to be in "good used condition or better" to claim any deduction. If charities won't accept the items due to excessive wear, that's usually a good indicator they don't meet the IRS standard either. However, you might consider selling those functional but cosmetically damaged electronics and appliances instead! Facebook Marketplace, Craigslist, or eBay could help you recover some value. While you can't claim a tax deduction, at least you get cash instead of paying for removal. Just be honest about the cosmetic issues in your listings - many people are happy to buy functional items at a discount. Another option for electronics specifically is to check if your local Best Buy or other retailers have recycling programs. They often take old electronics for free, though again, no tax benefit.

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Sean Doyle

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Great question! Unfortunately, you cannot claim a tax deduction for items picked up by 1-800-GOT-JUNK, even if they eventually donate them to charity. The IRS requires that you donate directly to a qualified 501(c)(3) organization to claim any deduction - you can't use a middleman service. Here's what you need to know for future donations: - Donate directly to qualified charities like Goodwill, Salvation Army, or Habitat ReStore - Get proper documentation from the charity (written acknowledgment for donations over $250) - Items must be in "good used condition or better" - You can only deduct if you itemize deductions on Schedule A Since your furniture was in good condition, you might want to consider charity pickup services next time. Many legitimate charities offer free pickup and provide proper tax documentation. This way you'd get the same convenience as 1-800-GOT-JUNK but with the added benefit of a potential tax deduction. For your current situation, keep that receipt from 1-800-GOT-JUNK for your records, but unfortunately it won't help with your taxes.

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Kyle Wallace

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This is such a comprehensive summary - thank you! I'm new to this community but dealing with a similar situation. I had no idea about the middleman rule before reading this thread. Quick question: when you mention that items need to be in "good used condition or better," how strict is that requirement? I have some furniture that's functional but has minor pet hair embedded in the fabric. Would that disqualify it from donation, or is that considered normal wear and tear? I want to make sure I understand the standards before scheduling a charity pickup. Also, does anyone know if there's a difference in documentation requirements between different qualified charities? Like, does Goodwill have different forms than Salvation Army for the same donation value?

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This is really helpful information! I'm in a similar boat trying to optimize my ACA subsidies for 2025. One question I have - when you make traditional IRA contributions to reduce your MAGI, do you need to report those on your healthcare.gov application right away, or can you wait until tax time? I'm wondering about the timing because I might not know my exact income until later in the year, and I want to make sure I don't accidentally get too much in advance premium tax credits that I'd have to pay back. Has anyone dealt with this situation where your IRA contributions changed your subsidy eligibility after you'd already enrolled?

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Great question about timing! You don't need to report your IRA contributions on healthcare.gov right away - you estimate your income for the year when you enroll, and then reconcile everything when you file your taxes. The key is to be as accurate as possible with your income estimate on your application. If you're planning to make IRA contributions that will reduce your MAGI, you should factor those into your estimated income when you apply. If your actual income (including the effect of IRA contributions) ends up being different from what you estimated, you'll either get additional credits when you file your taxes or have to pay some back. The IRS gives you until the tax filing deadline to make IRA contributions for the previous year, so you have flexibility to adjust based on your actual income. I'd recommend updating your healthcare.gov application if your income estimate changes significantly during the year, rather than waiting until tax time. This helps avoid big surprises at tax filing!

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This is such a smart strategy for maximizing your ACA subsidies! I've been doing something similar for the past couple years. One additional tip I'd add - if you're really trying to dial in your MAGI to hit the sweet spot for subsidies, consider making your IRA contributions in smaller chunks throughout the year rather than all at once. This gives you more flexibility to adjust based on how your actual income is tracking. Also, don't forget that if you're married, both spouses can potentially make IRA contributions (up to the annual limit each), which could give you even more MAGI reduction if you're both eligible for the deduction. Just make sure you're staying within the income limits for deductibility that others mentioned. The fact that you're already maxing out your 401k shows you're thinking strategically about this. The combination of 401k + traditional IRA contributions can really help optimize both your retirement savings and your healthcare costs!

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This is really solid advice about making contributions throughout the year! I hadn't thought about the flexibility that gives you. Quick question though - when you say "sweet spot for subsidies," are there specific income thresholds where the subsidy amounts drop off dramatically? I keep hearing about "cliffs" but I'm not sure exactly what income levels to watch out for. Also, do you know if there's any advantage to timing when during the year you make the IRA contributions, or does it not matter as long as it's before the tax deadline?

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One more thing to consider: if your friends are paying below-market rent, the IRS might consider this a "shared living arrangement" rather than a rental business. This can affect which deductions you're allowed to take. For example, if you're charging significantly less than market rates, the IRS might view this as a personal arrangement, not a profit-seeking activity, and limit your ability to claim losses. This is especially important if your expenses exceed your rental income. Just something to keep in mind if you're giving your friends a "good deal" on rent!

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Dylan Evans

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I hadn't thought about this at all! I'm charging my friends a bit below market rate ($750 each when similar rooms go for about $850-900 in my area). Do you know if there's a specific percentage below market that triggers this consideration? Or is it more of a judgment call by the IRS?

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There's no specific percentage threshold defined by the IRS - it's more of a facts and circumstances test. Being 10-15% below market (as in your case) is probably not enough to trigger concerns, especially if you can show you're still making a profit overall. The bigger red flags come when people charge nominal rent (like $200 for a room worth $900) or when they consistently show losses year after year. As long as your arrangement has a reasonable expectation of profit and looks like a legitimate landlord-tenant relationship, you should be fine. Just keep good records of comparable rental rates in your area to justify your pricing if questioned.

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Beth Ford

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Great question! I went through this exact situation when I started renting out rooms in my home. A few additional tips that helped me: 1. **Keep meticulous records from day one** - I created a simple spreadsheet tracking all rental income, expenses, and the dates rooms were occupied. This made tax time so much easier. 2. **Consider setting up a separate bank account** for rental income and expenses. It's not required, but it makes tracking everything cleaner and shows the IRS you're treating this as a legitimate business activity. 3. **Don't forget about depreciation** - You can depreciate the rental portion of your home over 27.5 years. This is often overlooked but can be a significant deduction. Just remember you'll have to recapture this when you sell. 4. **Track vacancy periods** - If a room sits empty for a month between tenants, you can't deduct expenses for that room during the vacant period (though you can still deduct your portion of shared expenses). The square footage method you mentioned is definitely the way to go. At $750 each for two rooms, you're generating good income that should more than cover your allocated expenses. Just make sure you're consistent with your allocation method year after year!

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Debra Bai

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This is really helpful advice, especially about the separate bank account! I'm just getting started with understanding all this and hadn't thought about tracking vacancy periods. Quick question - when you say you can't deduct expenses for a vacant room, does that include things like utilities that you're still paying for the whole house even when the room is empty? Or are you referring more to things like advertising costs to find new tenants?

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Zoe Walker

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I'm an accountant and just want to clarify something here - you absolutely CANNOT deduct CDL training on your taxes as a W-2 employee anymore. That was eliminated in the Tax Cuts and Jobs Act. Education credits are your only option, and even then you need to make sure the school qualifies and your income isn't too high.

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Elijah Brown

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This isn't 100% accurate. If OP was switching careers completely (like going from office work to truck driving) rather than just improving skills in the same field, the CDL costs might qualify as deductible under the work-related education exception. It depends on the specific situation.

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@Elijah Brown raises a good point about career changes, but in this case OP mentioned they ve'been driving trucks for 2 years already, so this would be considered maintaining/improving skills in their current field rather than switching careers. The work-related education exception you re'referring to was also eliminated for employees under the TCJA. @Rajiv Kumar - given your situation as a W-2 employee, your best bet is definitely the Lifetime Learning Credit if your school qualifies and your income falls within the limits. The credit phases out between $59,000-$69,000 for single filers 2024 tax (year . )

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Rami Samuels

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@Rajiv Kumar - I went through this exact same situation with my CDL training expenses last year. Since you're a W-2 employee, the Lifetime Learning Credit is really your only option now. The key thing is making sure your CDL school is eligible - they need to have a Federal School Code and be able to receive federal student aid. I'd recommend calling your CDL school directly and asking if they're eligible for federal financial aid programs. If they are, you can claim up to 20% of your qualified education expenses (up to $10,000 in expenses, so max $2,000 credit). Just make sure your adjusted gross income is under the phase-out limits - it starts phasing out at $59,000 for single filers. Also keep all your loan documents and receipts from the school. The IRS may want to see proof that the expenses were for qualified education that maintained or improved your job skills. Good luck!

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Luca Greco

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This is really helpful advice! I'm in a similar situation - just finished CDL school last year and wasn't sure about the tax implications. Quick question though - when you say "qualified education that maintained or improved job skills," does that apply even if you got your CDL before starting your trucking job? I got mine through a private school before I was hired, so technically it was to GET the job rather than improve existing skills. Would that still qualify for the Lifetime Learning Credit?

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