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This happened to me last year. The workaround I found was to transfer half of my AKREX holdings to my spouse's separate account. Since it was a different taxpayer ID, we were able to use specific identification method on those transferred shares. The IRS considers it a completely different tax situation. Keep in mind this only works if you're married and your spouse has a separate brokerage account (not a joint account). Also, the transfer isn't considered a taxable event since it's between spouses. Might be worth looking into if that applies to your situation.
Couldn't this be considered some kind of tax avoidance scheme? I thought the IRS had rules against transferring assets just to create tax advantages?
Transfers between spouses are explicitly allowed under IRC Section 1041, which states that "no gain or loss shall be recognized on a transfer of property from an individual to a spouse." This isn't considered tax avoidance but a legitimate planning strategy. The key distinction is that my spouse is genuinely a different taxpayer with a separate SSN. Once the assets are transferred, they legitimately belong to my spouse, who then has the right to select their preferred cost basis method for those newly acquired shares. This differs from trying to change the method on your own shares after you've already made an election.
Has anyone tried using tax loss harvesting software like Betterment or Wealthfront for this kind of situation? I'm wondering if their automatic tax loss harvesting would handle the average cost basis problem better than trying to do it manually.
Those robo-advisors typically use specific identification method from the start, so they avoid the average cost basis problem entirely. But they won't help with existing mutual fund positions that are already using average cost basis. You'd have to sell everything (potentially creating a taxable event) and then move to their platform.
Thanks, that makes sense. I guess there's no easy solution once you're stuck with average cost basis. I'll make sure to use specific identification for any new investments going forward.
Something important nobody has mentioned yet: even if you don't owe any federal taxes, you might want to file anyway because you could be eligible for the Earned Income Tax Credit (EITC) depending on your exact income and situation. This is a refundable credit meaning you can get money back even if you didn't have taxes withheld. The threshold for singles without children is lower, but still worth checking. There are also education credits if you're in school part-time. Don't just assume you shouldn't file because your income is low - sometimes that's exactly when you SHOULD file to claim refundable credits!
I actually am taking some community college classes! Would that qualify me for education credits even though my income is low? Also, what's the income range for that Earned Income Tax Credit thing you mentioned? This makes me think I definitely should file even though the tax place told me not to.
Yes, education expenses could qualify you for the American Opportunity Credit or the Lifetime Learning Credit! The American Opportunity Credit is partially refundable, meaning you could get up to $1,000 back even if you don't owe taxes. You need Form 1098-T from your school which shows your tuition payments. For the Earned Income Tax Credit, a single person with no qualifying children needs to earn less than about $17,640 in 2025, and be at least 25 years old (with some exceptions). Since you're 19, you might not qualify for EITC yet unless you meet one of the exceptions, but the education credits are definitely worth looking into. This is exactly why general advice like "don't bother filing" can sometimes cause people to miss out on money they deserve!
I'm a payroll specialist and just want to mention - this isn't technically an I-9 issue. The I-9 is for employment eligibility verification (citizenship/work authorization). What you're describing is a W-4 issue. The W-4 is the form that tells your employer how much federal tax to withhold. But yes, like others said, if you're making under the standard deduction ($13,850 for 2025), you won't owe federal income tax anyway. Just make sure to submit a new W-4 so they start withholding correctly going forward!
Oh that makes sense why they were confused when I mentioned the I-9! I just knew it was some form with a letter and number lol. Is there a way I can check if my W-4 is filled out correctly before submitting a new one? I don't wanna mess it up again.
Something else to consider - if you discover an excess contribution, you can actually remove it (plus any earnings on that excess amount) before your tax filing deadline to avoid the 6% penalty entirely. If you've already filed your 2020 return, you might still be able to fix this by filing an amended return. I made an excess contribution to my Roth last year and was able to call my brokerage and specifically request a "return of excess contribution" for the specific tax year. They calculated the earnings on that amount and distributed both back to me. Had to report the earnings as income for the year I received the distribution, but avoided the 6% penalty.
Thanks for this tip! So if I understand correctly, I could still potentially avoid the penalty even now? My broker is Vanguard - would I just call them and ask for a "return of excess contribution" specifically for my 2020 contribution? Do you know if there's a time limit for doing this correction?
Yes, you would call Vanguard and specifically request a "return of excess contribution" for tax year 2020. Be very clear about which tax year you're correcting. There is a time limit - ideally you want to do this before the tax filing deadline for that year (including extensions). Since we're well past the 2020 deadline, you'll still owe the 6% penalty for 2020, but removing the excess now stops you from owing the penalty for subsequent years too. The excess contribution continues to be penalized 6% every year until you either remove it or "absorb" it by using up part of a future year's contribution limit.
Just to clarify what everyone is saying - yes, you will owe the 6% penalty. The "including 2020 contributions made in 2021" language specifically means the IRS wants you to pretend the money was there on Dec 31, 2020, even though it physically wasn't. I had the exact same situation last year and I used FreeTaxUSA to file. Their software actually has a pretty good walkthrough for Form 5329. Much better than TurboTax which kept giving me errors.
Another option is adjusting your W-2 withholding at your main job. I'm a teacher with a tutoring side hustle, and I just have extra taken out of my regular paychecks to cover what I'll owe for the tutoring income. Saves me the headache of keeping track of quarterly payments.
Does your employer know you do this? I'm worried mine would think I'm violating some non-compete if I tell them I need extra withholding for my side business.
Your employer doesn't need to know why you're adjusting your withholding. When you fill out a new W-4, you can either claim fewer allowances or simply specify an additional dollar amount to withhold from each paycheck. There's no requirement to explain why you want more taxes withheld. Many people adjust their withholding for various reasons - maybe they have investment income, rental property, or just want a bigger refund. The payroll department processes the change without needing an explanation.
quick tip - i messed up and didnt pay quarterly last year and got hit with a $89 penalty. not the end of the world but now i just use the IRS tax withholding estimator on their website which tells you how to adjust your w4 at your main job to cover everything. free and easy.
Where do you find the estimator? I've been all over the IRS site and can't find anything helpful.
Yara Assad
The W4 form is terribly designed - they should rename Step 3 to "Credits" instead of making it seem like it's only for dependents. I've been doing taxes for 10+ years and even I get confused by the new W4 layout sometimes. Another note: if your income changes significantly during the year, you'll want to redo this calculation. The $701 is based on your current income and projected earnings for the rest of the year. Also check if your second job withholds at the correct rate - multiple jobs often leads to underwithholding if not set up properly.
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Ingrid Larsson
ā¢Thanks for mentioning this! My second job actually just increased my hours, so I'll probably be making about 25% more there than when I first did the W4 calculation. Should I just redo the entire IRS calculator or is there a simple adjustment I can make?
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Yara Assad
ā¢Definitely redo the entire calculator with your updated income projections. There's no simple adjustment because the calculator is considering tax brackets, your whole annual income, and how much has already been withheld year-to-date. With a 25% increase at your second job, that could potentially push some of your income into a higher tax bracket, so you want the calculator to recompute everything. While you're at it, make sure both jobs have the correct W4 settings. For the highest-paying job, use the results from the calculator. For the second job, you might want to check the box in Step 2(c) or use the multiple jobs worksheet to ensure enough is being withheld there too.
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Olivia Clark
When I got married I screwed this up and ended up owing $4,300 at tax time. The W4 calculator seems helpful but it assumes uniform income throughout the year. If you just got married and the calculator is telling you to put $701 in Step 3, that number is probably prorated for the remainder of the year. Next January, you should fill out a new W4 for the full year effect. Also, consider if you'll itemize deductions or take the standard deduction - this affects your withholding calculation too.
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Javier Morales
ā¢This happened to me too! That $701 sounds about right for adjusting withholding after marriage mid-year. Just don't forget to submit a new W4 in January like others said.
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