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Has anyone tried both FreeTaxUSA and TaxSlayer? I'm looking to ditch TurboTax after they charged me $89 when I thought I was using their free version. Ended up paying almost $100 for a very basic return!
Thanks for the insight! Does FreeTaxUSA handle crypto transactions well? That's one area where TurboTax was actually pretty good, but not worth the price they're charging now.
FreeTaxUSA does handle crypto transactions, but it's more manual than TurboTax. You'll need to enter your transactions yourself if you have a lot of them, since they don't have the same direct import features as TurboTax. The upside is they don't charge extra for crypto reporting like TurboTax does with their forced premium upgrade. If you have your transaction history in a spreadsheet format, it's pretty straightforward to enter. Just be prepared to spend a little more time on it compared to TurboTax's automated imports.
i used to be a turbo tax fanboy but switched to freetaxusa last year. honestly the best decision ever!!! š saved like $75 and it was just as easy. the only difference i noticed was less hand-holding but if you're halfway decent with taxes its totally fine. turbo tax is like the apple of tax software... charging premium prices for basically the same thing everyone else offers lol
Just a heads up to everyone that if you're claiming the American Opportunity Credit for the same student, this changes the calculation quite a bit. We found that filing a return for our student (even though not required) to claim AOTC gave us a $2500 credit, which far outweighed any PTC reduction. The scholarship was still unearned income, but the education credit made filing worthwhile.
So does this mean your student's income DID count toward PTC household income once you filed their return? Or were they still exempt from household income because they were below the filing requirement threshold, even though you voluntarily filed? This distinction seems really important.
Their income remained exempt from the household income calculation for Premium Tax Credit purposes. The key is that they were below the filing requirement thresholds ($12,950 for earned income and $1,250 for unearned income), so even though we voluntarily filed a return, their income didn't have to be included in the PTC household calculation. The IRS looks at whether they were required to file, not whether they actually filed. This is an important distinction that many tax software programs don't explain well. So we got the benefit of claiming the American Opportunity Credit without any negative impact on our Premium Tax Credit.
Wait, has anyone actually double-checked what counts as "earned income" for the Additional Child Tax Credit specifically? I thought that was different from the general definition of earned income. Like, does work-study even count for ACTC purposes? This is getting confusing!!!
Good question! For Additional Child Tax Credit purposes, earned income refers to wages, salaries, tips, self-employment income, and certain disability benefits. Work-study income does count as earned income because it's reported on a W-2 as wages. However, the confusion might be because you're thinking of the Earned Income Tax Credit (EITC), which has its own specific definition of earned income. For the Additional Child Tax Credit, what matters is having at least $2,500 of earned income to begin qualifying, but the credit amount is based on your overall tax situation, not just earned income.
Thanks for clearing that up! I was totally mixing up ACTC requirements with EITC. That makes much more sense now. So if I understand right, the parent needs earned income to qualify for ACTC, but the scholarship question is more about how it affects household income for Premium Tax Credit, not whether it counts for the ACTC calculation itself?
When I started my LLC, I was confused too. My accountant told me to just use cash basis because: 1. It's easier to understand (money in, money out - done) 2. Better for taxes usually (you can time income/expenses better) 3. Less bookkeeping hassle 4. Most small businesses use it Unless you have inventory or make over $26 million annually, cash method is usually fine. The IRS generally prefers small businesses use cash accounting anyway.
I heard businesses with inventory HAVE to use accrual. Is that true? I'm planning to sell handmade jewelry through my LLC and will have some materials on hand.
The real question to ask: How do you plan to run your business day-to-day? If you're mostly getting paid immediately for services (like a coffee shop, hair salon, etc.), cash basis makes more sense. If you send lots of invoices with payment terms, have significant inventory, or have business loans/financing, accrual might give you a clearer financial picture. Don't overthink it though - most accountants can help you change methods later if needed. Cash is simpler to start with.
That's super helpful! My business will be mostly project-based digital marketing with clients paying after work is completed, usually within 30 days. No inventory really, just my time and some software subscriptions. So it sounds like cash would be simpler to start with?
For a project-based digital marketing business with 30-day payment terms and no inventory, cash accounting would absolutely be simpler to start with. It'll align better with your actual cash flow (which is what you really care about when you're starting out), and the record-keeping is much more straightforward. You'll just record income when clients actually pay you, which makes tax planning easier too. If your business model changes significantly down the road or you grow substantially, you can always reconsider, but cash accounting is the right choice for your situation now.
Don't forget about liability insurance! If you're renting out a camper, you need proper commercial insurance coverage. Your regular homeowner's policy likely won't cover commercial activities, and your personal auto insurance won't cover rental use. This is actually relevant to your tax question too - insurance costs can be allocated between business/personal use just like your storage costs. The insurance costs specifically for the rental activity are fully deductible business expenses.
Thanks for bringing this up! Do you have any recommendations for finding good commercial insurance for a camper rental? And approximately how much should I expect to pay compared to regular insurance?
I recommend talking to an independent insurance broker who handles both personal and commercial policies. They can shop around for the best coverage for your specific situation. Commercial insurance for a rental camper will definitely cost more than personal insurance - probably 1.5 to 2 times as much. The exact cost depends on factors like the value of your camper, your location, coverage limits, and how many days you rent it out. Make sure the policy specifically covers peer-to-peer rentals, as some commercial policies are designed for full-time rental businesses and might not be appropriate for your mixed-use situation.
Just want to add - make sure you're following local zoning laws if you're running a business from your home. Some neighborhoods have restrictions on commercial activities, including vehicle rentals and storage of commercial vehicles. Would hate to see you get hit with fines or have to shut down your business after investing in the camper.
Sophia Miller
Have you considered just making estimated tax payments instead of messing with your W4s? My husband and I had the same problem for years - both in 12% bracket individually but 22% together. We found it easier to just leave our W4s alone and make a quarterly payment to cover the difference. We basically calculated how much more we needed to pay (about $3,600/year in our case), divided by 4, and just make $900 payments each quarter through the IRS Direct Pay website. Super easy and we don't have to mess with our payroll departments or worry about overwithholding.
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Lincoln Ramiro
ā¢How do you calculate the right amount for those quarterly payments? Do you just look at how much you owed the previous year and divide by 4? I'm worried about still getting the calculation wrong.
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Sophia Miller
ā¢I look at how much we owed the previous year as a starting point. Then I divide by 4 for each quarterly payment. If your income is fairly stable year to year, this works well. For example, if you owed $2,400 last year, you'd make four $600 quarterly payments. The IRS has a "safe harbor" rule where if you pay at least 100% of last year's tax liability (or 110% if your income is over $150,000), you won't get hit with underpayment penalties even if you end up owing more.
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Mason Davis
The entire W4 system is such a mess for two-income households! My husband and I gave up trying to get it perfect and just do this simple method: 1. We both claim "married filing jointly" on our W4s 2. We both check the "multiple jobs" box in Step 2 3. Then we each add an additional specific amount on line 4(c) We take our total tax bill from last year, subtract what was already withheld, then divide that shortage by the number of paychecks we get in a year (24 for me, 26 for him). I put about $50 extra per check and he does $45. No complicated calculations, no tax bracket math, just a simple adjustment based on what we actually owed before. Haven't owed money in 3 years doing it this way.
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Mia Rodriguez
ā¢Wouldn't checking the multiple jobs box AND adding extra withholding be too much? Isn't the box supposed to handle the two incomes problem already?
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