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Something no one mentioned - check if your nursing school expenses might qualify for any other credits or deductions beyond education credits! Depending on your situation, some of those expenses might qualify as either medical expenses (if you itemize) or potentially job-related expenses if you're already working in healthcare. I'm not a tax pro, but when I was getting my respiratory therapy certification while working as a medical assistant, I found that some expenses could be classified in multiple ways. Might be worth exploring all angles!
Thanks for bringing this up! I am actually already working as a CNA at a hospital that's helping with some tuition reimbursement once I start. Would that change anything about how I should be looking at these expenses? The hospital benefits coordinator mentioned something about "work-related education" but I wasn't sure what she meant.
That definitely opens up more possibilities! Since you're already working in healthcare as a CNA, some of your nursing education expenses might qualify as work-related education expenses if they maintain or improve skills needed in your current employment. The downside is that after the tax law changes in 2018, work-related education expenses are much harder to deduct for employees. However, your tuition reimbursement situation is really important to consider. If your employer is providing tuition assistance, up to $5,250 per year can be excluded from your income if it's part of a qualified educational assistance program. Any amount over that would be taxable unless it qualifies as a working condition fringe benefit.
I literally just went through this exact situation with my surgical tech program last year. One thing that saved me - I called my school's financial aid office and explained I needed a 1098-T for the expenses paid in 2024. Even though classes hadn't started, they issued me a 1098-T for the "prepayments" which allowed me to claim them on my 2024 taxes. Not all schools will do this, but mine did after I explained the situation. Worth a phone call to see if they can help!
21 Another option worth considering is adjusting your W-4 by using the deductions worksheet. If you have regular deductions like mortgage interest, high medical expenses, or significant charitable contributions, you can account for these on your W-4 to reduce withholding. My situation is similar (HOH with dependent) and I was getting $5k+ refunds until I figured this out. Just make sure your tax situation will be stable for the year so you don't end up owing too much.
4 I always forget about accounting for deductions on the W-4! Do you just use last year's deduction total when filling it out or do you need to estimate the current year? And where exactly on the new W-4 do you put this info?
21 You'd use Step 4(b) on the new W-4 form to list deductions beyond the standard deduction. I typically start with last year's deductions and adjust if I know something significant will change. For example, if you normally take a standard deduction but will itemize this year due to a large medical expense or new mortgage, you'd calculate the difference between your expected itemized deductions and the standard deduction, then put that amount on line 4(b). Just be conservative with your estimates to avoid underwithholding penalties.
16 Be careful about claiming exempt! My coworker did this as HOH with one kid thinking the same way as you, and got hit with an underpayment penalty. Adjusting your W-4 using the official calculator is your safest bet. Remember that the withholding tables are designed to be accurate across the whole year. If you adjust now (halfway through the year), you might need to withhold even less for the remainder of the year to make up for the over-withholding that's already happened in the first half.
9 This is really good advice about adjusting for mid-year changes. When I updated my W-4 last June, I had to account for the over-withholding from January-May. The calculator on the IRS site actually helps with this - it asks when you're making the change and adjusts accordingly.
One thing nobody has mentioned is that you need to recalculate this each year. The safe harbor of 110% of previous year's liability changes annually. So if you're planning for 2025, you'd need to withhold at least 110% of your 2024 tax liability. Based on your numbers, your 2024 tax is $43.4k, so your 2025 safe harbor amount would be $47.74k. If your expected 2025 tax is higher than that, you should use the higher number. Also, don't forget about estimated tax payments as another tool. You could set your withholding a bit lower than needed and then make a strategic Q4 estimated payment to hit your target amount.
Thanks for bringing up the safe harbor rule - that's really helpful! If my 2024 tax is $43.4k, and I need to meet 110% of that ($47.74k), but I want to owe $8k on a projected $48k tax liability, does that mean I should have approximately $40k withheld throughout the year? Or am I missing something in the calculation?
Your calculation is correct. If your expected 2025 tax liability is $48k and you want to owe $8k at filing time, you'd aim for $40k in withholding throughout the year. The safe harbor rule is just to avoid penalties. Since $40k is less than the safe harbor amount of $47.74k (110% of your 2024 liability), you need to make sure you hit at least $47.74k through a combination of withholding and estimated payments to avoid penalties. So you could do $40k in withholding and then make an estimated payment of $7.74k in Q4 to satisfy the safe harbor while still owing about $8k when you file.
Am I the only one amazed that the OP is deliberately trying to owe money? I've always thought the goal was to get a refund or break even. Wouldn't owing $8k mean you also owe interest and penalties? Or is there some loophole I'm missing?
It's actually a valid strategy for credit card churning. If you put an $8k tax payment on a new credit card, you can often meet the spending requirement for a big sign-up bonus. Some cards offer $750-1000 in bonuses for spending $5-8k in the first few months. Plus you get the regular points. As long as you meet the safe harbor rules (withhold 110% of previous year's tax if your income is over $150k), you won't owe penalties. And there's no interest if you pay by the filing deadline. It's totally legal - just a way to get value from money you'd have to pay anyway.
One thing no one's mentioned is that municipal bond interest is generally exempt from federal taxes. If you're trying to generate income while keeping your taxable income low, muni bonds could be worth looking into as part of your strategy. Just make sure you understand the state tax implications as well!
Are municipal bonds still worth it though? The yield is typically lower than corporate bonds or dividend stocks because of the tax advantage. Wouldn't it make more sense to just keep total income under the standard deduction with higher-yielding investments?
It really depends on your total income needs. If you need more income than the standard deduction would shelter, then municipal bonds become valuable because that portion remains tax-free regardless. For someone who needs, say, $30,000 in annual income, they could take $14,600 from taxable sources (covered by the standard deduction) and the rest from municipal bonds, effectively paying zero federal tax on the full amount. If your income needs are below the standard deduction, then yes, higher-yielding taxable investments make more sense mathematically.
Don't forget about state taxes! Even if your federal taxable income is zero, many states have different rules and lower standard deductions. I learned this the hard way when I thought I'd owe no taxes but got hit with a state tax bill.
Kristian Bishop
I actually work in payroll and see this situation fairly often. Here's what's happening: The IRS has systems that flag unusual patterns in W2 reporting. Two simultaneous full-time jobs (80+ hours weekly) looks statistically unlikely, so the system flags it as potential identity theft. Some additional advice: Your friend should keep ALL documentation from both employers proving he works at both places (offer letters, paystubs, etc). Also, there's nothing illegal about working two full-time jobs (unless one employer specifically prohibits it in their contract), but it's worth checking both employee handbooks to make sure he's not violating any company policies.
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Kaitlyn Otto
ā¢Would this still happen if the two jobs are in different states? I'm considering taking a remote position while keeping my current job, but they're in different states and I'm worried about triggering something like this.
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Kristian Bishop
ā¢Yes, it would still likely trigger a flag even with jobs in different states. The IRS systems look at the total reported income under your SSN regardless of which states the W2s come from. In fact, having W2s from multiple states might make it even more likely to trigger their identity theft algorithms. For your remote position situation, just be prepared to potentially deal with this verification process. It's not a huge problem, just an extra step. Also be aware you'll need to file state tax returns for both states in most cases, which adds some complexity to your tax situation.
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Axel Far
This happened to me last year! Two full-time remote jobs and got that identity theft letter. Just follow the instructions on the letter exactly. Mine was a 5071C and I had to verify through the ID.me process on the IRS website and answer questions about both jobs. Took about 10 minutes to verify online and my return was processed about 6 weeks later. No big deal but definitely respond asap!!
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Jasmine Hernandez
ā¢Which software did you use to file? I'm wondering if certain tax software handles multiple W2s better than others to avoid triggering these flags.
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