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Don't forget about tax treaties! The US has tax treaties with many countries (including Singapore) that can prevent double taxation. These treaties don't eliminate your filing obligations, but they can reduce what you actually owe. Look into the Foreign Earned Income Exclusion (Form 2555) and Foreign Tax Credit (Form 1116) too. For 2024 tax year (filing in 2025), you can exclude up to $126,500 of foreign earned income if you meet either the bona fide residence test or the physical presence test. Singapore also has pretty high tax rates, so credits for taxes paid there might offset any US tax liability.
Thank you! I didn't even think about tax treaties. Does the Foreign Earned Income Exclusion apply automatically or do I have to explicitly claim it? And does it cover just my salary or also things like investment gains?
You need to explicitly claim the Foreign Earned Income Exclusion by filing Form 2555 with your tax return. It doesn't happen automatically, and many people miss out on it because they don't know to claim it. The exclusion only applies to earned income (like your salary, wages, or self-employment income) - it doesn't cover investment income, capital gains, interest, or dividends. For investment income, you'd want to look at the Foreign Tax Credit on Form 1116, which can give you credit for taxes paid to Singapore on that income. The combination of these two tax benefits often means expats end up owing little or no additional US tax, but you still have to file and report everything.
Random question - does anyone know if crypto held on foreign exchanges counts for FBAR reporting? I've got some Bitcoin on a Singapore-based exchange and not sure if I need to include it.
Currently, the IRS hasn't explicitly stated that crypto on foreign exchanges must be reported on FBARs, though this may change. However, to be safe, many tax professionals recommend including it. You definitely need to report any gains or losses from crypto transactions on your tax return regardless of where the exchange is located.
Don't forget about Section 195 of the tax code! You can elect to deduct up to $5k of your startup costs in the year your business becomes active, and then amortize any remaining startup costs over 15 years. But the $5k immediate deduction starts getting reduced if your total startup costs exceed $50k (which doesn't sound like an issue in your case). The key is that you have to make this election in the year your business becomes active. If you don't make the election, you have to amortize ALL the costs over 15 years instead of getting that immediate $5k deduction.
Wait, so this is an "election" we have to specifically make? How do we do that? Is there a specific form or do we just deduct the $5k on our Schedule C?
You make the election by attaching a statement to your tax return for the year your business begins operations. The statement needs to include the amount you're electing to deduct, a description of the expenses, and the month your business began active operations. You'll also report the actual deduction on either Schedule C (for sole proprietors) or your business entity return. The remaining amount over $5,000 would then be amortized over 15 years starting with the month your business began. Most tax software will walk you through this if you indicate you have startup costs, but it's good to be aware of the requirement for the election statement.
Make sure you're tracking these expenses properly from the beginning! I messed up my first year in business by just throwing all receipts in a shoebox and trying to sort it out at tax time. NIGHTMARE. For your daycare business, you should set up separate categories right now: - Supplies (consumable items like art supplies, cleaning products) - Equipment (durable goods like furniture, play structures) - Professional services (licensing fees, legal costs) - Marketing/advertising - Insurance - Training/education costs Trust me, you'll thank yourself next April!
Another option is to print out the relevant section from IRS Publication 544 which specifically addresses this. Page 3 explicitly states that "basis is the amount of your investment in property for tax purposes. The basis of property you buy is usually its cost." There's nothing in there about the basis being limited to purchases in the current tax year because that's not how it works. You could also show examples of Schedule D and Form 8949 where previous year purchases are clearly reported in the current year's tax forms when sold.
Thanks for the suggestion about Publication 544! I just pulled it up and found the exact section you mentioned. I'm going to email this to my tax preparer tonight along with a few examples. If she still doesn't get it after reading the IRS's own publication, I think I'll definitely need to find someone new to help with my taxes. Really appreciate everyone's help here. It's been driving me crazy thinking I was missing something obvious!
Glad I could help! Just to add one more resource - if you look at the actual Form 8949 instructions, there's a worksheet that clearly shows how to report transactions where the purchase and sale dates are in different years. That might be the most direct evidence to show your preparer. Good luck! And yes, if she still doesn't understand after seeing the actual IRS guidelines, it might be time to find someone with more experience in investment taxation.
I had a very similar issue last year. My tax guy had never dealt with crypto before and was making the same mistake. What finally got through to him was when I compared it to real estate - if you buy a house in 2010 and sell it in 2023, you don't just report the selling price on your 2023 taxes with no reference to what you originally paid! The same principle applies to literally any capital asset - stocks, bonds, crypto, collectibles, etc. The year you establish your cost basis and the year you realize the gain/loss can be (and often are) different.
That real estate comparison is perfect! Makes it super clear even for people who don't understand investments.
This might be unpopular, but I've started charging extra for clients who bring in disorganized or obviously fake records. I have a tiered pricing structure - clients with proper bookkeeping pay my standard rate, while those with "creative accounting" pay 1.5-2x more to compensate for the additional work and risk. I explain this policy upfront so there are no surprises. Some clients clean up their act to avoid the higher fees, and others are willing to pay extra for me to sort through their mess. Either way, I'm compensated for the headache.
Do you have any suggestions for how to determine what falls into the "higher fee" category? Do you have specific criteria or is it more of a judgment call?
I've developed a pretty clear checklist that I review with clients in our initial consultation. Higher fees apply if their records show: unsorted receipts/statements, missing months of data, personal expenses mixed with business, revenues that don't match 1099s or bank deposits, or rounded numbers for most expenses (like you mentioned). I also charge more if they bring everything in last minute (less than 3 weeks before deadline) or if they have no formal bookkeeping system at all. Having clear criteria makes it less personal and more about the actual work involved. I've found being transparent about this from the start weeds out problem clients and encourages others to get organized.
Am I the only one who actually just refuses these clients? After being burned a few times early in my career, I now have a strict policy: no proper books = no service. Life's too short and my license is too valuable.
Jacinda Yu
My company did a mandatory W4 update last year and it was a mess. HR sent us all these complicated spreadsheets trying to explain the new system but nobody understood them. What ended up working for me was just using the "Tax Withholding Estimator" on the IRS website and following the steps exactly. Make sure you have these things ready before you start: - Your most recent paystubs (yours and your husband's) - Last year's tax return - Estimated income from other sources (interest, dividends, etc) It takes about 15 minutes but gives you the exact numbers to put on the form. My withholding was almost perfect last year - only owed $78 at tax time.
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Landon Flounder
β’Did the estimator handle bonuses correctly? I get about 20% of my income from quarterly bonuses and those are always withheld at a different rate. Every calculator I've tried seems to mess that part up.
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Jacinda Yu
β’The estimator does handle bonuses, but you have to enter them correctly. There's a specific section where you can enter expected bonuses separately from your regular salary. It will then factor in that bonuses are typically withheld at the 22% supplemental rate rather than your normal withholding rate. When I used it, I had to enter my annual salary in one field and then my expected bonus in the separate bonus field. Don't combine them or it will calculate as if all your income is withheld at the same rate. That was probably the issue with other calculators you've tried.
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Callum Savage
Anyone else notice that the new W4 withholding seems to take WAY more out than the old system? We updated ours last month and my takehome pay dropped by almost $300/paycheck! Seems like they designed the new system to massively overwithhold.
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Ally Tailer
β’You might have checked the box in Step 2(c) for "multiple jobs" without realizing what it does. That box basically tells your employer to withhold at single rates which is much higher. Try redoing the form without checking that box and instead use the withholding estimator to calculate a specific extra amount to withhold on line 4(c).
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Callum Savage
β’You're totally right! I just checked my form and I DID check that box plus I had also put an additional amount on line 4(c). So I was essentially double-counting the extra withholding needed. HR gave me a new form to fill out today and I'm only going to use the specific dollar amount approach instead. Thanks for catching that!
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