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Has anyone used any tax software that makes amending 1099s easier? I'm using QuickBooks and it's not very intuitive for handling corrections.
I've had good experiences with Track1099 for corrections. Their interface is really straightforward for amendments - there's literally a "create correction" button that walks you through the process step by step.
Thanks for the recommendation! I'll check out Track1099. QuickBooks has been a nightmare for this - it keeps wanting me to create new 1099s from scratch without any way to mark them as corrections properly.
Zara Khan
Just a heads up - if your original 1099 had an incorrect TIN (tax ID number) for the contractor, the correction process is slightly different. You'll need to: 1. Create a new 1099 with all zeros in the amount boxes 2. Mark it as "CORRECTED" 3. Submit this to void the original 4. Then create another NEW 1099 with the correct TIN and amounts 5. Don't mark this one as "CORRECTED" Made this mistake last year and had to redo everything a third time.
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Another option that hasn't been mentioned - if you have good credit, you might consider a personal loan to pay the IRS in full, then pay back the loan over time. Sometimes the interest rate on a personal loan can be lower than the combined interest and penalties from the IRS (which can run about 8-10% annually when combined). Credit unions often have the best rates. I did this a few years back when I owed about $9k, got a loan at 6.5% which saved me money versus the IRS plan.
Carmen Vega
ā¢Thanks for suggesting this. Do you know if taking out a loan would impact my credit score significantly? Mine's currently around 720 and I'm trying to save up for a house in the next year or two.
There would be a small initial dip when the lender does a hard credit pull, maybe 5-10 points. Then your score might drop a little more when the new account appears, reducing your average account age. However, if you make all payments on time, your score should recover within a few months and potentially go even higher as you demonstrate responsible payment history. The biggest risk to your score would be from missing payments on the loan, which would be much worse than the temporary dips from opening the account.
Just a heads up - don't ignore this or miss the filing deadline even if you can't pay! File on time and pay whatever you can, even if it's just a small amount. The failure-to-file penalty is much worse than the failure-to-pay penalty. Failure-to-file is 5% of your unpaid taxes for each month your return is late, up to 25%. Failure-to-pay is only 0.5% per month, up to 25%. Also, make sure you request the payment plan before the tax deadline if possible. I learned this the hard way!
Dylan Cooper
ā¢This is super important advice. I put off filing one year because I couldn't pay, and those failure-to-file penalties were brutal. Ended up owing way more than I would have if I'd just filed and set up a payment plan right away.
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Something to keep in mind - even with the 20% they withheld, you might still owe more depending on your tax bracket. I took a distribution last year and had 20% withheld but still ended up owing more at tax time because that withholding wasn't enough to cover both the regular income tax AND the 10% early withdrawal penalty.
Lauren Zeb
ā¢That's a good point I hadn't considered! Do you know if there's a way to figure out ahead of time how much I might owe? My tax bracket is probably around 22% this year.
You can use the IRS withholding calculator on their website to get a rough estimate of what you might owe based on your overall situation. With a 22% tax bracket plus the potential 10% penalty if no exceptions apply, you'd be looking at approximately 32% total tax on the withdrawal. A lot of people get surprised by this because the mandatory 20% withholding seems like it should be enough, but it often isn't. If you want to avoid a surprise tax bill, you might consider making an estimated tax payment to cover the difference.
One more thing - make sure you keep the 1099-R form you'll get in January or February. Your 401k administrator is required to send this to you and it shows the total distribution and taxes withheld. You'll need this document when filing your taxes.
Also make sure the info on the 1099-R is correct! My plan administrator messed up and showed I took out $15k when it was actually only $5k. Was a nightmare to fix and delayed my refund by months.
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Has anyone used TurboTax instead of TaxSlayer? I'm wondering if it handles the 1098 form differently. Last year I switched from TaxSlayer to TurboTax and found the mortgage section much easier to understand.
Mateo Silva
ā¢I used both last year to compare them (before submitting with one). TurboTax was clearer about the 1098 boxes but charged extra for the mortgage deduction forms. TaxSlayer includes all that in their basic price, which is why I stuck with them.
Thanks for sharing your experience! Good to know about the pricing difference. I think I'll stick with TurboTax this year since I'm already familiar with it, but it's frustrating they charge extra for something TaxSlayer includes. Maybe I'll compare both again next year.
Sorry to hijack, but this thread reminded me - did anyone else notice that they changed some of the 1098 form options for 2025? Box 10 specifically mentions "mortgage insurance premiums" now instead of just "insurance" like it used to. Makes it clearer what belongs there. I think the IRS finally realized people were confused!
Olivia Evans
16 One thing nobody's mentioned yet - check if you qualify for an Offer in Compromise. If you genuinely cannot pay the full amount, the IRS might accept less than the full payment. You can use the pre-qualifier tool on the IRS website to see if you might be eligible: https://irs.treasury.gov/oic_pre_qualifier/ I went through this process after a messy divorce left me with tax debt I couldn't handle. The process is lengthy and you need to provide extensive financial documentation, but it can be worth it if you truly can't pay.
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Olivia Evans
ā¢11 Is there a minimum amount of tax debt for an Offer in Compromise to be worth it? I owe about $6,500 which is a lot for me right now but not like tens of thousands.
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Olivia Evans
ā¢16 There's no minimum amount required for an Offer in Compromise, but the process is intensive enough that it's usually pursued for larger debts. For $6,500, a payment plan might be simpler unless you have extreme financial hardship. The IRS looks at your ability to pay, income, expenses, and asset equity. They essentially ask: "Could we reasonably expect to collect more from you over time than what you're offering now?" If your financial situation is truly dire with no improvement in sight, it could be worthwhile even for smaller amounts.
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Olivia Evans
20 Whatever you do, DO NOT ignore this or fail to file! I made that mistake a few years back and ended up owing way more in penalties and interest than my original tax bill. File your return by April 15 even if you can't pay a cent. Also, credit card payments are technically an option through third-party processors, but they charge processing fees around 2% AND you'd be paying the high credit card interest. Usually better to go with an IRS payment plan where the combined penalties and interest often work out to less than credit card interest.
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Olivia Evans
ā¢3 Would it make sense to put like half on a credit card (the amount I could pay off in 2-3 months) and then get on a payment plan for the rest? My tax bill is around $4300 and I could probably handle about $2000 on my card.
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