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One approach I've found helpful is using the specific identification method when selling investments. This lets me choose exactly which shares to sell - typically the ones with the highest basis to minimize gains. Most brokerages allow this now, and it's much more tax-efficient than FIFO or average cost methods. For tracking, I just maintain a simple spreadsheet with columns for: - Original investment date and amount - Growth (unrealized gains) - Principal withdrawals (date and amount) - Remaining principal available for tax-free withdrawal Works well for my homegrown dividend strategy and takes minimal time to maintain.
Do you have to notify your brokerage which specific shares you want to sell before the sale, or can you do it afterward when filing taxes?
You need to specify which shares you want to sell at the time of the sale - you can't decide later when filing taxes. Most online brokerages have an option during the sell process where you can choose "Specific Identification" instead of FIFO (First In, First Out) or average cost. When you choose specific identification, you'll be able to select the exact lots (shares purchased on specific dates at specific prices) that you want to sell. This gives you maximum control over the tax implications of your sales and is essential for an effective homegrown dividend strategy.
Has anyone here dealt with homegrown dividends in retirement accounts vs taxable accounts? I'm trying to figure out how this works with my Roth IRA where the contributions are already post-tax.
For Roth IRAs, the withdrawal rules are a bit different. You can always withdraw your contributions (principal) tax and penalty free at any time. It's actually even simpler than with taxable accounts because you don't need to worry about specific identification of lots. The IRS considers withdrawals from Roth IRAs to come from contributions first, then conversions, then earnings. So you can just keep track of your total contributions over the years, and as long as your withdrawals don't exceed that amount, they're completely tax-free.
Something that worked great with my kids was creating a mini economy at home! Each kid gets "paid" for chores, then we collect "income tax" (15%) and "property tax" for their bedrooms (flat amount). The collected taxes go into a family fund that we use for things everyone benefits from - like pizza night or a movie rental. When they complained about taxes, we tried a week without them - but also without the shared benefits. No pizza, no movie night, no restocking their favorite snacks. They quickly realized that pooling resources sometimes makes sense!
This sounds like a fantastic idea! Did you have any specific way you tracked everything? I'm worried about making it too complicated but love the real-world application.
Nothing fancy! We just use a simple chart on the refrigerator with magnets. Each kid has a section with their weekly "income" from chores, then two columns showing taxes collected and take-home pay. The family fund is a jar on the counter where the tax money goes. You definitely want to keep it simple - the point is just to visualize the concept, not create an accounting nightmare for yourself! My kids actually get excited on "budget day" when we decide how to spend the family fund. Sometimes they even vote to save it for something bigger. It's been a great lesson in collective decision-making too.
Using Monopoly worked wonders for my kids! We play with real tax rules - 10% income tax when passing GO (instead of the full $200, they get $180), luxury tax on the fancy properties, and we even added property tax based on houses/hotels. Suddenly they understood why people try to get tax breaks! We also created "public services" with some of the tax money - if someone lands in jail, they can use the public fund to get out for free. It made taxes feel like insurance rather than just money disappearing.
Here's a simple breakdown of the main sections on a Robinhood 1099-B: 1A: Short-term transactions with basis reported to the IRS 1B: Short-term transactions with basis NOT reported to the IRS 1D: Proceeds from broker transactions (total sales amount) 1E: Cost basis (what you paid) 1G: Gain or loss (what you're actually taxed on) The large number in 1D is just the total dollar amount of ALL your stock sales combined - like if you bought $1000 of stock and sold it at $1100, then that $1100 goes in 1D, but you're only taxed on the $100 profit.
What about wash sales? My 1099 has some adjustments in a column labeled with a "W" and I'm not sure what to do with those.
Wash sales happen when you sell a stock at a loss and then buy the same or a substantially identical stock within 30 days before or after the sale. When this happens, you can't immediately claim the loss for tax purposes. The "W" column on your 1099 indicates the amount of loss that was disallowed due to wash sale rules. The cost basis of your replacement shares is increased by this amount, which means you'll eventually get the tax benefit of that loss when you finally sell the replacement shares (assuming you don't trigger another wash sale). When entering this information into tax software, make sure you include the wash sale adjustment exactly as shown on your 1099. Most tax programs have specific fields for this. If you have multiple wash sales, it can get complicated quickly, which is why some people use specialized tax software or services for investment income.
I used to be a tax preparer and saw this confusion ALL THE TIME. One thing not mentioned yet: check if your Robinhood 1099 has supplemental information pages. They often include a summary that breaks down your actual taxable gains/losses more clearly than the main form. The IRS only cares about your profits/losses, not the total amount of money that moved through your account. The big number in section 1D freaks everyone out, but it's just the sum of all your sales, regardless of whether you made or lost money on those transactions.
Do you have to report every single transaction or can you just report the summary totals? I made like 50 trades last year and don't want to enter them all individually.
Make sure you track mileage if you're going to the post office to ship items or buying supplies in person! That's deductible too and most people forget about it. I use an app to track all my drives related to my PayPal business.
Do I need to keep physical receipts for all the supplies I buy or are digital records okay? My CPA is pretty old school and I'm not sure what's actually required.
Digital records are perfectly acceptable for the IRS! I take pictures of all my receipts with my phone and organize them by month in Google Drive. Many CPAs now prefer digital because it's easier to search and organize. That said, if your CPA prefers physical copies, you might want to print them out just to make the process smoother on their end. But legally speaking, digital receipts have the same validity as paper ones as long as they clearly show the date, vendor, amount, and what was purchased.
Don't forget about the home office deduction if you make your jewelry at home! You can deduct a portion of your rent/mortgage, utilities, internet, etc. My paypal business saved me almost $2,000 in taxes last year because of this deduction.
Be careful with home office deductions though. You need a space used EXCLUSIVELY for business, not just your kitchen table where you also eat dinner. That's where a lot of people get in trouble.
Emma Johnson
One thing nobody's mentioned - if you're self-employed and haven't filed for years, you may also have missed paying self-employment taxes. This means you haven't been paying into Social Security and Medicare, which could affect your benefits later. When you file your back returns, make sure your tax pro properly completes Schedule SE for each year. Also, don't forget to address estimated tax payments going forward. Once you're back in the system, the IRS will expect you to make quarterly estimated payments since you're self-employed with substantial income. Getting on a proper estimated payment schedule will prevent this problem from happening again.
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Arjun Kurti
ā¢That's a really good point I hadn't considered. Do you know if there's any way to "make up" for those missed Social Security contributions? Or am I just permanently losing those quarters of coverage for retirement calculations?
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Emma Johnson
ā¢When you file your back returns with Schedule SE for each year, you'll essentially be making up those Social Security and Medicare contributions (albeit with penalties and interest). The good news is that once you pay these taxes, those quarters will count toward your coverage for Social Security benefit calculations. There's no permanent loss of credit. The bad news is that self-employment tax is a significant amount (about 15.3% of your net earnings) on top of income tax. This often catches people by surprise when filing back returns. Make sure your tax professional looks for all legitimate business deductions on Schedule C to reduce your net profit, which in turn reduces your self-employment tax liability.
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Liam Brown
Not sure if anyone mentioned this, but consider opening with a current year return. Start fresh with 2023 (due next month) and get it filed on time. This demonstrates good faith to the IRS and starts establishing compliance going forward while you work backward on the unfiled years. Also, keep in mind the difference between "substitute for returns" (SFRs) and returns you file yourself. If the IRS filed SFRs for any years (they sometimes do this when you don't file), you'll still need to file your own returns to claim deductions they wouldn't have included.
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Olivia Garcia
ā¢This is solid advice. I did exactly this when dealing with my unfiled returns. Filed the current year on time, then worked backwards. The revenue officer specifically mentioned this showed "good faith" and it seemed to help during negotiations. Also helped psychologically to feel like I wasn't continuing to dig the hole deeper.
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