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I'm a tax preparer (not a CPA) and see this all the time with gig workers. Here's a simplified explanation: The Earned Income Credit has a "bell curve" - as your income increases, the credit increases until it hits a peak, then starts decreasing. If your income is around $15,000-$20,000 (depends on filing status), adding business deductions could push you DOWN the curve, meaning less credit. Example: Say you made $18,000 in delivery income, and have $10,000 in mileage deductions. Your actual business income becomes $8,000. If the peak EIC is at $15,000 for your situation, you're now getting less credit than if you had $15,000 of income. It's completely legitimate to claim all your business miles - you SHOULD claim them. But this is why your refund might go down when you add them.
Thanks for explaining this so clearly. So if I'm understanding right, I should still claim all my legitimate miles even if it lowers my refund? I don't want to get in trouble by trying to manipulate my return.
Yes, you should absolutely claim all legitimate business expenses, including your mileage. The goal of tax filing isn't to maximize your refund - it's to accurately report your income and expenses. Not claiming legitimate expenses because it gives you a larger refund could potentially be problematic if you're audited. The IRS would expect to see business expenses for a delivery driver. Plus, if your income changes next year, those same deductions might actually help you more than hurt you.
Is anyone else having issues with the mileage tracker on the FreeTaxUSA self-employment section? It keeps resetting my numbers.
I had that problem! Found out it happens if you go back and change info on a previous page. Try entering all your income info first, then don't go back to those pages before adding your mileage.
Honestly with all those different forms and income sources, you should definitely hire someone this first time. I tried doing mine myself last year with multiple 1099s and crypto and ended up missing a bunch of deductions. Paid an accountant this year who found like $2,800 more in refunds than I would have gotten doing it myself. Ask friends for recommendations for accountants who work with younger people/first time filers. Many offer student discounts. And the money you spend will likely be saved in either reduced tax liability or avoiding penalties for mistakes.
How much did it cost you to hire an accountant? That's my concern - I'm on a pretty tight budget.
I paid $275 for my tax preparation, but my situation was pretty complex (multiple states, business income, investments). For your first-time filing with a somewhat simpler situation, you might find someone for $150-200. Some accountants also offer sliding scale fees for students or first-time filers. The value really comes from learning how everything works so you can potentially do it yourself in future years. Ask them to explain what they're doing as they go, and take notes about which forms apply to your situation. Consider it both a tax service and an education investment.
If your income isn't crazy high, check if there's a VITA (Volunteer Income Tax Assistance) program near you. They do free tax prep for people making under $60k. I used them when I was in college and they handled my W-2s, 1098-T, and even some basic investment stuff. Not sure about crypto though.
VITA is great but sometimes they won't help with self-employment (the 1099 stuff) or more complex situations. Worth checking though since each location has different capabilities.
Another option nobody's mentioned yet - if you used an IP PIN last year, check your old tax return! Your previous year's tax software might have saved a copy of the form with your IP PIN on it. I lost mine last year and nearly panicked until I realized I had a saved PDF of my entire return from the previous year which included the IP PIN letter. Might be worth checking your email for tax receipt confirmations too - sometimes they include that info. If that doesn't work, definitely try the specialized unit number (800-908-4490) that someone mentioned above - they're usually more accessible than the main IRS lines.
This is great advice! I just checked my old emails and found my TurboTax confirmation from last year which had my IP PIN information in the attached PDF. Saved me so much hassle! Definitely check your email archives before going through the whole recovery process.
Has anyone had success getting their refund without the IP PIN? I'm wondering if I can just file without it and explain the situation on the return somehow? I'm worried my stimulus money will go to someone else if I don't file soon.
DO NOT file without your IP PIN if you've been issued one! The IRS automatically rejects returns filed with your SSN that don't include the correct IP PIN. It triggers their fraud detection system and can cause even bigger delays and potential audits. Always get a replacement PIN through the proper channels before filing.
Based on my experience settling my cousin's estate, you absolutely need a tax professional who specializes in estates with tax problems. I'd recommend looking for an Enrolled Agent rather than a CPA - they often charge less but have specific expertise in dealing with the IRS. You should find someone in the deceased's state since they'll be familiar with both the state tax laws and potentially have relationships with the local IRS office. Most work can be done remotely, but having someone who understands the local requirements is invaluable. One thing nobody mentioned - if the estate doesn't have enough liquid assets to pay the tax debt, you might qualify for an Offer in Compromise specifically for estates. An EA can help determine if that's feasible given your situation.
Thanks for this advice. I've been looking at professionals online, but wasn't sure about the CPA vs EA distinction. Do you know if there's a national directory specifically for EAs who specialize in estate tax issues?
The National Association of Enrolled Agents (NAEA) has a directory on their website where you can search by specialty, including estate and trust taxation. Just go to the NAEA website and look for their "Find an EA" feature. I'd also recommend calling a few estate attorneys in the deceased's city - they typically work closely with tax specialists who handle complex estate matters and can make solid recommendations. When you talk to potential EAs, specifically ask about their experience with unfiled returns and IRS collections for deceased taxpayers, as this is a specialized area.
One warning from my own experience - do NOT file any tax returns yet until you get the transcripts and understand what the IRS already has on record! I made this mistake with my father's estate and created a huge mess. Get Form 56 filed first to establish your authority, then get the account transcripts which will show assessments and balances. Also request the wage and income transcripts which show all income reported to the IRS on forms like W-2, 1099, etc. If the IRS has already made assessments (called Substitute for Returns), filing returns without understanding what they've already processed can create duplicate assessments or conflicting information that takes forever to resolve. You mentioned liens - check the exact type of lien. If it's a "Notice of Federal Tax Lien," that's public and affects property sales. If it's just a "Notice of Intent to Lien," you might still have time to request a Collection Due Process hearing.
What's the difference between account transcripts and wage/income transcripts? Aren't they the same thing?
Adaline Wong
I'm a payroll administrator, and I see this confusion all the time with employees. The way Box 12c works is that it shows the TOTAL CONTRIBUTIONS to qualified plans, not just what the employer contributed. Your contributions were already taken out pre-tax, meaning they've already reduced your taxable wages in Box 1. If you were to enter your contributions separately when filing taxes, you'd essentially be double-dipping on the tax benefit. That's why your tax due dropped dramatically when you did that - but it would be incorrect and could potentially trigger an audit.
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Jungleboo Soletrain
β’This makes sense now! So just to be 100% clear - I should just use the W-2 exactly as is and not try to separate out what I contributed vs what my employer contributed when filing, right? And if I'm using tax software, should I just enter the W-2 information exactly as it appears on the form?
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Adaline Wong
β’Yes, that's exactly right! You should use the W-2 exactly as is and not try to separate your contributions from your employer's when filing. The tax software is designed to handle this correctly when you enter your W-2 information as it appears on the form. Your pre-tax contributions have already reduced your taxable wages in Box 1, which is the primary tax benefit. Box 12c simply reports the total qualified retirement plan contributions for informational purposes and to ensure compliance with annual contribution limits. Trying to separate them out would incorrectly give you a double tax benefit.
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Gabriel Ruiz
Has anyone noticed that the way this is reported seems designed to confuse people? I almost made this same mistake last year. I think the form should clearly indicate "employee contributions" and "employer contributions" separately instead of lumping them together. Would save so many people headaches!
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Misterclamation Skyblue
β’Totally agree! The tax code and forms seem deliberately confusing. I've been doing my own taxes for 15 years and still learn something new every year. The IRS could make this so much clearer with better labeling.
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