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Quick tip: make sure you're correctly classifying people as contractors vs employees. This is my biggest nightmare as a business owner. If you're telling them WHEN, WHERE and HOW to do the work, the IRS might consider them employees, not contractors. The difference matters ALOT because for employees you need to withhold taxes, pay unemployment insurance, etc. For contractors you just send a 1099. Getting this wrong can result in huge penalties and back taxes!
This is so important! I got audited last year because I misclassified someone. Look up the IRS 20-factor test for determining worker status. Saved me from making the same mistake again this year.
Exactly! The 20-factor test is a good starting point, but the IRS has somewhat simplified it into three main categories to consider: Behavioral Control (do you control how they do their work?), Financial Control (do they have their own business expenses, tools, etc.?), and Relationship Type (written contracts, benefits, ongoing relationship). If you're at all unsure, you can file Form SS-8 with the IRS to get a determination. It takes a while to get a response, but it's better than guessing wrong and facing penalties. Another option is to run the scenario by a tax professional who specializes in this area - well worth the consultation fee for peace of mind.
Great advice from everyone here! I'm actually dealing with a similar situation right now where I have about 6 subcontractors for a large project. One thing I learned the hard way is to get those W-9 forms BEFORE you make any payments, not after. I made the mistake of paying two contractors first and then asking for their W-9s later - one of them completely ghosted me and the other took weeks to respond. Now I'm scrambling to get the paperwork sorted before year-end. Also, keep detailed records of exactly what services each contractor provided and when. The IRS can ask for this documentation if there are any questions about your 1099 filings. I use a simple project tracking spreadsheet that includes dates, amounts, and description of work performed for each contractor. Makes tax time so much easier!
This is such valuable advice! I'm completely new to this whole process and hadn't even thought about the timing of getting W-9s vs payments. That's a rookie mistake I definitely would have made. Quick question - when you say "detailed records of services," how specific do you need to be? Like is "web development work" enough or do you need to break it down further like "frontend development for project X, phase 2"? I want to make sure I'm documenting everything properly from the start. Also, did you end up having any issues with the contractor who ghosted you? I'm worried about what happens if I can't get a W-9 from someone after I've already paid them.
I did doordash last year and messed up my taxes by not tracking my miles properly. KEEP A MILEAGE LOG starting today!! The standard mileage deduction was worth waaaaay more than itemizing all my other expenses. Download a mileage tracking app that records your trips automatically. I use Stride and it saved me over $1800 in taxes last year just from mileage deductions alone.
Do you track miles from your house to your first delivery? Or only between deliveries? I've heard different things and don't want to do it wrong.
You can deduct miles from your home to your first pickup AND between deliveries AND from your last delivery back home - as long as you're actively working. The key is that you need to be "in business mode." So if you drive from home to start your DoorDash shift, that's deductible. Miles between deliveries are definitely deductible. And the drive home after your last delivery counts too. What you CAN'T deduct is driving from home to your regular W-2 job, or personal errands you run while the DoorDash app happens to be on. Make sure your mileage app distinguishes between business and personal trips!
Hey Paige! I totally get your stress about this - I was in the exact same boat when I started doing gig work alongside my regular job. The good news is that it's really not as complicated as it seems once you understand the basics. Since you have both W-2 and 1099 income, you'll file everything on one tax return but they're handled differently. Your DoorDash income goes on Schedule C (business income/loss), where you can deduct all your legitimate business expenses. Your W-2 income gets reported separately like always. For deductions, you're on the right track thinking about that tablet and hot bags - both are 100% deductible as business expenses since they're specifically for DoorDash. Keep receipts for everything! You can also deduct things like: - Mileage (usually your biggest deduction - track every business mile!) - Portion of phone bill used for business - Car accessories like phone mounts, chargers - Parking fees while delivering - Even a percentage of car washes if you clean your car to maintain professional appearance The key is keeping good records. Start tracking your mileage NOW if you haven't already - that alone will probably save you hundreds in taxes. Don't stress too much, you've got time to get organized before filing season!
This is super helpful! I'm also new to gig work and had no idea about tracking car washes as a deduction. Quick question - when you say "portion of phone bill," how do you actually calculate what percentage to use? Do you just estimate or is there a specific way the IRS wants you to figure that out?
I went through this exact same process last year with my SPX options and futures trading! The confusion is totally understandable - TurboTax's interface for 1256 contracts isn't very intuitive. Here's what worked for me: After searching for "Form 6781" and selecting "Yes" for having 1256 contracts, the key is to use the summary amounts from your 1099-B rather than trying to enter individual trades. Your broker should have a specific section for 1256 contracts that shows your total gains/losses. One thing that tripped me up initially was making sure I didn't double-enter these amounts in both the regular capital gains section AND Form 6781. The 1256 contracts should ONLY go in Form 6781, not in the regular stock trading sections. With $14,500 in realized profits, you'll benefit from that 60/40 split (60% long-term, 40% short-term) regardless of how long you held the positions. TurboTax will calculate this automatically once you enter your totals correctly. The "marked to market" question should be "No" unless you've made a special trader election with the IRS, which most retail traders haven't done.
This is really helpful, thank you! I'm new to trading these types of contracts and was getting overwhelmed by all the different forms and rules. One quick follow-up question - when you say "summary amounts from your 1099-B," should I be looking for a specific box number or section? My 1099-B has a lot of different sections and I want to make sure I'm pulling the right numbers for Form 6781. Also, does it matter if some of my SPX trades were spreads (like iron condors) versus single options, or do they all get treated the same way for 1256 purposes?
Great question about the 1099-B sections! You'll want to look for a section specifically labeled something like "Section 1256 Contracts" or "Regulated Futures Contracts" - it's usually in a separate section from your regular stock trades. Some brokers put it at the bottom of the 1099-B or on a supplemental page. If you can't find a dedicated section, look for trades that are specifically marked as "1256" in the description. For your SPX spreads like iron condors, they absolutely get the same 1256 treatment as single options! The IRS doesn't differentiate between simple and complex strategies when it comes to Section 1256 contracts. Each leg of your iron condor that involves SPX options will be treated as a 1256 contract. Your broker should have already calculated the net profit/loss from all the legs combined, so you just need the total amounts. One tip: if your broker didn't break out 1256 contracts clearly, you can manually identify them by looking for trades with underlying symbols like SPX, VIX, RUT, or any futures contracts. These all qualify for 1256 treatment regardless of the strategy complexity.
I just went through this exact situation a few months ago when filing my taxes for last year's SPX options trading. The Form 6781 process in TurboTax definitely isn't as straightforward as it should be! One thing that really helped me was double-checking my broker's classification of the trades. I found that my broker had actually missed categorizing a few of my SPX trades as 1256 contracts on the initial 1099-B, but they issued a corrected version later. You might want to verify that all your SPX options and futures are properly marked as Section 1256 contracts on your forms. Also, keep in mind that if you have any wash sale adjustments related to your 1256 contracts, those will need special handling since the wash sale rules work differently for Section 1256 contracts compared to regular securities. The good news is that once you get past the initial confusion, the 60/40 tax treatment actually works out pretty favorably compared to short-term capital gains rates on regular trades. With your $14,500 profit, you'll definitely benefit from having 60% of that treated as long-term gains. If you run into any snags with the TurboTax interface, don't hesitate to reach out - this community has been really helpful for navigating these more complex trading tax situations!
Thanks for mentioning the wash sale adjustments - that's something I hadn't considered! I did have some losing positions that I closed and then reopened similar positions within 30 days. How exactly do wash sales work differently for 1256 contracts? Do I need to make manual adjustments in TurboTax, or does the software handle it automatically when I enter the corrected basis amounts from my 1099-B? Also, you mentioned checking for corrected 1099-B forms - my broker did issue a supplemental statement a few weeks after the original. Should I be combining both forms when entering the totals into Form 6781, or does the supplemental replace the original entirely?
One additional consideration that hasn't been mentioned yet - make sure you understand the timing of when your mom needs to report any capital gains. Even though she may qualify for the $250,000 exclusion on her primary residence, she'll still need to report the sale on her tax return for the year it closes. Since you're managing her finances with the POA, you'll likely be responsible for ensuring this gets reported correctly. The sale should be reported on Schedule D and Form 8949, even if no tax is owed due to the exclusion. Also, if your mom has any cognitive decline that affects her ability to understand financial matters, you might want to consider having a tax professional handle her return for the year of the sale. The documentation requirements and potential complexity of reporting a home sale while managing someone else's finances through a POA can be tricky to navigate solo.
This is such an important point that I wish I had known earlier! I'm currently helping my grandmother with her finances through a POA, and we just sold her condo last month. I had no idea that the sale still needed to be reported even if no tax is owed due to the exclusion. I've been doing her taxes myself for the past few years since they're usually pretty straightforward, but you're absolutely right that a home sale adds complexity. Between calculating the correct basis, documenting all the improvements over the years, and making sure I report everything correctly while acting as her POA, it feels like a lot of responsibility. Do you have any recommendations for finding a tax professional who has experience with POA situations? I want to make sure I find someone who understands both the tax implications and the fiduciary responsibilities that come with managing someone else's finances.
For finding a tax professional experienced with POA situations, I'd recommend looking for either a CPA or Enrolled Agent who specifically mentions elder law or estate planning in their practice areas. You can search the IRS directory of credentialed tax professionals and filter by location and specialties. When you call to interview potential candidates, ask specifically about their experience with POA tax situations and home sales for elderly clients. A good professional should be able to explain how they handle the documentation requirements and what records they'll need from you. Also consider reaching out to any elder law attorneys in your area - they often have referral networks of tax professionals they work with regularly on these types of situations. The National Academy of Elder Law Attorneys (NAELA) has a directory that might help you find local resources. One more tip - make sure whoever you choose understands that you'll need them to communicate with you as the POA holder rather than directly with your grandmother, and that they're comfortable working with the documentation requirements that come with acting under a POA.
I went through this exact situation with my father's house last year and learned a few hard lessons that might help you. One thing that caught me off guard was the timing of when you need to establish the cost basis - make sure you're collecting all improvement receipts NOW, not after the sale closes. Also, regarding transferring money to your personal account - I'd strongly recommend against doing this directly. Instead, keep the proceeds in an account that's still in your mom's name but that you manage with the POA. This creates a much cleaner paper trail and avoids any potential gift tax complications. If you do need to access the money for her care expenses, transfer smaller amounts as needed with clear documentation of what each transfer is for (medical bills, care facility payments, etc.). This approach protects both of you and makes it much easier if you ever need to account for how the money was used. The tax reporting is also more straightforward when the money stays in her name - you'll just report the sale on her return without having to worry about gift tax implications on your end.
This is really helpful advice, especially about keeping the proceeds in her name rather than transferring directly to my account. I hadn't considered how much cleaner that would make the paper trail. Quick question about collecting improvement receipts - my mom has lived in the house for 15 years and I'm not sure she kept receipts for all the work that was done, especially from the early years. Are there other ways to document improvements if you don't have the original receipts? I know we did a major kitchen renovation and some landscaping work, but finding those old records might be challenging. Also, when you say "smaller amounts as needed" for care expenses, do you have a rough guideline for what might raise red flags? I want to make sure I'm being appropriately conservative in how I handle this.
Zoe Stavros
Has anyone else noticed that sometimes the total interest reported on the 1098s doesn't match what you actually paid according to your payment history? My mortgage was sold in August and the sum of both 1098s was about $340 less than what my payment records show for interest.
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Jamal Harris
β’This happened to me too! I think it has to do with the timing of when payments are applied. Check your December payment - if you paid it late in the month, the new lender might not have counted it until January of the next year.
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Felix Grigori
Great question! I dealt with this exact situation last year when my mortgage was sold in July. You definitely need to add both 1098 forms together - each lender reports the interest they collected during their respective periods of servicing your loan. One thing to watch out for: make sure there's no overlap in the dates. Sometimes there can be a few days where both lenders might report interest, especially around the transfer date. If the numbers seem unusually high when added together, double-check your monthly statements to verify the totals. Also, keep both 1098 forms with your tax records. The IRS receives copies of both forms, so they'll expect to see the combined total reflected in your return. TurboTax should handle this smoothly when you enter both forms separately - it will automatically combine the mortgage interest amounts for your Schedule A.
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Miguel Herrera
β’This is really helpful advice about checking for overlap! I'm curious - if there is an overlap in dates between the two lenders, how would you handle that? Do you subtract the overlapping amount from one of the 1098s, or is there a different way to report it to avoid double-counting the interest?
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