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Don't forget about quarterly estimated taxes for next year! That was my biggest shock when I started freelancing. Since there's no employer withholding taxes from your 1099 income, you're expected to pay those taxes quarterly yourself if you expect to owe more than $1000 at tax time. Use Form 1040-ES for this. The due dates are April 15, June 15, September 15, and January 15 (for the 2025 tax year). Missing these can result in penalties even if you pay the full amount by the April filing deadline.
Oh crap, I didn't even think about that. So basically I need to estimate what I'll owe and make payments throughout the year? How do you figure out how much to pay each quarter?
Exactly - you need to estimate your annual tax liability and make quarterly payments. For most people, if you pay 100% of last year's tax liability (or 110% if your income is over $150,000), you'll be safe from penalties even if you end up owing more. You can calculate it more precisely using the worksheet in Form 1040-ES. Basically, estimate your annual income, calculate the tax on it, subtract any withholding from your W-2 job, and divide by 4. Your tax software should help with this too. Just remember that you need to include both income tax and self-employment tax (the 15.3% that covers Social Security and Medicare).
A tip about equipment purchases - if you bought any computer equipment, software, or other tools specifically for your copywriting business, look into Section 179 deduction. It lets you deduct the full cost in the year you bought it (up to $1,080,000 for 2025) instead of depreciating it over several years.
I'm a tax preparer and see this situation often with medical contractors. Here's what you need to know: Since you're being paid directly (not as an employee with a W-2), you're considered self-employed and report on Schedule C. This means you CAN deduct vehicle expenses, but with important caveats. For a new 4x4, you have a few options: 1) Standard mileage rate (easiest but may not be best for expensive vehicle) 2) Actual expenses method (tracks all costs and applies business-use percentage) 3) Section 179 deduction (potential large first-year deduction if vehicle >6000 lbs) The key is documenting business purpose and keeping meticulous records. Start a mileage log immediately (there are good apps for this). Document the medical necessity of the 4x4 capability in writing. One thing nobody's mentioned - check if your insurance reimbursement includes any travel/transportation component. If they're already paying you for travel, it affects what you can deduct.
Thank you for this detailed breakdown! I wasn't aware of the Section 179 option at all. The insurance payment is a flat rate per visit with no specific travel component mentioned in the contract. Just to clarify - with the actual expenses method, can I deduct the percentage of the purchase price over time as depreciation? And do you recommend any specific apps for tracking mileage?
Yes, with the actual expenses method, you can deduct the business-use percentage of your purchase price through depreciation (typically over 5 years for passenger vehicles). There are annual limits on depreciation deductions for passenger vehicles, but vehicles over 6,000 lbs have more favorable treatment. For mileage tracking, my clients have good experiences with MileIQ, Everlance, and TripLog. Most have free versions to start with. The key features you want are automatic trip detection, easy business/personal categorization, and good reporting. Whatever app you choose, make sure you also document the purpose of business trips and keep supporting records of your appointments or on-call schedule to substantiate the business necessity.
A little late to this convo but I'm in a similar situation as a traveling speech therapist. My accountant told me that you definitely CANNOT write off the full purchase price in one year unless the vehicle is over 6000 lbs AND used 100% for business which almost never happens for individuals. He had me do actual expenses since my vehicle was expensive, and I'm deducting about 75% of all costs (my business usage). For the purchase price, I'm taking depreciation deductions over several years based on that 75% business use. One thing to consider - if you take the standard mileage rate instead (which is easier), you CANNOT later switch to actual expenses. But you CAN go from actual expenses to standard mileage in later years. My accountant recommended actual expenses for the first couple years when depreciation is highest, then potentially switching.
I'm confused about the 6000 lbs rule - does that mean if I buy a big SUV or truck I get better tax treatment than a smaller 4x4?
Exactly! Vehicles over 6,000 lbs gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) are classified differently by the IRS and aren't subject to the same depreciation limits as "passenger automobiles." This is sometimes called the "SUV tax loophole" and it can provide significant tax advantages. For example, in recent tax years, a vehicle over 6,000 lbs used primarily for business could qualify for much higher first-year depreciation than lighter vehicles. This is why you'll sometimes see tax advisors suggesting heavier vehicles to business owners. You can find the GVWR on the sticker inside the driver's door of most vehicles. Just remember, you still need to document the business use percentage accurately regardless of vehicle weight.
One tip I haven't seen mentioned: get a credit card that categorizes expenses for you and provides year-end summaries. I use the American Express Business Gold card for my S Corp, and their reporting makes tax time much easier. Their year-end summary breaks everything down by category, which my accountant loves.
Do you know if Chase business cards offer something similar? I already have a Chase personal card and was thinking of sticking with them for my S Corp.
Chase does offer categorization and reporting for their business cards, though in my experience it's not quite as detailed as Amex. Chase's Ink cards give you quarterly reports and a year-end summary that breaks down expenses by category. The Chase mobile app also lets you tag transactions and add notes, which is helpful for remembering the business purpose. If you already have a relationship with Chase, it's definitely convenient to stick with them - just make sure you're supplementing their reports with your own record-keeping system.
Don't overthink this! I've had an S Corp for 3 years and here's what I do: business credit card for all business expenses, personal card for all personal stuff. I pay the business card from my business checking account. I use Wave (free) to track everything and my accountant handles the rest at tax time. Keep it simple!
Just want to add that you should consider using USPS certified mail with return receipt when sending any paper forms to the IRS, especially amendments. I learned this the hard way when my 1040X supposedly got lost in the mail and I had zero proof I sent it. Had to resend everything and wait all over again. The receipt gives you proof of exactly when they received it, which can be important if there are any deadline issues.
That's really good advice - I wish I had done that! Do you think it's too late to try to get confirmation? I just sent it regular first class mail and have no proof of when I mailed it.
Unfortunately, without certified mail or some other tracking, it's difficult to prove when you sent it after the fact. For your current amendment, your best options now are checking the "Where's My Amended Return" tool periodically or contacting the IRS directly to confirm receipt. For future reference, always use certified mail with return receipt for any tax documents. The small cost (usually around $5-7) is absolutely worth the peace of mind. Keep the receipt permanently with your tax records. If the IRS ever questions when you submitted something, that green card receipt is golden proof that they can't dispute.
Quick tip: I'm a tax preparer and tell my clients with amended returns to also request a "Tax Account Transcript" after about 8-10 weeks. It sometimes shows the amendment being processed before the "Where's My Amended Return" tool updates. You can request it for free online through your IRS account or using Form 4506-T.
Ethan Moore
Don't overthink the 1095-C too much. It's mostly just documentation. Box 15 shows what you would've paid for the cheapest plan they offered, not what you actually paid. As long as you had health insurance from somewhere else (like spouse's plan, parents' plan if you're under 26, or marketplace), you're fine. You don't even attach this form to your tax return - just keep it for your records.
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Yuki Kobayashi
ā¢What happens if you didn't have any health insurance for part of the year? My 1095-C shows I was offered insurance but I declined it and had a gap of a few months before getting coverage at my new job.
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Ethan Moore
ā¢The federal individual mandate penalty was effectively eliminated starting in 2019, so there's no federal penalty for having gaps in coverage. However, some states like California, Massachusetts, New Jersey, Rhode Island, and DC have their own individual mandates with potential penalties. If you live in one of those states, you might face a state tax penalty for the months you were uninsured. The 1095-C would help show that you were offered coverage but declined it, which might be relevant depending on your state's specific rules. I'd recommend checking your state's tax department website or consulting with a tax professional familiar with your state's requirements.
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Carmen Vega
I work in benefits administration and deal with these forms all the time. Your employer is just following reporting requirements. The 1095-C requires them to report what they OFFERED, not what you enrolled in. They have to show the lowest cost option available to you.
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Anastasia Kozlov
ā¢That actually makes sense now. Thanks for explaining this! Does my employer need to correct anything on the form, or is it actually filled out correctly showing what was offered rather than what I elected?
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