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Bit of a different perspective - I'm an accountant who works with a lot of gig workers. For just $400, honestly, you're going to pay more for tax software or professional help than you might owe in taxes. Keep good records, track income and expenses, but don't stress too much until you're making more substantial money.
I've been wondering about this too. What level of income would you say justifies paying for professional tax help vs doing it myself for freelance teaching?
Make sure you check if you qualify for First Time Abatement for the penalties! Even though you made a mistake with reporting your COVID withdrawal, if you have a clean compliance history for the past 3 years, the IRS might remove the failure-to-pay penalties. You have to specifically request this though - they won't just offer it.
How do I request the First Time Abatement? Do I need to file a specific form with my amended return or call them directly?
You can request First Time Abatement in your letter that accompanies your amended return. Specifically state that you're requesting "penalty abatement under the First Time Abatement policy" and mention that you have a history of filing and paying on time before this incident. If you've already filed your amendment without requesting it, you can also call the IRS directly or submit Form 843 (Claim for Refund and Request for Abatement). The most important thing is to use those specific words - "First Time Abatement" - as it's a formal program the IRS offers but doesn't heavily advertise.
I know everyone's focusing on the 401k withdrawal, but don't forget about that HSA issue! If those were qualified medical expenses for childbirth, you should NOT be taxed on that distribution. Make sure you have documentation for all those medical expenses and include that with your amended return too.
This! My wife and I had a baby in 2020 too and used our HSA. Make sure you have all the EOBs (explanations of benefits) from your insurance company and any receipts. The IRS is pretty strict about HSA documentation.
One thing nobody has mentioned yet - have you considered just keeping the money in the Roth IRA and paying the excise tax? If your investments have grown significantly (especially during the 2020-2023 bull market), it might be worth just paying the 6% penalty. The reason is that Roth IRA growth is tax-free forever if you wait until retirement age. So if you're young and the account has decades to grow, you might actually come out ahead mathematically by paying the penalty and keeping the tax-free growth vehicle. You'd still need to file Form 5329 for each year and pay the penalties, but you wouldn't withdraw the funds. Just something to consider alongside the other options.
That's an interesting perspective I hadn't considered. My investments have actually done pretty well - they're up about 40% since I made the contributions. But wouldn't I continue accruing the 6% penalty EVERY year going forward as long as the excess contributions remain in the account? That seems like it would eat away all the gains eventually.
You're absolutely right about the continuing 6% penalty - I should have been clearer. The 6% excise tax continues each year until you either withdraw the excess contribution or until you have sufficient earned income in a future year to "absorb" the previous excess contribution. So if you plan to stay in the US after graduation and will have earned income later, you could potentially "absorb" these past contributions against future years' contribution limits. But if you don't expect to have US earned income, then yes, the penalty would continue indefinitely and probably isn't worth it.
Have you considered speaking to your brokerage firm? I had a similar issue with excess contributions and my brokerage (Fidelity) had a specific department that handled excess contribution removals. They calculated the attributable earnings for me and could process the removal in a way that was properly coded for the IRS. Also, don't forget that if you're using the money for qualified education expenses as you mentioned, you might qualify for an exception to the 10% early withdrawal penalty on any earnings (though you'd still owe income tax on those earnings). This is separate from the 6% excise tax issue, but could help reduce the overall financial impact.
This is good advice. I work at a brokerage (not naming which one) and we help with this all the time. The key is asking specifically for the "excess contribution removal department" or sometimes called "retirement tax services." Regular customer service reps might not know the proper procedure.
To answer your specific question: Technically yes, you CAN file before receiving your 1099 from Robinhood IF you have perfect records of all your transactions (dates, prices, fees, etc). But should you? Probably not. Here's why - if the 1099 numbers end up different from what you reported (which happens often with crypto because of wash sales or other factors), you'll need to file an amended return which is a huge pain. Just wanted to give a direct answer since others covered the details already.
Thank you so much for the straight answer! Just to make sure I understand completely - if I file without the 1099 and I'm off by like $100 on my calculated gains, will I definitely get flagged for an audit? Or is there some margin of error the IRS is ok with?
The IRS doesn't have a specific "margin of error" they officially accept. Any discrepancy between what's reported on the 1099 forms and what you report on your return could potentially trigger an automated notice. It doesn't necessarily mean a full audit, but you would receive a letter asking for clarification or additional tax payment. Even small differences can cause issues because the IRS's automated matching system flags returns where the numbers don't match the forms they've received from financial institutions. This is especially true with crypto transactions where the IRS has been increasing scrutiny in recent years.
Has anyone experienced Robinhood being late with their 1099s? Last year they said mid-February but I didn't get mine until almost March 1st!
Yep, happened to me too. They claimed "mid-February" but it was February 27th when I finally got mine. I ended up filing in early March and still got my refund in reasonable time. Better to file correctly than deal with amendments.
Mateo Hernandez
Have you checked your tax transcript online instead of just the Where's My Refund tool? The transcript often shows more detailed information about what's happening with your return. You can access it through the IRS website with an ID.me account. Look for codes like 570 (indicates a hold on your account) or 971 (notice issued). If you see code 846 with a date, that's your refund date!
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Chloe Anderson
ā¢I didn't know about checking the transcript! Just created an account and looked it up. There's a code 570 from March 11 and a code 971 from March 18. What does that mean exactly? Should I be worried?
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Mateo Hernandez
ā¢The 570 code means there's temporarily a hold on your refund while they review something. The 971 code means they're sending you a notice in the mail explaining what they need or what the issue is. Don't panic! This is actually good news because it means there's specific action happening on your return rather than it just sitting in a queue. Watch your mail for the notice over the next week or so. Often it's something simple like verifying your identity or confirming information. Once you respond to whatever they're asking, things usually move pretty quickly.
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Aisha Khan
Has anyone noticed that refunds seem extra slow this year compared to previous years? I filed mid-January and still waiting while in past years I'd have my money by Valentine's Day. Is the IRS extra backed up or something?
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Ethan Taylor
ā¢I've filed almost the same return for the last 3 years (same job, same deductions) and this year is definitely taking longer. My tax preparer said they're seeing delays across the board, especially for anyone claiming credits or deductions.
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