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Another approach is to use the Multiple Jobs Worksheet on the W4 if both you and your wife work. When I was getting big refunds, it turned out I needed to check the box in Step 2(c) since my wife and I both have similar incomes. Made a huge difference in our withholding.
The problem with checking that box is it often withholds too much if your incomes aren't exactly equal. I found it better to use the irs withholding calculator online and follow its recommendations instead of the worksheet.
That's a fair point. The checkbox method is definitely a rough estimate. The calculator is more precise, especially if one spouse makes significantly more than the other. I've found the worksheet reasonable when our incomes are within about 20% of each other, but anything beyond that and the calculator is definitely the way to go.
Be careful about cutting it too close to $0. I tried that last year and ended up owing $800 plus a small penalty because I didn't have enough withheld. Maybe aim for a small refund of $500-1000 just to be safe?
This is good advice. I target about $500 refund as a buffer. Also remember that if you owe more than $1000 at tax time AND didn't have at least 90% of your tax liability withheld throughout the year (or 100% of last year's tax), you could face underpayment penalties.
For what it's worth, you can find your tax liability on your Form 1040 from last year. It's on Line 24 that says "Total Tax" - that's your official tax liability for the year. Just pull out last year's return and look for that line.
Is the "Total Tax" on Line 24 the same as the "Total Payments" on Line 33? I always get confused about which number TurboTax wants when it asks these questions.
No, they're definitely different numbers. The "Total Tax" on Line 24 is your actual tax liability - the amount you owed based on your income, deductions, and credits. This is what TurboTax is asking for when it requests your tax liability. The "Total Payments" on Line 33 is the sum of all the payments you made toward that tax liability through withholding, estimated payments, and other credits. If your payments exceeded your liability, you got a refund. If your liability exceeded your payments, you owed additional tax when you filed.
Don't feel bad about being confused! Tax language is deliberately confusing imo. I remember the first time I filed using TaxAct and it asked for my "prior year AGI" and I had no clue what that meant.
One additional tip about AMT credits - if you're selling those underwater shares, consider selling them gradually over multiple tax years instead of all at once. Since you can only use capital losses to offset $3,000 of ordinary income per year (beyond your capital gains), spreading out the sales might help you utilize more of your AMT credit. I learned this the hard way by dumping all my underwater options in one year and couldn't utilize nearly as much of my AMT credit as I could have if I'd been more strategic.
But wouldn't it be better to just sell everything now if you think the stock will keep dropping? I'm in a similar situation and worried about losing even more money while trying to optimize for taxes.
You're absolutely right that investment considerations should come before tax planning. If you believe the stock will continue dropping, then selling everything immediately makes sense regardless of the tax implications. My advice is more applicable if you're on the fence about the stock's future or if you believe it's already bottomed out. In that scenario, tax planning can become a more significant factor in your decision-making process. Everyone's investment outlook is different, so you need to weigh both the market risk and tax efficiency together.
Does anyone know if AMT credits expire? I've been carrying mine forward for 3 years now and I'm worried I might lose them if I don't use them soon.
AMT credits don't expire! That's one of the few good things about this whole mess. You can carry them forward indefinitely until you use them up completely. I've been carrying mine for almost 7 years now.
Here's another angle - check if the 1099-NEC might actually be reporting royalty payments or some kind of intellectual property compensation related to her union work from years ago. Some union contracts include residual payments for work products that continue to generate value. If that's the case, it would be reported on Schedule E, not Schedule C, and wouldn't qualify as earned income for EITC but also wouldn't be subject to self-employment tax. The chain preparer was definitely doing something questionable by having her pay SE tax if she wasn't actually self-employed during the tax year.
How would you determine if it's royalty income vs. other types of payments? The 1099-NEC doesn't really specify the nature of the payment, just the amount.
You'd need to look at supporting documentation from the union explaining the nature of the payments. Ask your client for any letters, statements, or the original agreement with the union that established these payments. The description might use terms like "residuals," "royalties," or "use of intellectual property." Also check Box 1 of the 1099-NEC to see if there's any description near the amount. Some payers will include a brief memo there. If there's nothing there, your client should contact the union's benefits office directly and ask for a written explanation of what these payments represent.
This might be an ongoing benefits payment from the union. My brother gets something similar - it's part of his pension arrangement but gets reported on 1099-NEC for some reason. It's definitely not earned income and shouldn't be subject to SE tax. The tax chain was 100% taking advantage of your client. They were artificially boosting the refund with improper EITC to make their fee seem worth it. That's really predatory especially for someone on limited income.
Liam O'Sullivan
Going back to the original question - a key thing to understand is that the 1099-R reports distributions in the year they're actually distributed, not necessarily when you requested them. If your 1099-R is dated 2024, that means the financial institution is reporting to the IRS that they distributed the money to you in 2024, so you definitely need to report it on your 2024 tax return (which you'll file in 2025). If TurboTax is suggesting otherwise, it might be confusing a rollover situation with a taxable distribution. Did you roll this money into another retirement account within 60 days, or did you keep the money?
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Ethan Brown
ā¢Thanks for this explanation! I didn't roll it over, I cashed it out completely (I know, probably not the smartest financial move, but I needed the money for some home repairs). So it sounds like I should definitely be reporting this on my 2024 taxes regardless of what TurboTax is saying? I'm wondering if I somehow answered one of their questions wrong during the interview process.
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Liam O'Sullivan
ā¢Yes, you absolutely need to report it on your 2024 taxes (filed in 2025). Since you cashed it out completely and didn't roll it over, it's a taxable distribution in the year it was distributed. I suspect you might have accidentally indicated it was a rollover when answering TurboTax's questions, or there might be some other confusion in how you're navigating the software. I'd recommend starting over with entering that 1099-R and carefully reading each question. If TurboTax still gives you the same guidance, you should contact their support because that would definitely be incorrect advice for your situation.
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Amara Chukwu
Also make sure you're using the correct year's TurboTax software! If you accidentally started your return in last year's version (2023), it might be telling you to wait until "next year" (meaning 2024) because the withdrawal date you entered is in 2024. The version of TurboTax you should be using right now for a 2024 1099-R is the 2024 version (which would typically be labeled as TurboTax 2024, for filing in 2025).
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Giovanni Conti
ā¢This is a really good point! I've made this exact mistake before. The tax software naming conventions can be super confusing because they're labeled with the tax year, not the year you're using them in.
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