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If you're seeing a 570 code, check if you also have a 971 followed by a 290 code on a later date. In my experience, this sequence often means they're making an adjustment (could be up or down). The key is looking at whether there's a minus or plus sign next to any amount listed on the same line as these codes. Also, the cycle date on your transcript is important - it tells you when your account updates. If your cycle code ends in 05, your account updates on Thursdays/Fridays.
Thank you so much for this info! I do see a 290 code dated one week after the 570/971 codes. There's a small amount next to it (about $120 less than my expected refund). I'm guessing that means they're reducing it by that amount? My cycle code does end in 05 so I'll check again tomorrow to see if there are any updates.
Yes, that's exactly what it means. The $120 reduction is likely a correction they made to your return. This is actually good news because it means they've completed their review and are moving forward with processing your refund with just that small adjustment. Since your cycle code ends in 05, definitely check your transcript again tomorrow. You'll likely see a TC 846 code with your refund amount and direct deposit date. Most people see their money hit their account within 5-7 days after the TC 846 appears.
Has anyone used the "Where's My Refund" tool compared to checking transcripts? Mine has been saying "still processing" for weeks but my transcript shows all these codes. I'm confused which one is more accurate.
Transcripts are ALWAYS more accurate and detailed than the "Where's My Refund" tool. WMR only shows three basic statuses (received, approved, sent), while transcripts show you exactly what's happening behind the scenes. Many times my WMR would show "still processing" while my transcript showed they were already preparing to issue a refund.
Just a quick tip - whenever you mail tax payments to ANY tax agency, always get a tracking number from USPS, FedEx or UPS. It costs a few bucks but gives you proof of when you sent it and when they received it. Has saved me from late payment penalties more than once when the tax office claimed they "never received" my payment. That tracking number receipt is gold when disputing penalties!
That's great advice, wish I'd thought of that earlier! Do you also recommend sending a check instead of a money order for tax payments? I've been using money orders but wondering if checks are better for tracking purposes.
I always use checks instead of money orders for tax payments because they give you an extra layer of proof. When your check clears, you have both the tracking delivery confirmation AND your bank statement showing they cashed it. With money orders, you have to go through more steps to prove it was cashed. Also, if there's ever a dispute about WHEN you paid, the date the check was cashed is clear evidence. Just make sure to write your tax ID number and the tax form number in the memo line of the check to help them process it correctly.
Has anyone had luck with paying Arizona taxes online instead of mailing payments? Their website looks confusing and I'm not sure if I need to register for something special first. Might be easier than dealing with addresses and mail.
Yes! I switched to paying online last year and it's WAY easier. Go to AZTaxes.gov and create an account. You'll need your SSN, last year's tax info, and a bank account for direct debit. Once registered, you can make payments for Form 140, estimated taxes, and even set up payment plans. They send confirmation emails for everything so you have proof of payment too.
One thing nobody's mentioned yet - this bonus delay might actually benefit you tax-wise depending on your income situation. If you were in a higher tax bracket in 2022 than you expect to be in 2023, you might actually pay LESS tax on that bonus now that it's pushed to 2023. My company did something similar (but deliberately) a few years back, and several of us actually came out ahead because of lower tax brackets the following year. Might be worth running the numbers both ways to see if you actually benefit from this mistake!
I hadn't even thought of that angle! I was so focused on the mistake that I didn't consider it might actually work in my favor. My income will probably be a bit lower in 2023 since I'm planning to take some unpaid leave, so this might actually push me into a lower bracket. Do you know if this affects other income-based things like student loan payments or healthcare subsidies? I'm worried it might have ripple effects beyond just my tax return.
Great question about the ripple effects. Yes, this can absolutely impact income-based programs. If you're on an income-based repayment plan for student loans, your payments are typically calculated based on your prior year's AGI (Adjusted Gross Income), so this could potentially lower your 2022 AGI and reduce your payments for 2023. For healthcare subsidies through the Marketplace, those are based on your estimated current year income. So if you're receiving subsidies, you might need to update your projected 2023 income to include this bonus, which could reduce your subsidy amount. It's always better to report changes proactively than to have to pay back subsidies at tax time.
Has anyone dealt with the opposite problem? My company paid my 2024 bonus in late December 2023 (like Dec 28th) and I'm worried I'll end up paying higher taxes because it pushed me into the next bracket for 2023...
That's actually a common misunderstanding about tax brackets. Moving into a higher bracket only affects the portion of income above that threshold, not all your income. So only the amount that pushed you over would be taxed at the higher rate, not your entire yearly income.
Has anyone tried Credit Karma Tax? I heard they rebranded to Cash App Taxes but are still free for federal and state filing. I used them last year and they handled my W-2, 1099, and student loan interest with no fees. Just wondering if they're still completely free this year before I start my taxes.
I used Cash App Taxes (formerly Credit Karma) last year and it was completely free, but they don't support every tax situation. If you have multiple state returns, rental income, or foreign income, they can't handle it. Do you know if they support cryptocurrency transactions? I did some small trades this year.
Cash App Taxes is still completely free for both federal and state returns as of 2025. I just checked their site yesterday to confirm. They do support basic cryptocurrency reporting, but it's somewhat limited. If you made just a few trades, it should work fine. But if you have extensive crypto activity, you might need a different service. For multiple state returns, you're right - they don't support that at all. You need to have income from just one state for it to work properly.
Instead of paying filing fees, I've been using the fillable PDFs directly from the IRS website for years. Yes, it takes a bit more effort to understand the forms, but once you've done it once or twice, it's actually pretty straightforward. You get to file completely FREE, and you learn a ton about taxes in the process.
Abigail Patel
The way I've always understood tax brackets (and how I built my spreadsheet) is using the "taxable income" concept: If your taxable income is LESS THAN OR EQUAL TO the upper limit of a bracket, then that's your bracket. So $50,175 is in the 12% bracket, while $50,176 is in the 22% bracket. For calculation purposes, I use this formula: - 10% of the first $12,350 - 12% of the amount over $12,350 up to $50,175 - 22% of the amount over $50,175 up to $107,050 And so on... This way there's no confusion about missing dollars. The key is to calculate the tax on the amount WITHIN each bracket, not the bracket boundaries themselves.
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Daniel White
ā¢This is how I do it too, but I still run into small discrepancies when I check my work against online calculators. Is there a specific formula you use in Excel/Google Sheets? I feel like I'm still missing something.
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Abigail Patel
ā¢I use nested IF statements in Excel to determine which portion of income falls into each bracket. For example: For the 12% bracket: =IF(Income>12350,IF(Income>=50175,50175-12350,Income-12350),0)*0.12 This says "if income is greater than $12,350, then either take the full bracket amount ($50,175-$12,350) if income exceeds the top of this bracket, or just take (Income-$12,350) if income falls within this bracket. Multiply the result by 12%." Do this for each bracket, then sum them all up. The key insight is treating the upper boundary as inclusive (using >= for comparing to the upper limit), so $50,175 gets taxed at 12%, not 22%. This matches official IRS calculations exactly.
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Nolan Carter
I think we're all overthinking this lol. The tax calculation difference you're seeing is probably just a rounding error in your spreadsheet. The IRS actually rounds to the nearest dollar anyway on the final tax owed, so being off by a few cents per bracket is meaningless in real life.
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Natalia Stone
ā¢Actually, precision matters here. While the final tax amount is rounded, the calculations themselves need to be exact. I learned this the hard way when my "close enough" spreadsheet ended up being off by $237 compared to my actual return because of accumulated small errors in multiple bracket calculations.
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