I think people are overcomplicating this. If you're keeping the digital media, there's no sale, so there's nothing to report on Form 4797. That form is specifically for sales, exchanges, and involuntary conversions. When I closed my business last year, my accountant told me that assets without significant value don't need to be reported if you're just keeping them. Only worry about Form 4797 for assets you're actually selling or for equipment you've been depreciating.

I just went through this exact scenario! The key thing is whether you deducted or depreciated the digital assets when you got them. If you expensed them (deducted the full cost when purchased), there's no need to report anything when closing your business. If you depreciated them as capital assets, then you need Form 4797. For my graphic design business, I had purchased some expensive font packages and stock photo collections. Since I had fully expensed them under Section 179 in the year I bought them, my tax preparer said I didn't need to report them at all when closing my business.

Could someone clarify if the verification method is tied to specific credits claimed? It's like the IRS is using different levels of security - online is like the standard door lock, phone is a deadbolt, and in-person is the bank vault. I'm wondering if claiming certain credits (like EITC or CTC) automatically triggers the higher security levels.

I did some digging into this because it seemed so random (and frustrating!). Turns out the IRS uses something called the Return Review Program (RRP) which has different risk scoring models. 😂 Your "verification path" is assigned based on your risk score and available verification channels in your area. Fun fact: they actually increased in-person verifications by 25% this tax season according to the National Taxpayer Advocate report. So if you got stuck with the in-person option, you're definitely not alone!

Don't overlook the fact that the CP3219A means the IRS has officially rejected the explanation you provided for the CP2000. The automatic generation theory might be true, but you need to treat this seriously. I recommend sending a formal protest letter along with your response. Include a timeline of all communications, copies of everything you've sent before, and specifically request abatement of any penalties since you responded timely to the CP2000. Also specify that you're contesting their determination on the basis that you properly reported your crypto transactions and actually incurred losses, not gains.

I dealt with this exact situation last year with my 2020 crypto taxes. The key thing to understand is that the IRS computer systems don't talk to each other very well. Your CP3219A was likely auto-generated before your amended return response was processed - this is incredibly common. Here's what worked for me: I immediately called the IRS using the number on the CP3219A notice and asked them to check if they had received my previous response to the CP2000. The agent confirmed they had it but it was sitting in a different department's queue. She was able to put a "hold" code on my account to stop any further automated notices while my case was being reviewed. The most important thing is NOT to ignore the CP3219A deadline. Even though you already responded once, treat this as a separate notice that requires a response within 90 days. Send copies of everything you sent before, but also include a cover letter that references both notice numbers and explains the timeline of your responses. One more tip - make sure you're sending your response to the correct address listed on the CP3219A notice, as it's often different from the CP2000 response address. Good luck!

Just curious - has anyone here used an installment sale for foreign property? The buyer of my land in Mexico wants to pay me over 3 years instead of all at once, and I'm not sure how to report this on US taxes.

This is a complex situation that definitely requires careful attention to US tax obligations. Since you're a US taxpayer, you'll need to report this foreign property sale regardless of where the proceeds are deposited - the location of the bank account doesn't change your tax liability. A few key points to consider beyond what others have mentioned: 1. **Timing of recognition**: The sale will be taxable in the year it closes, not necessarily when you receive all the money (unless you structure it as an installment sale). 2. **State tax implications**: Don't forget to check if your state has any additional reporting requirements for foreign asset sales. 3. **Record keeping**: Start gathering all documentation now - original purchase/inheritance records, any improvements made to the property, foreign taxes paid, and currency exchange rates on relevant dates. 4. **Professional help**: Given the complexity with inheritance basis, potential foreign tax credits, and various reporting forms (8938, FBAR, etc.), I'd strongly echo the advice to work with a tax professional experienced in international transactions. The cost of professional help is usually much less than the penalties for getting these filings wrong. The fact that payment is coming directly to your US account might actually simplify some aspects, but it doesn't reduce your reporting obligations. Make sure you have a clear paper trail of the entire transaction.

Has anyone looked into whether you can amend previous years' tax returns to file separately instead of jointly? My wife and I already filed our 2023 taxes jointly a few weeks ago, but now we're considering buying an EV and using our 2023 income to qualify.

This is a really smart strategy that more people should know about! I work as a tax preparer and I've helped several clients navigate this exact situation this year. One additional consideration I haven't seen mentioned: make sure you understand the "place of assembly" requirements for the EV credit. Not all electric vehicles qualify for the full $7,500 credit - some only qualify for $3,750 or nothing at all, depending on where the battery components and critical minerals are sourced from. The IRS has a searchable database of qualifying vehicles that gets updated regularly. Also, since you mentioned you're in Colorado, you might want to look into state-level EV incentives too. Colorado has its own EV tax credit of up to $5,000 that stacks on top of the federal credit. The income limits and requirements are different from the federal credit, so you could potentially get even more benefit. Your math looks solid overall - paying $3,800 more in taxes to get a $7,500 credit is definitely worth it. Just make sure to run the numbers one more time closer to your purchase date since tax laws can change, and double-check that your specific vehicle model qualifies for the full credit amount.