


Ask the community...
I was in almost exactly your situation last year! 29 years old, hadn't filed since 2018, and felt completely overwhelmed. Here's what I wish someone had told me: First, don't panic about the 2019 deadline - while you might not be able to claim a refund for 2019 anymore (3-year rule), you should still file it if you owed taxes to avoid penalties piling up. For documents, start simple: create an IRS online account at irs.gov and request your wage transcripts. This will show you all the W-2 income that was reported to the IRS for each year, even if you don't have the physical forms. You can also request transcripts of any 1098-T education forms. The stimulus payments are HUGE - don't miss out on this! I got back over $3,000 in missed stimulus money when I finally filed my 2020 and 2021 returns. You claim them as the "Recovery Rebate Credit" on those tax returns. Since you were likely a dependent during college years, double-check if your parents claimed you. If so, you might not have been required to file for years when you made under ~$12,400, BUT you should still file if any taxes were withheld from your paychecks - that's money you can get back. For software, I personally used TaxAct for prior year returns (way cheaper than TurboTax for multiple years) and it walked me through everything including the stimulus credits. The whole process took me a weekend once I had my documents. You've got this! The hardest part is just starting.
This is super helpful! I'm in a similar situation but I'm wondering - when you say "create an IRS online account" to get wage transcripts, is that pretty straightforward? I've heard mixed things about their identity verification process being really difficult online. Did you have any issues with that part? Also, when you mention TaxAct being cheaper for multiple years - do you remember roughly what it cost you total? I'm trying to budget for this whole process and figure out if it's worth going the DIY route vs hiring someone.
I completely understand the overwhelm you're feeling - I was in almost the exact same situation two years ago! Here's my advice as someone who successfully navigated this mess: **Start with the IRS online account first** - create one at irs.gov and request wage and income transcripts for each year. This will show you exactly what income was reported to the IRS, even if you've lost your W-2s. The identity verification can be tricky online, but it's worth trying first before mailing forms. **Don't stress about the filing order** - you can file your returns in any order. I actually started with 2021 first because I knew I'd get the biggest refund (stimulus money + withholdings), which gave me motivation to continue. **You're likely owed significant money** - between missed stimulus payments (potentially $3,200 total) and any tax withholdings from your part-time jobs, you could be looking at a substantial refund rather than owing money. **For the Pell Grants** - these are generally not taxable income as long as you used them for qualified education expenses (tuition, required books/supplies). Room and board portions would be taxable, but many students don't realize this distinction. **Consider your dependency status carefully** - if your parents claimed you as a dependent during those college years, it affects your filing requirements and eligibility for certain credits. The hardest part really is just getting started. Once you request those transcripts and see what income was actually reported, the path forward becomes much clearer!
This is really reassuring to hear from someone who went through the same thing! I'm definitely feeling less panicked now. Quick question about the dependency status - how do I figure out if my parents claimed me during those years? Is that something I can see in my IRS transcripts, or do I need to ask them directly? I'm pretty sure they did claim me through at least 2020 since I was still in school, but I want to make sure before I start filing. Also, when you say you started with 2021 first for the motivation boost - did that cause any issues with the IRS processing them out of order? I like the idea of tackling the year that'll give me the biggest refund first!
Has anyone tried working with a tax attorney instead of dealing with the IRS directly? I'm in a similar situation owing about $45k and wondering if it's worth the expense.
I'm going through something similar right now - owe about $58k and was terrified they'd force me to liquidate everything. After working with the IRS directly, I can confirm what others have said about them being more reasonable than expected. They absolutely do NOT require you to drain your entire savings or sell essential assets like your car. The key is being completely honest about your financial situation. When I filled out Form 433-F, I documented every expense including my modest emergency fund (about 3 months of expenses) and they accepted it as reasonable. They even acknowledged that having some emergency savings actually makes you more likely to stick to the payment plan. My advice: don't panic and start liquidating assets before talking to them. With your $60k income, you'll likely qualify for a payment plan around $800-1000/month depending on your other expenses. The IRS wants to get paid, not destroy your ability to earn income or maintain basic living standards. Take a deep breath - this is manageable even though it feels overwhelming right now.
This is really reassuring to hear from someone going through the exact same situation. I've been losing sleep over this $65k bill thinking I'd have to give up everything I've worked so hard to save. Your point about the emergency fund actually making you more likely to stick to the payment plan makes total sense - if something unexpected happens and you have no cushion, you'd probably default on the IRS payments too. Did you end up doing the Form 433-F yourself or did you get help with it? I'm worried about making mistakes on the paperwork that could hurt my case.
I filled out Form 433-F myself, but I was extremely thorough and double-checked everything multiple times. The form itself isn't too complicated - it's basically a detailed budget worksheet - but accuracy is crucial since they'll verify the information you provide. My recommendation would be to gather all your financial documents first (bank statements, pay stubs, bills, etc.) and then take your time filling it out. The IRS provides instructions for each section, and there are examples online of what constitutes "reasonable" expenses in different categories. If you're really unsure about something major, a quick consultation with a tax professional might be worth it just for the peace of mind, but you can definitely handle the form yourself if you're detail-oriented. The most important thing is being honest and thorough. Don't try to hide assets or inflate expenses - they will verify everything. But also don't shortchange yourself on legitimate necessary expenses. Things like your emergency fund, reasonable housing costs, transportation, food, utilities, and healthcare are all acceptable. You've got this!
One strategy that worked for me in a similar situation was filing Form 8857 (Request for Innocent Spouse Relief) again, but with significantly more documentation. I was denied the first time like your friend, but on my second attempt I included much more detailed evidence of my ex's financial concealment and control. The key was getting very specific about which tax items on the return were attributable solely to my ex-spouse. I went line by line through our joint returns and documented with bank statements, emails, and other records showing which income items were completely unknown to me and which deductions were fraudulent. Has your friend considered this route? The appeal being exhausted doesn't necessarily mean she can't file again with new, more compelling evidence.
Your friend's situation is unfortunately very common, and I've seen several people in similar circumstances successfully resolve their tax debt despite having a non-cooperative ex-spouse. The key is understanding that the IRS treats joint filers as "jointly and severally liable" - meaning they can collect from either spouse regardless of who actually earned the income. For the OIC process, your friend can absolutely proceed without her ex's participation. The IRS will evaluate her current financial situation independently. Given her $110K income, she'll need to demonstrate that paying the full amount would create genuine economic hardship, especially considering her ongoing expenses for her college-age children. One important point about potential civil recovery: if her OIC is accepted and she pays a reduced amount, she could potentially sue her ex for his proportional share of what she paid (not the original debt). This would be handled in state court as a contribution claim, but she'd need to prove his share of the original tax liability. I'd strongly recommend she work with a tax professional who specializes in OIC cases involving divorced couples. They can help structure the offer to highlight the hardship created by her ex's deliberate asset concealment and non-cooperation.
This is really helpful advice about the OIC process. I'm curious about the timeline aspect - how long does the OIC process typically take when there's a non-cooperative ex involved? My friend is getting stressed because the IRS keeps sending collection notices while she's trying to gather all the documentation. Should she request a collection hold while the OIC is being processed, or does submitting the offer automatically pause collections? Also, when you mention working with a tax professional who specializes in divorced couples, are there specific credentials or certifications she should look for? She's already been burned by one tax resolution company that took her money and did nothing.
11 Whatever you do, make sure to get the stock sale documented properly with a written agreement signed by all parties. I left an S corp a few years back without proper documentation and it was a nightmare when the IRS questioned the transaction later.
That's really helpful to know about the documentation requirements. When you say "business reasons for the below-market sale," what kind of rationale did the IRS find acceptable? I'm planning to sell at par value partly because I don't want to strain the company's cash flow, and partly because I've been well-compensated over the years and don't feel I need to extract my full equity. Would those reasons hold up under IRS scrutiny?
Those reasons could work, but you'll want to document them carefully. The IRS generally accepts below-market sales when there are legitimate business purposes beyond just being "nice" to the other shareholders. Your rationale about not wanting to strain cash flow is actually pretty solid from a business perspective - it shows you're considering the company's operational needs. I'd recommend having the company's accountant or attorney draft a formal agreement that spells out: (1) the sale price and how it was determined, (2) your business reasons for accepting less than fair market value, (3) acknowledgment from all parties that this is an arm's length transaction despite the relationship, and (4) maybe even get a simple valuation or at least document how you arrived at what fair market value would be. The key is showing this was a deliberate business decision rather than a gift in disguise. Your years of good compensation actually support your case - it shows the transaction isn't about additional compensation but about facilitating a clean exit.
One additional consideration that hasn't been mentioned yet - since you're an S corp shareholder exiting at a significant discount to fair market value, you should also think about the impact on any buy-sell agreements or operating agreements that might exist. Many S corps have provisions that could be triggered by share transfers, and selling at par value when the actual value is much higher might create complications with existing shareholders' rights or trigger valuation disputes later. Also, if your S corp has ever made Section 1202 qualified small business stock elections, there could be additional tax planning opportunities or pitfalls to consider with the timing and structure of your exit. The 5-year holding period and other QSBS requirements might affect whether a redemption vs. cross-purchase makes more sense from a long-term capital gains perspective. I'd definitely recommend running this by both a tax professional and the company's attorney before finalizing anything, especially given the complexity that can arise when there's a big gap between sale price and fair market value.
Ava Martinez
Quick question about Schedule C and business startup - do I have to wait until I make my first sale to start deducting expenses? I'm spending money now on equipment and supplies but won't have any income for probably 2-3 months.
0 coins
Miguel Castro
ā¢You can deduct startup expenses up to $5,000 in your first year of business, even before you make your first sale. Anything beyond that gets amortized over 15 years. The key is showing that you're actively trying to start a business and not just pursuing a hobby. Keep good records of everything!
0 coins
Jacob Lewis
Great question! I went through this exact same confusion when I started my consulting business. The key thing to understand is that Schedule C business deductions and your personal standard deduction are completely independent of each other. Think of it this way: Schedule C calculates your business profit (income minus expenses), and that NET profit then becomes part of your personal income on Form 1040. Then separately, you decide whether to take the standard deduction or itemize your PERSONAL deductions (like mortgage interest, charitable donations, etc.). For your photography equipment - absolutely deductible on Schedule C if it's used for business! The $1,200 camera, editing software, props, backdrops, lighting equipment, memory cards, etc. are all legitimate business expenses. You can either expense smaller items immediately or depreciate larger equipment over several years. One thing to watch out for: make sure you can demonstrate this is a business and not just a hobby. The IRS has a "hobby loss rule" that can disallow deductions if they think you're not trying to make a profit. Keep good records, have a business plan, and try to show profit in at least 3 of 5 years. Also consider setting up a separate business bank account and credit card from day one - it makes tracking expenses so much easier come tax time!
0 coins
Carmen Vega
ā¢This is such a helpful breakdown! I'm actually in a very similar situation - just starting a small service business while keeping my day job. The hobby loss rule you mentioned is something I hadn't considered before. What kind of business plan documentation would be sufficient to show the IRS you're serious about making a profit? Does it need to be formal or can it be something simple like projected income/expenses for the first year?
0 coins