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Has anyone actually tried calling the Taxpayer Advocate Service? I'm in a similar situation with denied business expenses from a side gig, and I keep hearing they're supposed to help but I can't get through to them either.
I used the Taxpayer Advocate Service last year for an audit issue. You need to fill out Form 911 (Request for Taxpayer Advocate Service Assistance) to get their help. In my experience, they're severely backlogged right now, so don't expect immediate help. They were most helpful after I'd already tried normal channels and documented those attempts. They won't take your case unless you can show you've tried to resolve it through normal IRS channels first and that you're facing significant hardship (financial difficulties, immediate threat of adverse action, etc.).
I went through something very similar last year with business equipment deductions that got denied. The key thing is making sure you've actually received that Notice of Deficiency before you can petition Tax Court - it sounds like you might still be in the appeals process rather than at the Tax Court stage. One thing that helped me was requesting a Collections Due Process (CDP) hearing when I got my collection notice. This gave me another bite at the apple to challenge the underlying tax liability, and importantly, if they deny your CDP hearing request, THAT decision can be appealed to Tax Court under a different process. Also, keep detailed records of every interaction you've had with the IRS - dates, times, who you spoke with, what was discussed. This documentation becomes crucial if you do end up in Tax Court or need to show the Taxpayer Advocate Service that you've exhausted normal channels. Don't give up - $6,700 is definitely worth fighting for, especially if you have legitimate documentation for those business expenses.
3 Does anyone know if donating stuff instead of money makes any difference tax-wise? I have a bunch of clothes and furniture I could donate to Goodwill instead of giving cash to charities.
8 Donating items instead of cash still counts as a charitable contribution, but there are some important differences: For non-cash donations, you generally deduct the fair market value of the items (what they would sell for in used condition, not what you paid for them new). For donations over $250, you'll need a receipt from the charity. For donations over $500, you'll need to fill out Form 8283, and for donations over $5,000, you typically need a qualified appraisal.
3 Thanks for the clear explanation! So I'd still face the same problem as with cash donations - I'd need to itemize to get any tax benefit. Guess I'll donate my stuff anyway since it helps the charity, but I won't count on any tax breaks.
One thing to consider is using a donor-advised fund (DAF) if you're planning to give regularly. You can contribute a larger lump sum to the DAF in a year when you itemize (like if you have higher medical expenses or other deductions), get the immediate tax deduction, then distribute the funds to your chosen charities over multiple years. For example, you could contribute $3,000-4,000 to a DAF in a year when itemizing makes sense, then recommend grants of $1,300 annually to your preferred charities. This gives you more control over the timing of your tax deduction while still supporting the causes you care about consistently. Many brokerage firms like Fidelity, Vanguard, and Schwab offer DAFs with low minimum contributions and fees. Just another strategy to consider as your giving grows over time!
That's a really smart approach I hadn't considered! The donor-advised fund strategy seems like it could work well with the bunching method others mentioned. So in years when I have higher medical expenses or other deductions that might push me closer to itemizing, I could front-load multiple years of charitable giving into the DAF and get the tax benefit, then distribute it out over time. Do you know what the typical minimum contribution is for these DAFs at the major brokerages? And are there any downsides or restrictions I should be aware of before going this route?
I'd recommend attaching Form 433-F (Collection Information Statement) along with your 9465 if you're requesting a payment plan for a larger amount or if you can't afford what would normally be the minimum payment. This form shows your income, expenses, assets, and debts. It's extra paperwork but it helps prove to the IRS what you can actually afford to pay each month and increases your chances of getting approved for lower monthly payments if you're truly in a financial hardship situation.
Is that required? I'm trying to do this quickly and don't want to fill out more forms than I need to.
Form 433-F isn't required for all installment agreements, but it's highly recommended if you owe more than $25,000 or if you can't afford the standard minimum payment amounts that the IRS typically expects. If you owe less and can propose a reasonable monthly payment that will clear your debt within 72 months, you can often get by with just the 9465. However, if your financial situation is tight and you need to propose a lower payment amount, the 433-F helps justify why you can't pay more. It's basically your financial proof that supports your payment proposal. Without it, the IRS might just reject a low payment proposal assuming you can afford more.
One thing I wish someone had told me when I filled out my Form 9465 is to double-check your Social Security Number and the tax year you're requesting the installment agreement for. I made a simple typo in my SSN and it delayed my application by weeks while they tried to match it to my account. Also, if you're married filing jointly, make sure you're clear about whether both spouses are requesting the installment agreement or just one of you. This was confusing for me since my spouse and I file jointly but only I was responsible for the additional tax owed. The IRS website has a payment estimator tool that can help you figure out what monthly payment amount to propose, but honestly the explanations here about the 72-month rule and adding buffer for interest are really helpful. Good luck with your application!
Thanks for mentioning the SSN double-check tip! I'm getting ready to fill out my own 9465 and hadn't even thought about that kind of simple mistake causing delays. Quick question - when you say "payment estimator tool" on the IRS website, is that something separate from the form itself? I've been looking around their site but it's pretty confusing to navigate.
moved 3 times in 2 years and the 8822 worked fine each time. just make sure u follow the instructions exactly or theyll reject it
I actually work for a tax prep company and can confirm Form 8822 is usually the fastest route. Pro tip: send it certified mail so you have proof of delivery. The IRS processes these in the order they receive them, so certified mail with tracking gives you peace of mind. Also make sure to include your SSN and sign it - those are the most common reasons for rejection that cause delays.
Ben Cooper
This is such a helpful thread! I'm in a similar situation - got my green card approved and will be entering the US in December 2024. Reading through all these responses, it's clear that the tax residency starts on the actual entry date with the green card, not during any previous visits. One question I haven't seen addressed - if I have investment income from my home country that's automatically reinvested (like dividends going back into mutual funds), do I need to report that for the period after I become a tax resident? Or only if I actually withdraw/receive the money? My investment account will continue generating returns even after I move to the US, but I won't be actively managing it or taking distributions. Also want to thank everyone who shared the resources about getting IRS help and FBAR requirements - definitely going to bookmark those for when I start preparing my first US tax return!
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Carmen Diaz
ā¢Welcome to the community! Yes, you'll need to report that investment income even if it's automatically reinvested. Once you become a US tax resident (on your green card entry date), the IRS requires you to report your worldwide income - and that includes dividends, capital gains, and other investment returns from your home country, regardless of whether you physically receive the money or it gets reinvested. The automatic reinvestment doesn't change the fact that you earned the income. You'll typically receive tax documents from your foreign investment company showing these transactions, and you'll need to convert the amounts to USD using the exchange rate from when the income was earned. This can get complex with foreign mutual funds since the US has special rules for "Passive Foreign Investment Companies" (PFICs) that can result in higher tax rates and additional reporting requirements. Definitely something to research or get professional help with for your first filing!
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Paolo Conti
As someone who just went through this process last year, I can confirm everything that's been said here is accurate! Your tax residency definitely starts on August 30, 2024 when you enter with your green card, not during your earlier tourist visit. One additional tip I wish someone had told me - keep detailed records of your entry and exit dates from the US, especially that August 30 date. The IRS may ask for proof of when your residency began, and having your passport stamps or I-94 records makes this much easier. Also, since you mentioned income from your home country between January-August 2024, make sure to keep all tax documents from your home country for that period. Even though you won't report that income on your US return, you might need those records to prove you properly paid taxes in your home country and to calculate any foreign tax credits for the post-August 30 period. The dual-status filing can be intimidating, but it's actually pretty straightforward once you understand the timeline. Just remember: non-resident rules for January 1 - August 29, resident rules for August 30 - December 31. Good luck with your move!
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