IRS

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If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

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Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
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  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

James Maki

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For property insurance payouts specifically, one solution is to keep track of ALL expenses related to the incident, not just direct replacement costs. Did you hire cleaners? Pay for storage while repairs were happening? Have to stay in a hotel? Buy meals out because you couldn't cook? All these can be considered part of your "loss" and offset any potential gain from the payout. My accountant helped me document everything when my basement flooded, and we ended up with no taxable amount even though the initial payout seemed higher than the obvious replacement costs.

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Connor Byrne

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I went through something very similar with a water damage claim last year. The key thing to understand is that the IRS looks at whether you had a "gain" - meaning did you receive more than what your property was worth to you (your "basis"). For most of your payout, you're probably fine since it's going toward actual repairs and replacements. The tricky part is that $7,000 where the insurance valued your old furniture higher than replacement cost. Here's what I learned: if your old couch cost you $800 twelve years ago and the insurance paid you $1,200 for it, but you can replace it with something equivalent for $400 today, you potentially have an $800 taxable gain ($1,200 payout minus $400 replacement cost). But if you can show the couch actually cost you $1,200 or more originally (accounting for inflation), then there's no gain. My advice: document EVERYTHING. Keep receipts for all repairs and replacements. If you end up spending that extra $7,000 on additional flood-related expenses (which often happens - there are always surprise costs), then you may not have any taxable gain at all. Also consider getting Form 1099-MISC from your insurance company showing exactly what they reported to the IRS, so you know what they're expecting to see on your return.

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This is really helpful, thanks! I'm actually dealing with a similar water damage situation right now. One question - when you mention getting Form 1099-MISC from the insurance company, do they automatically send this or do you have to request it? My payout was around $35K so I'm assuming they'll report it, but I haven't received any tax forms yet. Also, did you end up having to pay estimated taxes on the gain portion, or could you wait until filing your regular return?

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Ravi Sharma

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Last year I had the same issue but it sorted itself out by the 15th. Just gotta be patient unfortunately

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Freya Larsen

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patient?? its OUR money they sitting on šŸ’…

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Axel Far

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I'm in the same situation! Filed early and was expecting my Michigan refund today too. Really frustrating that they don't communicate these system issues better upfront. At least now I know it's not just me - thanks for posting about this! Guess we're all stuck waiting until after the 13th 😤

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How are state taxes calculated for part-year residents moving between states?

I'm really frustrated trying to figure out my state taxes this year. I moved from Washington to Oregon in June 2023 and my state tax calculations are way off from what I expected. I've got my federal return all squared away (federal AGI is $118,450), but the state returns are showing I owe about $1,400 more than I thought! Some background: My state-taxable AGI is around $115,780 after subtracting some exempt federal bond interest. My income in each state breaks down like this: Washington wages: $35,220 Washington interest: $285 Washington dividends: $45 Washington other income: $54,690 (from a 529 plan withdrawal that wasn't used for education) Total Washington source income is about $90,240 Pro-rated Washington standard deduction of $4,325 Washington taxable income of $85,915 TaxSlayer is showing my Washington tax liability as $3,240 after an exemption credit, but when I look at Washington's tax tables, an income of $85,915 should only result in tax of around $2,250! When I use Washington's tax bracket calculator myself, I get $2,245, which is about $995 less than what the software says. Only $310 was withheld from my Washington income. I also know I'll have to pay an additional $1,370 in Washington distribution taxes on my 529 withdrawal, which I had already factored into my estimates. For Oregon, my numbers are: Oregon wages: $41,760 Oregon interest: $223 Oregon dividends: $91 Oregon capital losses: $2,657 Oregon rental losses: $4,620 Oregon AGI: $34,797 TaxSlayer says I owe $1,760 on this, but my calculations using Oregon's tax brackets say I should only owe about $1,480. I had $1,620 withheld. Between both states, there's a difference of about $1,395 between what I calculated and what the software shows. Can anyone explain how part-year resident state taxes actually work? Are my capital/rental losses being disallowed somehow? I've been pulling my hair out all day trying to understand this!

I think another factor that might explain the discrepancy is the different ways states handle standard and itemized deductions for part-year residents. Many states prorate the standard deduction based on the portion of the year you were a resident. So if you lived in a state for 3 months, you might only get 3/12 of the standard deduction amount. For itemized deductions, some states require you to prorate all itemized deductions, while others allow you to claim the full amount of deductions for expenses like property taxes or mortgage interest on property located in that state, regardless of your residency period. Have you checked if your tax software is prorating your standard deduction correctly? That could account for some of the difference you're seeing.

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I ran into this exact issue when I moved from Colorado to Texas! The software correctly prorated my standard deduction in Colorado, but I didn't realize that was happening until I looked at the detailed state worksheets. Definitely worth checking the state-specific calculation pages in your tax software.

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This is a really complex situation that many people face when moving between states mid-year. From what you've described, there are several factors that could be causing the discrepancy between your calculations and TaxSlayer's results. First, Washington State actually doesn't have a personal income tax on wages, salaries, or most other types of income. Are you perhaps referring to a different state? If you meant a different state with income tax, that would explain the confusion. However, regarding the 529 distribution tax you mentioned - that's likely correct. Many states do impose taxes and penalties on non-qualified 529 withdrawals, and this is often overlooked when people do their own calculations. For Oregon, the difference you're seeing could be due to how they handle the various loss limitations. Oregon has specific rules about how much of your capital losses and rental losses can offset other income in the current tax year, and these limits might be stricter than federal rules or different from what you calculated. I'd recommend double-checking which state you actually lived in before Oregon (since Washington doesn't have income tax), and then reviewing both states' specific rules for part-year residents. The "taxation based on total annual income" method that others mentioned is definitely a key factor that catches many people off guard.

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Zara Ahmed

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kinda surprised no one mentioned this yet but another thing to consider is health insurance. if ur on ur parents insurance plan, some providers require that u be claimed as a dependent. not all do this but worth checking before u make any decisions.

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Actually, the Affordable Care Act allows young adults to remain on their parents' health insurance until age 26 regardless of tax dependency status, student status, or whether they live with their parents. That's federal law, so it applies in all states.

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Zara Ahmed

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oh thats good to know! i was told differently when i called my insurance last year but maybe the person was wrong or i misunderstood. thanks for correcting me! Appreciate that info since i was giving outdated advice. glad to know young adults can stay on parents insurance no matter what til 26.

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Grant Vikers

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I went through this exact situation with my parents two years ago! After a lot of research and talking to a tax professional, here's what I learned: Your mom is incorrect about it being fraud. The IRS explicitly states that claiming dependents is optional - you "may claim" qualifying dependents, not "must claim" them. This is clearly outlined in IRS Publication 501. However, the reality is more nuanced than just the tax aspect. Even if your parents don't claim you, you're still considered a dependent student for FAFSA purposes until you're 24 (unless you meet specific exceptions like being married, having dependents, military service, etc.). So federal financial aid likely won't change. BUT - and this is important - there can be tax benefits to consider. If your parents' income is too high to claim education credits, you might be able to claim the American Opportunity Tax Credit yourself if they don't claim you as a dependent. This could be worth up to $2,500. My advice: Run the numbers both ways. Calculate what your family saves/loses in total taxes under both scenarios, then factor in any potential institutional aid differences at your specific school. Sometimes the tax implications alone make it worthwhile, even without FAFSA changes. Also, definitely talk to your school's financial aid office about whether they consider tax dependency status for their own institutional aid - some do, some don't.

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Emma Thompson

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This is exactly the kind of detailed breakdown I was hoping for! Thank you so much for sharing your experience. The point about the American Opportunity Tax Credit is something I hadn't fully considered - my parents make too much to qualify for it, but I might be able to claim it myself if they don't claim me. Do you remember roughly how much your family ended up saving by going the route of not claiming you? And did you have to convince your parents initially, or were they open to running the numbers once you explained it properly? I'm definitely going to look up IRS Publication 501 to show my mom the official language about claiming dependents being optional. Having that official source might help get her to at least consider running the scenarios.

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Quick tip from someone who's been there - KEEP EVERY RECEIPT for anything remotely school related. My professor required this specific calculator for stats class, and I almost threw away the receipt. That $129 ended up being deductible as a required course material! Same goes for any required subscriptions to online platforms or software.

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Good advice! I just started using an app to scan and organize all my receipts. Makes it way easier at tax time.

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As someone who just went through this exact situation last year, I can definitely relate to the confusion! One thing that really helped me was organizing all my education-related expenses into categories first - tuition, required materials, technology, etc. Since you mentioned your parents still claim you as a dependent, they'll be the ones who can claim the American Opportunity Credit for your tuition expenses. But don't worry - you can still benefit! They can potentially get up to $2,500 back, which many parents are happy to share with their student. For your DoorDash income, make sure you're tracking your mileage religiously if you haven't been already. The standard mileage deduction is 67 cents per mile for 2024, and that can add up quickly with delivery work. Also keep track of any phone expenses related to the app, car maintenance, etc. One thing I wish someone had told me earlier - if you paid any student loan interest, that's deductible up to $2,500 even if you're claimed as a dependent. It's an "above-the-line" deduction, so it reduces your adjusted gross income. The laptop situation can be tricky, but if you have documentation from your graphic design program showing it was required, you should be good. Keep that syllabus or program requirements handy!

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This is such helpful advice! I'm in a similar boat as the original poster and had no idea about the student loan interest deduction. Quick question - when you say "above-the-line" deduction, what exactly does that mean? And do I need any special forms from my loan servicer to claim it? Also, for the mileage tracking with DoorDash - is there a specific app you'd recommend? I've been terrible about keeping track and I'm pretty sure I've missed out on a lot of potential deductions.

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