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7 Everyone's talking about the registration fees, but don't forget about depreciation! If you used the car for business purposes at all during those 5 years and claimed depreciation deductions, you'll need to factor that into your basis calculation too. This is called "depreciation recapture" and it can significantly affect how much of your profit is taxable.

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14 What if I didn't officially claim the car for business use but I did use it sometimes for side gig deliveries? Do I still need to worry about this depreciation thing?

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7 If you never claimed the car as a business expense on your tax returns, then you don't have to worry about depreciation recapture. The concern only applies if you took actual tax deductions for business use of the vehicle in prior years. However, if you did use it for your side gig but never claimed the deductions you were entitled to, that's a different issue - you missed out on potential tax savings in previous years, but it won't affect how you report the sale now. You'd simply use your original purchase price as your basis (minus any depreciation you actually claimed on tax returns, which in your case sounds like zero).

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2 Just wondering, is there a minimum profit amount before you have to report a car sale? I sold my old Honda for only $250 more than I paid for it after driving it for 3 years. Seems silly to have to report such a small gain.

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11 Technically, all capital gains should be reported regardless of size. But in reality, the IRS has bigger fish to fry than a $250 gain on a personal vehicle. Most people don't even report personal vehicle sales unless they're significant gains.

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Just wanted to add that you should be very careful with those tax relief companies that advertise on the radio. My brother paid one $4,500 upfront and they basically just put him on a payment plan he could have set up himself for free. Total ripoff. If you're considering an Offer in Compromise, know that the IRS has a pre-qualifier tool on their website where you can check if you might qualify before you even apply. It asks about your assets, income, expenses, etc. The IRS will only accept an offer if they believe it's the most they can reasonably collect from you.

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Dylan Fisher

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What's the link to that pre-qualifier tool? I can't find it on the IRS site and their search function is terrible.

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Here's the link to the IRS pre-qualifier tool: https://irs.treasury.gov/oic_pre_qualifier/. It's definitely not easy to find on their site! The tool walks you through a series of questions about your financial situation to help determine if an Offer in Compromise might be right for you. It's not a guarantee, but it's a good starting point before you invest time in the full application.

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Edwards Hugo

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One thing nobody's mentioned is that if you do qualify for an Offer in Compromise, you MUST stay completely compliant with all tax filing and payment requirements for 5 years after acceptance. If you mess up and don't file on time or don't pay new taxes when due, the IRS can revoke the entire deal and reinstate the original debt. I learned this the hard way when I missed filing a quarterly estimated payment after my OIC was accepted. The IRS sent me a letter threatening to revoke the entire agreement. Had to scramble to get back into compliance.

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Gianna Scott

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Does that compliance requirement also apply to payment plans or just OICs?

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Edwards Hugo

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Payment plans (installment agreements) also have compliance requirements, but they're typically not as strict as the 5-year requirement for an Offer in Compromise. With a payment plan, you generally need to file on time and pay on time while the agreement is in effect. If you default on a payment plan by missing payments or failing to file future returns, the IRS can terminate your agreement and may resume collection actions. They're sometimes willing to reinstate agreements if you quickly get back into compliance, but it's best not to test their patience.

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Ava Garcia

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I'd recommend TaxAct for your situation. It's cheaper than TurboTax but still handles all the complicated stuff like self-employment, home purchase, and changing filing status. I was in a similar situation last year (minus the marriage) and found their guidance for home office deductions really clear and helpful. The key with ANY tax software is to take your time and read everything carefully. Don't rush through it. I actually did my return twice with different software (TaxAct and FreeTaxUSA) to compare the results before filing. They came out almost identical which gave me confidence I was doing it right.

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StarSailor}

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How long did it take you to complete your return with the self-employment stuff? I'm trying to budget my time and wondering if I should just block off an entire weekend.

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Ava Garcia

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It took me about 4-5 hours total, but that was spread over two evenings. The self-employment section definitely takes the most time, especially the first year when you're learning what expenses qualify and gathering all your receipts and documentation. I'd recommend setting aside at least a half-day of uninterrupted time, and make sure you have all your documents organized before you start. Have a folder with all your receipts for business expenses, home office measurements, mortgage documents, etc. Being organized upfront saves tons of time during the actual filing process.

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Miguel Silva

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For complex situations like yours, I'd suggest going with a tax professional this first year. My situation was similar (self-employed, bought house), and I paid a CPA about $350 to do my taxes. Expensive, yes, but he found about $2,200 in deductions I would have missed. Plus, I took detailed notes on what he did. The next year, I used his return as a "template" and was able to DIY with TaxHawk. Having that professionally prepared return as a reference was super helpful. Think of it as "tax education" - spend on a pro once, learn from them, then DIY in future years.

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This is great advice! Do you just find a random CPA or are there ones that specialize in self-employment situations? I'm worried I'll end up with someone who just plugs numbers into software like I could do myself.

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Just a heads up - while Dubai has no income tax, there are other financial considerations for international students: 1. VAT is 5% on most purchases 2. Some banking services have fees 3. If you're sending money internationally, there may be transfer fees 4. Your student visa has costs for renewal None of this is related to income tax, but factor these into your budget. Also, keep excellent records of which days you're physically present in which countries - this matters a LOT for determining tax residency status in your home country.

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Does anyone know how much the student visa renewal typically costs? And do international students get any discounts on banking services? I'm planning my budget for next semester.

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Student visa renewal costs around 1,100-1,500 AED (roughly $300-400 USD) depending on the emirate and institution. This typically includes the visa fee, medical examination, and Emirates ID card. For banking, several UAE banks offer student accounts with reduced or waived fees. Emirates NBD and ADCB have specific student packages with no minimum balance requirements and free international transfers to certain countries. Some universities also have partnerships with specific banks that provide additional benefits to their students. Check with your institution as they might have recommendations based on existing relationships.

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Don't forget about double taxation agreements! I'm studying in Dubai now and had to check if there's a treaty between UAE and my country (Malaysia). This affects how foreign income is taxed. Check if your country has such an agreement with UAE. Even without one, most countries have unilateral relief to prevent double taxation. For example, I still have to declare my worldwide income in Malaysia, but I get tax credits for any income that theoretically would've been taxed in UAE (even though UAE doesn't actually tax it).

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Does everyone know if there's a good resource to check these agreements? I'm from South Africa and not sure where to look for this info.

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Don't forget about state taxes too! Everyone here is talking about federal returns, but depending on which state you lived in, you'll likely need to file state returns too. Each state has different rules about back taxes and penalties. When I caught up on my unfiled taxes, I was actually more worried about California (where I lived) than the IRS. California's Franchise Tax Board can be even more aggressive than the IRS about collecting!

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Oh crap, I didn't even think about state taxes. I lived in Illinois for two of those years and New York for part of another before moving abroad. Are the processes similar for catching up on state taxes? Do I need to file state returns before federal?

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The processes are similar but each state has its own forms and procedures. Illinois and New York both have relatively straightforward processes for filing past-due returns, but they'll have different forms than what you're filing federally. Both states maintain prior year forms on their tax department websites. You don't necessarily need to file state before federal - you can work on them simultaneously. However, since most state returns start with your federal AGI or taxable income, it often makes practical sense to complete your federal return first. Just be aware that both states may have their own penalties and interest for late filing, separate from the IRS penalties. New York in particular can be quite aggressive with penalties, so don't delay getting those filed once you start the process.

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Oscar Murphy

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Since you mentioned you're currently abroad, don't forget about the FBAR (Foreign Bank Account Report) requirements if you have foreign bank accounts with a combined total of over $10,000 at any point during the year. Those have separate (and potentially much larger) penalties for non-filing than regular tax returns. You file those separately from your tax returns through FinCEN, and unlike tax returns, they're due yearly regardless of whether you owe taxes or not.

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Nora Bennett

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This! The FBAR penalties are no joke. My cousin got hit with a $10,000 penalty for a non-willful violation. If they determine it was willful, penalties can go up to $100,000 or 50% of the account balance. Definitely something to take seriously!

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