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One thing to be careful about - the MAGI thresholds for 2025 (based on 2023 income) have been adjusted for inflation. The threshold for the first IRMAA bracket for single filers is now $103,000, not $97,000 like it was previously. So your 2023 income of $112,229 is actually putting you in the first IRMAA bracket, not the second. Make sure you're looking at the current year's threshold chart when figuring out where you stand! Also, the 2-year lookback is what confuses most people. In 2025, they'll use your 2023 return. Completing the SSA-44 now documents your life-changing event (retirement) so when they look at your 2023 income in 2025, they'll have that documentation already in place.
Thank you for pointing this out! I was looking at an older chart. So my Roth conversion didn't push me as far into IRMAA territory as I initially thought. That's somewhat relieving. The 2-year lookback definitely makes this more complicated to plan around. So to clarify - if I keep my 2024 income under the threshold as indicated in Step 3, that would affect my IRMAA premiums in 2026, correct?
Yes, exactly right. Your 2024 income will determine your IRMAA in 2026. So keeping your 2024 income under the threshold is good planning. But the SSA-44 form you're filling out now is addressing a different issue - it's saying "don't use my 2023 income for 2025 IRMAA calculations because I had a life-changing event (retirement)." If approved, they'll instead look at your projected post-retirement income to determine your 2025 IRMAA.
The confusion around Step 3 is totally understandable! I went through this same process when I retired early in 2022. Step 3 essentially serves as a "heads up" to the SSA that your income situation is stabilizing at a lower level after your life-changing event. While it won't impact your current year's IRMAA, it creates a record that you anticipated the income reduction would continue. One thing I learned the hard way - make sure you're conservative with your Step 3 projection. If you put down $100,000 but your actual 2024 AGI ends up being higher (maybe you have unexpected capital gains or required distributions), it could complicate future appeals. The SSA likes consistency between projections and actual results. Also, don't forget that even though your 2023 Roth conversion pushed you over the threshold, retirement is still a qualifying life-changing event. The key is showing that your ongoing income (without that one-time conversion) is now substantially lower than what the 2-year lookback would suggest. Good luck with the appeal! The documentation you're creating now will definitely help streamline things when 2025 rolls around.
This is really helpful advice about being conservative with Step 3 projections! I hadn't thought about the potential complications if my actual income ends up higher than projected. Quick question - when you say "substantially lower," is there a specific percentage or dollar amount the SSA looks for when evaluating whether the ongoing income justifies the life-changing event appeal? Or is it more of a case-by-case assessment? Also, did you find that having the Roth conversion as a one-time event actually helped your case, since it clearly showed the income spike wasn't representative of your ongoing retirement income level?
4 I think an important factor nobody's mentioned is FUTURE plans for the app. If you intend to keep developing it, adding features, or creating more apps, the IRS would likely see this as an ongoing business activity rather than a hobby. One advantage of filing as self-employed now is that it establishes a pattern if your app income increases in the future. It's easier to start as self-employed and stay consistent than to switch from hobby to self-employed when profits increase.
I'm dealing with a similar situation with my freelance graphic design work that I do occasionally on weekends. Based on everything I've read here and my own research, it really seems like the profit motive test is key. The fact that you deliberately switched your app from free to paid shows clear intent to generate profit, even if the amount is small. That's probably the strongest indicator that this should be treated as self-employment rather than a hobby. I'd also consider what you plan to do going forward. Are you going to keep the app paid? Might you develop other apps? Even small actions like adjusting pricing or promoting the app could further demonstrate business intent. The expense deduction issue is huge too. Losing the ability to deduct that $125 developer fee means you're essentially paying taxes on income you didn't actually receive after expenses. That seems fundamentally unfair and not what the tax code is designed to do. I think I'm leaning toward Schedule C for my own situation after reading all these responses. Better to establish the pattern now while everything is well-documented and straightforward.
I completely agree with your analysis about the profit motive test being key here. The deliberate switch from free to paid really does demonstrate business intent, regardless of the amount earned. Your point about establishing the pattern early is smart too. I've seen situations where people try to switch classifications later and it creates complications with the IRS. Starting with Schedule C when you have clear documentation (the developer fee, Apple's commission statements, etc.) makes everything much cleaner. The expense deduction issue you mentioned is exactly right - paying taxes on $170 when you only netted $45 after the developer fee just doesn't make sense from a tax policy perspective. Schedule C ensures you're only taxed on actual profit, which seems much more fair and accurate.
Has anyone actually had experience with both options (checking box C vs. doing the multiple jobs worksheet)? I did the worksheet last year after getting married and I think we ended up overwithholding by like $4000! Wondering if just checking the box would have been better...
Thanks for all the detailed responses everyone! This is exactly the kind of real-world experience I was hoping for. Based on what I'm reading, it sounds like the "two jobs total" box might be too blunt an instrument for our income difference. The $50k gap between my salary and my husband's seems significant enough that we'd probably end up overwithholding if we just check box C. I think my plan is to start with the IRS Tax Withholding Estimator that Leslie mentioned, and then maybe try one of the other tools people have suggested if I need more specific guidance on filling out the actual form. I definitely want to avoid both owing a bunch at tax time AND giving the government an interest-free loan! One follow-up question - should we both update our W-4s at the same time, or is it better to adjust mine first (as the higher earner) and see how that affects our withholding before touching his?
I'd definitely recommend adjusting yours first since you're the higher earner - that way you can see the immediate impact on your paychecks and get a feel for whether you're on the right track. From my experience, making changes to both W-4s simultaneously can make it really hard to tell which adjustment is causing what effect. Start with yours, give it 2-3 pay periods to see how it looks, and then fine-tune your husband's if needed. Also, just a heads up - if either of you gets performance bonuses or other variable income throughout the year, you might need to revisit this. Bonuses can throw off your withholding calculations pretty significantly!
I had this exact same issue last week! What finally worked for me was making sure I was using the EXACT refund amount from line 35a on my 1040 form, not any estimated amount. Also double-check that you're using "Single" vs "Head of Household" - that trips people up sometimes. The system is definitely glitchy right now but hang in there!
Heather Tyson
My accountant told me that the IRS has a first-time penalty abatement policy! If you haven't had any penalties in the past 3 tax years, you can often get the underpayment penalty waived completely. You have to specifically request this though - they don't offer it automatically. Worth a shot if this is your first time with this issue.
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Raul Neal
ā¢The first-time penalty abatement usually doesn't apply to estimated tax penalties (Form 2210). It typically applies to failure-to-file and failure-to-pay penalties. Estimated tax penalties are considered different because they're not just about timely filing/payment but about making required payments throughout the year.
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Brianna Schmidt
I went through this exact same situation last year! My income jumped from about $45k to $82k due to some freelance contracts that came in late in the year. Here's what I learned: First, don't panic - the penalty isn't as scary as it seems. For most people it ends up being a few hundred dollars, not thousands. Second, definitely look into the annualized income method that Beth mentioned. Since your big income jump happened late in the year, this could significantly reduce your penalty. The IRS basically recalculates what your quarterly payments should have been based on when you actually earned the money. Also check if you had any withholding from other sources (like a W-2 job earlier in the year, or backup withholding). The IRS treats all withholding as if it was spread evenly throughout the year, which can help reduce the underpayment for earlier quarters. One thing I wish I'd known - if your total tax liability is under $1,000 after subtracting withholding and credits, you don't owe the penalty at all. Worth double-checking your math on that. The form is intimidating but if you take it step by step, it's manageable. And paying now definitely helps stop the interest from growing, even if it doesn't eliminate the penalty completely.
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Amara Adebayo
ā¢This is really reassuring, thank you! I'm in almost the exact same boat - my income went from around $50k to $78k because of two big freelance projects that came through in Q4. I was worried I was looking at thousands in penalties but if it's just a few hundred that's much more manageable. I'm definitely going to look into that annualized income method since it sounds like our situations are so similar. Did you end up doing the calculations yourself or did you use software/get help? The form looks pretty complex and I want to make sure I don't mess it up and make things worse. Also, when you say "if your total tax liability is under $1,000" - is that the total amount you owe when you file, or something else? I think I'll owe around $8,000 when I file but I'm not sure if that's what you're referring to.
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