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Don't forget about city/county tax jurisdictions! Depends on your state, but where I am we have state, county AND city sales taxes - all with different rates and filing requirements. Almost screwed myself over by only filing state taxes my first year.
Omg yes, THIS. I'm in Colorado and we have like 7 different sales tax jurisdictions depending on the exact address. It's a total nightmare. I used to think I could just charge one rate for everything.
As someone who's been through this exact confusion with my small bakery, I feel your pain! The biggest lightbulb moment for me was realizing that sales tax is literally just a collection service - you're collecting money on behalf of the state, not paying a tax on your business income. Think of it this way: when a customer pays you $10.80 for a $10 meal, you actually received $10 in revenue for your business and $0.80 that belongs to the state. That $0.80 should go straight to a separate "sales tax collected" account and get sent to the state exactly as collected. Your business expenses (food costs, delivery app fees, etc.) are completely separate and get deducted when you file your income tax returns, not your sales tax returns. Two totally different forms for two totally different purposes. Most states have pretty good online resources for new business owners - definitely worth checking your state's revenue department website for restaurant-specific guidance. Also, many states offer free workshops for new business owners that cover sales tax basics. Hang in there!
This is such a helpful way to think about it! The "collection service" analogy really clicked for me. I've been making this way more complicated than it needs to be. Quick question though - when you mention keeping the sales tax in a separate account, do you mean literally a different bank account? Or just tracking it separately in my bookkeeping? I've just been lumping everything together in one business checking account and trying to figure out the math later. Also, did you find your state's workshops actually useful? I saw some listed on my state's website but wasn't sure if they'd be too basic or actually cover the restaurant-specific stuff we deal with.
Wait... are you SURE you know all your profits/losses exactly? Did u account for wash sales????? That's where most ppl mess up with self-calculating. Robinhood doesnt make it obvious in the app when wash sales happen but they report them on the 1099!!!
This is a great point. Wash sales can be super confusing. For anyone who doesn't know, if you sell a stock at a loss and buy the same or "substantially identical" security within 30 days before or after the sale, you can't claim that loss immediately. The disallowed loss gets added to the cost basis of the replacement shares.
I'm going through this exact same situation right now! Reading through all these comments has been super helpful. I think I'm convinced to just wait for the official 1099 from Robinhood rather than risk the headache later. @Angel Campbell - your story about the amended return really sealed the deal for me. The stress and extra costs just aren't worth trying to save a few weeks. Plus after seeing the discussion about wash sales, I'm realizing there might be things I missed in my own calculations that could cause problems. Does anyone know if there's a way to check when Robinhood typically sends out their forms? I know the legal deadline is February 15th, but wondering if they usually get them out earlier than that.
I'm pretty sure you need to file Form 8606 along with your return when dealing with distributions from inherited Roth IRAs, especially when there's potentially taxable amounts involved. The form helps document your basis calculation. Has anyone here had to fill that out for a similar situation?
Yes, you're right about Form 8606, but Part III is specifically for Roth IRA distributions. It walks you through the calculation to determine the taxable amount. It's fairly straightforward - you'll enter the total distribution, then your basis (the contribution amount), and it will calculate the taxable portion for you.
Just want to add another important consideration that I haven't seen mentioned yet - make sure you understand the distribution timeline requirements for inherited Roth IRAs. As a non-spouse beneficiary, your husband will need to completely distribute the entire inherited Roth IRA within 10 years of your mother-in-law's death (assuming she passed away in 2020 or later). This is separate from the tax calculation you're dealing with now, but it's crucial for planning purposes. Unlike the old "stretch" rules, you can't keep the money growing in the inherited Roth indefinitely. The good news is there are no required minimum distributions during those 10 years - you can take it all out in year 10 if you want, or spread it out however works best for your tax situation. Given that you're dealing with a relatively small taxable amount (if any), this might actually work in your favor for tax planning over the next decade.
This is really helpful information about the 10-year rule that I wasn't aware of! So just to make sure I understand correctly - since my husband is inheriting from his mother (non-spouse), he has until 10 years from her death date to fully distribute the account, but he can choose when and how much to take out each year during that period? Given that we're potentially looking at only $1,500 in taxable earnings (if the 5-year rule isn't met), it sounds like we could strategically time future distributions to minimize tax impact. Are there any other tax considerations we should be thinking about for future distributions from this inherited Roth, or would subsequent distributions be completely tax-free since the earnings portion was already taxed this year?
One thing nobody has mentioned - leasing might be a better option if you plan to upgrade vehicles frequently. No depreciation recapture to worry about since you never owned the asset. Plus you can still deduct the lease payments as a business expense.
Leasing has its own issues though. The payments are often higher than financing, and there are typically mileage restrictions that can be problematic for many businesses. Also, you lose the opportunity for any equity buildup.
Something to consider that might help with your planning - the recapture calculation gets more complex if you use the vehicle for both business and personal use. If your heavy-duty truck is used 80% for business and 20% personal, only the business portion of the depreciation is subject to recapture rules. Also, keep detailed records of your business mileage and usage from day one. The IRS can challenge your depreciation deductions if you can't prove the business use percentage, which would affect both your original deduction and any recapture calculations later. One more tip: if you're considering the trade-in route, get multiple appraisals for the fair market value before making the deal. Dealerships sometimes manipulate trade-in values to make deals look better, but the IRS will use actual fair market value for recapture calculations, not whatever number appears on the dealer paperwork.
This is really helpful advice about the business vs personal use percentage! I hadn't thought about how that would affect the recapture calculation. Quick question though - if I use the truck 80% for business, does that mean I can only claim 80% of the purchase price for Section 179/bonus depreciation in the first place? And then later, only that 80% business portion would be subject to recapture? Want to make sure I understand this correctly before I make my purchase decision.
Anna Kerber
The advance is basically a contract. Your required to file with them to get the loan paid back properly. Its in the fine print noone reads lol
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Cole Roush
ā¢ugh shoulda known there was a catch š¤®
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Liam McGuire
Yeah unfortunately that's how these refund advance loans work - they create a binding agreement that ties you to their filing service. The advance is essentially a short-term loan against your expected refund, and Jackson Hewitt needs to be the one processing your return to ensure the loan gets repaid directly from your refund. If you file elsewhere, you'd have to manually repay the advance which defeats the whole purpose. Lesson learned for next year - if you want flexibility in choosing your tax prep service, skip the advance and just wait for your actual refund!
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Isabella Silva
ā¢This is really helpful context, thanks! I'm new to tax filing and had no idea these advances came with such strings attached. Definitely something to keep in mind for future years - the convenience of getting money early isn't worth being locked into one service.
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Daniel Rogers
ā¢Exactly! These companies are pretty clever about making the advance seem like "free money" but there's always fine print. I made the same mistake my first year filing - took an advance from H&R Block and then wanted to switch to FreeTaxUSA because it was cheaper. Had to stick with H&R Block and paid way more in fees than I would have otherwise. Now I just file early and wait for my regular refund - usually only takes 1-2 weeks anyway if you e-file.
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