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Does anyone know if the same rules apply for backdoor Roth contributions? I've filled out Form 8606 for nondeductible traditional IRA contributions in TaxSlayer, but I already converted them to Roth a few weeks later. Do I need to wait until next year to report the conversion or do I report both the contribution and conversion on this year's taxes?

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If you made a 2024 contribution to a traditional IRA and then converted it to a Roth in 2025, you'll report them separately. On your 2024 return (which you're filing now), you'll only report the nondeductible contribution on Form 8606 Part I. Then, on your 2025 return (which you'll file next year), you'll report the conversion on Form 8606 Parts I and II.

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Thanks for clearing that up! So I'll just report the contribution for now on my 2024 taxes, and deal with the conversion part when I file next year. That makes sense and is simpler than trying to report everything at once.

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Jamal Carter

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Just wanted to add that when you do your Roth conversion later this year, make sure you understand the pro-rata rule if you have any other traditional IRA balances with pre-tax money. The IRS looks at ALL your traditional IRAs combined when calculating how much of your conversion is taxable. For example, if you have $7,000 in nondeductible contributions but also have $14,000 in a rollover IRA from an old 401k, only 1/3 of your conversion would be tax-free ($7,000 out of $21,000 total). This trips up a lot of people doing backdoor Roths. You might want to consider rolling any pre-tax IRA money back into a current 401k before converting to keep things clean.

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This is such an important point that I wish more people knew about! I made this exact mistake a couple years ago. I had about $15,000 in a rollover IRA from my previous job and didn't realize it would affect my backdoor Roth conversion. I thought since I was only converting the $6,000 I had just contributed as nondeductible, the whole thing would be tax-free. Boy was I wrong when I got my 1099-R! The pro-rata calculation meant I owed taxes on a much bigger portion than expected. Rolling that old 401k money back into my current employer's plan before doing the conversion would have saved me a lot of headaches and tax liability. Now I always tell people to clean up all their traditional IRA balances first if they're planning to do backdoor Roths regularly.

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Rachel Clark

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This discussion has been incredibly valuable! As someone who's been struggling with the same frontloading mistake, I wanted to share what I learned after finally getting through to my plan administrator. Turns out my plan has a quirky true-up provision - they calculate it in January but only deposit it if you contribute at least $1 in December of the contribution year. So even if you frontload and max out early, you need to make sure you have at least a tiny contribution in your final paycheck to trigger the true-up calculation. This detail wasn't anywhere in my plan documents, and HR had no idea about it. Only the specialized retirement team knew this specific requirement. It makes me wonder how many people are missing out on true-up payments simply because they don't know about these hidden conditions. For 2025, I'm switching to the even distribution approach like many others here suggested. The math is straightforward: $885.65 per paycheck for 26 pay periods gets me to exactly $23,027, leaving a small buffer for any rounding issues. This way I'll get every dollar of employer match throughout the year without having to worry about obscure true-up rules. Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences - it's saved me from repeating the same expensive mistake next year!

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Chloe Harris

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Wow, that's such an obscure requirement about needing to contribute at least $1 in December to trigger the true-up! It really highlights how important it is to get detailed information directly from the plan administrators rather than relying on HR or even the plan documents themselves. Your calculation of $885.65 per paycheck is really helpful - I'm going to use a similar approach for my planning. It's reassuring to see so many people in this thread who have successfully switched from frontloading to the even distribution strategy. One question I have is whether you plan to set this up as a fixed dollar amount per paycheck or as a percentage of salary? I'm leaning toward percentage since it would automatically adjust if I get any mid-year salary changes, but I'm worried about accidentally going over the limit if I get a larger bonus than expected. Thanks for taking the time to call your administrator and share those details - it's exactly the kind of real-world insight that makes these discussions so valuable!

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This has been such an enlightening thread! I'm facing the exact same dilemma for 2025 planning. After reading everyone's experiences, it's clear that the even distribution strategy is the way to go to avoid missing employer match. One thing I'm still trying to wrap my head around is the interaction between regular 401k contributions and HSA contributions when trying to optimize total tax-advantaged savings. For those who are maxing out both accounts ($23,000 for 401k + $4,300 for HSA in 2025), how do you prioritize the timing? I'm thinking of doing my HSA contributions early in the year since there's no employer match to worry about, then spreading my 401k contributions evenly to capture the full employer match throughout the year. This would also help with cash flow since I'd have the HSA maxed out early and can focus on the 401k rhythm. Has anyone found success with this approach, or are there other considerations I should be thinking about when coordinating multiple retirement account contributions?

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Form 3176C is basically the IRS saying "hold up, we need to double-check some stuff before we send your refund." It's not necessarily bad news - just means they want to verify income, dependents, or other info on your return. The waiting sucks but it's pretty routine. Just respond quickly with whatever docs they're asking for and you should be good to go!

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Fiona Sand

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Thanks for explaining it in simple terms! That actually makes me feel a bit better about the whole situation. I was worried it meant something was wrong with my return but sounds like it's just standard verification stuff. Appreciate the reassurance šŸ™

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I went through this exact same thing last year with Form 3176C! The worst part is definitely the waiting, but here's what helped me: respond ASAP with all the requested documents, send everything certified mail so you have proof they received it, and don't panic if you don't hear back right away. The IRS moves slow but they will eventually process it. My refund came through after about 10 weeks once I sent in the verification docs. Hang in there!

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10 weeks isn't too bad considering what others have said! Did you have to send in W-2s or other specific documents? Trying to figure out what they might ask for so I can get everything ready

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Confused with different total tax amounts when comparing tax software calculations

I'm not super familiar with taxes but I thought it should be pretty straightforward for me since I'm just a single W2 employee. For the 2023 tax year, my Box 1 wages were $121,254. My interest income on my 1099-INT was $2,986. I used TurboTax and my total tax was calculated at $17,968. Since $17,199 was already withheld, I had to pay an extra $769. After that experience, I started having an additional $130 taken out for federal taxes each paycheck to avoid owing next time. Fast forward to this year (2024 tax filing), my Box 1 wages were $125,164, with $20,396 withheld for federal taxes in Box 2. My interest income on my 1099-INT was $2,427. I decided to try H&R Block since they had a sale going on. Their software calculated my total tax as $20,869 and said I still owed $473. This seemed off, so I went to the IRS website to estimate my taxes. According to their calculator, my AGI is $97,247 and I qualify for free filing. My total income is $127,591 and my taxable income is $110,239. The IRS calculated my total tax as $18,382. Since I already had $20,396 withheld, it showed I should get a refund of $2,014. Now I'm completely confused because we're talking about almost a $2,500 difference between H&R Block and the IRS calculator! My gut feeling is that the IRS calculator is correct and H&R Block made an error, since I earned slightly more this year so my taxes should be a bit higher than last year. That's what I was expecting. Would anyone experienced mind looking at these numbers to confirm? I can share all the details from my W2 if needed. Thanks!

This happened to me too!! I ended up downloading my return as a PDF from both H&R Block and TurboTax, then going through them line by line to find the differences. It took forever but I finally found that one software was interpreting my retirement contributions differently. One suggestion is to check if there's anything unusual about your W2 - any code in Box 12 that might be interpreted differently by different software?

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This is solid advice! Line-by-line comparison is tedious but effective. I work in payroll and Box 12 codes cause the most confusion with tax software. Codes D, E, F, G, H and S all relate to different types of retirement contributions and sometimes software doesn't categorize them correctly.

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Sophia Russo

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Based on your numbers, the IRS calculator result seems much more reasonable. A $2,500 difference between tax software is definitely not normal for a straightforward W2 + interest income situation. Here's what I'd suggest checking in H&R Block: 1. **Verify your AGI calculation** - With $125,164 in Box 1 wages plus $2,427 interest, but an AGI of only $97,247 on the IRS calculator, you're clearly getting substantial above-the-line deductions (likely your maxed 401k and HSA). Make sure H&R Block captured these correctly. 2. **Check Box 12 codes on your W2** - Look for codes like D (401k elective deferrals), W (HSA employer contributions), etc. Sometimes software misinterprets these. 3. **Review your tax bracket calculation** - With a taxable income around $110,239, most of your income should be taxed at 22%, not higher brackets. The math check: If your taxable income is $110,239, your federal tax should be roughly $18,289 (using 2024 brackets), which aligns much better with the IRS calculator than H&R Block's result. I'd recommend either going through H&R Block line-by-line to find the error, or trying a different tax software to get a third opinion. The IRS calculator is usually quite accurate for straightforward situations like yours.

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This is exactly what I'm dealing with right now! I switched to a new payment processor mid-year and they're treating my direct bank transfers as "card transactions" on the 1099-K even though no cards were involved. It's so frustrating. One thing I learned from my accountant is that you should definitely NOT contact your clients to "fix" the 1099-NECs they already sent. Those are correct - they paid you for services and properly reported it. The issue is with the payment processor's classification, but trying to get them to change it now will likely just create more confusion. The reconciliation approach mentioned above is spot on. I'm creating a simple spreadsheet that shows: Date | Client Name | Amount | Reported on 1099-NEC | Also Reported on 1099-K. This way if the IRS ever questions it, I can clearly show that Payment A from Client X appears on both forms for the same transaction. Has anyone successfully gotten a payment processor to reclassify ACH transfers after the fact? I'm wondering if it's even worth the hassle or if I should just focus on proper documentation.

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Ava Garcia

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I wouldn't waste time trying to get the payment processor to reclassify ACH transfers at this point. Most processors have automated systems that generate 1099-Ks based on their internal categorization, and getting them to issue corrected forms is usually a nightmare that takes months. Your spreadsheet approach is perfect - that's exactly the kind of documentation the IRS wants to see if they have questions. I'd add one more column for "Payment Method" (ACH, check, etc.) to make it crystal clear that these weren't actually card transactions despite how the processor reported them. The key thing to remember is that the IRS cares about your actual income, not how many different forms report it. As long as you're not double-counting the same payments in your gross receipts, you're fine. Keep those records organized and you'll be able to handle any questions that come up.

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I'm dealing with a very similar situation and wanted to share what my CPA told me that might help others here. The most important thing is to NOT panic about this - the IRS systems are designed to handle overlapping 1099s, especially with the new expanded 1099-K reporting. Here's what I learned: When you file Schedule C, you'll report your total business income on Line 1 (gross receipts). This should be the actual amount you received, not the sum of all your 1099s. So if you received $50,000 in client payments that show up on both 1099-NECs and a 1099-K, you still only report $50,000 in income. My CPA also mentioned that the IRS has specific matching algorithms that can identify when the same income appears on multiple forms from related entities (like a client and their payment processor). They're not going to automatically assume you made twice the money. That said, definitely keep detailed records showing the relationship between the forms. I created a simple table showing each payment, which client it came from, and which forms reported it. This documentation stays in my files - I don't submit it unless specifically requested. One more tip: if you use tax software, make sure you enter the 1099s correctly. Most software will ask if any income was reported on multiple forms and help you avoid double-counting.

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This is really reassuring to hear! I was starting to stress about getting flagged for an audit, but it sounds like the IRS systems are more sophisticated than I thought. Quick question - when you mention tax software asking about income reported on multiple forms, do you know if that applies to all the major platforms like TurboTax, H&R Block, etc.? I usually do my own taxes but this year feels more complicated with all these overlapping forms. Want to make sure I pick software that can handle this situation properly. Also, did your CPA mention anything about estimated tax payments? I'm wondering if I need to adjust my quarterly payments based on the gross receipts amount rather than trying to factor in all the different 1099 totals.

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