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Miguel Diaz

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9 Tax preparer here. Just to add some clarity: The "under $600" confusion is one of the most common issues I see with clients. The $600 threshold only determines whether the PAYER must issue a 1099 form. It has absolutely nothing to do with whether YOU must report the income. All income from any source is legally required to be reported on your tax return, even if it's $5. The IRS computer matching system will catch discrepancies between what's reported by others using your SSN and what you report on your return, regardless of amount.

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Miguel Diaz

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17 But realistically, would the IRS really come after someone for not reporting a tiny amount like $50 or $100? I mean, they must have bigger fish to fry, right?

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Miguel Diaz

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9 While the IRS certainly focuses more resources on larger discrepancies, their automated matching system doesn't discriminate based on amount. I've had clients receive notices for discrepancies as small as $83. The issue isn't that they're "coming after you" for small amounts - it's that their system automatically flags mismatches. Once flagged, it can trigger notices, potential penalties, and interest on the unpaid tax. The headache of dealing with IRS correspondence typically far outweighs the small amount of tax you might owe on minor income. Plus, establishing a pattern of accurate reporting helps if you're ever selected for audit for other reasons. Better to report everything properly than risk complications over small amounts.

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Miguel Diaz

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4 Does anyone know if this applies to stuff sold on Facebook Marketplace too? I sold some old furniture and made maybe $400 total last year. No 1099 forms or anything, just cash and Venmo. Do I seriously need to report that??

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Miguel Diaz

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10 If you sold personal items for less than you originally paid for them (like used furniture), that's not considered taxable income - it's actually a personal loss. You only need to report income from selling things if you made a profit compared to what you originally paid. For example, if you bought a couch for $800 and sold it used for $300, that's not taxable income because you sold at a loss. But if you bought items specifically to resell them at a higher price, that would be taxable no matter the amount.

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That's a relief! I was worried I'd have to track down receipts from years ago. Most of what I sold was definitely at a loss - old couch, dining table, stuff like that. Thanks for clarifying the difference between personal items and actual business sales!

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As someone who recently passed all three parts of the SEE exam, I wanted to add a few thoughts to this great discussion. The advice here is spot-on, especially about the importance of practice questions and understanding the "why" behind tax rules rather than just memorizing. One thing I'd emphasize that hasn't been mentioned much is the value of creating your own study schedule and sticking to it religiously. I found that consistency was more important than intensity - studying 1-2 hours daily for 8 weeks worked better for me than cramming for 4 weeks. Regarding which part to start with, I'd actually recommend Part 1 first since it covers individual taxation concepts that form the foundation for understanding business and representation topics in Parts 2 and 3. Plus, getting that first pass under your belt builds tremendous confidence. For timing between parts, I spaced mine about 6-8 weeks apart to allow proper preparation time without losing momentum. The entire process took me about 7 months from start to finish, including one retake on Part 2. Don't get too caught up in finding the "perfect" study materials - whether it's Gleim, Surgent, or Fast Forward Academy, they're all solid. The key is picking one comprehensive system and committing to it fully rather than jumping between resources. Best of luck to everyone on this journey - becoming an EA is absolutely worth the effort!

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Thank you for sharing your experience and timeline! Your point about consistency over intensity really resonates with me. I'm just starting this journey and have been trying to figure out a realistic study schedule that I can actually stick to. The 7-month timeline you mentioned is really helpful for setting expectations. Did you find that 6-8 weeks between parts was enough time to fully prepare, or did you feel rushed at all? I'm trying to balance wanting to maintain momentum with giving myself adequate preparation time. Also, when you mention "committing fully" to one comprehensive system, did you use any supplemental resources at all, or did you stick strictly to your main course materials? Some of the tools mentioned here like taxr.ai for concept clarification sound potentially helpful, but I don't want to overwhelm myself with too many resources. Your advice about Part 1 first makes a lot of sense - building that foundation seems crucial before tackling the more complex business topics. Thanks for taking the time to share such detailed guidance!

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Coming from someone who just scheduled my Part 1 exam for next month, I want to thank everyone for this incredibly comprehensive discussion! The range of study approaches and resources mentioned here has been eye-opening. I've been using Surgent as my main course and found their adaptive learning technology really helpful for identifying my weak areas. But reading about the supplemental resources like taxr.ai and the specific IRS publications Dylan listed has me thinking I should diversify my approach a bit. One strategy that's been working well for me is creating flashcards for the trickier concepts (like the various AGI thresholds and phase-out ranges) using Anki. The spaced repetition really helps cement those details that are easy to mix up under exam pressure. For anyone just starting out, I'd also recommend taking a diagnostic test early on to see where you stand. Most of the major prep courses offer them, and it really helped me understand the scope of what I needed to learn. Don't be discouraged if you bomb it - I scored a 32% on my first diagnostic and now I'm consistently hitting 75-80% on practice exams. The journey is definitely challenging but this community makes it feel much less overwhelming. Thanks for sharing all your experiences and insights!

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Paolo Rizzo

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Everyone's talking about the tax benefits, but don't forget about stimulus checks or recovery rebates! If there's another round of those in 2025 for the 2024 tax year (you never know!), having extra dependents could mean more stimulus money. During the last rounds, it was an extra $1400-$1600 per dependent. This is separate from the regular tax benefits and something to consider if you legitimately qualify to claim them. Just make sure you're eligible first - as others said, the living situation makes this complicated.

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Kyle Wallace

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The key thing everyone's missing here is that your mom not filing taxes doesn't automatically make you eligible to claim your brothers. The IRS looks at who actually has the right to claim them based on the dependency tests, not who chooses to file. Since your brothers don't live with you, you'd need to meet the "qualifying relative" test, which means providing more than 50% of their total support AND they can't be claimed by anyone else who has a stronger claim (like your mom). Even if your mom doesn't file, she still technically has the stronger claim as their parent and primary caregiver. Your $800-1000 monthly support might be substantial, but you'd need to prove it covers more than half of ALL their expenses - housing, food, medical, clothing, education, etc. The IRS will want detailed records showing exactly what your money paid for. My advice: before doing anything, calculate the total cost of supporting your brothers for the year (including the value of housing your mom provides) and see if your contributions truly exceed 50%. If not, you don't qualify regardless of whether your mom files. If yes, get Form 8332 signed by your mom and keep meticulous records of every expense your money covers. Given the audit risk mentioned by others, this might be a situation where paying a tax professional for guidance upfront is worth it to avoid potential penalties later.

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This is really helpful advice! I'm wondering though - when calculating that 50% support test, how do you put a dollar value on things like housing that mom provides? Like if she's living in a rental that costs $1200/month and the boys share a room, is that $600/month toward their support? And what about her time as caregiver - does that count as support she's providing? The IRS guidance I've seen online is pretty vague about how to calculate these indirect costs.

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Nathan Dell

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lmao good luck understanding that mess. I stared at mine for hours and gave up 🤮

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Maya Jackson

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taxr.ai my friend. Best dollar I ever spent no cap

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Look for these key codes on your transcript: 150 means they received your return, 570 is a hold (could be for review or missing info), and 846 is the golden one - that's your DDD! The date next to 846 is when your refund gets deposited. If you only see 570 with no 971 notice code, it might just be a routine review. Check back in a few days - transcripts usually update overnight between Tuesday-Friday.

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This is super helpful! I'm also waiting on my refund and was totally lost with all those codes. Quick question - if I see a 971 code, what does that usually mean? And do you know if there's a typical timeframe for how long routine reviews take?

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Leila Haddad

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Just wanted to add another perspective on the business structure aspect. Since your wife would be the owner of the B&B as a NZ citizen, you'll also need to consider whether this creates any issues with US gift tax rules if you're contributing funds to a business you don't legally own. Also, regarding the rental property in the US - even if you're breaking even cashflow-wise, don't forget that you'll be taking depreciation deductions which will reduce your basis. When you eventually sell, you'll have depreciation recapture to deal with, which is taxed as ordinary income up to 25%. This could create a significant tax bill down the road that many people don't anticipate. One more thing to research: NZ has something called the "bright-line test" for property investments, which could affect the tax treatment of your B&B if you sell within a certain timeframe. Since you're planning to reinvest profits initially, this might not be immediate concern, but it's worth understanding for long-term planning. The international tax situation is definitely complex, but with proper planning and the right resources, it's totally manageable. Good luck with the move!

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This is exactly the kind of detailed analysis I was hoping to find! The gift tax implications of contributing to a business I don't own is something I hadn't even considered. Would structuring it as a loan to my wife potentially avoid those issues, or would that create other complications? Also, the depreciation recapture point is really important - I was only thinking about the annual cash flow but you're right that the tax implications when we eventually sell could be substantial. Do you know if there are any strategies to minimize that impact, like 1031 exchanges for rental properties owned by expats? Thanks for mentioning the NZ bright-line test too. It sounds like there are tax implications on both sides that could really add up if we're not careful with the planning.

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Jamal Brown

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Great questions! For the gift tax issue, structuring contributions as a loan could help, but you'd need to document it properly with formal loan agreements, market interest rates, and actual repayment terms. The IRS scrutinizes loans between spouses, especially when one spouse owns a business the other is funding. Regarding 1031 exchanges for expats - this gets tricky. You can still do like-kind exchanges, but the timing requirements (45-day identification, 180-day completion) become much harder to manage from abroad. Plus, if you're a NZ tax resident, NZ might not recognize the tax deferral and could tax the gain immediately, defeating part of the purpose. For depreciation recapture, one strategy is installment sales if you owner-finance the buyer, which spreads the recapture over multiple years. Another option is converting to your primary residence before sale (though you'd need to meet the 2-out-of-5-years test while abroad, which has its own complications). The NZ bright-line test is currently 10 years for most investment properties, so definitely factor that into your long-term planning. Between US depreciation recapture and potential NZ bright-line tax, the timing of any property sales becomes really important.

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Honorah King

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One more consideration for your move to NZ - make sure you understand the timing of when you become a New Zealand tax resident. NZ uses a combination of factors including days present, permanent place of abode, and center of vital interests. This matters because it determines when you start being subject to NZ tax on your worldwide income. If you're keeping your US house initially and spending time setting up in NZ, you might have a period where both countries could claim you as a tax resident. The US-NZ tax treaty has tie-breaker rules, but it's something to plan for carefully. Also, since you mentioned potentially applying for NZ citizenship eventually, be aware that this could complicate your US tax situation if you ever want to renounce US citizenship down the road. The IRS has an "exit tax" (covered expatriate rules) that can be quite punitive for high-net-worth individuals, and they look at your net worth and tax compliance history over the 5 years before expatriation. Not saying you'd want to renounce, but it's good to understand all the long-term implications as you make these decisions. The expat tax world has lots of moving pieces that interact in unexpected ways!

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