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Ethan Davis

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bruh moment fr. but srsly tho file that 1040-X quick before they come knockin

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Don't panic! I went through the exact same thing last year. Filed my amended return about 3 months after the original deadline and only had to pay a small penalty plus interest (around $150 total on $8k unreported unemployment). The key is getting that 1040-X filed before they send you a notice. Once you file the amendment, you're showing good faith effort to correct the mistake. Way better than waiting for them to catch it first!

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Has anyone tried using the IRS's online transcript system? I know the OP needs to submit a 4506-T specifically, but for many cases you can just create an account at irs.gov and access your transcripts directly without having to request them through form 4506-T. Might be worth checking if this works for your situation.

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Dylan Baskin

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The online system is great but it doesn't work for everyone. You need to have certain accounts for their identity verification (credit card, mortgage, etc). Also doesn't work if you need the transcript sent to a third party like for mortgage applications, which is what the 4506-T is often used for.

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Good point. I should've mentioned those limitations. The online system is really convenient if you qualify, but the 4506-T is necessary in many situations, especially when a third party like a lender or employer needs direct verification of your tax information from the IRS. I've also heard some people have trouble with the identity verification if they've had credit freezes or lack credit history. The phone verification option works for some, but not all.

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I went through this exact same frustration a few months ago! After trying several options mentioned here, I ended up using FaxZero (the free online service) and it worked perfectly. Just make sure you have a clear scan or photo of your completed 4506-T form. One tip that saved me time - before you send it, double-check that you're using the correct IRS fax number for your specific situation. Different types of transcript requests go to different fax numbers, and I initially sent mine to the wrong department which delayed everything by two weeks. Also, keep a screenshot of the confirmation page showing your fax was successfully sent. I needed that when I called to check on my request status later. The whole "fax in 2024" thing is ridiculous, but at least the online fax services make it bearable!

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Thanks for the FaxZero tip! I'm definitely going to try that first since it's free. Do you remember roughly how long the confirmation took to come through? And did you have any issues with the image quality when you uploaded your form? I'm worried about my phone camera not being clear enough for the IRS to read properly. Also, that's a great point about the different fax numbers - I hadn't even thought about that. Where did you find the correct number for your specific situation?

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As a newcomer to this community, I wanted to jump in and say how helpful this entire thread has been! I'm actually facing a very similar situation with my small construction business - have a 2019 F-250 that I've been depreciating and now looking at trading it in for a newer model. Reading through everyone's experiences, I'm realizing there are so many nuances I hadn't considered. The points about timing the trade based on your overall income situation, the importance of professional appraisals versus dealer trade-in values, and the distinction between repairs that should be expensed versus capitalized are all things I need to dig into more. One question I haven't seen addressed yet - for those who have gone through this process, how far in advance did you start planning the trade-in from a tax perspective? It sounds like there's quite a bit of analysis that needs to happen before making the actual transaction, especially if you're trying to optimize the timing for tax benefits. Also, has anyone dealt with situations where you're trading across different vehicle classes (like going from a pickup to a larger commercial truck)? I'm wondering if that creates any additional complications for the depreciation recapture calculations. Thanks to everyone who has shared their real-world experiences - it's incredibly valuable to hear from people who have actually navigated this process successfully!

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Andre Dubois

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Welcome to the community! Your questions are spot on and show you're thinking strategically about this decision. Regarding planning timeframe, I'd recommend starting at least 2-3 months before you want to make the actual trade. This gives you time to gather all your depreciation records, get appraisals if needed, run the tax calculations, and potentially consult with a tax professional. I learned this the hard way when I tried to rush through a trade in December and ended up making some suboptimal tax decisions. For your question about trading across vehicle classes, that generally doesn't create additional complications for the depreciation recapture calculation itself - it's still based on your adjusted basis versus the trade-in/fair market value of your old vehicle. However, it might affect your depreciation strategy for the new vehicle. A larger commercial truck might have different Section 179 limits or bonus depreciation rules, so definitely verify the GVWR and tax classification of whatever you're considering. One thing I'd add based on the thread - document everything extensively. Keep records of your current vehicle's business use percentage, maintenance history, and any major repairs or improvements. If you get an appraisal, make sure it's from a qualified appraiser who can provide documentation that would hold up under IRS scrutiny. The complexity seems overwhelming at first, but taking the time to get it right can save thousands in taxes. This community has been a great resource for navigating these business vehicle decisions!

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Ravi Patel

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As someone new to this community, I'm finding this discussion incredibly informative! I run a small electrical contracting business and have been putting off dealing with my aging work van situation because the tax implications seemed so daunting. Reading through everyone's experiences, I'm starting to understand that proper planning and documentation are absolutely crucial. The point about getting professional appraisals versus just accepting dealer trade-in values is something I never would have thought of, but it makes total sense from a tax optimization standpoint. One thing I'm curious about that I haven't seen mentioned yet - are there any specific IRS publications or forms that walk through business vehicle trade-in scenarios step by step? I'm the type of person who likes to understand the official guidance before making major financial decisions, especially when there's potential for depreciation recapture. Also, for those who have used the automated mileage tracking apps mentioned in the thread, do you have any recommendations for apps that work well with older smartphones? My business phone is a few years old and I want to make sure whatever I choose will run reliably for tracking those critical business miles. Thanks to everyone who has shared their real-world experiences - this is exactly the kind of practical advice that makes navigating business ownership so much easier!

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Paolo Longo

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Welcome to the community! Great questions - you're absolutely right that understanding the official guidance is crucial for making informed decisions. For IRS publications, I'd recommend starting with Publication 946 (How To Depreciate Property) and Publication 463 (Travel, Gift, and Car Expenses). Form 4797 (Sales of Business Property) is what you'll actually use to report the disposition of your current van, and the instructions for that form have some helpful examples of depreciation recapture calculations. The IRS also has a small business tax guide that covers vehicle deductions pretty comprehensively. I found their examples really helpful for understanding how the adjusted basis calculations work in practice. Regarding mileage tracking apps for older phones, MileIQ has been pretty reliable on older Android devices in my experience. Everlance is another option that doesn't seem to be as resource-intensive. The key is finding one that can run in the background without draining your battery or crashing. I'd suggest testing whichever app you choose for a few weeks before you really need the data to make sure it's capturing trips reliably. One tip - even with automated tracking, I keep a simple backup log in my truck's glove compartment just in case the app fails. Better to have redundant records than explain to the IRS why you have gaps in your mileage documentation! This community really is a goldmine for practical business advice. Good luck with your van situation!

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Amy Fleming

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Make sure you take pictures of your physical inventory at year-end! I learned this the hard way when I got audited for my eCommerce business. Having dated photos of your inventory count really helps if the IRS ever questions your COGS calculations. I now do inventory counts twice a year with photos, detailed spreadsheets, and even a short video walkthrough of my storage area.

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Great advice in this thread! As someone who just went through my first year of proper COGS reporting for my online candle business, I want to add that you should also consider how you handle partially finished products. If you have jewelry pieces that are started but not completed at year-end, you need to decide whether to include the materials cost in your ending inventory or treat them as work-in-progress. For my candles, I had about $400 worth of wax that was melted and scented but not yet poured into containers. I included this in my ending inventory at the cost of materials used so far. Just something to think about since handmade businesses often have items in various stages of completion at year-end. Also seconding the advice about keeping detailed records - my spreadsheet tracks not just dollar amounts but quantities of each type of bead, finding, etc. It's more work upfront but makes the year-end count so much easier and more accurate.

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Mateo Silva

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2 Just to clarify something - are you using a tax-advantaged account like an IRA or is this in a regular taxable brokerage account? If it's in an IRA or 401k, none of this capital gains stuff applies since those accounts are tax-deferred or tax-free.

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Mateo Silva

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10 Pretty sure they're talking about a taxable account since they're worried about capital gains tax. You don't pay capital gains taxes on trades within retirement accounts.

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Logan Scott

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This is a tough situation, but the advice you've gotten is correct - each transaction is treated separately for tax purposes. Your original $98k gain is already a taxable event that's locked in. One thing to consider is your overall tax strategy for the year. If you sell now and take the $51k loss, your net taxable gain would be $47k ($98k gain minus $51k loss). But you might want to look at whether you have any other investments with unrealized losses that you could harvest to further offset that gain. Also worth noting - if this stock continues to decline and you think it might recover eventually, you could consider selling now to capture the tax loss, then wait 31 days before buying back to avoid the wash sale rule. That way you get the tax benefit while still being able to re-enter the position if you believe in the long-term prospects. The timing of when you sell matters too since we're getting close to year-end. Make sure any sale settles before December 31st if you want the loss to count for this tax year.

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Zadie Patel

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This is really helpful advice, especially the point about tax-loss harvesting other positions. I hadn't thought about looking at my entire portfolio to see what other losses I could capture to offset more of that $98k gain. The 31-day wait period strategy is interesting too - basically take the tax loss now but still be able to get back in if I believe the stock will recover. That seems like it could be the best of both worlds, assuming I'm willing to risk missing out on any potential recovery during that month. Question about the settlement timing - if I place a sell order on December 30th, does that count for this tax year even if it settles in January? Or does it have to actually settle by December 31st?

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