


Ask the community...
I've been through this process multiple times for different overseas positions, and I can share some practical insights that might help clear up the confusion! For Line 7, the key is understanding what your employer actually needs the certificate for. Most international employers requesting tax residency certification want to verify your US tax resident status for treaty benefits or withholding purposes. In your case, starting in March 2025, you'll likely want certification for 2024 (the most recently completed tax year when you start) or 2025 (the year you'll actually be working). Since the fee is the same regardless of how many years you request, I'd strongly recommend requesting both 2024 and 2025 on the same form. This gives you maximum flexibility and ensures you have the right documentation regardless of what your employer specifically needs. One important thing to note: the IRS can certify future years (like 2025) based on your previous filing history, so don't worry about not having filed 2025 taxes yet. They'll use your 2023 and 2024 returns to verify your ongoing US tax resident status. Given the 6-8 week processing time and your March start date, I'd submit your Form 8802 ASAP. Consider faxing it instead of mailing for potentially faster processing, and make sure every field is completed accurately since errors cause significant delays.
This is exactly the kind of comprehensive advice I wish I had when I was fumbling through this process! @Dallas Villalobos really covered all the key points that would have saved me hours of confusion. I want to emphasize the faxing suggestion - when I mailed my Form 8802 last year, it took the full 8 weeks, but I ve'heard from others that faxing can shave off 1-2 weeks from processing time. Given that you re'cutting it close with your March start date, every week matters. Also, definitely double-check that you re'using the most current version of Form 8802 from the IRS website. I made the mistake of using an outdated version I had saved on my computer and had to resubmit, which cost me weeks of processing time. The form gets updated periodically and the IRS is strict about accepting only current versions. One last tip: if your employer has an international HR team or tax department, they might have specific guidance on which tax years they typically need for their country s'requirements. Some countries have very specific preferences based on their own tax year cycles or treaty interpretations.
Based on everyone's helpful advice here, I'd recommend taking a two-pronged approach to get this resolved quickly and correctly. First, definitely request both 2024 and 2025 on Line 7 of your Form 8802 since the fee is the same for multiple years. This covers you regardless of what your employer specifically needs, and given the March start date, you want maximum flexibility. Second, while you're waiting for the IRS processing (which could take 6-8 weeks), reach out to your employer's HR or international tax team to ask specifically which tax year they need and if they have any other documentation requirements. Sometimes they just need proof of US tax residency status and don't care about the specific year. For submitting the form, definitely fax it rather than mail it - several people mentioned this can save 1-2 weeks of processing time. Make sure you're using the current version from the IRS website and that every field is completed accurately since errors cause major delays. The good news is that requesting 2025 certification isn't a problem even though you haven't filed those taxes yet - the IRS will use your 2023 and 2024 filing history to verify your US tax resident status. Just make sure to include any required attachments like tax transcripts if you've had amended returns or special circumstances. Given your tight timeline, I'd get this submitted ASAP and consider the expedited processing option if your employer can provide documentation of the firm deadline. Good luck! š¤
This is such a comprehensive summary - thank you @Carmen Ruiz! I really appreciate how everyone has broken this down step by step. One quick question for the group: when faxing Form 8802, do you need to include a cover sheet with specific information, or can you just fax the form directly? I want to make sure I don't miss any procedural requirements that could slow down processing. Also, has anyone had experience with the IRS calling for clarification during the review process? I'm wondering if I should make sure my contact information is extra clear in case they need to reach me about anything. The advice about requesting both years makes total sense - I'd rather have more documentation than I need rather than risk having to reapply later. Thanks everyone for turning what seemed like an impossible puzzle into a clear action plan!
Has anyone mentioned the income phaseouts for child tax credits? This was a HUGE factor for us last year. If either of you is close to or over $200,000 in income (for single filers), the child tax credit starts phasing out. In our case, my partner makes about $210k and I make $155k. We found it was WAY better for me to claim both kids because I could get the full child tax credit while she was getting a reduced amount due to her income. Before you decide, calculate your modified adjusted gross income and check where you fall on the phaseout range. Could make a difference of thousands depending on your exact income levels.
This is key - a lot of tax software doesn't make this obvious unless you try different scenarios. Remember the phaseout for Child Tax Credit starts at $200k for single/HOH filers and the Child and Dependent Care Credit has different phaseout thresholds too. Definitely worth running the numbers both ways.
Another important consideration that hasn't been mentioned yet is the Earned Income Tax Credit (EITC) if either of you qualifies. With two children, the EITC can be worth up to $6,728 for 2023, but it phases out at different income levels depending on filing status. For Head of Household filers with two children, the EITC phases out completely around $56,838 in earned income, while for single filers it's around $50,594. Given that you both earn in the six-figure range, you likely won't qualify, but it's worth double-checking since this credit can be substantial. Also, don't forget about the dependent care FSA (Flexible Spending Account) if either of your employers offers it. You can set aside up to $5,000 pre-tax for childcare expenses, which effectively reduces your taxable income. This works independently of who claims the children as dependents, so whoever has access to a dependent care FSA should definitely use it. Just remember you can't double-dip - if you use FSA funds for daycare, you can't also claim those same expenses for the Child and Dependent Care Credit. The FSA savings alone could be worth $1,000-2,000 depending on your tax bracket, so make sure to factor that into your planning for next year!
Great point about the FSA! I had no idea you couldn't double-dip on the childcare expenses. This is exactly the kind of detail I would have missed. Since we're both in six-figure ranges, we definitely won't qualify for EITC, but the FSA tip is really valuable. My employer offers dependent care FSA but I never signed up because I thought it was complicated. Sounds like it's worth looking into for next year's enrollment period. Do you know if there are any restrictions on what types of childcare expenses qualify for the FSA?
To answer your original question more specifically, here's a comprehensive list of common paycheck deduction acronyms: - FIT/FWT/Fed WH = Federal Income Tax - SIT/SWT/State WH = State Income Tax - SS/OASDI = Social Security - Med = Medicare - SDI = State Disability Insurance - SUI = State Unemployment Insurance - 401K = Retirement Contribution - HSA = Health Savings Account - FSA = Flexible Spending Account - LTD = Long-Term Disability - STD = Short-Term Disability Your payroll department should also be able to provide you with a complete explanation of all deductions specific to your company.
Thanks so much for this list! I'm seeing most of these on my stub. Quick follow up - is there any way to figure out if the amounts being taken out are correct? I'm especially confused about the Fed WH amount since it seems to change a lot between checks.
Federal withholding amounts can vary between paychecks if your income fluctuates. This happens because tax withholding is calculated based on your projected annual income from each check. If you earn more in one pay period (maybe from overtime or a bonus), the system will withhold at a higher rate assuming you'll make that amount all year. You can verify if your withholding is accurate by using the IRS Tax Withholding Estimator on the IRS website. It helps calculate approximately how much should be withheld based on your specific situation. If the withholding seems off, you might need to submit a new W-4 form to your employer to adjust your withholding.
is it normal for the state tax to be so much higher than federal?? on my check the state one is $40 but federal is only $25 which seems backwards. i live in california if that matters.
That's actually not normal - federal tax rates are generally higher than state rates. In California, state income tax can be high but still shouldn't exceed federal in most cases. You might want to check if your W-4 withholding information is correct. Sometimes if you filled out the state and federal forms differently, it can cause this kind of imbalance.
This is a really helpful thread! I'm in a similar boat with ISOs from my startup and was getting overwhelmed by all the AMT implications. One thing I wanted to add - make sure you check with your company's stock plan administrator about any specific requirements they have for disqualifying dispositions. My company required me to notify them within 30 days of the sale so they could properly report the compensation income on my W-2. Some companies handle this automatically through their brokerage, but others need manual notification. Also, if your company stock is still private/pre-IPO, the calculation of FMV at exercise might need additional documentation for the IRS. The tax implications everyone's discussed are spot on, but don't forget about the administrative side with your employer. Better to get ahead of it now than scramble at tax time!
This is such an important point that I wish I had known earlier! I went through a disqualifying disposition last year and completely forgot to notify my company's stock plan administrator. Come tax time, my W-2 didn't include the bargain element as compensation income, which created a huge mess with my tax filing. I had to go back to my company in March (well past the deadline) and get an amended W-2 issued. The whole process delayed my tax filing by almost two months and I had to file an extension. The IRS still expects you to report that income correctly even if your employer messes up the W-2, so you end up having to reconcile everything manually. For anyone reading this - definitely check your company's process BEFORE you sell. Some companies are really on top of this and have automated systems, but others (especially smaller startups) might not even realize they need to track and report these dispositions. Better to ask the awkward questions upfront than deal with the paperwork nightmare later!
I went through a similar situation with my ISOs last year and can share some additional considerations beyond the great advice already given here. One thing that really caught me off guard was the state tax implications - even though the federal treatment becomes straightforward with a disqualifying disposition, some states have different rules. Also, if you're planning to do the same-day sale and rebuy strategy, make sure you have enough cash flow to handle the immediate tax hit. With a disqualifying disposition, you'll owe ordinary income tax on that $16,250 bargain element (1,250 shares Ć $13 spread) in the year of sale, which could be a significant amount depending on your tax bracket. One more practical tip - if your company uses a third-party administrator like Carta or Shareworks for stock plans, they often have calculators that can model different sale scenarios including the tax implications. Might be worth checking if your company has something like that available before you make your final decision. The wash sale rule clarification from earlier comments is spot on - since you're selling at a gain, you're in the clear there. But definitely coordinate with your company on the reporting requirements as others mentioned!
Ethan Wilson
I feel your pain - went through this exact same thing last year! My verification letter took 21 days to arrive, so you're definitely still within the normal range even though it's frustrating. A couple things that might help while you wait: - Try calling early in the morning (8-9 AM) when call volumes are lower - sometimes you can get better info about whether your letter was actually mailed - Make sure your mailbox is secure and check with neighbors in case it got misdelivered - If you're in a rush, definitely try that in-person appointment suggestion someone mentioned above - I wish I had known about that option! The waiting is absolutely the worst part, but once you get that letter the actual verification process is pretty quick. You should have your refund within 1-2 weeks after completing it. Keep checking your mail - it'll come!
0 coins
NeonNova
ā¢Thanks for sharing your experience! Yeah the waiting is definitely the hardest part. I've been checking my mailbox like 3 times a day at this point š Good tip about calling early - I usually call in the afternoon when I'm on my lunch break but maybe morning would be better. Really hoping it shows up in the next few days!
0 coins
Christopher Morgan
I'm currently going through this same exact situation! Filed my return 3 weeks ago, tried the online ID verification multiple times but it kept failing, so I called and they told me to wait for the verification letter. It's been 12 days now and still nothing in my mailbox. What's really frustrating is that every time I call, I get a different agent who gives me slightly different information. One said 14-16 days, another said "up to 21 business days," and the last one couldn't even confirm if the letter had been generated yet. The inconsistency is maddening when you're just trying to get your own money back! I'm definitely going to try that in-person appointment suggestion - had no idea that was even an option. Also going to set up that USPS informed delivery thing to at least know what's coming. Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences, it's weirdly comforting to know I'm not alone in this bureaucratic nightmare!
0 coins
Lydia Santiago
ā¢I totally feel your frustration! Just went through this myself a few months ago and the inconsistent information from different agents was the most maddening part. Every person you talk to seems to have a different timeline or can't tell you anything concrete about where your letter actually is in the process. The in-person appointment route is definitely worth trying - I ended up doing that after waiting 3 weeks for a letter that never came. Had to wait about 10 days for the appointment but got everything resolved in one visit. Way less stressful than constantly checking the mailbox and wondering if it got lost. The USPS informed delivery is a game changer too - at least you'll know for sure if something is coming instead of just hoping. Hang in there, you'll get through this! The whole system is just painfully slow but you're definitely not alone in dealing with this mess.
0 coins