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I shorted Apple last year and paid out dividends. The way I handled it (confirmed by my CPA) was: 1. Report the full dividend amount from my 1099-DIV on Schedule B 2. The dividend I paid on my short sale gets added to the cost basis of the short position 3. When I closed my short position, the adjusted basis meant I had a smaller gain So you're not really "deducting" it directly from your dividend income. You're adjusting the cost basis of the short sale transaction, which affects your capital gain/loss instead.
So to be clear, if I'm understanding right: - You report the full $125 dividend income - You add the $27 to the cost basis of your short position - When you close the position, your gain is $27 less than it would have been otherwise So the tax benefit comes when you close the position, not when you report dividends?
Exactly right! You've got it. The tax benefit happens when you close the short position, not when you report the dividends. So in your example: - Report full $125 on Schedule B - Your short position cost basis increases by $27 - When you close the short, your capital gain is reduced by $27 (or loss increased by $27) This way you're still getting the tax benefit of that $27, just through the capital gains/loss calculation instead of directly reducing dividend income. The IRS wants to see the transactions reported separately since they're technically different types of income/expenses.
This is a great question that catches a lot of people off guard! I went through the same confusion when I first started shorting stocks. The key thing to understand is that you cannot simply net the $27 against your $125 in dividend income on your tax return. Here's what you need to do: 1. **Report the full $125 on Schedule B** - This matches what your broker reported to the IRS on your 1099-DIV 2. **Add the $27 to your short position's cost basis** - The dividend payments you made while shorting increase the cost basis of that short sale 3. **The tax benefit comes when you close the short position** - Your capital gain will be $27 less (or capital loss $27 more) when you eventually close the position Think of it this way: the IRS wants to see dividend income and capital gains/losses reported in their proper categories. You're not losing the tax benefit of that $27 - you're just getting it through the capital gains calculation instead of directly reducing dividend income. Make sure to keep good records of these payments so you can properly adjust your cost basis when you close the short positions!
Thank you so much for this clear explanation! As someone new to short selling, this helps me understand the bigger picture. I have a follow-up question though - what happens if I'm still holding the short position at year end? Do I still need to adjust the cost basis even if I haven't closed the position yet, or does that adjustment only matter when I actually close it out? Also, should I be keeping track of these dividend payments separately from what my broker reports, or will they typically include this information in my year-end statements?
This is such a helpful thread! I'm dealing with a similar situation with my first rental property purchase. One thing I learned from my research is that even though MACRS assumes zero salvage value for the depreciation calculation, you should still keep good records of any major improvements you make to the property over the years. The reason is that improvements have their own depreciation schedules - so if you put on a new roof, install new HVAC, or do major renovations, those get depreciated separately from the original building. This can actually increase your total annual depreciation deduction. Also, I found IRS Publication 946 (How to Depreciate Property) really helpful for understanding all the nuances. It's dense reading but covers scenarios like partial business use, mixed-use properties, and how to handle improvements vs. repairs. Definitely worth checking out if you want to understand the full picture beyond just the basic residential rental depreciation.
This is exactly the kind of detailed info I was looking for! I had no idea about the separate depreciation schedules for improvements. Does this mean if I replace the flooring in my rental, I should track that separately from the building depreciation? And how do you determine what counts as an "improvement" versus just regular maintenance and repairs?
Great question! Yes, you should definitely track flooring replacement separately. The key distinction is that improvements add value, extend the useful life, or adapt the property for a new use, while repairs just maintain the current condition. Replacing flooring would typically be considered an improvement and gets its own depreciation schedule (usually 5-7 years depending on the type). Regular maintenance like fixing a leaky faucet or touching up paint would be a current-year deductible repair. Some examples: New flooring = improvement (depreciate over 5-7 years). Fixing a broken tile = repair (deduct immediately). New HVAC system = improvement (depreciate). Replacing a broken HVAC part = repair. The IRS has gotten stricter about this in recent years, so good documentation is crucial. I keep a separate spreadsheet tracking all improvements with receipts, dates, and depreciation schedules. It's saved me during an audit because I could show exactly how I categorized everything.
Great discussion everyone! As someone who just went through this process with my first rental property, I want to add a few practical tips that might help others avoid the mistakes I made initially. First, when separating land and building values, don't just rely on the property tax assessment - it can sometimes be way off. I found it helpful to get a professional appraisal that specifically breaks down land vs. building value, especially since this affects your depreciation for the entire 27.5-year period. Second, keep meticulous records from day one. I created a simple folder system: one for the original purchase documents, one for improvements, and one for repairs/maintenance. This makes tax prep so much easier and you'll be prepared if you ever get audited. Finally, don't forget about the "mid-month convention" for real estate depreciation - you only get half a month's depreciation in the month you place the property in service, regardless of when in the month you actually start renting it out. This caught me off guard in my first year. The zero salvage value rule for MACRS really does simplify things compared to other types of assets. Just focus on getting that land/building split right and you'll be in good shape!
This is incredibly helpful advice, especially about the mid-month convention - I had no idea about that rule! I'm just starting to look into purchasing my first rental property and this thread has been a goldmine of information. Quick question: when you mention getting a professional appraisal for the land/building split, roughly how much does that typically cost? I'm trying to budget for all the upfront expenses and want to make sure I'm not missing anything important. Also, do you recommend getting this appraisal done before closing or can it be done after you've already purchased the property?
I went through this exact nightmare last year and can offer some real-world perspective! My business account got frozen right when my refund was due, and I was absolutely panicking. Here's what actually happened: The IRS attempted the direct deposit on a Tuesday, my bank rejected it that same day, and I got a paper check exactly 18 days later. No drama, no lost money, just an automatic conversion to paper check. BUT - and this is important - I called my bank first and they told me something crucial. They said government deposits (IRS, Social Security, etc.) are often handled differently than regular ACH transfers. In my case, even though my account was "frozen," they said they would have accepted the IRS deposit and just held it until the freeze was lifted. I wished I'd known this earlier! My advice: Call your bank RIGHT NOW and ask specifically: "If the IRS sends my tax refund via ACH direct deposit to this account while it's on hold, what exactly will happen? Will you accept it and hold it, or will you reject it back to the IRS?" Get the person's name and a reference number for the call. Also, double-check that your mailing address is current with the IRS just in case that paper check route becomes necessary. You've got this - your money isn't going anywhere, it's just taking the scenic route! πͺ
This is exactly the kind of real-world experience I needed to hear! 18 days isn't too bad when you know what to expect. I'm definitely calling my bank first thing tomorrow morning with those exact questions you suggested. It makes sense that government deposits might have special handling - I never would have thought to ask about that distinction. Thanks for sharing the timeline and for the reassurance that the money doesn't just disappear into the void! Sometimes you need to hear from someone who's actually been through it to calm the panic. π
I completely understand your panic - this exact situation happened to me with my 2022 return! Here's what I learned from going through it: First, breathe! Your refund won't disappear. The IRS has automated systems specifically designed to handle rejected direct deposits, and they deal with thousands of these cases every week. Here's my step-by-step recommendation based on what worked for me: 1. **Call your bank immediately** - Ask specifically about their policy for government ACH deposits to restricted accounts. Use these exact words: "If the IRS attempts to deposit my tax refund to this account while it's on administrative hold, will you accept and hold the funds, or reject the transaction?" Many banks have special protocols for government payments. 2. **Document everything** - Get the bank representative's name, the date/time of your call, and ask them to email you their policy in writing if possible. 3. **Contact the IRS Practitioner Priority Service** at 1-866-860-4259 if you can't get through the regular lines. Since you filed an amendment, there might still be time to flag your account before the direct deposit is attempted. 4. **Verify your mailing address** - If it does get converted to a paper check, make sure the IRS has your correct address. You can do this online through your IRS account or by filing Form 8822. In my case, the bank actually accepted the deposit and held it until my account issues were resolved about 10 days later. But even if they reject it, the typical timeline is 2-3 weeks for the paper check to arrive. You've got this! The system is designed to protect your money, not lose it. πͺ
This is such a thorough and calming response! I'm saving your step-by-step guide because it's exactly what I needed. The part about asking the bank using those specific words is brilliant - I would have just asked vague questions and probably gotten vague answers. I'm also glad you mentioned the Practitioner Priority Service number since I've been stuck in the regular phone tree hell for days. It's so reassuring to hear that your bank actually accepted and held the deposit - gives me hope that mine might do the same! Thanks for taking the time to share such detailed advice from your actual experience. π
Does anyone know if contributing to a SEP IRA instead would be a better option in this situation? My business income varies a lot year to year.
SEP IRAs are great for variable income! You can contribute up to 25% of your net self-employment income (with annual limits of course), and the contributions are tax-deductible. This could actually lower your MAGI and potentially help you qualify for a Roth too. I've been doing this for my consulting business for years.
This is exactly the kind of situation where getting the calculation right is crucial! Based on what others have shared here, it sounds like your LLC income will likely count toward your MAGI regardless of distributions, but the specific tax treatment depends on your LLC structure. I'd strongly recommend getting a definitive answer before making any contributions to avoid penalties. The backdoor Roth strategy mentioned by Wesley could be a great backup plan if your total income does push you over the limit. One thing to consider - if your LLC income is significant enough to potentially disqualify you from direct Roth contributions, you might also want to explore whether maxing out a SEP-IRA could help reduce your MAGI enough to get back under the Roth income limits. Sometimes the deduction from business retirement contributions can create enough breathing room to qualify for both strategies. Make sure to document everything carefully whichever route you take. The IRS is pretty strict about retirement contribution limits, so having your calculations and reasoning well-documented will save you headaches later.
This is such a comprehensive breakdown - thank you! I'm actually in a similar boat with my side business and had no idea about the SEP-IRA strategy potentially helping me stay under the Roth limits. That's brilliant thinking about using the business retirement contribution deduction to lower MAGI enough to qualify for both. Quick question though - if I go the SEP-IRA route to reduce my MAGI, are there any gotchas I should watch out for? Like minimum distribution requirements or anything that might bite me later? I'm still relatively young so I want to make sure I'm not creating future problems while solving my current Roth eligibility issue. Also, completely agree about the documentation piece. I learned that lesson the hard way on a different tax issue last year!
McKenzie Shade
keep calling them every week thats what i did untill they fixed mine
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Harmony Love
β’waste of time tbh they just read the same info u can see online
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Mateusius Townsend
Code 291 basically means they adjusted your refund amount down from what you originally claimed on your amended return. It's super common with amended returns - they just found something they disagreed with in your calculations. The good news is that once you see 291, you're usually pretty close to getting your refund processed. I'd expect maybe 2-4 weeks before you see the money hit your account, but amended returns can be unpredictable timing-wise. Just keep checking your transcript for updates!
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Joshua Wood
β’Thanks for the detailed explanation! That actually makes me feel better about the timeline. I was worried it meant something was seriously wrong with my return. Guess I'll just keep stalking my transcript like everyone else here π
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