I tracked exactly 37 cases of post-verification delays this season in my tax office. The average wait time between 0605 code and refund was 13.4 days. The longest was 26 days, shortest was 8. Returns with dependent credits (like yours) averaged 16.2 days. Based on this data, you're still within normal parameters, frustrating as it is. If you reach day 21 post-verification with no movement, that's when I'd recommend calling.

I'm dealing with this exact same situation right now! Filed 19 days ago, completed ID verification 8 days ago, and my transcript still shows the 0605 code with absolutely nothing else. It's so frustrating not knowing if everything is processing normally or if something is stuck. Reading through all these responses is actually really helpful though - it sounds like this post-verification waiting period is more common than I realized. I had no idea about checking for the 571 reversal code or that Wednesday early morning updates were a thing. Going to try checking my transcript around 2am Wednesday like Kristin suggested. Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences - makes me feel less alone in this waiting game!

Great question about the HSA last-month rule and job transitions! I went through something similar a few years ago and learned a lot about maintaining eligibility during the testing period. One thing I'd add to the excellent advice already given is to consider the network differences between your current plan and potential new coverage. If you have any ongoing medical needs or preferred providers, COBRA might be worth the extra cost to maintain your existing network relationships through the end of the year. Also, when comparing marketplace HDHPs, pay close attention to the HSA contribution limits if the plan comes with an HSA from a different provider. Some HSA administrators have higher fees or limited investment options compared to others. Since you're only looking at a few months of coverage, the fees might not matter much, but it's worth checking. The timing advice others have shared is spot-on - you have until October 31st to remain HSA-eligible after your coverage ends on the 10th, and you'll want new HDHP coverage starting November 1st. This gives you a comfortable window to shop and compare options without rushing into a decision.

I've been following this thread and wanted to add another perspective on maintaining HSA eligibility during job transitions. One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is the importance of documenting everything for your records. When I went through a similar situation, I made sure to get written confirmation from both my old employer about my coverage end date and from my new insurance provider about the HDHP qualification and start date. The IRS can be pretty particular about documentation if they ever audit your HSA contributions, especially when you're using the last-month rule. I'd also suggest calculating exactly how much you can still contribute to your HSA for 2024 once you know your new coverage start date. If there's any gap in eligibility (even if you maintain HDHP coverage), it might affect your contribution limits for the year. The pro-rated contribution rules can be tricky when you have mid-year changes in coverage. Since you're already planning ahead, you might also want to consider whether the new employer's HDHP (if they have one) would be better for 2025 planning. Sometimes it's worth enduring a slightly more expensive marketplace plan for a couple months if it sets you up better for next year's HSA strategy.

This is exactly the kind of complex property situation that can trip people up on their taxes. From what you've described, here are the key points to understand: Since your grandfather quit claimed his share to your grandmother in 2004 and they held the property as joint tenants, your grandmother owned 100% when he passed in 2005. When she quit claimed 50% to you in 2006, you would typically receive a "carryover basis" - meaning your basis would be 50% of what your grandparents originally paid in 1990, plus any documented improvements they made. The tricky part is your uncle's share. If he received his 50% through inheritance when your grandmother died in 2023, he should get a "stepped-up basis" to the fair market value of that portion at the time of her death. However, if he received it through a quit claim deed before she died, he would also get a carryover basis. You'll want to gather all the documentation you can: the original 1990 purchase documents, all quit claim deeds with dates, death certificates, and any records of property improvements over the years. The exact timing and method of each transfer will determine the basis calculation. Given the complexity and potential tax implications, I'd strongly recommend consulting with a CPA who has experience with inherited and transferred property. They can review all your documents and ensure you're calculating everything correctly to avoid issues with the IRS.

I went through a very similar situation with my family's property a few years ago, and I can definitely relate to how confusing this gets with multiple transfers and deaths involved. One thing that really helped me was creating a timeline of every single transfer with exact dates. In your case: 1990 original purchase → 2004 grandfather's quitclaim to grandmother → 2005 grandfather's death → 2006 grandmother's quitclaim to you → 2023 grandmother's death and transfer to uncle → 2023 sale. Having this visual really clarified which transfers were subject to what rules. For your specific situation, your 50% should indeed be based on the original 1990 purchase price plus improvements (carryover basis), since you received it via quitclaim in 2006. The key question is whether your uncle's portion gets stepped-up basis or not - and that depends entirely on whether he received it through inheritance or through a quitclaim deed before your grandmother died. Don't overlook checking with your grandmother's estate attorney if there was one involved. They might have documentation about the transfer to your uncle that could clarify whether it was part of the estate settlement or a separate transaction. Also, if your grandparents had homeowner's insurance over the years, sometimes those records can help document when major improvements like roof replacements were done, even if you can't find the contractor receipts. The stepped-up basis question for when your grandfather died in 2005 is interesting but probably moot since the joint tenancy meant everything went to your grandmother automatically. But definitely worth having a tax professional confirm that.

I went through this exact same situation last year when I got a mid-year raise that pushed me into the phase-out range! The 590-A Worksheet 2-1 is definitely confusing at first, but once you break it down step by step, it becomes manageable. One thing that helped me was creating a simple spreadsheet to track my income throughout the year so I could project my final MAGI more accurately. Since your income changed mid-year, you'll want to calculate your total projected annual income (including the promotion bump) to determine where you fall in the phase-out range. Also, don't forget that your Modified AGI might be different from your regular AGI - you need to add back certain deductions like student loan interest, tuition deductions, or foreign earned income exclusion if any apply to you. The IRS instructions for Form 8606 have a good breakdown of what gets added back. If you're still feeling overwhelmed, consider reaching out to a tax professional or even calling the IRS directly for guidance on your specific situation. It's better to get it right now than deal with penalties later!

I've been through this exact same scenario and want to share what worked for me. When I got a promotion mid-year that pushed me into the phase-out range, I made the mistake of panicking and overthinking the whole process. Here's what I learned: First, gather all your pay stubs from the beginning of the year to calculate your actual income so far, then project the rest based on your new salary. Don't forget to include any bonuses, overtime, or other income sources in your projection. For the 590-A Worksheet 2-1 specifically, I found it helpful to work backwards from the result. Start with the maximum contribution amount ($7,000 if you're under 50), then use Mohammed's formula above to calculate your reduction. The worksheet essentially does this same calculation but in a more confusing format. One tip that saved me: if you're close to a phase-out threshold, consider increasing your 401(k) contributions or making additional HSA contributions if eligible. These reduce your AGI and might keep you in a more favorable contribution range. Also, don't stress too much about getting the exact number perfect right now - you can always adjust your remaining contributions throughout the year as your income projection becomes more certain. The important thing is avoiding over-contribution penalties!

their website is trash ngl. always giving errors or timeout messages

Also worth mentioning that if you e-filed, you generally need to wait at least 24 hours after the IRS accepts your return before the "Where's My Refund" tool will have any info. And if you filed by mail, it can take 3-4 weeks before it shows up in their system.