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This exact situation is why I only use licensed daycare centers now even though they're more expensive. They're legitimate businesses with tax IDs, proper contracts, and regular receipts. Worth every penny for the peace of mind during tax season and for knowing they meet safety standards. For your current situation, I'd try one more written request (certified mail) for her information, explicitly stating what you paid her for the year. If she still refuses, proceed with filing with the documentation you have and start looking for new care.
I went through something very similar with my nanny last year. She was paid $400/week for 10 months and when tax time came, she completely ghosted me about providing her SSN. I was panicking about losing out on a significant tax credit. Here's what I learned from my tax attorney: You absolutely can still claim the Child and Dependent Care Credit even without the provider's SSN. The key is documenting that you made a reasonable effort to obtain it. Send her a formal written request via certified mail asking for her tax information using IRS Form W-10. Keep the receipt and any responses (or lack thereof). On Form 2441, there's a checkbox specifically for situations where you requested but couldn't obtain the provider's taxpayer identification number. Check that box and attach a brief explanation of your attempts to get the information. Your Venmo records are excellent documentation. For the cash payments, create a simple log showing dates and amounts that align with your agreed-upon weekly rate. The IRS understands that some childcare payments are made in cash. One thing to consider: if she's being paid $385/week by you and likely similar amounts by other families, she could owe substantial back taxes. The IRS has ways of cross-referencing childcare providers when multiple families claim the same person. You're not responsible for her tax compliance - focus on claiming what you're legally entitled to. I'd also start quietly looking for backup childcare options now, just in case this relationship becomes untenable after tax season.
This is really helpful advice, thank you! I'm curious about the tax attorney consultation - was that expensive? I'm trying to figure out if it's worth the cost versus just proceeding with what I've learned here. Also, when you say the IRS has ways of cross-referencing providers, does that mean they automatically investigate everyone who gets claimed by multiple families? I don't want to cause problems for her unnecessarily, but I also can't afford to lose this tax credit. Did your nanny ever find out that you filed without her SSN, and if so, how did she react?
Just want to add something - before you get too deep into this, consider the liability issues. If you mess up someone's return, even accidentally, they could potentially come after you if they get audited or penalized. Might be worth looking into some kind of professional liability insurance if you're going to make this a regular thing.
Great question! I've been using FreeTaxUSA's professional version for preparing returns for family and friends. It's much more affordable than the big names - around $25 per federal return plus state fees, and you can manage multiple clients under one account. What I really like about it is that it handles all the common situations you mentioned (W-2s, standard deductions, basic credits) really well, and the interface is clean and straightforward. You're not paying for a bunch of bells and whistles you probably won't need for simple returns. One thing to keep in mind - make sure you're comfortable with the responsibility aspect. Even with "basic" returns, there can be tricky situations that pop up (like unreported income, dependents with SSN issues, etc.). Having a good relationship with your clients about what you can and can't handle is key. I always tell people upfront that if their situation gets complicated, I'll refer them to a CPA. Also seconding what others said about the PTIN - definitely get that sorted first. It's free and required by law if you're charging for prep services.
Thanks for the FreeTaxUSA recommendation! I hadn't considered that one. The $25 per federal return pricing sounds really reasonable compared to some of the other options mentioned here. Quick question - when you say you can manage multiple clients under one account, does that mean you don't have to create separate logins for each person? That was one of my main concerns with some of the consumer versions I looked at. And do you know if they have good customer support if I run into issues during busy season? I'm definitely planning to get the PTIN sorted out first thing. Sounds like that's step one before doing anything else.
This is a really troubling situation, and I'm glad you caught it early. The fact that the VIN on the IRS letter doesn't match your vehicle is a major red flag that suggests either a serious clerical error or potentially fraudulent activity by the dealership. Here's what I'd recommend doing immediately: 1. **Document everything** - Take photos of your vehicle's VIN (usually visible through the windshield on the driver's side), gather all your purchase paperwork, and keep that IRS letter safe. 2. **Contact the IRS directly** - Don't wait on this. Call the Clean Vehicle Credit hotline at 1-866-455-7438. Explain the VIN mismatch and that you never knowingly transferred your credit. 3. **File complaints** - Report this to your state's Attorney General, the Better Business Bureau, and your state's motor vehicle dealer licensing board. If there's fraud involved, they need to know. 4. **Check your credit report** - Make sure no other vehicles or loans have been opened in your name. The good news is that the VIN mismatch actually works in your favor - it's clear evidence that something went wrong in the process. This isn't just a case of buried paperwork; there's a legitimate administrative error or worse happening here. Keep pushing for answers and don't let the dealership's non-responsiveness discourage you. You have rights as a consumer, and this situation definitely warrants investigation.
This is excellent advice! I'd also suggest reaching out to your local news stations if you don't get anywhere with the official channels. Consumer protection segments love stories like this, especially when there's potential dealer fraud involved. The threat of bad publicity often gets dealerships to respond much faster than official complaints. Also, consider checking if your state has a specific automotive ombudsman program - many states have these to help resolve disputes between consumers and dealers. They often have more leverage than general consumer protection offices. The VIN mismatch really is the smoking gun here. There's no innocent explanation for why a completely different vehicle's information would be on your IRS notice unless someone made a very serious error or is doing something shady with multiple customers' credits.
This situation definitely needs immediate attention, especially with that VIN mismatch. I work in automotive compliance and have seen similar cases where dealers submitted incorrect paperwork to the IRS, sometimes accidentally but occasionally as part of larger schemes. The fact that you have a completely different VIN on the IRS letter is actually helpful evidence - it clearly shows something went wrong in the process. When you contact the IRS Clean Vehicle Credit department, emphasize this point first. They can look up that VIN and see who actually owns that vehicle and whether a legitimate transfer was made. A few additional steps to consider: Request a copy of your complete sales file from the dealership in writing (certified mail). Even if they're not responding to calls, they're legally required to provide this in most states. Also, check if your vehicle purchase was financed - if so, the lender may have copies of all the paperwork that was supposed to be signed. One thing that concerns me is the 80-mile distance you mentioned. Dealers operating far from customers sometimes use this distance as a shield against complaints, making it harder for people to follow up in person. This could be part of a pattern if they're doing this to multiple customers. Document every attempt you make to contact them and keep pushing through official channels. The VIN discrepancy alone should be enough to get this resolved in your favor.
This is really helpful insight from someone in the industry! The point about dealers using distance as a shield is something I hadn't considered but makes total sense. If they're doing this to multiple customers, it would explain why they're completely ignoring calls - they're probably hoping people will just give up rather than make the long drive. The suggestion about requesting the complete sales file through certified mail is smart. Even if they don't respond to phone calls, having a paper trail of your requests will be important if this escalates to legal action or regulatory complaints. Plus, if there are other victims, having documented proof of their non-responsiveness could help build a pattern for investigators. I'm curious - in your experience, how common are these VIN mix-ups? Is this something that happens accidentally due to poor record-keeping, or does it usually indicate something more deliberate?
Anyone know if this affects social security and medicare withholding too? Or is that the same regardless of which state you're in?
This is a frustrating situation but definitely fixable! I went through something similar when my company incorrectly classified me as a California resident while I was actually living in Nevada. A few key things to prioritize: 1. **Document everything** - Save all your pay stubs showing the NY withholding, any emails with payroll, and proof of your Tennessee residency (lease, utility bills, etc.) 2. **Push for W-2c forms** - Don't let payroll just fix it going forward. You need corrected W-2c forms for 2022 and 2023 to properly file amended returns and get your money back. 3. **File non-resident returns** - You'll need to file NY non-resident returns showing $0 NY income to get refunds of the withheld taxes. Since Tennessee has no state income tax on wages, you should get back everything that was withheld. 4. **Check your federal filing status** - The fact that they also changed you from Married to Single could have affected your federal taxes too. Make sure that gets corrected on your W-2c forms. The good news is Tennessee's lack of state income tax makes this cleaner than it could be. You're not dealing with reciprocity agreements or partial credits between states. Just document everything and be persistent with payroll - they created this mess and need to fix it properly.
Amina Toure
Another approach that worked for me when I couldn't find clear documentation was to use the cost approach method. I contacted my homeowner's insurance company and they had records showing the replacement cost of the structure (building only) from when I converted to rental use. I took the replacement cost value and applied a depreciation factor to estimate what the building was worth in 2009, then subtracted that from my total property basis to get the land value. This gave me a reasonable land/building split that I could document. The insurance company's replacement cost estimates are considered reliable by the IRS because they're based on actual construction costs and square footage. Plus, insurance companies keep detailed records going back many years, so you might be able to get this information even if you don't have other documentation from 2009. Just make sure to adjust the replacement cost for the age and condition of your building at the conversion date. Most insurance companies can provide guidance on appropriate depreciation factors to use for this calculation.
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Anastasia Kuznetsov
β’That's a really creative approach using insurance replacement cost records! I never would have thought to contact my insurance company for this kind of documentation. This could be especially helpful for people who bought their properties a long time ago and don't have access to original settlement statements or property tax records from the conversion year. One question - when you say "apply a depreciation factor," did you use the standard IRS depreciation tables, or did your insurance company provide guidance on what factor to use? I'm wondering if there are specific guidelines for adjusting replacement cost values for tax basis calculations, or if it's more of a reasonable estimate approach. This seems like it could be a good backup method for anyone who can't get a retrospective appraisal done or doesn't have clear property tax assessment breakdowns from their conversion date.
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Diego Castillo
I went through this exact same situation a few years back! You absolutely do need to separate the land from building value on Form 4797, and here's a practical tip that might help: check with your mortgage lender from when you purchased the property in 2000. Many lenders actually require an appraisal that breaks down land vs improvement values for underwriting purposes, and they often keep these records for decades. I was able to get a copy of my original appraisal from 2003 that showed the land/building split, which made the Form 4797 calculations much more straightforward. If your lender doesn't have those records anymore, another option is to look at your homeowner's insurance policy from around 2009 when you converted to rental. The dwelling coverage amount typically represents just the building value (since you can't insure land), and you can use that as a reasonable basis for the building portion. One thing to watch out for - make sure you're using the values from 2009 (conversion date) not from 2000 (purchase date) for your depreciation calculations. The depreciable basis should be the lesser of your adjusted basis or fair market value at the time of conversion to rental use. TurboTax should have a section for detailed property entry where you can input these values separately, but sometimes you have to dig into the advanced options rather than just following the basic interview questions. Good luck!
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