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Liam Murphy

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I'm also waiting on a Navy Federal deposit with a 2/24 DDD! Filed jointly for the first time this year too. Haven't received mine yet, but based on what others are saying, I'm planning to check my account first thing tomorrow morning. The text alert suggestion from Edward is really smart - I just set that up now so I don't have to keep obsessively checking my account. It's reassuring to hear that Navy Federal is generally reliable with posting on the actual DDD date. Fingers crossed we both see our deposits hit tomorrow!

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Same here! Also Navy Federal with a 2/24 DDD and first time filing jointly. I've been checking my account way too often today. The text alert tip is brilliant - just set mine up too. It's nice to know there are others in the exact same situation. Hopefully we'll all wake up to good news tomorrow morning! Has anyone noticed if Navy Federal shows pending deposits before they actually post, or do they just appear as available funds right away?

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Navy Federal customer here! I had a DDD of 2/24 as well and mine posted around 3 AM this morning. I'm also filing jointly for the first time this year, so that doesn't seem to affect the timing. For what it's worth, I never saw it show as pending - it just appeared as available funds when I checked this morning. The text alert suggestion from Edward is spot on - that's actually how I found out it had hit before I even checked the app. If you haven't received yours yet, I'd definitely check again tomorrow morning since deposits can post throughout the early morning hours.

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Oliver Weber

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That's such great news to hear! I'm one of the people still waiting with the same 2/24 DDD and joint filing situation. It's really encouraging to know that yours posted right on time and that the joint filing didn't cause any delays. I just checked my account again and still nothing, but I'll definitely be looking first thing in the morning. Thanks for sharing your experience - it gives me hope that mine will show up soon too! Did you get your refund amount exactly as expected, or were there any surprises?

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TommyKapitz

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I work in benefits administration and deal with this every year. Here's a simple rule: NEVER have overlapping HSA and FSA coverage, even for a single day. The safest approach is to: 1) Terminate HSA contributions with your last January paycheck (the one paid on/before Jan 31) 2) Start FSA with your first February paycheck Technically, your HSA contribution limit for 2025 will be prorated for just January, so you're only eligible for 1/12 of the annual limit anyway during this year of transition. If you've already maxed out January's prorated amount with your first two January paychecks, you're already at your limit.

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Are you sure about that 1/12 proration? I thought the HSA limit wasn't prorated as long as you're eligible on December 1st and satisfy the testing period. But if you lose eligibility early in the year, do you actually need to prorate?

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You're right to question that - the proration rule is more complex. If you're HSA-eligible on December 1st, you can contribute the full annual amount regardless of when during the year you became eligible (this is called the "last month rule"). However, if you lose HSA eligibility before December 1st, then yes, your contribution limit gets prorated based on the number of months you were eligible. In the original poster's case, since they're switching to FSA coverage starting February 1st, they won't be HSA-eligible on December 1st, so their 2025 HSA contribution limit will indeed be prorated to just January (1/12 of the annual limit). If they've already contributed more than that 1/12 amount in their first two January paychecks, they'd actually have excess contributions that need to be corrected.

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Jamal Carter

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This is a great example of why you can't trust HR departments with complex tax rules! I had a similar situation two years ago where my company's benefits team gave me completely wrong information about HSA/FSA transitions. The key issue here is that once you have FSA coverage starting February 1st, you become HSA-ineligible immediately. This means any HSA contribution made after that date - even if it's coded for January - creates a compliance problem because the physical contribution occurs when you're no longer eligible. Plus, as others have mentioned, since you're losing HSA eligibility before December 1st, your 2025 contribution limit will be prorated to just 1/12 of the annual maximum (since you're only eligible for January). If you've already contributed more than that amount in your first two January paychecks, you'll need to request a return of excess contributions anyway. My advice: Stop that final HSA contribution immediately, and double-check that your January contributions don't exceed the prorated limit. It's much easier to prevent these issues than to fix them after the fact on your tax return.

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Leo McDonald

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This is really helpful information! I'm dealing with a similar transition situation and hadn't realized the proration issue. Quick question - if someone has already over-contributed in January before realizing the 1/12 limit applies, what's the best way to get those excess contributions back? Do you just contact the HSA provider directly, or does it have to go through payroll since it was a payroll deduction?

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Ryan Vasquez

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Just want to add - hobby losses are treated differently than business losses. Since you're just selling personal items without intent to make a profit, this would be considered a hobby activity. You report the income on Schedule C but check "No" for business activity. The downside is you can only claim enough expenses to offset your income - you can't claim a loss if your expenses exceed your income. But since you're just trying to show zero profit, that shouldn't be an issue in your case.

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Avery Saint

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Wait, so if OP spent $30k buying these cards over the years but only sold them for $26k, they can't claim that $4k loss?

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Ryan Vasquez

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That's correct. With hobby activities, you can only deduct expenses up to the amount of income you received. So in your example, they could deduct $26k of their $30k expenses, zeroing out the income, but couldn't claim the additional $4k as a loss on their taxes. This is different from a legitimate business where you can deduct all expenses and carry forward losses. It's one of the drawbacks of hobby classification, but it's still better than paying taxes on the full $26k without deducting any expenses.

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Taylor Chen

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I don't think this needs to be on Schedule C at all. This sounds like selling personal items, which would go on Schedule D as capital gains/losses. You report your basis (what you paid) and your selling price, and pay taxes only on the gain if there is any.

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Schedule D is for investment assets, not personal belongings. Trading cards would only go on Schedule D if they were bought specifically as an investment. If you're just selling off your personal collection, it's different.

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Actually, @Taylor Chen might be onto something here. The IRS treats collectibles as capital assets when held for personal use. If OP bought these cards for personal enjoyment and is now selling them, they could potentially report this on Schedule D instead of Schedule C. The key question is whether this was truly personal collecting or if there was business intent. Given that OP received a 1099-K though, they ll'need to account for that reported income somewhere on their return - either Schedule C or Schedule D would work, but Schedule D might be more appropriate for personal collectibles.

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When Will I Get My $6,547 Refund with Cycle Code 20250605? Transcript Shows EIC, Feb 24 Processing Date, and April 15 Credit Dates

I got my transcripts and trying to figure out my refund date. My cycle code is 20250605 and I see my account balance is -6,547.00 but idk what any of this means? Looking at my transcript in detail: ANY MINUS SIGN SHOWN BELOW SIGNIFIES A CREDIT AMOUNT --- ACCOUNT BALANCE: -6,547.00 ACCRUED INTEREST: 0.00 AS OF: Mar. 03, 2025 ACCRUED PENALTY: 0.00 AS OF: Mar. 03, 2025 ACCOUNT BALANCE PLUS ACCRUALS (this is not a payoff amount) -6,547.00 ** INFORMATION FROM THE RETURN OR AS ADJUSTED ** EXEMPTIONS: 03 FILING STATUS: Head of Household ADJUSTED GROSS INCOME: 19,170.00 TAXABLE INCOME: 0.00 TAX PER RETURN: 2,914.00 SE TAXABLE INCOME TAXPAYER 19,049.00 SE TAXABLE INCOME SPOUSE: 0.00 TOTAL SELF EMPLOYMENT TAX: 2,914.00 RETURN DUE DATE OR RETURN RECEIVED DATE (WHICHEVER IS LATER) Apr. 15, 2025 PROCESSING DATE Feb. 24, 2025 TRANSACTIONS CODE EXPLANATION OF TRANSACTION CYCLE DATE AMOUNT 150 Tax return filed 20250605 02-24-2025 $2,914.00 76211-424-74432-5 766 Credit to your account 04-15-2025 -$2,501.00 768 Earned income credit 04-15-2025 -$6,960.00 This Product Contains Sensitive Taxpayer Data I filed as Head of Household with 3 exemptions, and my adjusted gross income was 19,170.00. My taxable income shows 0.00, but I had self-employment tax of 2,914.00 on my SE taxable income of 19,049.00. I see there's a processing date of Feb. 24, 2025, and the transcript shows credits including -2,501.00 (code 766) and earned income credit of -6,960.00 (code 768). The account balance section shows -6,547.00 with no accrued interest or penalties as of Mar. 03, 2025. Can someone break this down for me and tell me when I should expect my refund? I notice there's a date of Apr. 15, 2025 listed for both the "Credit to your account" and "Earned income credit" transactions, but I'm not sure if that's when I'll actually get the money. Is the cycle code 20250605 important for determining my refund date?

thats a decent EIC amount! make sure you got all your ducks in a row cause the IRS loves to verify EIC claims

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Zara Perez

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Looking at your transcript, the key thing to understand is that April 15th date isn't when you'll get your refund - that's just when the credits are scheduled to post to your account. With cycle code 20250605 (which means week 6 of 2025, processed on Thursday), you're actually in a pretty good spot timing-wise. Most people with similar cycle codes from that processing batch have been seeing their refunds hit accounts within 1-2 weeks after the credit posting date. So realistically you're probably looking at late April/early May for the actual deposit. Your $6,547 refund comes from the EIC of $6,960 plus the $2,501 credit minus your $2,914 self-employment tax. Just keep checking WMR and your bank account around April 20th-25th!

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Omar Hassan

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This is super helpful! I've been trying to understand all these codes and dates myself. Quick question - do you know if there's any way to get a more precise estimate of when it'll hit? Like is there a pattern with cycle codes or does it just depend on the IRS's mood that week? šŸ˜…

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@Omar Hassan there actually is a pattern! Cycle codes ending in 05 Thursday (processing usually) see refunds hit 7-10 business days after the credit posting date. So with April 15th credits, you d'be looking at April 24th-29th realistically. The IRS batch processes refunds, so people with similar cycle codes from the same week tend to get paid around the same time. I ve'been tracking this stuff for years and it s'pretty consistent unless there are holds or reviews on your return.

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I might be in the minority, but for my first year with a partnership, I just bit the bullet and hired a CPA. Cost me about $800, but they handled all the K-1 generation, made sure our allocations were correct, and found deductions I would have missed. Plus they showed me exactly what they did so I could potentially DIY in future years. Sometimes paying a professional for year one is worth it just for the peace of mind and education. My CPA literally walked me through each form so I understood what was happening.

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$800 seems really reasonable for partnership returns. I was quoted $1500-2000 in my area. Did you use a local CPA or an online service?

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Vera Visnjic

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As someone who just went through this exact process for the first time, I can share what worked for me. I ended up using a hybrid approach - I used TaxAct Business to prepare the 1065 return (which automatically generated the K-1s), but before jumping in, I spent time understanding our partnership agreement and how different income/expense categories should be allocated. The key insight I wish someone had told me earlier: the K-1 forms are literally just printouts from your business tax return software. You don't create them separately - they're generated automatically once you complete Form 1065 with all your partnership details and allocations entered correctly. For a first-timer, I'd recommend either: 1) Upgrade to business tax software and take your time working through it methodically, or 2) Pay a professional for year one but ask them to walk you through the process so you understand it for next year. The worst thing you can do is guess on partnership allocations since the IRS scrutinizes these pretty carefully. Also, definitely file for an extension if you're running short on time - partnerships have a March 15 deadline, but an extension gives you until September 15 to get everything right.

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This is exactly the kind of practical advice I needed! I had no idea that K-1s were just automatically generated from the 1065 - I was picturing having to create separate forms somehow. Your hybrid approach sounds smart too. I think I'm leaning toward upgrading to TaxAct Business since I'm already familiar with their interface from doing personal returns. The March 15 deadline is definitely something I need to keep in mind - I didn't realize partnership returns had an earlier deadline than personal returns. Thanks for breaking this down so clearly!

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