IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.



Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

Read all of our Trustpilot reviews


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

Changing cycle dates are much more common than unchanging ones, especially in February and March. Compare it to shipping estimates that adjust as your package moves through different facilities. I've seen returns with as many as 6 cycle date changes that processed without any issues. The final cycle date (March 3rd in your case) is typically the most accurate. If your WMR bars are still moving or your transcript shows codes in the 700-800 range, you're still in normal processing. This is actually reassuring compared to situations where the date stops updating entirely, which can indicate a review or hold.

0 coins

Brian Downey

•

I experienced this exact same issue last year and tracked it obsessively! My cycle date changed 5 times over 3 weeks - from Feb 12 to Feb 19 to Feb 26 to Mar 5 to Mar 12. Each time I thought something was wrong, but it turned out to be completely normal. The IRS system automatically updates cycle dates based on processing capacity and queue management. What helped me stay sane was understanding that these changes actually indicate your return IS being processed, not that it's stuck. A frozen cycle date would be more concerning. Your March 3rd date is likely your most accurate estimate now. I'd suggest checking your transcript weekly rather than daily to avoid the stress of watching every small change!

0 coins

Malik Jenkins

•

Regarding estimated tax payments - since you're looking at owing around $6,375 in federal capital gains tax (assuming the 15% rate applies), you should definitely consider making an estimated payment to avoid underpayment penalties. The general rule is if you'll owe more than $1,000 when you file, you should make estimated payments. You can either pay 25% quarterly or make one lump sum payment now for the full amount. You can make the payment easily through the IRS Direct Pay system online - just search for "IRS Direct Pay" and you can pay directly from your bank account. Make sure to specify it's for estimated taxes when you make the payment. Also, double-check which tax bracket you're actually in after adding the capital gains to your regular income. While capital gains are taxed at preferential rates, they can still push you into higher brackets for other calculations.

0 coins

Just want to add some perspective as someone who went through this exact situation a couple years ago. With your $78K income and $42,500 in long-term capital gains, you're looking at the 15% federal rate as others mentioned, so around $6,375 in federal taxes. But here's what I wish someone had told me - definitely make that estimated payment sooner rather than later. I waited until December and ended up with underpayment penalties that cost me an extra $400. The IRS expects you to pay as you earn, so even though you sold in summer, they want their cut by the quarterly due dates. One other thing - if you have any investments currently at a loss, consider selling some of those before year-end to offset your gains. I was able to reduce my taxable gains by about $8,000 this way by selling some underperforming stocks I was planning to dump anyway. Just make sure you understand the wash sale rules if you plan to buy them back. The silver lining is that at least you held for more than a year - short-term gains would have been taxed as ordinary income, which would have been much more painful at your income level.

0 coins

Paolo Conti

•

This is really helpful advice! I'm curious about the wash sale rules you mentioned - how exactly do they work? If I sell some losing stocks to offset my gains, how long do I have to wait before I can buy them back if I still like the company long-term? And does it apply to similar stocks or just the exact same ones? I'm also wondering about the timing of estimated payments. Since it's already past the third quarter deadline, should I just make the full payment now or wait until January? I don't want to get hit with penalties like you did.

0 coins

Great question about wash sale rules! You need to wait 31 days before repurchasing the same stock (or substantially identical securities) to avoid having your loss disallowed. So if you sell Apple at a loss today, you can't buy Apple again for 31 days. Similar stocks are usually okay - like selling Apple and buying Microsoft wouldn't trigger wash sale rules. For estimated payments, since we're past the Q3 deadline (September 16th), I'd recommend making a payment now for the full amount you expect to owe. The Q4 deadline is January 15th, 2025, but paying now will minimize any potential penalties. The IRS calculates penalties from when the tax was actually due, so earlier is always better. You can make the payment through IRS Direct Pay online - just make sure to select "Estimated Tax" as the payment type and specify it's for tax year 2024.

0 coins

Quick tip from experience: If you're on the fence about hobby vs business, document EVERYTHING that shows you're trying to make a profit. Keep receipts, mileage logs if you travel to sell items, take photos of your workspace, save emails with customers, etc. The IRS looks at your "profit motive" above all else. If you get audited and can show you were seriously trying to make money (even if you weren't successful), you're more likely to keep your business classification.

0 coins

How many years can you report losses before the IRS automatically considers it a hobby? I've heard people say 3 years, others say 5 years. My side gig selling 3D printed items hasn't been profitable yet but I'm still building inventory and customers.

0 coins

The general guideline is that you should show a profit in at least 3 out of 5 consecutive years to avoid automatic classification as a hobby. However, this isn't an absolute rule. If you've had losses for more than 2 years, you'll want to document all the ways you're working toward profitability. For your 3D printing business, keep detailed records of your marketing efforts, any classes or training you've taken to improve your products, adjustments you've made to pricing, and your business plan showing projected path to profitability. Even with multiple years of losses, you can still maintain business status if you can prove legitimate profit motive and that you're running the activity in a businesslike manner.

0 coins

Dylan Evans

•

For those confused about hobby vs business reporting, here's the simplest way to think about it: BUSINESS: You're doing something with the primary goal of making money, even if you also enjoy it. You're making decisions to maximize profits. You can deduct ALL legitimate business expenses, even if they exceed your income. HOBBY: You're doing something primarily for fun or personal fulfillment. Making money is secondary. You must report ALL income, but after 2018 tax law changes, you CANNOT deduct ANY expenses.

0 coins

Sofia Gomez

•

Omg thank you for making it so clear!! So if I received free beauty products worth about $500 to review on my tiny instagram (like 900 followers lol) and I'm not really trying to make this a career, just doing it for fun... that would be hobby income and I'd owe taxes on the full $500 value with no deductions?

0 coins

Amina Sy

•

Just to add to what others have said - its important to understand that Form 1125-A should only include direct costs. Indirect costs like marketing, general shop utilities, office supplies etc usually go on Schedule C instead. The IRS looks closely at COGS so don't try to dump everything there!

0 coins

Ella Lewis

•

Great thread! As someone who's been doing taxes for small manufacturers for years, I want to emphasize a few key points for your furniture business: 1. Raw materials (wood, hardware, finishes) - YES, these definitely go on Form 1125-A 2. Tools - As Dylan mentioned, expensive tools that last multiple years should be depreciated as capital assets, not included in COGS. But consumables like sandpaper, drill bits, saw blades that wear out quickly can be included. 3. Workshop space - This is tricky for home-based businesses. Generally, rent/utilities for dedicated production space can be included in COGS, but for a garage workspace that's part of your home, it's usually better to claim this as a home office deduction on Schedule C. One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet: don't forget about freight and shipping costs for materials you purchase! If you pay shipping to get lumber delivered, that's part of your material cost and belongs on Form 1125-A. Also, make sure you're tracking your inventory correctly - any unsold finished furniture or unused materials at year-end reduces your COGS. With $87k revenue and $32k in materials, you're definitely in territory where the IRS expects proper inventory accounting.

0 coins

Has anyone actually done the math to see if these "green" improvements are worth it financially? I priced out a heat pump and it was going to cost me $8k AFTER the tax credit. My furnace works fine and my electric bill is only like $100/month. Seems like I'd never break even?

0 coins

Ryan Kim

•

We replaced our old HVAC with a heat pump last year and our electricity bill dropped by about $70/month. At that rate it'll take us about 8 years to break even considering the tax credit. Not amazing but not terrible either, plus our house is way more comfortable now.

0 coins

Grace Thomas

•

Just wanted to chime in as someone who actually went through this process last year. The carryforward feature is clutch! I installed a qualifying heat pump system for about $6,000, which gave me a $1,800 credit (30%). My tax liability was only $800, so I used $800 in 2023 and I'm carrying forward $1,000 to use this year. One thing to keep in mind with your $120k income - you'll likely have a decent tax liability, so you probably won't need to worry too much about the carryforward situation. But it's nice knowing it's there as a safety net. Also, make sure your contractor provides documentation showing the equipment meets the required energy efficiency standards. The IRS can ask for this during an audit, and without proper documentation, they can disallow the entire credit. My contractor knew exactly what paperwork I needed, but I've heard horror stories of people getting burned because their contractor didn't provide the right certifications.

0 coins

AstroAce

•

This is really helpful to hear from someone who actually went through it! I'm curious about the documentation part you mentioned - what specific certifications did your contractor need to provide? I'm getting quotes now and want to make sure I ask for the right paperwork upfront. Did they give you something like an AHRI certificate or Energy Star documentation? I'd hate to find out after installation that I'm missing something important for the credit.

0 coins

Prev1...24012402240324042405...5644Next