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Elijah Brown

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ALWAYS get a third opinion when you see big differences like this! I went through something similar when I had rental property income, self-employment, and investments all in one year. The different tax programs interpreted some things completely differently (especially depreciation methods and home office calculations). Ended up taking everything to an actual CPA who found even MORE deductions that both software programs missed.

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How much did the CPA cost compared to using tax software? Was it worth the extra expense?

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This is exactly why I always double-check my returns! Last year I had a similar issue with TaxAct vs. FreeTaxUSA showing a $1,800 difference. The main culprit was how they handled my HSA contributions and a dependent care FSA rollover. One thing that really helped me was printing out both returns and going through them page by page with the actual IRS forms and instructions. It sounds tedious, but I found several places where one software was asking leading questions that pushed me toward less favorable tax treatments. For your situation, I'd be especially careful about that education credit difference - make sure you actually qualify for it by checking Form 8863 requirements directly. Sometimes the software will give you credits you don't actually deserve, which could definitely trigger an audit later. Also, with your mid-year state move, double-check which state is claiming what income. I've seen cases where people accidentally paid tax to both states on the same income because the software didn't handle the transition correctly. My recommendation would be to take the conservative approach and maybe split the difference - use the deductions you're 100% confident about from both returns rather than just going with the higher refund amount.

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StarSeeker

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This is really solid advice! I'm dealing with something similar right now and the page-by-page comparison approach makes a lot of sense. Quick question - when you were comparing the forms directly, did you find that one software was consistently more aggressive with deductions, or was it more random where the differences showed up? I'm trying to figure out if there's a pattern to which service tends to be more conservative vs. more aggressive.

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Great question! Your wife can definitely start a sole proprietorship while you continue your full-time job. Since you file jointly, you'll include her business income and expenses on Schedule C of your joint return - no need for separate filings. A few key things to keep in mind: 1. **Self-employment tax**: Your wife will need to pay self-employment tax (15.3%) on any profit from the business, which covers Social Security and Medicare taxes. 2. **Quarterly estimated taxes**: If she expects to owe $1,000 or more in taxes from the business, she should make quarterly payments to avoid penalties. You can use Form 1040-ES to calculate these. 3. **Business losses**: Yes, any business losses can offset your joint income, potentially lowering your overall tax bill. Just make sure to keep detailed records to show it's a legitimate business and not a hobby. 4. **Record keeping**: Get a separate business bank account and credit card, save all receipts, and track mileage for business use. Good documentation is crucial, especially for deductions like home office expenses. Since your combined income will likely be higher with the business, consider setting aside 25-30% of her business income for taxes to be safe. You might also want to adjust your W-4 withholding to cover the additional tax liability instead of making quarterly payments.

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Zara Ahmed

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This is really helpful! One thing I'm still confused about - if my spouse's business loses money in the first year (which seems likely with startup costs), does that actually reduce our overall tax bill? Like if I make $78k and her business loses $5k, do we only pay taxes on $73k? That seems almost too good to be true. Also, what counts as legitimate startup costs that we can deduct right away?

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Yes, you're absolutely right! If your spouse's business has a legitimate loss of $5k in the first year, it does reduce your taxable income from $78k to $73k on your joint return. This can result in real tax savings - potentially $1,100-1,200 less in taxes depending on your tax bracket. For startup costs, you can typically deduct up to $5,000 in business startup expenses in the first year (with the remainder amortized over 15 years). This includes things like: - Business registration fees and permits - Market research and advertising to launch the business - Professional services (attorney, accountant consultations) - Equipment and supplies needed to start operations - Initial inventory purchases - Website development and branding costs Just remember the IRS has "hobby loss" rules - they want to see that you're genuinely trying to make a profit. Keep detailed records showing business intent, like a business plan, marketing efforts, and professional development. As long as you can demonstrate it's a real business venture and not just a tax writeoff, those losses are completely legitimate! The key is treating it like a real business from day one with proper record-keeping and business practices.

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One thing to add that I don't see mentioned much - make sure you understand how the home office deduction works when filing jointly! My wife runs her consulting business from our spare bedroom, and we learned the hard way that you can only deduct the percentage of your home that's used EXCLUSIVELY for business. The simplified method lets you deduct $5 per square foot up to 300 sq ft (max $1,500), or you can use the actual expense method where you calculate the percentage of your home used for business and apply that to your mortgage interest, utilities, insurance, etc. Also, don't forget about the 20% qualified business income deduction (Section 199A) - if your wife's business qualifies as a pass-through entity (which sole proprietorships do), you might be able to deduct 20% of the business income from your taxable income. There are income limits and some restrictions, but it's worth looking into since it can be a significant tax saver! Just make sure that home office space is used ONLY for business - the IRS is pretty strict about that "exclusive use" requirement.

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Diego Vargas

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This is super helpful info about the home office deduction! I had no idea about that "exclusive use" rule - we were thinking of using our dining room table sometimes for the business but sounds like that wouldn't qualify. Quick question about the Section 199A deduction - does that apply even in the first year when the business might be losing money? Or do you only get that 20% deduction when there's actual profit to deduct from?

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One important thing to verify with your nature preserve is whether they'll provide you with a contemporaneous written acknowledgment that meets IRS requirements. For donations over $250, you need this acknowledgment that includes a description of the property donated and a statement that no goods or services were provided in exchange (or the value if any were provided). Since this is adjacent land that will be incorporated into their existing preserve, make sure they provide written confirmation that the land will be used exclusively for conservation purposes and won't be sold. This "related use" documentation can be crucial if you're ever audited, as it supports your ability to deduct the full fair market value rather than being limited to your basis. Also, don't forget that you'll need to reduce your basis in the property to zero for tax purposes once you donate it, which shouldn't be an issue given your low $675 basis. The $67,325 difference between your basis and the fair market value won't trigger any immediate tax consequences to you, but it's worth noting for your records.

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Liv Park

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This is excellent advice about the contemporaneous written acknowledgment! I'm actually in the early stages of planning a similar donation and hadn't realized how specific the documentation needs to be. One follow-up question: does the "related use" confirmation need to be obtained before the donation is made, or can it be provided after the fact as long as it's before I file my tax return? I want to make sure I get the timing right since I'm still in discussions with the local land trust about exactly how they plan to manage the property once it's incorporated into their preserve. Also, when you mention reducing the basis to zero - does this need to be reported anywhere specific on the tax return, or is it just for my own record-keeping purposes?

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Mason Kaczka

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Great question about timing! The contemporaneous written acknowledgment should ideally be obtained by the time you file your return, but it's generally acceptable to get it after the donation as long as it's before the filing deadline. However, I'd recommend getting it as close to the donation date as possible to avoid any potential issues. For the "related use" confirmation, you'll want this documented before or at the time of donation since it affects your ability to deduct fair market value. If the organization's intended use changes after the donation, it could potentially impact your deduction. Regarding the basis reduction - this is primarily for your record-keeping. When you donate the property, you're essentially disposing of an asset with a $675 basis for no monetary consideration. You don't need to report this as a separate line item on your tax return, but it's important for your records in case of future questions. The donation itself gets reported on Schedule A (if itemizing) and Form 8283, but the basis reduction is just an accounting matter on your end. Keep good documentation of both the original basis and the donation for your files!

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Paolo Rizzo

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This is a great discussion with lots of practical advice! As someone who recently went through a similar land donation process, I wanted to add a few points that might be helpful. First, regarding the appraisal - make sure your appraiser is familiar with conservation land valuations specifically. I initially hired a residential appraiser who missed some key considerations for undeveloped land adjacent to protected areas. The conservation-focused appraiser I eventually used included analysis of development restrictions, access issues, and comparable conservation sales that made the valuation much more defensible. Second, consider getting a preliminary title search done before finalizing everything. We discovered some old easement issues that needed to be resolved before the donation could proceed. It's better to find these issues early rather than during the donation process. Finally, document everything thoroughly - not just for the IRS, but for your own records. I created a comprehensive file with photos of the property, correspondence with the charity, all legal documents, and a timeline of the donation process. This proved invaluable when I had follow-up questions months later. The 30% AGI limitation and carryforward provisions work exactly as others have described here. Just make sure you understand how it will affect your tax planning over the 5-year carryforward period. Good luck with your donation!

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I'm currently weighing my options between these same prep courses and this thread has been incredibly insightful! As someone who learns best through a mix of visual and hands-on practice, I'm leaning toward Fast Forward Academy based on the feedback about their interactive approach and conceptual explanations. The mobile functionality aspect is huge for me since I have a 45-minute commute each way. @Isabella Santos and @Rudy Cenizo's positive experiences with the tablet/mobile interface really sealed the deal for me. Being able to make productive use of that commute time could add up to significant extra study hours over the course of my prep. I'm also really intrigued by the combination approach that @PrinceJoe described. Starting with Fast Forward for understanding and then supplementing with Gleim's practice questions closer to exam time sounds like a solid strategy, even if it means a bigger upfront investment. One question for those who've passed - how important was it to stick to a rigid study schedule versus being more flexible? With my work demands varying week to week, I'm wondering if I should plan for consistent daily study time or if longer weekend sessions can be just as effective for retention. Thanks to everyone who's shared their experiences here - this community feedback is way more valuable than any marketing material from the prep companies!

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@Freya Nielsen Great question about study schedules! As someone who just started my EA journey, I ve'been wondering the same thing. From what I ve'gathered reading through everyone s'experiences here, it seems like consistency might be more important than the total hours per session. I m'planning to start with Fast Forward Academy too based on all the positive feedback about their mobile platform and conceptual approach. The fact that you can pick up right where you left off across devices seems perfect for accommodating unpredictable work schedules. For the combination approach that @PrinceJoe mentioned, I m'thinking of budgeting for both platforms from the start but maybe spacing out the purchases - start with Fast Forward for the foundation building, then add Gleim closer to exam time when I m'ready for intensive practice questions. That way I can spread the cost over a few months while still getting the benefits of both approaches. Has anyone tried setting up study accountability with other EA candidates? I m'wondering if having a study buddy or small group might help with motivation, especially during the tougher topics. The tax material can be pretty dry, so having others to discuss concepts with could make it more engaging. Looking forward to hearing more experiences as people progress through their studies!

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Emma Thompson

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As someone who just passed all three EA parts last month, I wanted to share my experience since this thread has been so helpful for others planning their approach. I ended up going with Fast Forward Academy after reading through similar discussions, and I'm really glad I made that choice. What stood out most was how their adaptive learning system actually worked - it wasn't just a marketing gimmick. The platform really did identify my weak areas (especially in partnership taxation and estate planning) and adjusted my study sessions accordingly. The mobile experience was seamless, which was crucial since I was studying during my commute and lunch breaks. I probably got in an extra 8-10 hours of study time per week just by using those small pockets of time effectively. One thing I'd add to the discussion is their customer support - when I had questions about specific tax scenarios that seemed confusing, their subject matter experts actually responded with detailed explanations within 24 hours. That level of support made a huge difference when I was stuck on complex topics. For timing, I studied about 6-8 weeks for each part, putting in roughly 15-20 hours per week. The key was staying consistent rather than trying to cram everything into weekend marathon sessions. The spaced repetition approach really helped with retention. Final scores were 82%, 85%, and 79% respectively - all comfortable passes on first attempts. Happy to answer any specific questions about the platform or study approach!

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Form 8962 Shows $0 Premium for Jan-Feb but $394 Monthly from Mar-Oct with $3,940 Total PTC - Why Zero Annual Premium?

I'm looking at my Form 8962 Premium Tax Credit breakdown and I'm really confused about these numbers. The form shows the Married Filing Separately Premium Tax Credit Exception Checkbox Indicator is 0, the FEDERAL POVERTY LEVEL CHECKBOX is marked "c", and my DEPENDENTS MODIFIED AGI is $0.00. My MONTHLY CONTRIBUTION FOR HEALTH CARE shows $0.00 as well. What's confusing me is the breakdown by month. The first two months (January and February) show $0.00 for all values: - JANUARY MONTHLY PREMIUM: $0.00 - JANUARY MONTHLY PREMIUM SLCSP: $0.00 - JANUARY MONTHLY ADVANCE PTC: $0.00 - FEBRUARY MONTHLY PREMIUM: $0.00 - FEBRUARY MONTHLY PREMIUM SLCSP: $0.00 - FEBRUARY MONTHLY ADVANCE PTC: $0.00 But then starting in March, I'm seeing consistent amounts throughout the rest of the year: - MARCH MONTHLY PREMIUM: $494.00 - MARCH MONTHLY PREMIUM SLCSP: $518.00 - MARCH MONTHLY ADVANCE PTC: $494.00 - APRIL MONTHLY PREMIUM: $494.00 - APRIL MONTHLY PREMIUM SLCSP: $518.00 - APRIL MONTHLY ADVANCE PTC: $494.00 - MAY MONTHLY PREMIUM: $494.00 - MAY MONTHLY PREMIUM SLCSP: $518.00 - MAY MONTHLY ADVANCE PTC: $494.00 - JUNE MONTHLY PREMIUM: $494.00 - JUNE MONTHLY PREMIUM SLCSP: $518.00 - JUNE MONTHLY ADVANCE PTC: $494.00 - JULY MONTHLY PREMIUM: $494.00 - JULY MONTHLY PREMIUM SLCSP: $518.00 - JULY MONTHLY ADVANCE PTC: $494.00 - AUGUST MONTHLY PREMIUM: $494.00 - AUGUST MONTHLY PREMIUM SLCSP: $518.00 - AUGUST MONTHLY ADVANCE PTC: $494.00 - SEPTEMBER MONTHLY PREMIUM: $494.00 - SEPTEMBER MONTHLY PREMIUM SLCSP: $518.00 - SEPTEMBER MONTHLY ADVANCE PTC: $494.00 - OCTOBER MONTHLY PREMIUM: $494.00 - OCTOBER MONTHLY PREMIUM SLCSP: $518.00 - OCTOBER MONTHLY ADVANCE PTC: $494.00 - NOVEMBER MONTHLY PREMIUM: $494.00 - NOVEMBER MONTHLY PREMIUM SLCSP: $518.00 - NOVEMBER MONTHLY ADVANCE PTC: $494.00 - DECEMBER MONTHLY PREMIUM: $494.00 - DECEMBER MONTHLY PREMIUM SLCSP: $518.00 - DECEMBER MONTHLY ADVANCE PTC: $494.00 What's weird is that even though these monthly amounts are showing, the ANNUAL PREMIUM, ANNUAL PREMIUM SLCSP, and ANNUAL ADVANCE PAYMENT OF PTC all show $0.00 on the form. Yet my TOTAL PREMIUM TAX CREDIT shows as $4,940.00 and NET PREMIUM TAX CREDIT is also $4,940.00. I also notice I have no education credits (Form 8863 shows $0.00 for everything). Does this mean I don't have to pay anything for those months showing $494.00, or is this amount on top of what I already get? I'm particularly confused about why the first two months show $0.00 while the rest show these consistent amounts. Really need help understanding these Premium Tax Credit numbers and what they mean for my healthcare coverage. The form says "This Product Contains Sensitive Taxpayer Data" at the bottom.

Make sure your income hasn't changed much from what you reported. That's super important bc if you made more than expected you might have to pay some back.

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Diego Vargas

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wait what?? how do i check that?

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compare ur estimated income from when u signed up to what u actually made. marketplace should have sent u a letter bout it

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Just want to add - the reason Jan/Feb show $0 is probably because your coverage didn't start until March. That's pretty common when people sign up during open enrollment or have a qualifying life event. The $3,940 total makes perfect sense: $394/month x 10 months (Mar-Dec) = $3,940. Your coverage was essentially free since the PTC covered your full premium amount!

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Zara Perez

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This is super helpful! I was wondering why those first two months were zeros. Makes total sense that coverage started in March. Really appreciate everyone breaking this down - I was so confused thinking I owed money when actually the government was covering everything šŸ˜…

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