Just a heads-up based on personal experience: be VERY careful with your record keeping if you're doing Roth corrections or backdoor contributions. I messed up my basis tracking over multiple years and got hit with a CP2000 notice claiming I owed taxes on conversions that should have been tax-free. It took me months to untangle everything because I didn't have proper documentation for which contributions had been withdrawn as excess vs. which ones were converted properly. Make sure you keep ALL your 5498 and 1099-R forms indefinitely!

Based on your description, it sounds like you handled the excess contribution removal correctly by withdrawing before the filing deadline, which should have avoided the 6% penalty. However, there are a couple of areas that need attention: Your basis calculation is indeed incorrect. Since you withdrew the entire 2023 contribution of $1,500, that amount should NOT be included in your ongoing basis. Your basis should only reflect contributions that remain in the account - so for 2024, it should just be $7,000 (assuming you're eligible for the 2024 contribution). You should have received a 1099-R for the 2024 withdrawal showing the $1,530 distribution. The $1,500 principal portion isn't taxable since it was a return of excess contributions, but the $30 in earnings should be reported as taxable income on your 2024 return. If you're under 59½, those earnings are also subject to the 10% early withdrawal penalty. Make sure your IRA provider coded the 1099-R correctly - it should show code P or JP in box 7 to indicate "return of excess contributions." This helps the IRS understand the nature of the distribution. For 2024, double-check that your income still qualifies you for the $7,000 Roth contribution. If you're over the limit again, you'll want to address this before the filing deadline to avoid repeating the same issue. You likely don't need to amend your 2023 return if you properly reported the excess on Form 5329, but you should verify that your 2024 return correctly reports the earnings portion of the withdrawal as taxable income.

Looks like your getting a decent refund with all those credits! Worth the wait ig 🤑

The 810 freeze code from March is likely because the IRS flagged your return for review before you even filed in April - this can happen when they're cross-referencing data or if there are discrepancies they want to verify. Don't panic about the future dates either, the IRS system sometimes uses projected processing cycles. Your multiple 766 credits from April 16th look substantial, so once that freeze lifts you should see a nice refund. The 960 code for appointed representative is concerning though - if you didn't authorize anyone, you might want to call the IRS to verify no one has fraudulently gained access to your account. That could actually be related to why you have the 810 freeze in the first place. I'd suggest checking your online IRS account to see if there are any letters or notices waiting for you that might explain the review. Sometimes they just need you to verify your identity or provide additional documentation.

Word of advice - make copies of EVERYTHING you send them. learned that the hard way last year when they 'lost' my documents 🙄

Based on your transcript, the examination timeline looks pretty standard for EIC verification. The key thing to watch for is that Code 971 notice - it should arrive within the next few days if it hasn't already. When it does come, read it carefully because it will tell you exactly what documents they need to verify your EIC claim. The good news is your credits (766 and 768) are still showing for April 15th, which means they haven't been removed yet. This suggests the review is just verification, not a denial. Most EIC examinations I've seen resolve within 6-10 weeks if you respond quickly with the right documentation. Keep checking your transcript weekly for updates and be ready to send whatever they request via certified mail. The waiting sucks but it's pretty routine unfortunately.

For anyone dealing with ESPPs, here's a simple way to think about it: If your discount ISN'T on your W2: 1. You need to report the discount as ordinary income 2. Adjust your cost basis upward by the discount amount 3. This prevents double taxation and correctly calculates capital gains/losses If your discount IS on your W2: 1. The company already reported it as compensation 2. Use the numbers on 1099-B as they appear 3. No adjustment needed For freetaxusa specifically, there's a section where you can enter supplemental income that wasn't reported on tax forms. Then when entering your 1099-B, make sure to check the box that allows you to adjust cost basis and enter the explanation.

I messed up reporting my ESPP sales last year and had to file an amended return. Make sure you check your ESPP plan document! Some plans are "qualified" and others are "non-qualified" which affects how/when you report the discount. For qualified plans with a holding period requirement, you might need to report different amounts depending on if you did a qualifying or disqualifying disposition. For non-qualified plans, the discount is taxable when you purchase the shares.

I went through this same nightmare last year! Here's what I learned the hard way: **Absolutely try Wells Fargo first** - as others mentioned, they're TPG's actual banking partner. I walked into one with just my ID and TPG check, and they cashed it with zero fees. No account needed. This should be your first stop. **If Wells Fargo doesn't work out:** • Walmart MoneyCenter is solid - usually $4 for checks under $1,000 • Some Kroger locations charge less if you have their Plus Card (around $5-7 flat) • Credit unions are often more flexible than big banks, even for non-members **Pro tip:** Call your bank's customer service and mention it's a federal tax refund check. Sometimes they'll reduce the hold period to 1-2 days instead of 10, especially if you explain your situation. I made the mistake of going to a payday loan place first and they wanted $85 on my $2,800 refund! Don't make my mistake. The Wells Fargo route literally saved me from paying any fees at all. Good luck getting your money quickly! 🤞

I've been through this exact situation multiple times and want to add a few more options that have worked for me: **Navy Federal Credit Union** - Even if you're not military, they'll often cash government-related checks (including tax refunds) for a small fee if you explain the situation politely. I've had success at several locations. **Local community banks** - These are often more flexible than the big chains. I once had a small regional bank cash my TPG check for just $3 because they said they "believe in helping people access their own money." **Costco** - If you have a membership, their Member Services desk will sometimes cash checks, especially tax refunds, though policies vary by location. One thing I learned: always bring additional documentation beyond just your ID. Having your tax return copy or the IRS letter about your refund can help convince places to work with you, especially at banks where you're not a customer. Also, if you're really stuck and it's urgent, some banks will give you a cash advance against the deposited check for a small fee (usually much less than check-cashing places) while the hold period runs out. Worth asking about if the Wells Fargo route doesn't pan out!