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Just be careful that your "business" isn't just a tax shelter. I tried something similar with a "photography business" a few years back and got audited. The IRS disallowed all my deductions because they determined I didn't have a profit motive. Their exact words were that I had "significant income from other sources" (my stock trading) and was using the business primarily to offset that income. Cost me thousands in back taxes plus penalties.
That's definitely concerning. Can I ask what happened specifically that made them determine it wasn't a real business? Did you have clients and actual business operations? I'm planning to have legitimate clients and services, proper accounting, a business license, etc.
I did have a few clients and made some revenue, but the IRS found several problems with my approach. First, I wasn't keeping good business records or tracking expenses properly. Second, I never created a formal business plan or showed evidence of trying to make the business profitable. Third, I continued with the same approach for 3 years despite consistent losses. The big red flag was that my expenses were all things I would have bought anyway for my hobby (camera equipment, travel to scenic locations, etc.), and most of my "clients" were friends and family. The IRS is looking for real efforts to operate profitably. Since your background is in IT consulting, with actual expertise and a clear market for services, you'll have a much stronger case than I did. Just make sure you run it like a serious business from day one.
This is a great question that many traders face. The key thing to understand is that yes, legitimate business losses can offset your short-term capital gains, but the IRS will scrutinize whether your business is real or just a tax avoidance scheme. Since you have an IT consulting background, you're in a much stronger position than someone starting a random business just for tax purposes. Here are some critical steps to ensure you're protected: 1. **Document everything from day one** - Business plan, client contracts, invoices, expense receipts, time logs 2. **Separate business finances** - Get a business bank account and credit card, never mix personal and business expenses 3. **Price your services at market rates** - Don't undercharge just to show losses 4. **Actively market your services** - Keep records of your marketing efforts and client outreach 5. **Get proper business licenses/registrations** where required Regarding your specific expenses, equipment purchases over a certain threshold may need to be depreciated rather than fully expensed in year one, unless you elect Section 179 or bonus depreciation. Software subscriptions and marketing costs are typically fully deductible. The $15k loss scenario you described could work, but make sure those expenses are truly necessary for the business and not things you'd buy anyway. The IRS looks for ordinary and necessary business expenses tied to profit-generating activities. Consider consulting with a tax professional who can review your specific situation and help structure everything properly from the start.
Quick tip: Whatever system you use, SAVE YOUR CONFIRMATION NUMBER and take screenshots!! I used Pay1040 last year and somehow my payment wasn't properly credited to my account even though the money left my bank. Took 3 months to sort out because I had to prove I actually paid.
Omg yes this happened to me too!! The IRS sent me a letter saying I never paid even tho the money was taken from my account. The confirmation email saved me.
Thanks for all the detailed info everyone! Just wanted to share my experience as another data point. I've been using EFTPS for about 3 years now since I started freelancing, and it's been rock solid. The initial setup was a bit of a pain (had to wait for the PIN in the mail), but once it's set up, it's incredibly convenient. The scheduling feature is a lifesaver - I set up my quarterly payments at the beginning of each year and don't have to think about them again. The confirmation emails and payment history are also really helpful for record keeping at tax time. For your immediate $3,200 payment with only 2 weeks left, I'd definitely go with Pay1040 or Direct Pay to avoid any timing issues. But seriously consider getting EFTPS set up now for next year's quarterly payments if you expect to owe again. The time investment upfront pays off big time in convenience and peace of mind. One more tip: If you do use Pay1040, make sure to use a debit card instead of credit to minimize fees. The flat debit fee is way better than the percentage-based credit card fee on a $3K+ payment.
This is really helpful advice! I'm in a similar boat as the OP - first year owing a substantial amount. Quick question about the debit card fees on Pay1040 - do you know if all banks treat these payments the same way, or do some banks charge additional fees on their end for tax payments? I want to make sure I'm not getting hit with fees from both sides.
You should check your state laws about mistaken payments. In most states, there are specific procedures for handling misdirected tax payments. The fact that you paid in cash makes it harder to trace, but you still have a receipt showing you made a payment. Try searching "[your state] tax payment correction" or "erroneous tax payment refund [your state]" to find the specific procedures. Most state tax departments have forms specifically for this purpose.
This is important! Also, make sure you're looking at the correct level of government. Property taxes are usually handled at the county or municipal level, so you want to look for county procedures rather than state procedures in most cases. Each county might have slightly different rules for handling misapplied payments.
I'm really sorry you're going through this - $21,000 is a huge amount to have tied up in someone else's tax bill! This kind of administrative error is more common than people think, especially when there are common names involved. One thing I'd strongly recommend is getting everything in writing from the tax office about what happened. Ask them to provide a written statement confirming that your payment was applied to another Jeff Anderson's account in error, including the date of payment, amount, and the property tax account it was applied to. This documentation will be crucial if you need to escalate. You should also request a written explanation of their policies for handling misapplied payments. Most government entities are required to have procedures for this exact situation - they can't just say "too bad" and keep your money. If they claim they don't have such procedures, that's actually a red flag that you need to escalate to higher authorities. Don't let them brush you off! A $21,000 error is significant enough that it should get supervisor attention. If the front desk staff won't help, keep asking to speak to managers until someone takes responsibility for finding a solution.
Don't forget about 1031 exchanges! If you're planning to buy another investment property, you might be able to defer ALL of your capital gains and depreciation recapture taxes. I've done this twice now with rental properties. The rules are strict though - you need an intermediary to hold the funds, identify potential replacement properties within 45 days, and complete the purchase within 180 days. But it can be a huge tax saver if you're just planning to roll the money into another investment property anyway.
This is really interesting, but I'm actually trying to exit the landlord game completely. The tenants I've had the last few years have been really difficult and I'm just tired of the maintenance headaches. Was hoping to just pay the tax bill and be done with it. Is there any partial 1031 option where I could defer some but not all of the gain?
Unfortunately, there's no partial 1031 exchange option in the way you're describing. It's generally an all-or-nothing approach. You either exchange the full property or you don't qualify for the tax deferral. You could potentially do a 1031 exchange into a different type of investment property that requires less hands-on management, like a commercial property with a triple-net lease or certain types of investment funds that qualify as "like-kind" exchanges. Some people move from direct ownership to a DST (Delaware Statutory Trust) that still qualifies as real estate for 1031 purposes but operates more like a passive investment.
Make sure you're tracking your "selling expenses" separately from your "closing costs" - they're treated a bit differently for tax purposes. Selling expenses (like real estate commissions, advertising, legal fees directly related to the sale) directly reduce your capital gain. Also, don't forget that if you owned and lived in the property as your primary residence for at least 2 of the 5 years before selling, you might qualify for a partial exclusion of capital gains ($250k for single, $500k for married filing jointly) even though it was a rental at the end! This depends on when you converted it from primary residence to rental.
Wait, I thought once you convert to a rental property you lose the primary residence exclusion completely? Are you saying you can still get part of that $250k/$500k exclusion if you lived there before renting it out?
Yes, you can still get a partial exclusion! The IRS allows you to prorate the exclusion based on how long you used it as a primary residence versus rental property. So if you lived in it for 4 years and rented it for 3 years, you could exclude 4/7ths of your gain up to the $250k/$500k limit. However, there's a catch - any depreciation you claimed after May 6, 1997 reduces your exclusion dollar-for-dollar. This is called the "non-qualifying use" rule and it can get pretty complex depending on when you converted the property. Definitely worth consulting a tax pro if this applies to your situation!
Omar Fawaz
I'm a CPA who deals with a lot of real estate clients. The most conservative approach is to capitalize and depreciate over 27.5 years. But I've had success with clients documenting the specific useful life of roof coatings (typically 10-15 years based on manufacturer specs) and depreciating over that period. Just make sure you have solid documentation from the manufacturer about the expected lifespan and keep that with your tax records. The key is consistency in how you treat similar expenditures and having documentation to back up your position if audited.
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Evelyn Rivera
As someone who's dealt with similar situations, I'd recommend getting a structural engineer's assessment of the roof coating project. This documentation can be crucial for tax purposes because it provides independent verification of whether the work is extending useful life (capitalization required) or simply maintaining the existing condition (potentially expensable). The engineer's report should specifically address: 1) The current condition of the roof, 2) What the coating will accomplish (protection vs. restoration), and 3) The expected useful life of the coating itself. This third point is key - if the engineer documents that the coating has a determinable useful life of 15 years based on the specific product and application, you'll have stronger support for depreciating over that period rather than the building's 27.5-year recovery period. I've seen clients successfully use this approach, but it requires good documentation upfront. The cost of the engineering assessment (usually $2-3k) is often worth it when you're dealing with a $135k expenditure.
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Anna Stewart
ā¢This is really helpful advice! The engineering assessment approach makes a lot of sense for this size of expenditure. Do you know if the engineer needs any specific certifications or credentials for the IRS to accept their assessment? And when you say "determinable useful life," does that mean the report needs to be very specific about the 15-year timeframe, or is it okay if they give a range like 12-18 years? I want to make sure we get the documentation right the first time.
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