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This is such a helpful thread! I'm in a similar situation with a property in the Philippines that I inherited from my parents about 8 years ago. I've been renting it out and reporting the income, but I'm considering selling it now. One thing I'm curious about - since this was inherited property, do I use the fair market value at the time of inheritance as my basis, or do I need to go back to what my parents originally paid for it decades ago? And if it's the fair market value at inheritance, which exchange rate do I use - the one from when they passed away or from when the property was officially transferred to me (which took about 6 months due to probate)? Also, has anyone dealt with the situation where the foreign country requires you to pay their capital gains tax before you can transfer the proceeds out of the country? I'm wondering how that affects the timing of when I need to report everything to the IRS.
Great question about inherited property! For inherited foreign property, you get what's called a "stepped-up basis" - meaning your basis is the fair market value of the property at the time of your parents' death, not what they originally paid for it. This is actually beneficial since it eliminates any gains that occurred during their ownership. For the exchange rate, you should use the rate from the date of death, not when the property was officially transferred to you. The IRS considers the inheritance to occur on the date of death for tax purposes, even if probate takes months to complete. Regarding foreign taxes paid before transferring proceeds - this is actually pretty common with countries like the Philippines. You'll report the sale on your US return in the tax year when the sale is completed (typically when you receive the proceeds), but you can claim a foreign tax credit for any capital gains taxes paid to the Philippines. Make sure to keep all documentation of the foreign taxes paid as you'll need Form 1116 to claim the credit. The timing difference between when you pay the foreign tax and when you file your US return shouldn't be an issue - just make sure everything is properly documented.
This is such a valuable discussion! I'm dealing with a similar situation with property in Germany that I bought in 2008. One thing I'd add that hasn't been mentioned yet - make sure you keep detailed records of any improvements or renovations you made to the property over the years. These can be added to your basis and reduce your capital gains. Also, if you've been depreciating the property on your US returns, remember that you'll need to use the depreciation amounts you actually claimed (or were allowed to claim, whichever is greater) when calculating the depreciation recapture, not necessarily what you should have claimed. For anyone dealing with properties in EU countries, be aware that some countries have withholding requirements where they'll hold back a percentage of the sale proceeds to cover potential tax liabilities. You can usually get this refunded later, but it affects your cash flow timing. Germany withheld about 25% of my sale proceeds and it took 8 months to get the refund after filing their tax return. The currency exchange impact is real - in my case, the Euro had strengthened against the dollar since 2008, so even though the property only appreciated modestly in Euro terms, my dollar-based capital gain was much larger than expected.
Thanks for sharing your experience with Germany! The point about EU withholding is really important - I didn't realize some countries hold back such a large percentage. 8 months for a refund sounds painful from a cash flow perspective. Your comment about currency exchange impact really hits home. I'm seeing the same thing with my Brazil property - the Real has weakened significantly since 2006, but the property value in Reais has gone up enough that I'm still looking at a substantial gain in USD terms. It's wild how exchange rate movements can completely change your tax situation. Quick question - when you added improvements to your basis, did you use the exchange rate from when you made each improvement, or did you convert everything using one rate? I've made several renovations over the years and I'm not sure if I need to track the exchange rate for each individual expense.
I tried to use VITA last year but got turned away because my income was slightly over their limit. Just a heads up that they usually have income restrictions (around $60k in my area). Also, there's another program called TCE (Tax Counseling for the Elderly) that specifically helps people 60+ with their taxes. My parents used it and had a great experience - the volunteers were other seniors who understood their specific tax situations better.
Thanks for this info! Do you know if TCE has the same income limits as VITA? My mom is 65 but still working part-time.
TCE doesn't have the same strict income limits as VITA. They focus more on age than income, so your mom would likely qualify regardless of her part-time earnings. Many TCE sites are run through AARP's Tax-Aide program, which says they focus on low-to-moderate income seniors but don't publish specific income cutoffs. The volunteers at TCE sites often have more experience with retirement-specific tax issues like Social Security taxation, required minimum distributions from retirement accounts, and other situations common for seniors. They'd likely be a perfect fit for your mom's situation!
I'm planning to use VITA this year for the first time and this thread has been super helpful! I've been doing my own taxes with online software but keep worrying I'm missing deductions or making mistakes. Question for those who've used VITA - do they review your previous year's return at all to make sure you didn't miss anything? I'm wondering if I should bring last year's return with me or if they only focus on the current tax year. Also, is there any follow-up support if the IRS has questions about the return they prepared? Really appreciate everyone sharing their experiences here. It's making me feel much more confident about trying the free service instead of paying for tax prep again!
Has anyone used TurboSelf Employed? Is it worth the extra $90 or should I just use the regular TurboTax?
I found FreeTaxUSA much better and waaaaay cheaper. They handle Schedule C just fine in their regular version and it only cost me $15 for state filing (federal was free). TurboTax wanted like $180 total for my return with self-employment income.
Thanks for the suggestion! I didn't know FreeTaxUSA could handle self-employment stuff. $15 is a lot better than the $180 TurboTax quoted me. Did it walk you through all the self-employment deductions and stuff? I'm definitely going to check that out instead. I was dreading paying the TurboTax premium just because I have some side hustle income.
I just went through this exact same situation last year! As a freelance photographer who made about $38k, I was so confused about the whole business expenses vs standard deduction thing. What really helped me was understanding that Schedule C (your business income and expenses) and your personal tax return (Form 1040 where you choose standard vs itemized) are completely separate calculations. Think of it this way: your business expenses reduce your business profit, and then that net profit flows to your personal return where you still get to choose the standard deduction. So definitely claim all $7,800 of your legitimate business expenses on Schedule C! That will reduce both your income tax AND your self-employment tax. Then on your 1040, you can still take the full $13,850 standard deduction instead of itemizing personal things like mortgage interest or charitable donations. One tip from my experience - make sure you're also tracking any home office expenses if you have a dedicated workspace. Even a small percentage of your rent/utilities can add up to significant deductions. Good luck with your first year as self-employed!
Great question! I've been running a tech review YouTube channel for about 2 years now and dealt with these exact same tax issues. Here's what I've learned from working with my accountant: You're absolutely right to keep detailed records - that's crucial. For products you buy specifically to review, you can generally deduct them as business expenses since content creation is the primary purpose. The key is demonstrating legitimate business intent. However, there's a nuance when you keep items for personal use afterward. The IRS looks at the "primary purpose" test - if you bought it mainly for business (creating content), you have a strong case for the deduction even if you get personal benefit later. But for expensive items you'll use heavily for personal purposes, you might need to allocate part of the cost to personal use. A few practical tips from my experience: - Keep photos/screenshots of products in your videos as proof they were used for business - Note any ongoing business use (comparison shots, background props, etc.) - Track if you eventually sell or donate items, as this supports the business purpose - Consider the item's useful life for your content vs personal use For those $200 earbuds, if you bought them specifically to create a review that generates revenue, and maybe use them occasionally in future videos for comparisons, you could likely justify a high percentage business deduction (80-90%) even with some personal use. The most important thing is having a reasonable, documented approach that you can explain if questioned.
This is exactly the kind of detailed guidance I was looking for! The "primary purpose" test makes so much sense - I've been overthinking the personal use aspect when the main reason I'm buying these products is clearly for content creation. I love your tip about taking photos/screenshots of products in videos as proof. That's something I can easily implement right away. And the point about tracking if you sell or donate items is really smart - I actually donated some older tech to a local school after reviewing it, which definitely supports the business purpose argument. One follow-up question: when you mention allocating "part of the cost to personal use" for expensive items, do you do this calculation upfront when you buy the item, or do you wait to see how much you actually use it personally over time? I'm trying to figure out the best timing for making these percentage decisions. Also, have you found that keeping products for "comparison shots" holds up well as ongoing business use? I'm starting to build up quite a collection and that would be a great way to justify keeping items for future content.
For timing the percentage calculations, I typically do an initial estimate when I purchase the item based on my intended use, then adjust at year-end if my actual usage was significantly different. For example, if I buy a microphone thinking I'll use it 90% for business but end up using it daily for personal calls too, I'll adjust it down to maybe 70% when doing my taxes. The comparison shots justification has worked well for me so far. I actually created a dedicated shelf in my studio space where I keep reviewed items specifically for this purpose - it serves as both storage and a visual backdrop for videos. When I use older products in new videos (even just as props or for size comparisons), I note it in my records. This creates an ongoing paper trail of business use beyond just the initial review. My accountant suggested documenting this with a simple "reference library" approach - treating reviewed products like reference materials that inform future content. Just like a journalist might keep old articles for research, we keep old tech for comparisons and context in new reviews. The key is being genuine about it - don't force comparisons just for tax purposes, but when you naturally reference older products in new content, make sure to document it!
I run a small tech review channel and can share some insights from my experience over the past year. The general rule is that if you purchased items primarily for creating content that generates income, they're typically deductible as business expenses. For your $200 earbuds example - if you bought them specifically to review and create content, the full cost is likely deductible even if you keep them afterward. The IRS uses a "primary purpose" test rather than requiring you to throw away everything you review. However, you do need to be reasonable and consistent. I track three things for each purchase: 1. Date and amount of purchase 2. Which video(s) featured the item 3. Any ongoing business use (comparison shots, studio props, etc.) Some practical tips that have worked for me: - Keep screenshots of products appearing in your videos as documentation - Note if you use items in multiple videos or for ongoing business purposes - Track any items you later sell or donate (supports business intent) - Be consistent with your allocation methods across similar items Since you're generating affiliate income, you're clearly running a legitimate business. Focus on documenting the business purpose rather than trying to calculate exact usage percentages down to the hour. The key is having a reasonable, well-documented approach you can defend if questioned. Most importantly - keep doing what you're doing with the detailed records. That documentation is your best protection.
This is really solid advice! I'm just getting started with my channel and the "primary purpose" test concept makes a lot of sense. I've been worried that keeping products after review would somehow invalidate the business deduction, but it sounds like the key is just documenting the legitimate business intent. Your tip about taking screenshots of products in videos is brilliant - that's such an easy way to create a visual record that the item was actually used for business purposes. I'm definitely going to start doing that going forward. One question: when you mention tracking items you sell or donate, do you need to report that as income if you sell them for less than what you originally paid? Or does that just help support the business purpose documentation? I'm thinking about eventually selling some older review items to make space for new products.
Alana Willis
idk why they gotta make everything so complicated with these codes. just tell us whats happening in plain english smh
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Tyler Murphy
ā¢fr fr the IRS living in 1980 with these codes
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Diego Castillo
Code 290 is basically the IRS confirming they've processed your return and assessed your tax liability. It's usually a good sign! The amount next to it should match what you reported on your 1040. If it shows $0.00, that means no additional tax was assessed and your return was accepted as filed. Keep an eye out for a 846 code next - that's the refund issued code everyone's waiting for! š¤
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Aisha Hussain
ā¢This is super helpful! I've been checking my transcript obsessively and seeing all these codes was making me nervous. So if I have a 290 with $0.00, I should just be patient and wait for the 846? How long does it usually take between those two codes?
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