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I tried to use VITA last year but got turned away because my income was slightly over their limit. Just a heads up that they usually have income restrictions (around $60k in my area). Also, there's another program called TCE (Tax Counseling for the Elderly) that specifically helps people 60+ with their taxes. My parents used it and had a great experience - the volunteers were other seniors who understood their specific tax situations better.

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Jabari-Jo

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Thanks for this info! Do you know if TCE has the same income limits as VITA? My mom is 65 but still working part-time.

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TCE doesn't have the same strict income limits as VITA. They focus more on age than income, so your mom would likely qualify regardless of her part-time earnings. Many TCE sites are run through AARP's Tax-Aide program, which says they focus on low-to-moderate income seniors but don't publish specific income cutoffs. The volunteers at TCE sites often have more experience with retirement-specific tax issues like Social Security taxation, required minimum distributions from retirement accounts, and other situations common for seniors. They'd likely be a perfect fit for your mom's situation!

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Kaylee Cook

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I'm planning to use VITA this year for the first time and this thread has been super helpful! I've been doing my own taxes with online software but keep worrying I'm missing deductions or making mistakes. Question for those who've used VITA - do they review your previous year's return at all to make sure you didn't miss anything? I'm wondering if I should bring last year's return with me or if they only focus on the current tax year. Also, is there any follow-up support if the IRS has questions about the return they prepared? Really appreciate everyone sharing their experiences here. It's making me feel much more confident about trying the free service instead of paying for tax prep again!

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Has anyone used TurboSelf Employed? Is it worth the extra $90 or should I just use the regular TurboTax?

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Jamal Carter

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I found FreeTaxUSA much better and waaaaay cheaper. They handle Schedule C just fine in their regular version and it only cost me $15 for state filing (federal was free). TurboTax wanted like $180 total for my return with self-employment income.

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Thanks for the suggestion! I didn't know FreeTaxUSA could handle self-employment stuff. $15 is a lot better than the $180 TurboTax quoted me. Did it walk you through all the self-employment deductions and stuff? I'm definitely going to check that out instead. I was dreading paying the TurboTax premium just because I have some side hustle income.

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I just went through this exact same situation last year! As a freelance photographer who made about $38k, I was so confused about the whole business expenses vs standard deduction thing. What really helped me was understanding that Schedule C (your business income and expenses) and your personal tax return (Form 1040 where you choose standard vs itemized) are completely separate calculations. Think of it this way: your business expenses reduce your business profit, and then that net profit flows to your personal return where you still get to choose the standard deduction. So definitely claim all $7,800 of your legitimate business expenses on Schedule C! That will reduce both your income tax AND your self-employment tax. Then on your 1040, you can still take the full $13,850 standard deduction instead of itemizing personal things like mortgage interest or charitable donations. One tip from my experience - make sure you're also tracking any home office expenses if you have a dedicated workspace. Even a small percentage of your rent/utilities can add up to significant deductions. Good luck with your first year as self-employed!

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Great question! I've been running a tech review YouTube channel for about 2 years now and dealt with these exact same tax issues. Here's what I've learned from working with my accountant: You're absolutely right to keep detailed records - that's crucial. For products you buy specifically to review, you can generally deduct them as business expenses since content creation is the primary purpose. The key is demonstrating legitimate business intent. However, there's a nuance when you keep items for personal use afterward. The IRS looks at the "primary purpose" test - if you bought it mainly for business (creating content), you have a strong case for the deduction even if you get personal benefit later. But for expensive items you'll use heavily for personal purposes, you might need to allocate part of the cost to personal use. A few practical tips from my experience: - Keep photos/screenshots of products in your videos as proof they were used for business - Note any ongoing business use (comparison shots, background props, etc.) - Track if you eventually sell or donate items, as this supports the business purpose - Consider the item's useful life for your content vs personal use For those $200 earbuds, if you bought them specifically to create a review that generates revenue, and maybe use them occasionally in future videos for comparisons, you could likely justify a high percentage business deduction (80-90%) even with some personal use. The most important thing is having a reasonable, documented approach that you can explain if questioned.

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This is exactly the kind of detailed guidance I was looking for! The "primary purpose" test makes so much sense - I've been overthinking the personal use aspect when the main reason I'm buying these products is clearly for content creation. I love your tip about taking photos/screenshots of products in videos as proof. That's something I can easily implement right away. And the point about tracking if you sell or donate items is really smart - I actually donated some older tech to a local school after reviewing it, which definitely supports the business purpose argument. One follow-up question: when you mention allocating "part of the cost to personal use" for expensive items, do you do this calculation upfront when you buy the item, or do you wait to see how much you actually use it personally over time? I'm trying to figure out the best timing for making these percentage decisions. Also, have you found that keeping products for "comparison shots" holds up well as ongoing business use? I'm starting to build up quite a collection and that would be a great way to justify keeping items for future content.

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Chloe Martin

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For timing the percentage calculations, I typically do an initial estimate when I purchase the item based on my intended use, then adjust at year-end if my actual usage was significantly different. For example, if I buy a microphone thinking I'll use it 90% for business but end up using it daily for personal calls too, I'll adjust it down to maybe 70% when doing my taxes. The comparison shots justification has worked well for me so far. I actually created a dedicated shelf in my studio space where I keep reviewed items specifically for this purpose - it serves as both storage and a visual backdrop for videos. When I use older products in new videos (even just as props or for size comparisons), I note it in my records. This creates an ongoing paper trail of business use beyond just the initial review. My accountant suggested documenting this with a simple "reference library" approach - treating reviewed products like reference materials that inform future content. Just like a journalist might keep old articles for research, we keep old tech for comparisons and context in new reviews. The key is being genuine about it - don't force comparisons just for tax purposes, but when you naturally reference older products in new content, make sure to document it!

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Sean Kelly

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I run a small tech review channel and can share some insights from my experience over the past year. The general rule is that if you purchased items primarily for creating content that generates income, they're typically deductible as business expenses. For your $200 earbuds example - if you bought them specifically to review and create content, the full cost is likely deductible even if you keep them afterward. The IRS uses a "primary purpose" test rather than requiring you to throw away everything you review. However, you do need to be reasonable and consistent. I track three things for each purchase: 1. Date and amount of purchase 2. Which video(s) featured the item 3. Any ongoing business use (comparison shots, studio props, etc.) Some practical tips that have worked for me: - Keep screenshots of products appearing in your videos as documentation - Note if you use items in multiple videos or for ongoing business purposes - Track any items you later sell or donate (supports business intent) - Be consistent with your allocation methods across similar items Since you're generating affiliate income, you're clearly running a legitimate business. Focus on documenting the business purpose rather than trying to calculate exact usage percentages down to the hour. The key is having a reasonable, well-documented approach you can defend if questioned. Most importantly - keep doing what you're doing with the detailed records. That documentation is your best protection.

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This is really solid advice! I'm just getting started with my channel and the "primary purpose" test concept makes a lot of sense. I've been worried that keeping products after review would somehow invalidate the business deduction, but it sounds like the key is just documenting the legitimate business intent. Your tip about taking screenshots of products in videos is brilliant - that's such an easy way to create a visual record that the item was actually used for business purposes. I'm definitely going to start doing that going forward. One question: when you mention tracking items you sell or donate, do you need to report that as income if you sell them for less than what you originally paid? Or does that just help support the business purpose documentation? I'm thinking about eventually selling some older review items to make space for new products.

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Amara Torres

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As someone new to the US tax system, I can understand how confusing this must be! Based on what everyone's shared here, it does sound like your refund amount disappearing from WMR is likely indicating an offset situation. Since you mentioned this is your first time filing in the US, you might not be aware of all potential debts that could trigger an offset - these can include federal student loans (even from before you became a US taxpayer), unpaid state taxes from any state you've lived in, child support, or other federal debts. I'd recommend calling the Treasury Offset Program at 800-304-3107 as Logan suggested - they can tell you immediately if there's an offset and which agency is claiming the debt. This will give you answers much faster than waiting for the mail notice. Don't worry too much though - as Jade mentioned, you'll likely still receive whatever portion of your refund remains after the offset is applied!

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Rachel Tao

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This is really helpful advice for someone new to the system! @ac1b2919e0aa Just to add - when you do call that Treasury Offset Program number, make sure you have your Social Security Number ready and maybe write down what they tell you. Sometimes the representatives can also tell you approximately how much is being offset, which helps you calculate what you might still receive. Also, since you're new to US taxes, it's worth knowing that this offset process is actually pretty common and doesn't mean you did anything wrong with your tax filing - it's just how the government collects on existing debts automatically.

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Hey Jeremiah! As a fellow community member, I wanted to chime in with some reassurance. What you're experiencing is actually pretty standard when the Treasury Offset Program kicks in. The fact that your name and filing status are still showing means your return was processed correctly - the missing refund amount is just the system's way of indicating they're applying an offset for existing debt. Since you mentioned you're new to filing in the US, you might not realize that even old debts from before you became a regular taxpayer can trigger these offsets. The good news is that if your original refund was larger than the debt, you'll still get the difference! I'd definitely call that Treasury Offset number (800-304-3107) that others mentioned - they can give you the full picture immediately rather than waiting weeks for a letter. Don't stress too much about it - this happens to tons of people and doesn't reflect poorly on your tax filing at all.

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This is such a welcoming response! @6b152e8e5667 As someone who's also navigating the US tax system, I really appreciate how you've broken this down for @ac1b2919e0aa. The point about old debts from before becoming a regular taxpayer is especially important - I had no idea that could happen! It's reassuring to know that this is a normal part of the process and not something to panic about. The Treasury Offset Program number seems like the way to go for getting immediate answers rather than waiting around wondering what's happening.

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Dont forget to consider the pro-rata rule if you have both pre-tax and after-tax money in your IRA's. Thats the whole point of the reverse rollover strategy - to get the pre-tax money out of your IRA's so you can do a clean backdoor Roth contribution without triggering pro-rata calculations.

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This is such an important point! I got burned by not understanding the pro-rata rule when I did my backdoor Roth last year. Ended up with an unexpected tax bill because I still had some pretax IRA money lingering around.

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Kylo Ren

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Great question about reverse rollovers! Just to add some clarity to the excellent advice already given - when you do a reverse rollover from IRA to 401(k), you're essentially moving money from one pre-tax retirement account to another, so there's no immediate tax consequence. However, reporting is still required. You'll receive Form 1099-R from your IRA custodian showing the distribution. The key is making sure Box 7 shows the correct distribution code (should be "G" for direct rollover to qualified plan). You'll report this on your Form 1040, and if you had any non-deductible contributions in your IRA, you'll also need Form 8606. The good news is that your strategy worked perfectly - by clearing out the pre-tax IRA money, you've eliminated the pro-rata rule complications for your backdoor Roth conversion. Just make sure all your tax forms reflect the transactions correctly, and you should be all set!

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Nia Davis

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Thanks for the clear breakdown! I'm actually in a similar situation but wondering about timing - does it matter when during the tax year you complete the reverse rollover? I'm planning to do mine early next year but want to make sure I understand the reporting requirements. Also, is there a minimum time I need to wait between the reverse rollover and the backdoor Roth contribution, or can they be done back-to-back?

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Sergio Neal

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Great question about timing! The reverse rollover can be done at any point during the tax year, and you'll report it on that year's tax return regardless of when it happened. There's actually no required waiting period between the reverse rollover and backdoor Roth contribution - you can do them back-to-back or even on the same day if your institutions can process it quickly. The key is just making sure your IRA balance is at $0 (or close to it) by December 31st of the year you want to do the backdoor Roth conversion to avoid pro-rata rule complications. Some people even do the reverse rollover, backdoor Roth contribution, and Roth conversion all within a few days to keep things clean and simple. Just make sure to keep good records of all the transactions and their dates for your tax filing!

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