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Anyone have experience with how QBI works if you have business losses? I started a business similar to the original poster but had a $12,000 loss my first year. Now in my second year I'm profitable (about $27,000). Does that previous loss affect my QBI calculation?
Yes, previous losses absolutely impact your QBI calculation. The tax code requires you to account for "carryover losses" from prior years. Essentially, you need to reduce your current year QBI by any prior qualified business losses. So in your case, your $27,000 profit would be reduced by the $12,000 loss from last year, giving you a QBI of $15,000 for deduction purposes. You'd then apply the 20% to that amount, so your QBI deduction would be $3,000 instead of $5,400 if you hadn't had the prior loss.
Great question about QBI! As someone who's been through this maze myself with my small consulting business, I can definitely relate to the confusion. Since your total income is $72,000, you're well below the 2025 threshold of $182,100 for single filers, which means you get the simplified treatment. Your handmade jewelry business absolutely qualifies - it's exactly the type of legitimate trade or business the QBI deduction was designed to help. Here's what you need to know: You'll use Form 8995 (the simple version, not 8995-A) along with your Schedule C. The calculation should be straightforward - 20% of your $45,000 business profit, so roughly $9,000 deduction. One tip that saved me headaches: double-check that all your business expenses are properly categorized on Schedule C first, because that directly affects your QBI calculation. Things like shipping supplies, Etsy fees, materials, and even a portion of your home workspace if you use it exclusively for business. Most tax software should handle this correctly, but if you're getting conflicting results between different programs, it might be worth having a tax professional review it once to make sure you're not missing anything. The peace of mind is often worth the cost, especially in your first year claiming QBI.
This is really helpful advice! I'm just starting my own small business (freelance graphic design) and was wondering about the home office deduction you mentioned. How do you determine what portion of your home workspace qualifies? Do you need to measure the exact square footage or is there a simpler way to calculate it? Also, when you say "exclusively for business" - does that mean I can't use my home office for anything personal at all, or just that it needs to be primarily/regularly used for business purposes?
If ur parents still claim u as a dependent make sure to check that box when filing!!! I messed this up last year and both me and my parents got letters from the IRS cuz we filed conflicting returns. Total nightmare to fix
Oh that's a good point! I should probably ask my parents if they're claiming me this year. Do you know how that affects what I would get back?
If ur parents claim u, u can still file and get back any withheld taxes, but u can't claim ur own personal exemption. The good news is u can still get education credits on ur own return even if ur a dependent! But def check with ur parents first! The IRS has rules about who can claim who, it's based on if they provide more than half ur support for the year and stuff like that.
Definitely file! I was in almost the exact same situation my sophomore year - made about $5,200 working at the campus library. Even though you're not required to file with income under the standard deduction, you'll almost certainly get money back from any federal taxes that were withheld from your paychecks. Check your W-2 in box 2 to see what federal taxes were taken out - that's money you can get back! Plus, as a student, you might qualify for education credits even with low income. The American Opportunity Credit can give you up to $1,000 as a refundable credit. I'd recommend using one of the free filing options like IRS Free File or FreeTaxUSA since your situation is straightforward. Make sure you have your W-2 and your 1098-T form from your school (should be in your student portal). The whole process took me maybe 30 minutes and I got back around $400 that I wasn't expecting! Also definitely coordinate with your parents about whether they're claiming you as a dependent - you can still file and get refunds even if they claim you, but you need to mark the dependent box correctly to avoid issues with the IRS.
This is really helpful advice! I'm also a college student working part-time and had no idea about the education credits. Quick question - do you know if the American Opportunity Credit applies if I'm taking online classes? I'm doing a hybrid program where some of my courses are fully online. Want to make sure I'm eligible before I get my hopes up about getting money back!
I've been through this exact situation with Credit Karma last year. My transcript showed a March 30th DDD but I actually got my deposit on March 28th around 11am. What I've learned from years of tax seasons is that no two experiences are identical - I've seen people with the same DDD get deposits up to 3 days apart. The IRS sends these in batches, and then each financial institution has their own policies about when they release the funds. Credit Karma is generally faster than traditional banks, but there's still variability even among CK customers.
This matches what I observed in 2022 and 2023. Both years I had friends with the same DDD as me, but our deposits arrived on different days. Last year my March 17th DDD hit on March 15th, while my coworker with the same DDD and same bank didn't get hers until the actual 17th. The batch processing explanation makes perfect sense.
Based on my experience with Credit Karma over the past few tax seasons, you should expect your refund to hit around March 26th or 27th. I've had a March DDD three times with CK and it's always been 1-2 days early. Last year my March 25th DDD actually deposited on March 23rd around 2pm. For your medical appointments, I'd suggest scheduling them for March 27th or later just to be safe. While CK is typically faster than traditional banks, there's always a small chance of processing delays. The good news is that March DDDs have been pretty consistent this year from what I've seen in the community. One tip: if you have the CK mobile app, turn on push notifications for deposits. That way you'll know the moment it hits your account rather than constantly checking your balance!
Thanks for the detailed breakdown! I'm new to using Credit Karma for tax refunds and this is really helpful. Quick question - does the time of day matter for when deposits typically hit? Like, should I expect it early morning, afternoon, or could it be any time? I'm trying to figure out the best time to schedule my medical appointments on the 27th if that's when it might arrive.
Great question about the 10% penalty vs. standard deduction! I went through this exact scenario two years ago during my career transition. You're correct that the $14,000 withdrawal would be covered by your $15,400 standard deduction, so $0 federal income tax. However, the 10% early withdrawal penalty ($1,400) is calculated separately on Form 5329 and added to your tax bill regardless of your income level or deductions. So yes, you'd still owe that $1,400 penalty even though your income is below the standard deduction threshold. The penalty isn't considered "income" - it's an additional tax that applies specifically to early retirement withdrawals. That said, after reading through all the excellent advice in this thread, I'd strongly recommend exploring the penalty exceptions before making your withdrawal. The medical expense exception mentioned earlier could be huge if you had any significant healthcare costs this year. Also, if you're planning any education during your sabbatical, those expenses might qualify for an exception too. Given the complexity and potential savings, a consultation with a tax professional familiar with early withdrawal strategies would probably pay for itself. There are clearly multiple angles to explore that could reduce or eliminate that $1,400 penalty entirely.
This is exactly the kind of comprehensive breakdown I was hoping for! It's reassuring to hear from someone who actually went through this scenario. The confirmation that I'd still owe the $1,400 penalty despite being under the standard deduction is what I suspected, but it's good to have it spelled out clearly. You're absolutely right about exploring those exceptions first. Reading through everyone's responses here has been eye-opening - I had no idea there were so many potential ways to reduce or avoid the penalty entirely. The medical expense angle is particularly interesting since I did have some unexpected dental work this year that was pretty costly. I think the consensus from this thread is clear: definitely worth consulting with a tax professional before making any moves. Even if the consultation costs a couple hundred dollars, it could potentially save me most of that $1,400 penalty if we can find the right exception or strategy. Thanks so much for sharing your experience and for confirming the tax mechanics. This community has been incredibly helpful in breaking down what seemed like an impossible question to get answered!
I've been following this discussion and wanted to add one more important consideration that could significantly impact your decision - the timing of when you actually take the distribution within your sabbatical year. If you're planning to take your sabbatical in 2025, you might want to consider splitting your withdrawal across tax years if possible. For example, taking $7,000 in December 2024 and $7,000 in January 2025. This way, each withdrawal stays well below the standard deduction in its respective tax year, and you'd only pay the 10% penalty on each portion (still $1,400 total, but gives you more flexibility). Also, something that hasn't been mentioned yet - if you're married and file jointly, your standard deduction is much higher ($30,800 for 2025). This could completely change your tax strategy if applicable to your situation. One last thought: consider whether you truly need all $14,000 at once. If you can get by with a smaller initial withdrawal and see how your sabbatical expenses actually play out, you might be able to reduce the total penalty by taking less. Sometimes we overestimate what we'll need when planning a career break. The combination of penalty exceptions discussed here plus strategic timing could potentially save you hundreds of dollars. Definitely worth mapping out with a professional before you pull the trigger!
Omar Farouk
I just went through this exact situation! My advice: have your kids file their own taxes BUT check the box that says "Someone can claim you as a dependent." They'll still get refunds of any withholding that exceeds their tax liability, and you can still claim them if they meet all the tests. My 19yr old made $7200 last year but still qualified as my dependent because: 1) lived with me all year 2) I paid over half support (rent, food, etc was way more than his earnings) 3) he's my kid He filed his own return, got back his withholding, and I still got the dependent tax benefit. Win-win!
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Chloe Martin
ā¢This doesn't sound right. If they make over the threshold amount, how can they qualify? My H&R Block guy told me the income limit is strict for dependents.
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GamerGirl99
ā¢Thank you all so much for the incredibly helpful advice! I think I understand now - my 18-year-old can likely be claimed as a qualifying child regardless of income as long as I provided more than half their support, but my 20-year-old might be trickier since they're over 19 and not a student. I'm definitely going to check out that taxr.ai tool to confirm everything and make sure I'm on the right track. And if I still have questions after that, the Claimyr service sounds like it could save me a lot of frustration trying to reach the IRS directly!
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Hannah White
Just to clarify what others have said - there's an important distinction between "qualifying child" and "qualifying relative" that determines income limits: **Qualifying Child** (no income limit): - Under 19, OR under 24 if full-time student - Lived with you more than half the year - You provided more than half their support - Didn't file joint return with spouse **Qualifying Relative** (income limit applies): - Can't earn more than $5,050 (2024 tax year) - You provided more than half their support - Not a qualifying child of you or anyone else So your 18-year-old could potentially qualify as a "qualifying child" regardless of income, but your 20-year-old (not in school) would need to pass the "qualifying relative" test, which includes the income limit. The key is the support test - you need to calculate if you truly provided more than 50% of their total support costs (housing, food, clothing, medical, transportation, etc.) versus what they paid for themselves with their earnings.
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Rosie Harper
ā¢This is exactly the breakdown I needed! So if I'm understanding correctly, even though both my kids made over $5,050, my 18-year-old might still qualify under the "qualifying child" rules since there's no income limit for that category. But for my 20-year-old, since they're over 19 and not in school, they'd have to meet the stricter "qualifying relative" test which includes that income limit. The support test seems like the trickiest part to figure out. When you say "total support costs" - does that include things like car insurance if they're on my policy, or their cell phone bill if they're on my family plan? I'm trying to get a realistic picture of whether I actually provided more than half their support when you factor in all these shared expenses.
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