As someone who's dealt with both traditional banks and online banking for tax refunds, I'd say your preparation approach is spot-on. The fact that you're planning 45 days ahead and triple-checking your account details shows good financial discipline. From what I've observed in this community, Chime generally performs well for tax refunds with the added benefit of faster processing times compared to traditional banks. Since you're military and have that June PCS date looming, I'd suggest filing as early as possible once you receive your W-2s to avoid any potential complications during your move. Also, consider setting up email and text notifications in your Chime app so you'll be immediately alerted when the deposit hits - this can be especially helpful if you're dealing with the chaos of military relocation. The transition from USAA to Chime for government payments should be seamless, but having that buffer time before your move will give you peace of mind.

I've been using Chime for tax refunds since 2021 and it's been solid every year. The key thing that helped me was actually calling Chime's customer service (855-754-4637) before my first tax season to confirm they accept government deposits - they do, and they were pretty helpful about walking me through their process. Since you're coming from USAA, you'll probably appreciate that Chime doesn't put the typical 1-3 day hold on government deposits that some banks do. I usually get my refund on a Thursday or Friday when the IRS says Monday. One military-specific tip since you're PCSing in June - make sure you update your address with the IRS using Form 8822 if you move before your refund processes, even if you're using direct deposit. I learned this the hard way when they sent me a notice to my old address and it took weeks to sort out. Your triple-checking approach is smart - I do the same thing and screenshot my direct deposit info from the app as backup documentation.

Has anyone actually gotten audited for donation deductions? I've been paranoid about claiming some furniture I donated last year (worth about $3,000) because I only have a vague receipt from the charity. I've heard the IRS is especially picky about non-cash donations.

Great question! Since you're dealing with $6,500 in donations, you'll definitely want to compare itemizing vs. standard deduction. The key is adding up ALL your potential itemized deductions - not just charitable contributions. This includes mortgage interest, state/local taxes (capped at $10k), medical expenses over 7.5% of your income, and your $6,500 in donations. For your donations, make sure you have proper documentation: bank records or receipts for cash donations, and written acknowledgments from charities for any single donation over $250. For your Goodwill donations, those absolutely count as charitable deductions! You'll need to determine fair market value (what someone would reasonably pay for the items in their used condition). Keep photos and detailed lists of donated items. One important note: if your total non-cash donations exceed $500, you'll need to file Form 8283 along with Schedule A. Also, be aware that charitable deductions are generally limited to 60% of your adjusted gross income for cash donations and 50% for non-cash donations, though this likely won't affect you at $6,500. The IRS provides valuation guides for common donated items on their website, which can help you properly value your clothing and household goods. Good record-keeping is essential - the IRS does scrutinize charitable deductions more closely than some other deductions.

I'm a little surprised nobody asked if there's anything in your divorce decree or custody agreement about tax dependents. Many agreements specifically state who gets to claim the child and when. If yours says you get to claim your daughter in alternating years, that actually overrides the residency test!

You can handle this between yourselves without going back to court! Form 8332 is specifically designed for this situation and doesn't need to be part of your official divorce decree. Your ex just needs to sign it each year she agrees to let you claim your daughter. The form is pretty straightforward - it's called "Release/Revocation of Release of Claim to Exemption for Child by Custodial Parent" and she can specify whether it's for one year, multiple years, or alternating years. Once she signs it, you attach it to your tax return when you file. Since you've been doing this informally for years, you might want to suggest making it official with a written agreement between you two about alternating years going forward. That way there's no confusion or last-minute changes. You could even have it notarized if you want extra documentation, but that's not required by the IRS.

I'm an admin for a plumbing company and we handle this exact situation with our on-call techs. We use what's called the "commuting rule" where we only add $1.75 per one-way commute to their taxable income instead of the full lease value of the van. We also have a written policy that prohibits using the van for personal purposes (other than minimal personal stops on the way home). As long as your employer has that policy in writing and enforces it, they shouldn't be taxing you on the full value of the vehicle - just the minimal commuting value. Maybe share this with your HR or payroll department?

Based on what you've described, your employer may be incorrectly calculating your taxable benefit. Since you're required to take the van home specifically for on-call emergency response (not as a perk), and your van has permanent business modifications like built-in shelving and company logos, you likely qualify for either the "qualified nonpersonal use vehicle" exemption or at minimum the reduced "commuting rule" taxation. Under the commuting rule, you should only be taxed $1.75 each way ($3.50/day) rather than the full fair market value of the vehicle. For the qualified nonpersonal use vehicle exemption, vehicles with permanent business equipment that make personal use unlikely can be completely exempt from fringe benefit taxation. I'd recommend documenting that: 1) taking the van home is mandatory company policy for on-call techs, 2) the van has permanent business modifications, and 3) personal use is prohibited by company policy. Present this to your payroll department with references to IRS Publication 15-B sections on these specific exemptions. Your situation sounds like a textbook case for reduced or eliminated vehicle benefit taxation.

I think everyone's overthinking this. I've been getting Zelle payments well over the $600 threshold for years (roommates, family help, trip planning where friends send me their portion, etc) and I've never reported it. Nothing has ever happened. The IRS is looking for business income, not you and your roommates splitting the electric bill. They don't have the resources to audit millions of people over personal payment app usage. Just use common sense - if you're making actual income through Zelle (selling stuff regularly, getting paid for services), report it. If it's just money passing through your account where you don't make a profit, don't worry about it.

Just to add my perspective as someone who went through this confusion last year - the distinction everyone is making between personal and business transactions is absolutely key. I was in a very similar situation to you, Emma. I help friends with tech stuff and they reimburse me for parts through Zelle. I also coordinate group trips where people send me money for hotels and activities. My total Zelle receipts were probably around $8,000 last year. What helped me was keeping detailed records with descriptions of each transaction. When tax time came, it was clear that 99% of it was either reimbursements (where I spent my own money first) or personal transfers. The only thing I actually reported was about $400 where I sold some old computer parts I wasn't using anymore - that was actual income since it was profit. For your computer building hobby, as long as you're truly just getting reimbursed for parts at cost and not charging for labor, you're fine. The IRS understands the difference between income and reimbursement. Just keep your receipts for the parts you buy in case you ever need to show the transactions were cost reimbursements. The peace of mind is worth the simple record keeping!